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FORD BRONCO
-> IGNITION; plugs/wires, distributors, MSD, firing orders; switch & ignition actuator rod, TSBs...
-> Coil
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WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 29,162 LINKs!
This is a Ford Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner.
Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars
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Ignition or Static in AM Band TSB 90-3-12 for 89-90 Bronco, F Series, & Econoline; may be caused by a defective radio suppression capacitor or an open circuit at the connector shell.
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Capacitor to Coil Diagram; in 4.9, 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD) Testing; using Ford's EEC Breakout Box, but many tests can be performed w/a MM, Air Gap Spark Tester or Neon Bulb Spark Tester or equivalent, etc.
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Connector Location Diagram in a 90
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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DTC P0300 Random; Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected; Symptoms, Causes & Possible Solutions
Source: by obd-codes.com
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DTC P1359 Spark output circuit condition; ECM detected no SPOUT signal from distributor. Probable Cause: SPOUT connector missing; Open circuit condition; Ignition control module fault. 1. Check the Spark Output (SPOUT) connector near the Ignition Control Module (ICM) at the rear of driver side fender apron (near hood hinge) to see if the SPOUT connector is missing or is making poor contact to the connector. 2. If the SPOUT connector & connection appear to be in good condition, install a timing light onto #1 spark plug wire and check for timing advance at idle with the engine running.
Ignition timing should indicate 10 degrees BTDC with the SPOUT connector removed but timing should then advance when the connector is plugged back in. 3. If there is no timing advance using a timing light, check the Pink (PK) wire at the ICM connection for a square-wave signal as the engine is running using a labscope. 4. If there is no signal present on the PK wire, check the PK wire between the ICM and PCM pin 50 for an open circuit. 5. If the circuit checks to be OK and ignition timing appears to be advancing over base timing with the SPOUT connector installed, clear the code, disconnect the voltage regulator at the alternator and drive the vehicle for several miles to check for the light to illuminate and the code to reset. 6. Check coil output of all individual spark plug wire ends to verify that spark will jump a 1/2-3/4" gap consistently and that it has a bluish tint of color to it. 7. If spark output is weak or erratic, replace the coil and re-check for the setting of the service code. 8. Also inspect all plug wires ends for potential pin-hole leaks that could allow spark to arc to the cylinder heads in the plug well. Run a grounded screw driver up and down the plug wire boot as the wire is connected to a spark tester to determine if any of the wires are faulty. 9. If timing advance appears to be working properly and there are no electrical issues related to the alternator, coil or plug wires, either the PCM or the ICM will need to be substituted to determine if one of them is causing the condition. See diagram by Ford via Steve83 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/833750_1
1996 is CCD H. read more
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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DTCs & Possible Causes; P1130 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Fuel Trim at Limit, P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input, P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit High Input, P0106 - Barometric (BARO) Pressure Sensor Circuit Performnce, P0107 - BARO Sensor Low Voltage Detected, P0108 - BARO Sensor High Voltage Detected, P0109 - BARO Sensor Circuit Intermittent, P0112 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Circuit Low Input, P0113 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Circuit High Input, P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input, P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit High Input, P0121 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Performance Problem, P0122 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Low Input, P0123 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit High Input, P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control, P0127 - Intake Air Temperature Too High, P0131 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Out of Range Low Voltage (HO2S-11), P0133 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Slow Response (HO2S-11), P0135 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-11), P0136 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-12), P0141 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-125), P0151 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Out of Range Low Voltage (HO2S-21) See DTC P0131, P0153 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Slow Response (HO2S-21) See DTC P0133, P0155 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-21) See DTC P0135, P0156 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-22) See DTC P0136, P0161 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-22) See DTC P0135, P0171 - System to Lean (Bank 1) The Adaptive Fuel Strategy continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The test fails when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit., P0172 - System to Rich (Bank 1), P0174 - System to Lean (Bank 2), P0175 - System to Rich (Bank 2), P0176 - Flexible Fuel (FF) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0180 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input (EFT), P0181 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance (EFT), P0182 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input (EFT), P0183 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input (EFT). P0186 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance (EFT) See DTC P0181. P0187 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Low Input (EFT). See DTC P0182. P0188 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit High Input (EFT) See DTC P0183, P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (FRP), P0191 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Performance (FRP), P0192 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input (FRP), P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input (FRP), P0201 through P0212 - Cylinder #1 through Cylinder #12 Injector Circuits, P0217 - Engine Coolant Over-Temperature Condition, P0230 - Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction, P0231 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low, P0232 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High, P0234 - Supercharger Overboost Condition, P0243 - Supercharger (Boost) Bypass Solenoid Circuit Malfunction, P0298 - Engine Oil Over Temperature Condition, P0300 - Random Misfire, P0301 through P0310 - Misfire Detection Monitor, P0320 - Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction, P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1), P0326 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/ Performance (Bank 1), P0330 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2), P0331 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/performance (Bank 2), P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0350 - Ignition Coil (Undetermined) Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction, P0351 Through P0360 - Ignition Coil A through J Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction, P0401 - EGR Flow Insufficient Detected, P0402 - EGR Flow Excessive Detected, P0411 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system upstream flow See DTC P1411, P0412 - Secondary Air Injection System (AIR) circuit malfunction, P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1), P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2), P0442 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak), P0443 - EVAP Control System Canister Purge Valve Circuit Malfunction, P0451 - FTP Sensor Circuit Noisy, P0452 - FTP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Detected, P0453 - FTP Sensor Circuit High Voltage Detected, P0455 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (No Purge Flow or Large Leak), P0456 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Very Small Leak), P0457 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Filler Cap Loose/Off), P0460 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Malfunction, P0501 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Range/ Performance, P0503 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Intermittent, P0503 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Intermittent, P0505 - Idle Air Control System Malfunction, P0552 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0553 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0602 - Control Module Programming Error, P0603 - Powertrain Control Module KAM Test Error, P0605 - PCM Read Only Memory (ROM) error, P0703 - Brake Switch Circuit Input Malfunction, P0704 - Clutch Pedal Position Switch Malfunction, P0720 - Insufficient input from Output Shaft Speed sensor, P0721 - Noise interference on Output Shaft Speed sensor signal, P0722 - No signal from Output Shaft Speed sensor, P0723 - Output Shaft Speed sensor circuit intermittent failure, P0812 - Reverse Switch (RS) input circuit malfunction, P1000 - Monitor Testing Not Complete, P1001 - KOER Not Able To Complete, KOER Aborted, P1100 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Intermittent, P1101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1109 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Sensor Intermittent, P1112 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Intermittent, P1114 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit Low Input, P1115 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit High Input, P1116 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1117 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Intermittent, P1120 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Out of Range Low (RATCH too Low), P1121 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Inconsistent with MAF Sensor, P1124 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1125 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Intermittent, P1127 - Exhaust Not Warm Enough, Downstream Sensor Not Tested, P1128 - Upstream Oxygen Sensors Swapped from Bank to Bank (HO2S-11-21), P1129 - Downstream Oxygen Sensors Swapped from Bank to Bank (HO2S-12-22), P1130 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Fuel Trim at Limit, P1131 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean. READ MORE
Source: by Steve at justanswer.com
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EEC-IV System Has NO Control Over the Following Items; "...Fuel quantity and quality; Damaged or faulty ignition components; Internal Engine Condition - rings, valves, Timing belt, etc.; Starter & Battery circuit; Dual Hall sensor; TFI or DIS module; Distributor condition or function; Camshaft sensor; Crankshaft sensor; Ignition or DIS coil; Engine governor module..."
Source: by Ford via arrc.epnet.com
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Initial Testing & Depiction, TFI
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Installation, Accel pics in a 90
Source: by Supersanbob (Super Bronco) at SuperMotors.net
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Installation, Jacobs Electronics Ford Energy Coil in 78-79
Source: by Paul E at ProjectBronco.com
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Installation, MSD in a 94
Source: by sewiv (Sandy) at FSB
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Internal Coil Resistance Testing
Source: by assets.fluke.com
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Location Diagram & Depiction in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Location in Engine Bay Diagram in an 87-88 4.9L; #1
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Location pic in a 96
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Location pic in an 85 460
Source: by ford_munky_man at FSB
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Location pic in an 85 460
Source: by ford_munky_man at SuperMotors.net
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Location pic in an 85 460
Source: by ford_munky_man at rmftc.com
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MSD Blaster Coil Location pic in a 90 5.8
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
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No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
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No Start Troubleshooting, EFI; for a Mustang but many tips are applicable
Source: by jrichker via Seijirou at FSB
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Primary Resistance Testing Depiction
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Re-Wiring 460 EFI Swap in a 79; "...OK, as usual, you will need, of course, the engine and accessories (if you want to run a serpentine belt), the computer and wiring harness (preferably out of a late 80'sor early 90's with either a C6 or a Manual Trans, can be either E or F series), as well you will need a fuel system that will be adequate to handle 40+ psi of fuel pressure, and a fuel pump that will deliver that 40+ psi of pressure (recommend a factory pump setup, or an aftermarket hi-pressure in-line fuel pump) (side note: I am taking that you have already taken out the old engine and have done the nessasary steps to install the 460 if the vehicle has not already had a Big Block in it already - 351m and 400 not included as big block). To start, you will need to do some re-wiring in the engine compartment, and also with the engine wiring harness. V+ Constant - Black/Orange - Yellow (EEC Power Relay/Fuel Pump relay). Switched - Red/Lt.Green - White - Grey/Yellow - Brown/White (HEGO,
Coil, EEC Power); Fuel Pump V+ - Pink/Black (or it can be Orange/Lt.Blue); V- - Black/Lt.Green - Black; Starter V+ - Red/Blue (it also connects to the distributor); Coolant Temp Sensor - Red/White, and Oil Pressure Sensor - White/Red; A/C Compressor - Black/Yellow (if you have no A/C, you can hook it up to a switch 12V, and use it as a bit of a high idle, I think that itwill take it up to 1100 - 1200 rpm; Speed Sensor - Dk.Green/White and Grey/Black (I don't use this, I only put this in here so you know about them), I have had no problems with the truck, not running the sensor, it has not kicked up some engine codes and or suffered any problems; Reverse Lights - Black/Pink and or Purple/Orange; Neutral Saftey Switch - Red/Blue; Check Engine Light - Brown, or Brown/Red;Well, that should be all the wiring color codes and attachments....now comes the actual swap..." READ MORE
Source: by Tom (origin, Mr.TroubleMaker) at nelson.macd.ca site via web.archive.org
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Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code
Source: by RepairPal
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Secondary Resistance Testing Depiction, TFI
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Sixlitre Tune-Up Info (scroll through pages to view more tips, especially on Page 5); "...Yes, stock timing is 10 degrees, I find optimum timing to be almost exactly 13.5 but you can play around until you notice ping and then back off 2 degrees if you want to, and/or tune by vacuum if you care to. Cheapest Autolites money can buy, nuthin' platinum, nuthin' fancy, just set out to .055 gap..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB
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Supply Voltage Testing Depiction, TFI
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Symbols in Wiring Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Test; "...test the primary circuit for resistance it should be .3-1 ohms & test the secondary circuit from the coil negative to the plug wire output, resistance should be 8,000 to 11,500 ohms; to test the coil primary circuit you should have already tested for 12v+ from coil to ground with key in run position now you need to test from TFI pin 2 to coil negative with harnesses disconnected resistance should be less than 5 ohms; test from coil negative with only the coil harness disconnected to ground should be more than 10,000 ohms..."
Source: by theramsey3 (Chris) at FSB
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Test; No Spark, No Start; "...In this article I’ll show you a very simple, easy and highly accurate way to see if the Ignition Coil on your 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L Ford F150 (or E150, Bronco, Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, etc) is fried and causing your vehicle to NOT START or not the cause of the problem. The test you’ll be doing is an On Car Test done with the Ignition Coil in action. You won’t need any expensive testing equipment to follow the simple step-by-step testing instructions presented here. You’ll need a Spark Tester, a Multimeter, a 12 Volt Test Light, and a helper (to assist you in cranking the Engine). If you’re looking for the resistance test of the Primary and Secondary Circuits, this article will not help you (in my opinion, the Primary/Secondary resistance test is a complete waste of time and life that does not work around 99% of the time to diagnose a BAD Ignition Coil). If you haven’t done so already, the very first thing you need to do is to see if the Ignition Coil is Sparking. The test instructions below call for using an HEI Spark Tester and you may be wondering if you can use any other... and the answer is yes you can. The biggest reason I recommend the HEI Spark Tester is that it is very, very accurate Spark Tester. In the section Why the HEI Spark Tester, I go more in depth about this. OK, even if you already know that you have a No Spark Condition, follow the test steps since the purpose of this very first Ignition Coil Test, is to see if the Ignition Coil High Tension Wire (the one that feeds the Coil’s Spark to the Distributor Cap) is good or BAD. OK, this what you need to do; Disconnect the Ignition Coil’s High Tension Wire from the Distributor Cap but leave the end that connects to the Ignition Coil connected. Now, on the end that connects to the center of the Distributor Cap, attach the HEI Spark Tester (see photo in image viewer). Using a Battery Jump Start Cable, ground the HEI Spark Tester to the Battery Negative (-) Terminal. When everything is set, have a helper crank up the engine while you observe the Spark Tester from a safe distance The HEI Spark Tester will give you one of two results: Spark or No Spark. OK, let’s take a look at what your test results mean: CASE 1 You got Spark: this Spark Test result means that the Ignition Coil and its High Tension Wire are good and not the cause of your Ford pick up’s (or van or SUV) No Start Condition. CASE 2 You go No Spark: this test result doesn’t condemn the Ignition Coil or the High Tension Wire just yet. The Wire could be BAD or the Ignition Coil could not be receiving its Switching Signal from the Ignition Control Module or the Coil could really be fried. Now, don’t worry... this article will help you find out, go to IGNITION COIL TEST 2. In this test step, you’re gonna’ test for Spark directly on the Ignition Coil. The result of this test will let you know if the High Tension Cable is BAD and not letting Spark thru’ to the Distributor Cap (this happens quite a bit) or will let you know that you need to continue to the next test. Alright, this is what you’ll need to do: OK, disconnect the High Tension Wire from the Ignition Coil. Now, connect the HEI Spark Tester to the Ignition Coil’s tower using a small piece of Vacuum Hose. This is important, see how I’ve done it in the photo in the image viewer. Now ground the Spark Tester using a Battery Jump Start Cable directly on the Battery Negative (-) Terminal. Once again, you’ll see one of two results: Spark or No Spark. OK, let’s take a look at what your test results mean: CASE 1 You got Spark: this Spark Test result tells you that the High Tension Wire is FRIED and is the cause of your No Start Condition. Replace all of the Spark Plug Wires as a set. CASE 2 You got No Spark: this Spark Test result eliminates the High Tension Wire and means you’re getting closer to the actual cause of the Ignition Coil’s No Spark Condition. The next step is to verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. For this test, go to IGNITION COIL TEST 3. So far, you have verified that you do have a bona-fide No Spark situation coming directly from the Ignition Coil, the next couple of tests are to test the Ignition Coil itself. OK, before we start (and to help you make sense of this test and the next one) you’re aware that the Ignition Coil needs Power in the form of 12 Volts and that it needs a Switching Signal to create Spark. Well, in this test step, you’ll check for these 12 Volts either using a Multimeter or a 12 V DC Test Light. Alright, this is what you’ll need to do: IGNITION COIL TEST 3; With your Multimeter still in Volts DC mode from the previous test and the Key On (but engine Off). Probe the wire labeled with the number 2 in the image viewer, with the RED Multimeter Lead. Now ground the Multimeter’s BLACK Test Lead on the Battery’s Negative (-) Post. Your Multimeter should show you either: 1.) 12 Volts DC or 2.) 0 Volts. OK, let’s take a look at what your results mean: CASE 1 The Multimeter registered 12 Volts: This is the correct result and tells you that the next step is to check that the Ignition Coil is getting a Switching Signal from the Ignition Control Module (ICM). Go to IGNITION COIL TEST 4. CASE 2 The Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts: double check your Multimeter connections and repeat the test... if your Multimeter results still do not indicate 12 Volts, then the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is not fried and not the cause of the No Spark No Start problem, since without power, it won’t work. Although it’s beyond the scope of this article to find the cause of these missing 12 Volts, resolving this issue will solve the No Spark No Start issue. GNITION COIL TEST 4; In the previous test you confirmed that the Ignition Coil is being supplied with Power (12 Volts DC), now, you need to see if the Ignition Coil is getting an activation signal, called the Switching Signal, from the Ignition Control Module (ICM) This test is accomplished using a 12 Volt Test Light and is done while cranking the engine on your 4.9L, 5.0L, or 5.8L Ford pick up (or car or SUV). Alright, this is what you’ll need to do: Reconnect the High Tension Wire to the Ignition Coil and the Distributor Cap, if you haven’t done so. Probe the wire labeled with the number 1 in the image viewer. The Ignition Coil can be connected to its electrical connector or not. When ready, have your helper crank the Engine while you observe and hold the Test Light in place. Your 12 Volt Test Light will either: 1.) Flash On and Off the whole time the Engine is cranking. 2.) No flashing On or Off. OK, let’s take a look at what your results mean: CASE 1 The Test Light flashed On and Off: This is means that the Ignition Control Module is activating the Ignition Coil and since the Ignition Coil is not Sparking... the Ignition Coil is BAD. Replace the Ignition Coil. Here’s why: If the Ignition Coil is getting power (12 Volts) and is getting the Switching Signal, it HAS TO SPARK, since it isn’t, this tells you that it’s fried. CASE 1 The Test Light DID NOT flash On and Off: this test result exonerates the Ignition Coil, since without this Switching Signal, it won’t Spark. The most likely cause of this missing Switching Signal is either a BAD Ignition Control Module (ICM) or a BAD Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor (which is Ford’s fancy name for the Crank Sensor). I have written an article that will help you to test both of these at: .) If your Ford vehicle has the Ignition Control Module mounted on the Distributor, go to: Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Module & PIP Sensor Test (this article is found at easyautodiagnostics.com). If your Ford vehicle has the Ignition Control Module mounted on the Fender, go to: Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Module & PIP Sensor Test (this article is found at easyautodiagnostics.com). ow Does the Ignition Coil Work When you turn the key and start cranking the Engine, this is what happens (in a nutshell, that is): The Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the Ignition Coil get Power (12 Volts). The Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor, which is the Crank Sensor in Fords, gets power from the ICM and as the engine Cranks it starts to generate a Crank Signal (called the PIP Signal) that is received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). When the ICM gets the PIP Signal, it starts to Switch the Ignition Coil ON and OFF by interrupting the Ignition Coil’s Primary Voltage Once the Ignition Coil gets this Switching Signal, it starts to Spark away... which cause your Ford to start.. Why the HEI Spark Tester? If you have read any of my Ignition System Test Articles, you’ll notice that I’m always writing the article around the HEI Spark Tester. Why? Well for several reasons and they are: The HEI Spark Tester is accurate and this will save you money making your diagnostic reach the right conclusion and this will keep you from replacing good parts. How? Well, no other Spark Tester stress tests the Ignition Coil or the Spark Plug Wire (High Tension Wire) like the HEI Spark Tester. The stress test that the HEI Spark Tester puts the Ignition Coil under, produces a Spark or a No Spark Test result you can take to the bank. The HEI Spark Tester does not cost an arm and a leg. It usually retails for around 10 to 14 US dollars (don’t have an HEI Spark Tester? Need to buy one? You can buy it here: KD Tools 2756 Ignition Tester Calibrated For HEI Ignitions). You don’t have to interpret the color of the Spark on the HEI Spark Tester. On some Spark Testers, it’s suggested that you have to interpret the color of the Spark (which is total BS in the first place... since the color of the Spark has nothing to do with anything). If the HEI Spark Tester sparks, the Spark is present and strong enough. If it doesn’t Spark, then you have a bona-fide No Spark result you can trust In the long years I’ve spent working as a Diagnostic Automotive Technician, I have used a lot of different tools to test for Spark and from personal experience I know it works and I can therefore recommend it to you..." SEE SITE for DIAGRAMS
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
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Testing, Overview & Diagram in a 95 from Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual
Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Thick Film Ignition (TFI), Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
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Testing, TFI
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
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Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in 78 Bronco & 76-78 F Series
Source: by Blue79 at photobucket.com
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Wiring Diagram in 87-89 4.9 Bronco & F series (Mitchell) page 2
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell)
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "NOTE: Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay with the key on will cause the TFI-IV ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will not correct the timing. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle for adjusting base timing."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in a 78
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM
Source: by Mikey350 at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in a 95
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150
Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB
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Wiring Diagram in an 84
Source: by toddcomputer.com
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Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in an 86 & Ford truck
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
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Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as Coil, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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