|
|
|
FORD BRONCO
-> ELECTRICAL; EEC/PCM, Self-Test, wiring diagrams...
-> Electronic Engine Control (EEC); SELF TEST & Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), OBD II, etc.
|
|
WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 29,162 LINKs!
This is a Ford Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner.
Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars
|
| Select A Category: |
|
EEC-IV; SELF TEST & Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), Overview, etc.
|
|
EEC-V (OBD II) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), etc.
|
|
Chip
|
|
EEC General
|
|
EEC I & EEC II
|
|
EEC-III
|
|
Electronic Modules, Protection From Damage by Static Electricity TSB 88-13-3 for All Light Truck Lines, etc.
|
|
Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993 by Charles O. Probst
|
|
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) & Check Engine Light (CEL)
|
|
Microprocessor Control Unit (MCU) Overview
|
|
Powertrain Control Module (PCM); also called Computer, EEC
|
| Select A Link: |
|
Electronic Engine Control History, Ford; 1978: "...Ford Motor Company introduces its first “Electronic Engine Control (EEC-I)” system. This system was very limited in the control of engine functions and only controlled ignition timing, EGR flow and the air pump's injection of air into the exhaust. 1979: Ford introduces the EEC-II system. This system added air/fuel ratio control (feedback carburetor), throttle kicker (controls engine idle speed during start up and AC function) and canister purge control to the ECC-I system. 1980: Ford introduces the EEC-III system. This system included all the sensors used by the ECC-II system, with the addition of a temperature Sensor. In 1981, the ECC-III system was modified to include controls for the new Electronic Fuel Injection systems. The EEC-III system was used on some models of Ford vehicles until 1984. 1980: In addition to the EEC-III system, Ford introduced another computer control system, called the “Microprocessor Control Unit (MCU)”. This system was used on a limited number of Ford vehicles up until 1991. 1983: Ford introduces the “Electronic Engine Control - IV (EEC-IV)” system. This system is capable of controlling a larger number of sensors, switches and actuators, and was used on a greater number of Ford vehicles. The ECC-IV system was used from 1983 to 1995. 1994: Ford introduces the EEC-V system (OBD-II). This is a highly sophisticated system that uses more special programs to enhance the computer's capability to monitor, detect and report failures, especially to the vehicle's emission system. This system was introduced on a limited number of 1994 and 1995 vehicles. Starting in 1996, all Ford vehicles (cars and light trucks) sold in the US are equipped with the EEC-V system..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
|
Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; Scroll Down on First Page, Click on each Section, then on next page, click on the pdf file; the complete book is over 85MB pdf and can be downloaded @ http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Book.pdf
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
|
Ford Control Module Overview, from Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
|
Break-Out Box Overview; \"...The breakout box put itself between the engine and the computer, and allowed the user to rapciously access the information being exchanged. They are simply a pinout board, mounted in a box, with associated cabling, like this... You can see the way the cabling hooks into the computer and then bridges into the automobile system. A closer look at the pinout board, little holes numbered to correspond to the numbered wires in the connector:The output is readable with a high impedance (this is IMPORTANT- Digital Volts Ohmeter (DVOM) No cheap knockoffs here, they may fry the computer by introducing their own voltage.) Not as fancy as a scanner which decodes the meaning for you, but valuable nonetheless because you can always look up every meaning of the output signal somewhere. Like on the factory manual CD or in the manual itself! FORD decided to make maximum use of the breakout box, and designed add ons to allow you to look at other systems. Here for example, is a harness (still looking new in the wrapper) that hooks into all the Distributorless Ignition System (DIS). It connects to the sensor connectors... allowing you full access to the signals, even while the engine is running: TFI (thick film Ignition) Yes there is a cable for this. Mine cost me $15. Here is the diagram ...There was an adapter for the breakout box that read the brake codes, AND... AND... did the procedure for properly bleeding them. It was called the anitlock Brake Adapter (ALA) and looks like this when installed in the unbilical for the breakout box: Betwen $125 and $200 on E-bay. Worth every penny if you want to look inside that engine..."
Source: by Glacier991 (Chris) at explorerforum.com
|
Check Engine Light (CEL)/ Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) Wiring Diagram in a 95
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
|
Connector, 10-pin Re-Pin/Repair; "...The “ten pin” connectors are these salt and pepper shaker looking things found at the back of 5.0L engines -between the intake manifold and firewall. These connectors are notorious for developing poor connections and causing strange EEC quirks, like idle fluctuations, intermittent drivability problems, and unexplainable diagnostic codes to be triggered. Ford issued recall 91E19 on 3/27/1992 just for this problem, and created an “extension harness”, assuming the original harness was too short causing the large connectors to pull apart. The real cure for this problem is cleaning and re-shaping the electrical terminals inside the connectors. You should consider doing this as preventative maintenance even if you don’t have problems yet..." read more
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
Diagnosis & Troubleshooting, Chapter 10, from Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
|
E4OD Controls Overview, Sensors, DTC (s) & Diagram; Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 12A650: On vehicles equipped with gasoline engines, the operation of the E4OD automatic transmission is controlled by the powertrain control module. Many input sensors provide information to the powertrain control module, which then controls the actuators that affect transmission operation..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
EEC Identification, Bronco & Ford
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
EEC Identification, Bronco & Ford
Source: by smileybry at FSB
|
EEC IV Pin-Outs (Partial) in 88-89 & 90-91 Bronco 4.9; 88-90, 91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.0; 88-91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.8; Looking Into Harness Connectors in Ford Electronic Engine Control Overview, Chapter 12, of Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
|
EEC IV Strategies
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
|
EEC Locations, Bronco & most Ford
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
EEC Strategies "...Start / Crank, Cold Start & Warm Up, Cold Drive-Away, Warm Idle, Warm Cruise, Full-Throttle Acceleration, Deceleration; Failure Mode & Adaptive Strategy
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
EEC-III; "...The EEC-III is one of the engine control computer systems used by Ford since midyear 1978. (We will cover the others in later issues.) This procedure uses an inexpensive voltmeter and other generally available test devices instead of the special diagnostic tester originally specified by Ford. Just follow these steps to get the service codes from cars using this system..."
Source: by tomco-inc.com
|
EEC-IV "...was introduced in 1983 and has gone through several major physical changes, with the earliest models showing a fairly simple two board design usingthrough hole soldered components. The last of the EEC-IV designs were much morecurrent in technology, showing extensive use of surface mount components and amuch more finished and complex appearance. In between, there appears to be avariety of mother/daughter board and other designs. Still, they are all called EEC-IV, although somewhere in its life there was a Ford P/N generational change.."
Source: by auto-diagnostics.info
|
EEC-IV Engine Management System Links, Ford
Source: by acc-electronics.com via web.archive.org
|
EEC-IV System Has NO Control Over the Following Items; "...Fuel quantity and quality; Damaged or faulty ignition components; Internal Engine Condition - rings, valves, Timing belt, etc.; Starter & Battery circuit; Dual Hall sensor; TFI or DIS module; Distributor condition or function; Camshaft sensor; Crankshaft sensor; Ignition or DIS coil; Engine governor module..."
Source: by Ford via arrc.epnet.com
|
Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) for an 86 (Partial); Speed Control on pages 135-139, A/C & Heater on pages 140-145, Radio on pages 127-129
Source: by Ford via Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at telus.net
|
Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Overview, Ford
Source: by bullittarchive.com
|
Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Overview, Ford
Source: by Ford at fordvehicles.com
|
Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Overview, Ford; EEC I, EEC II, EEC III & EEC IV
Source: by wikipedia.org
|
Electronic Engine Control History, Ford
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
Engine Air/Fuel Ratio Control Assembly Depiction; The MCU is programmed to interface with various types of sensors, switches and actuators to perform engine control functions including air/fuel ratio control. - 80.6 MB pdf
Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com
|
Explanation of 3-Digit Codes & MIL TSB 92-24-03 for 91-93 Bronco, F Series and Many Others
Source: by Ford via Steve83 & joshhath at FSB
|
Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) Overview; "...In FMEM mode, the computer is receiving a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy. In this mode, the computer uses an alternate strategy to maintain reasonable vehicle operation in spite of the fault. The following chart lists the system faults which will turn on the CHECK ENGINE light in this mode. The error code associated with this system fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and vehicle will return to normal vehicle strategy. The error code stored when the light was on was not erased. This code is one of the continuous error codes and can be accessed by running the KOEO self-test. ..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM); FMEM is an alternate system strategy in the PCM designed to maintain vehicle operation should one or more sensor inputs fail. When a sensor input is perceived to be out-of-limits by the PCM, an alternative strategy will be initiated. The PCM will substitute a fixed in-limit sensor value and will continue to monitor the faulty sensor input. If the faulty sensor operates within limits, the PCM will return to the normal engine running strategy. Engine Running DTC 98 or 998 will be displayed when FMEM is in effect. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)/Message will remain on when FMEM is in effect..."
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Ford EEC IV Operation & Testing. Overview; "... ECT. MAP/BARO. TPS., etc. Used on most Fords. EGR Position (EVP) Feedback (PFE) EVP Linear Potentiometer..." PowerPoint Presentation READ MORE
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) via powershow.com
|
Ford EEC IV Operation & Testing. Overview; "... ECT. MAP/BARO. TPS., etc. Used on most Fords. EGR Position (EVP) Feedback (PFE) EVP Linear Potentiometer..." PowerPoint Presentation READ MORE
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) Overview; "...HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced. NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned "ON". The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
High Idle & Dieseling Troubleshooting Chart in a 94, from PCED Chart 7 for a 94; Preliminary Checks; Overheating or not Reaching Normal Operating Temperature, Vacuum Leaks, Throttle Plate & Linkage, Speed Control Chain Binding/Sticking, Air Intake Tube/ Intake Manifold Leaks; Check for Codes..." READ MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Inferred Mileage Sensor Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F Series
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net
|
Limp Mode; "...Fail Code conditions or Limp Mode happens when the vehicle computer recognizes a problem in it's logic. When an expected signal value from a sensor is sent to the computer and is not within the computer's programmed specifications, secondary programs are activated by the computer to strive to protect the transmission from damage the improper sensor signal might cause to occur. In other words, the computer is always expecting certain signal values from certain sensors i.e. the temperature sensor, the speed sensor, the throttle position sensor, etc. As long as these signals are what it would normally expect for the conditions and is normal based on all the other signals it is receiving from other sensors, it acts normally and accordingly. If the computer, all of a sudden, receives some crazy signal from one of the sensors that is out of the normal range expected from this sensor, it will go to emergency or secondary measures. These emergency measures vary depending on the severity of the defective signal. All this is preprogrammed into the computer's logic by the manufacturer. The manufacturer has decided that as long as a certain parameter of a particular signal is sent from a sensor to the computer, all is well. The manufacturer decided that if this signal is higher than their highest parameter or lower than their lowest parameter, something is wrong with that sensor and the computer should make someone aware of the situation and take action to try to save the vehicle systems or powertrain. Perhaps the computer will simply cause the check engine light to come on. The signal variation wasn't severe or critical to cause any mechanical failures but the vehicle's operator is made aware that he or she should have the vehicle checked out electronically to see if a minor sensor has broken down or is starting to send the odd irratic signal. This type of condition is commonly referred to as a soft code. Normal functions are not affected but if the repair is not made, performance or fuel efficiencies might suffer. Perhaps the sensor only malfunctioned one time and all other times was fine. This might be an early warning of a sensor that is beginning to fail or has a loose connector or connection. Other times the signal needed to perform operations normally is so far out of specification that the computer has no choice but to go into survival mode. With transmissions, the computer will cause the internal tranny fluid line pressure to default to high to protect clutches and bands. The transmission also turns off the shift solenoids to cause the unit to default to a single gear, usually second or third. All normal instructions to control line pressure are overridden so a hazardous slipping condition cannot occur easily. This theoretically is so that the vehicle's driver can get the damaged vehicle to the next town for repairs. This condition is commonly called Limp Mode for this reason. You limp to the next town in second or third gear only, at full line pressure so the tranny guts won't slip on your trip in. By the way, interestingly and just as a side note, if the cable harness going to your transmission was ever to become detached, severed or damaged, your transmission would also go to limp mode. The vehicle's computer would immediately sense that it has lost contact with the transmission and would set the codes and send limp mode signals to the tranny. But because the harness is severed between the computer and the transmission, no computer signals will reach the transmission. These sent signals, however, would have had the identical affect on the transmission as what taking away supplied power to the shift and line pressure solenoids has as in the case of a transmission harness being detached or cut. Due to the engineered voltage strategies of the solenoids, the transmission simply defaults to a single gear and line pressure defaults to high, all in order to limp you home. A Throttle Position Sensor that improperly sends a reading that it is wide open when in fact it is physically closed would be detected by the computer when it compared this reading with the vehicle speed sensor that perhaps is showing very slow vehicle speed. The signal, by itself can't be considered wrong but when put against all the other sensor signals of the system might cause a computer concern. The computer, at this point, unable to trust the collection of signals because together they are not making sense in it's logic, will simply go to limp mode in the transmission to protect it and make the operator aware that something is wrong with one of the sensors and a mechanic's attention is needed to correct the situation. This Fail Code Condition will show up as a code reading on a mechanic's scanner. This code will be cross referenced to a table from the manufacturer and represent a problem with a particular sensor or a group of sensors or system. It gives the mechanic a better idea of where the problem has showed up and which systems or sensors are involved in the malfunction. The table of codes and what each one means, is commonly programmed right into the scanner tool that the mechanic uses for easy reference. i.e. the scanner tool might tell the mechanic that the computer has thrown a code 35 which is the transmission fluid temperature sensor and might give the mechanic the recommended values this sensor should provide and what it in fact provided. In your electronic transmission, many important functions are controlled by the computer. Shift timing, sequence, feel, line pressure are controlled. The information from the vehicle speed sensor affects fuel injection, fuel mixture, ABS, transmission operation, etc. Load information of your engine is commonly taken primarily from the TPS (throttle position sensor) or the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure). This controls transmission shifting and downshifting when stepping on the gas or climbing hills. A regular scanning of the computer for any set hard or soft codes is something routinely done by most good tuneup shops these days..."
Source: by Greg O at autotransinc.com via webarchive.org
|
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) Introduction TSB 88-05-07 for all 88 Bronco, F series, & all others
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com
|
Microprocessor Control Unit (MCU) Overview; "...The Microprocessor Control Unit (MCU) system was used on most 1981–83 carburetor equipped vehicles, and 1984 and newer V8 engines with feedback carburetors. The MCU system uses a large six sided connector, identical to the one used with EEC-IV systems. The MCU system does NOT use the small single wire connector, like the EEC-IV system. This system has limited ability to diagnose a malfunction within itself. Through the use of trouble codes, the system will indicate where to test. When an analog voltmeter or special tester is connected to the diagnostic link connector and the system is triggered, the self-test simulates a variety of engine operating conditions and evaluates all the responses received from the various MCU components, so any abnormal operating conditions can be detected.Diagnosis of a driveability problem requires attention to detail and following the diagnostic procedures in the correct order. Resist the temptation to begin extensive testing before completing the preliminary diagnostic steps. The preliminary or visual inspection must be completed in detail before diagnosis begins. In many cases this will shorten diagnostic time and often cure the problem without electronic testing..." READ MORE for Reading Codes & Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's)
Source: by Ford via arrc.epnet.com
|
NO CODE; IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) Overview; "...HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced. NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned ON. The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
|
No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
|
Open Loop & Closed Loop Overview; "...Open Loop fuel control, the ECU takes its best guess at the injector Pulse Width (PW) to achieve a desired A/F ratio. With a Closed Loop system, the ECU can actually use Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensors to check and see how well it's doing for fuel control, and make adjustments as necessary, including updating its programming..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Ed H at musclemustangfastfords.com
|
Rare Location of Early EEC Above Gas Pedal pic
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code
Source: by RepairPal
|
Rough idle, hesitation, poor throttle response, induction backfire and stalls during cold start/warm up may be caused by the poor volatility of some high octane premium grade unleaded fuels (91 octane or higher (R+M)/2); in Tips to Avoid Lean Conditions TSB 91-8-13; "...Rough idle, hesitation, poor throttle response, induction backfire and stalls during cold start/warm up may be caused by the poor volatility of some high octane premium grade unleaded fuels (91 octane or higher (R+M)/2). When compared to regular grade unleaded fuel (87 octane (R+M)/2), high octane premium grade unleaded fuel may cause long crank time.ACTION: Use a regular grade unleaded fuel in all vehicles, except where a premium unleaded fuel is recommended in the Owner Guide. If lean air-fuel type symptoms are experienced, determine the grade and brand of fuel used and offer the following service tips. Advise those using a higher octane grade fuel to switch to a regular grade unleaded fuel. For those using a regular grade fuel, advise them to try another brand. Do not advise using a higher octane unleaded fuel than is recommended for that specific engine. Ford engines are designed to perform best using a high quality regular grade unleaded fuel. Only advise using a higher octane unleaded fuel to avoid potentially damaging spark knock or ping, but do so only after mechanical fixes are ineffective. NOTE: ALL UNLEADED GASOLINES USED SHOULD CONTAIN DETERGENT ADDITIVES THAT ARE ADVERTISED AS HAVING "KEEP CLEAN" OR "CLEAN UP" PERFORMANCE FOR BOTH INTAKEVALVES AND FUEL INJECTORS..."
Source: by Ford via A-Train at markviii.org
|
Scan Tool Instructions; Actron®, Auto X-Ray, KAL
Source: by tradervar.com
|
Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, Short Solenoid Body Life, 4th Gear Starts in D/High Pressure may be caused by a malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Power Relay. The EEC Power Relay is controlled by 12 volts from the ignition switch and is responsible for supplying voltage to the computer and solenoid body. If the relay contacts stick open, the complaints are as follows: Gas engine applications won’t start, Diesel will start and run, but have 4th gear starts in D, 2nd gear in 2 and 1, and maximum line pressure. If the contacts are stuck closed, the complaints may be as follows: Both gas and diesel engine application: Scan tool won’t work, vehicle battery goes dead, short solenoid body life. Note: Watch for corroded relay terminals and connectors on 89-91 E-series vans. The relay is very close to the right side battery and prone to corrosion problems especially on diesel ambulances..." read more, Diagrams are gone
Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org
|
SELF TEST - & DTCs; EEC III; "...The EEC-III is one of the engine control computer systems used by Ford since midyear 1978. (We will cover the others in later issues.) This procedure uses an inexpensive voltmeter and other generally available test devices instead of the special diagnostic tester originally specified by Ford. Just follow these steps to get the service codes from cars using this system..."
Source: by tomco-inc.com
|
STAR - Self Test Automatic Readout (Ford test equipment); "...The scan tool allows any stored faults to be read from the engine controller memory. Use of the scan tool provides additional data during troubleshooting, but does not eliminate the use of the charts. The scan tool makes collecting information easier, but the data must be correctly interpreted by an operator familiar with the system..." (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
Source: by Chilton via AutoZone
|
Symbols in Wiring Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Testing Wiring with a Multi Meter, General; Opens, Short, Voltage & Voltage Drop, Continuity & Diodes
Source: by freeautomechanic.com
|
Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Thick Film Ignition (TFI), Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
|
The Parameter Identification (PID) mode allows access to powertrain control module (PCM) information. This includes analog and digital signal inputs and outputs along with calculated values and system status. There are two types of PID lists available and both are used throughout this manual. The first is the Generic (J1979) OBDII PID list. This is a standard set of PIDs for all manufacturers all scan tools must be able to access. The second is a Ford specific (J2190) list which can be accessed by an adequate scan tool. When accessing any of these PIDs, the values will be continuously updated. The Generic or Ford PID list provides definitions and values in appropriate units. For more information, refer to the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J2205 document. Read More
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
|
Waveforms, PIP, SPOUT, IDM in Push Start & CCD, Page 122 in Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; Scroll Down on First Page, Click on each Section, then on next page, click on the pdf file; the complete book is over 85MB pdf and can be downloaded @ http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Book.pdf
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
|
Wiring Diagrams (Partial, Bronco similar) for F 150 in 86, 89, 91 & 95; EEC, Start/Ignition, EFI/Fuel System, Emissions, E4OD, AOD/C6 (+ clutch interlock switch), etc. from Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
|
|
