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FORD BRONCO -> ELECTRICAL; EEC/PCM, Self-Test, wiring diagrams... -> Power Door Lock
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Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars
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Door Lock And Window Switches Stick In Depressed Position TSB 94-11-18 for 94 Bronco & F Series
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Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Specifications, & Special Service Tools/Equipment in a 96 Bronco & F Series from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop
Actuator Bracket Repair Video in a 94; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by pfun41 at youtube.com
Actuator Connector Location in Full Body Diagram in a 90
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net
Actuator Fastening Discussion
Source: by members at FSB
Actuator Fastening in a 91
Source: by k1w1t1m at FSB
Actuator Replacement in a 90
Source: by BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Actuator Replacement in a 90; pics are gone; ; pics are gone;Bronco Journal September 21, 2002; Work Project: Door Lock Replacement Journal Entry #3. "...First, I checked the local Ford dealer in Saskatoon for a price on new door lock motors - they wanted $187.00 CDN plus taxes for a new 1990 OEM door lock motor. YIKES!!!!!! So, I bought TWO new lock actuators from EBAY. They cost me $30.00 US or a total or about $70.00 CDN when all was said and done. That is about $35.00 CDN each. The nice thing is that the ones I bought are OEM - original FORD parts! The catch: The solenoid actuators are for 1992-96 Ford trucks and are different in two respects: (1) they have different mounting brackets, and (2) the electrical connector is different - both are no problem - just see the procedure below. The message here is to SHOP around, scrounge - be patient - be smart, and the parts will come to you eventually and usually at a better price - the prime objective. Step One: The new actuators have a different mount. You have to DRILL out the original mount rivets. If you are installing original 1990 parts - don't drill the rivets - but if you are upgrading to a BETTER actuator - drill the buggers! Don't be afraid - rivets are a dime a dozen and please use STEEL rivets, not the aluminum ones. I used the 1/4 " steel rivets. Once you have drilled the rivets out - remove the old actuator by gently prying it away from the outer edge of the door. Throw a trouble light in the door to assist. Note the z-bend at the end of the actuator rod - lift and pull. Disconnect the electrical connector. Step Two: Since the new actuators have a different connector assembly - CUT the old connector head off. Don't be afraid - this is why they invented solder-less connectors. Don't worry about polarity at this point. Step Three: (Preparation) : Depending on the rivets used, you may need to place a "backing washer" onto the new actuator mount. I simply glued a backing plate on the inside of the mount with CA glue (with accelerator). Step Four: Crimp two new solder-less connectors on the wires - use insulated connectors here. When selecting the connector - test the connector on the male lugs in the new actuator for a snug fit. Use the correct size and you can even slightly squeeze the connectors with pliers for a better and snugger fit. Keep in mind that you don't want these to fall off. Once you have the connector lugs on, plug them into the new actuator. Test the actuator for operation. This is where life is backwards - when you press the UNLOCK button, the plunger should go DOWN. When you press the LOCK button, the plunger should fire upwards. Its simply because of the way the lever action works in the door lock mechanism. Use high quality PVC tape to tape the wire up. When taping, tape over the connector body to ensure the wires will stay in place for 20 years. Step Five: Insert the new lock actuator into the level hole - reverse of the extraction procedure outlined above. Start by having the actuator horizontal and push the z-bend end into the nylon insert in the door lock mechanism. Drop the actuator into its general position. Rivet the new actuator into place with steel rivet. Paint the rivet area on the door to match. TEST the installation. Additional Notes: For those considering a bolt and nut -don't. The rivet technique is cleaner and does not protrude as a bolt and nut will. Also, how are you going to tighten the darn thing? If you think you can get a wrench inside the door to hold the bolt - good luck! Let me know how it turns out..."
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at rfr.html via replay.waybackmachine.org
Actuator Replacement in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net
Actuator Replacement w/ 93 Taurus in an 80 F 250
Source: by drkhrs925 (Dave, tonka) at FSB
Actuator, Power Replacement in 87-96
Source: by JBronco at fte�
Connector Location Diagram, in 92-96 (part of Keyless Entry Wiring Diagram for 92-96; scroll to the right); C200, C1048 (E4OD), C911 (left vanity mirror lamp), C271 (inertia fuel shutoff, C268, C509, C203, & C228, C912 (right vanity mirror lamp), right power mirror, C601 or C608, C404 (rear axle sensor-VSS/ABS), C311 & C310 (rear window defroster), manual transmission, C166 (back-up lamp switch), C117, C441 (fuel pump module), C429 (tailgate power window switch), tailgate window switch, C428 (tailgate latch switch, key operated), G401, C209, G200, C213, C221/C222/C223 (electronic shift control module), C220, transfer case assembly, to C161 (4x4 high/low indicator switch), C1020 (BW 1356 Electric Shift on the Fly transfer case (ESOF) output shaft speed (OSS) sensor location), C1012 (transmission range sensor(TR/MLPS), C214, C504 (left door courtesy lamp), C502 (left door lock motor), C503 (window/door lock control switch master, left), C500 (left window motor), C507 (left door speaker)
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Connector Location in Full Body Diagram in a 96 5.0 & 5.8, Page 1
Source: by Ford via Chilton
Connector Location in Full Body Diagram in a 96 5.0 & 5.8, Page 2
Source: by Ford via Chilton
Connector Pin-Out Diagram (driver's side) in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Dash Harness pic in a 96 F 150; "...some connectors have been removed..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Wiring Diagrams, Pinpoint Tests, Removal & Installation, Adjustment Procedures, Specifications, & Special Service Tools/Equipment in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
Harness & Connector Location & Removal from Door for Quick Disconnecting While Wheelin' Without Doors in an 88
Source: by Reptillikus (Kevin W) at forensick.net
Harness & Connector Location & Removal from Door in 92-96; "...The passenger door harness disconnects inside that kick panel. But the driver door harness is continuous from the door lock motor all the way over to those passenger connectors. Either pull the dash, or disconnect everything inside the driver door, and then feed the harness out of it as you remove the door. I'd just unbolt the hinges & hang them both from a beam across the roof of the truck, leaving the wiring connected..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
Harness & Connector Location & Removal from Door in an 88; "...For those pre-92 guys, these are the two connectors behind the kick panel you unplug to remove the door w/o cutting any wires. The upper plug is the power for the windows/locks & the smaller is power for the speaker. On the driver side, the connectors look the same but the green one is gray..."
Source: by Reptillikus ((Project 4D2, Kevin W) at FSB
Lock Latch Release/Actuator Mechanism Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 87
Source: by miesk5 (Al) at home.comcast.net
Lock Motor Differences; "...The early lock motors are prone to water intrusion; both in the motor itself, and in the spiral BB mechanism, causing poor performance, high current draw, & eventual failure..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Manual to Electric Swap Info from 92-96 in a 78
Source: by chebbykiller (Big Black, The Bronco) at SuperMotors.net
Manual to Electric Swap Info in an 89 (pics are gone)
Source: by 89_outlaw at FSB
Operation & Diagram; "...The door lock circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 2 switches. The switches share the power feed from the battery (always hot). The left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the right (passenger's) switch normally holds the motor wires to the left switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motors. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motors' direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position. Note that the driver's lock motor is not connected to the driver's lock switch..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 87
Source: by Chilton via ARRC via miesk5 at SuperMotors.net
Switch Connector Diagram in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
Switch Continuity Diagram in 87-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Symbols in Wiring Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Testing Wiring with a Multi Meter, General; Opens, Short, Voltage & Voltage Drop, Continuity & Diodes
Source: by freeautomechanic.com
Wiring Diagram for 92-96 (First diagram)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Wiring Diagram for 92-96 w/Connector Locations (second diagram)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell)
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net
Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
Wiring Diagram in a 96 Bronco & F Series from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop
Wiring Diagram in an 84 (diagram #3)
Source: by toddcomputer.com
Wiring Diagram in an 86 & Ford truck
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as Door
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com