BroncoLinks.Com Header Image
FORD BRONCO -> ELECTRICAL; EEC/PCM, Self-Test, wiring diagrams... -> Alarm
WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 26,000 LINKs!
This is a Ford Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner.
Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars. UPDATE; all Links via web.archive may be down; Copy orig. URL & go to to search for the new archived copy
Select A Link:
Anti-Theft Overview in 92-96 in E-150-250-350 Vehicles; "...The anti-theft protection system provides two types of vehicle protection. The first is designed to provide the vehicle with protection from unauthorized entry into the passenger compartment and engine compartment (hood opening). The second monitors the status of the ignition switch lock cylinder. If triggered, the system provides both audio and visual alarm signals and disables the starter circuit. The system is controlled by an electronic module. When armed, unauthorized entry into the vehicle is detected by courtesy lamp switches (located in the passenger compartment door jambs), and a hood switch (located on the right cowl surface). In addition, the system triggers an alarm if the ignition switch lock cylinder is forcibly removed from the steering column tube (3514). The system immediately monitors the ignition switch lock cylinder upon removal of the key from the ignition. Once triggered, the system flashes the low beam headlamps, the parking lamps, the alarm indicator, and sounds the horn. In addition, the starter circuit is interrupted until the system is disarmed..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
Color Codes, Bronco, Alarm/Remote Start, Cruise Control & Stereo
Source: by
Kill Switch Wiring Diagram in E4OD; "...Standard transmission equiped vehicles have a clutch interrupt switch mounted on the clutch support. Automatic trans vehicles have the same wiring, but they are jumpered. If you look closely at the above diagram (sorry for the poor quality) the Red/Light Blue circuit is the wire that you want to switch..."
Source: by BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at FSB
Kill Switch Wiring Diagrams; "...The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective. "ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
Kill Switch; "...These are Hella battery switches with heavy-gauge battery wires, used on 03-up Land Rover Range Rovers & LR3s as transport cutoff switches, rated at 100A continuous; 1000A @12V for 10 sec. The battery terminals are unusual, but also high-quality. The wire with the post is about 17" and the other is about 28". The switch is on when the red key is inserted, pushed in, and turned to lock. The nosepiece of the switch is 1 1/4" long from the mounting face. The wires have heat-shrink wrapping at the switch terminals, but they can be removed easily, exposing posts with nuts. Hella spec page: (see URL in Steve's site); Wal-Mart is selling the CalTerm chinese knock-off of this switch for ~$10 now..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
Symbols in Wiring Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at
Testing Wiring with a Multi Meter, General; Opens, Short, Voltage & Voltage Drop, Continuity & Diodes
Source: by