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"...Why are the cables and battery so important? The starter circuit pulls a lot of amperage, up to 500 amps depending on the starter, the engine load, and battery condition. This kind of amperage stresses all of the components in the starter circuit, including the battery, battery terminals, the battery disconnect switch, the cables including the ground path, and any remote solenoids. Problems with these components are hard to find because they appear fine at rest or under a light load, but generate high resistance under heavy amperage draws. The result will be low voltage to the starter during cranking, resulting in heavier amperage draw and increased internal heat in the starter. Over time, this will cause starter failure. Voltage measured at the starter during cranking should always be above 9.5VDC..."
Source: by powermastermotorsports
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Bolt Size & Torque for 92-96; "...Starter Style Ford 2-bolt, Stainless Steel, Polished, 12-Point 289, 302, 351W, 12-point, 3/8"-16,Underhead Length (in) 1.500 in., There will be two bolts holding it on, the upper bolt will have a 1/2" head and the lower bolt will have a 9/16" head; 1. Position solenoid to housing, ensuring that the solenoid plunger is attached through the drive lever. Bottom solenoid terminal (M) should have a metal strip attached to it. Tighten solenoid bolts to 5-10 N-m (45-89 in-lb). ..." READ MORE
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Connector Location Diagram, Engine Area in a 92 5.0 & 5.8
Source: by Ford via Jem270 at Supermotors.net
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Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..."
Source: by Gordon via miesk5 at FSB
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Difference between Automatic & Manual Transmission; "...The locating circle on the face of a Ford starter is made to different dimensions for manual and automatic transmissions. This keeps a person from mixing the two starters up since they look similar. If the starter does not fit in the hole in the intermediate plate, this indicates that a person either has the wrong starter or the wrong intermediate plate. Do not enlarge this hole or grind on the tsarter to make it fit, instead change the incompatible part. Please note: Part # 9172 is for pre-1975 (auto) and pre 1980 (truck) manual transmissions ONLY. Part # 9162 is for automatic and 1975 and later (auto) and 1980 and later (truck) manual transmissions)..."
Source: by powermastermotorsports.com
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Dimensions, Engine & Starter & Sump Locations, 351W, 351-400 C/M, 352-427 FE
Source: by classictruckshop.com
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Disable Kill Switch Wiring Diagram; "...will allow the engine to continue running, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Drives, Exploded, Ford 2 bolt type, 2.3 mm (.090) "...On engines with worn thrust bearings, the excessive crankshaft end play may cause pinion damage when the flywheel moves toward the starter. The 76-2306 helps prevent pinion damage by backing the starter away from the crankshaft flywheel..."
Source: by wai-wetherill.com
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Drives, Exploded, Ford 2 bolt type, Shims needed due to worn thrust bearings in engine;
"...This condition is the result of the drive engaging too deeply into the flywheel.
The face of the drive is rubbing on the flywheel and gradually cutting into the cover that holds the drive together. Eventually, it cuts through and the drive comes apart.
The damage is not caused by a problem with the starter. It is because the flywheel is floating as a result of worn thrust bearings, located inside the engine block, whose function is to keep the crankshaft centered. This wear can be enough to cause starter and ring gear engagement problems on an engine with 60,000 or more miles. It might take a long time to destroy the original starter, but when a new unit is installed, the drive can be quickly destroyed. Therefore, it is important to properly diagnose this problem when inspecting the customers original core rather than providing him a replacement unit.
Shims are availalbe from OCA, part number F.S.S.2B
Source: by mrreman.com via web.archive.org
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EEC-IV System Has NO Control Over the Following Items; "...Fuel quantity and quality; Damaged or faulty ignition components; Internal Engine Condition - rings, valves, Timing belt, etc.; Starter & Battery circuit; Dual Hall sensor; TFI or DIS module; Distributor condition or function; Camshaft sensor; Crankshaft sensor; Ignition or DIS coil; Engine governor module..."
Source: by Ford via arrc.epnet.com
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Installation & System Upgrade pics, PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) from a 96 F series in an 86
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Installation & System Upgrade pics, PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net
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Installation & System Upgrade, PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) from a 96 F series in an 86
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Installation Checklist, GENERAL
Source: by Haldex Brake Systems via ryderfleetproducts.com
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Installation in a 95
Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk) at FSB
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Installation in a 96
Source: by MikeW (Mike W, BroncoNut) at FSB
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Installation Info & pic, Mean Green Gear-Reduction in Fiery Redhead, 92 F 150
Source: by Ken B at Four Wheeler Magazine fourwheeler.com
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Installation pics in a 94 5.0
Source: by Dave L (OJ) at SuperMotors.net
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Installation pics in a 95
Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk) at SuperMotors.net
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Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 85; "...Check the ignition switch. It is either out of adjustment or needs to be replaced..."
Source: by all-parts.com
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Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 85; and need to shake the wheel to get the truck to start, how do i remove it? in an 85; "...There was a recall on the ing switch but i think it only went back to 1988,that could be your problem,lower column and check,there is also a rod that runs from the key switch to the ing switch,that rod is prone to breaking,remove steering wheel and take off horn assembly and remove steering wheel,you will see what to do from there..."
Source: by all-parts.com
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Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 86. Also, the shifter seems to be stuck in Park; "...The part that broke is called the rack actuator. I have enclosed a picture of it for your reference. To replace it, the upper portion of the column needs to be disassembled. If you are comfortable doing that, you will need to remove the following parts to gain access..." read more
Source: by Douglas G at en.allexperts.com
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Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 87; all of the accessories come on but there is no action by the starter also even with the key on I can not shift the truck out of park; "...The lock cylinder that you replaced is connected by linkage to a electrical ignition switch on your steering column. This switch is known to come apart. It is plastic mounted to a metal base with small tabs that hold it together. If you replace the switch it should solve your problem..."
Source: by all-parts.com
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Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 4.9, 5.0 & 5.8 w/ Nomenclature
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Manual Transmission; The locating circle on the face of a Ford starter is made to different dimensions for manual and automatic transmissions. This keeps a person from mixing the two starters up since they look similar. If the starter does not fit in the hole in the intermediate plate, this indicates that a person either has the wrong starter or the wrong intermediate plate. Do not enlarge this hole or grind on the starter to make it fit, instead change the incompatible part. (Please note: Part # 9172 is for pre-1975 (auto) and pre 1980 (truck) manual transmissions ONLY. Part # 9162 is for automatic and 1975 and later (auto) and 1980 and later (truck) manual transmissions.)
Source: by powermastermotorsports
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Motorcraft 11001 pic
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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No Start Crank Condition in 93-94 Ranger
Source: by mrreman.com via web.archive.org
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No Start Troubleshooting, EFI; for a Mustang but many tips are applicable
Source: by jrichker via Seijirou at FSB
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No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)/Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or NSS/MLPS with an AOD/E4OD, to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground or a bad starter. Check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS/MLPS) Or clutch safety switch. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ /gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper; MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}.
Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB
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No Start Troubleshooting; "...If you can't start the Bronco from the key/cylinder it might be the "upper ignition actuator" has broken in it's track inside the steering wheel OR could be just the key cylinder itself which "pops out" if you look right under it on the metal column collar, there's a little slot and with the key turned to RUN -engine off push up inside with an appropriate tool and comes right out. You can either jump start the vehicle from the "starter relay" under the hood, right inside fender area or pull off the "black plastic cosmetic column shroud" exposing a long 'ROD" and with the key turned to RUN using a set of pliers, drive the ROD downward/forward and the vehicle will start with most key functions intact....i.e, RUN/NO START, OFF/LOCK, AUX..."
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB
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No Start; & Relay Connection pic in 92-96; "...The relay trigger wire (LG/R) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N. The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter. 130A & heavier alternators use 2 fusible link wires. The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Parts Break-Out Diagram & Cable Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Parts Break-Out Diagram, Overview & System Diagram, PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) in 92-96; starter specs: "...Motor Diameter: 3", Current Draw Under Normal Load: 140-200A, Current Draw Under Maximum Load: 800A, Current Draw Under No Load: 60-80A, Normal Engine Cranking Speed: 200-250 RPM, Min. Stall Torque @ 5 Volts: 11 ft-lbs, Brush Length (New): 0.66"..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Pinion Does Not Retract; "...It is normal for a gear reduction starter to hang in the ring gear when the engine is cranked, and yet does not start. Direct drive starters do not do this because they can rotate the small amount necessary to retract the pinion. Gear reduction starters do not retract in this situation because of the resistance of the gears. The tiny amount of rotation necessary to retract the pinion is amplified in the gear ratio inside the starter, requiring four to five times the rotation insude the starter. All of this gear movement results in the pinion remaining in the ring gear until the engine fires..."
Source: powermastermotorsports.com
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Pinion to Ring Gear Clearance Info; "...If the thrust bearing for the crankshaft is worn enough, there will be excessive endplay, which means the crankshaft and everything bolted to it will move forward and rearward a small amount. This can affect the meshing of the gear teeth because the flywheel may be moving enough to let the edges of the teeth get worn down until the teeth are ground off on the edges and no longer catch. The starter would spin but not engage. Look carefully at the wear pattern on the old starter teeth and compare it with a new unit. The wear pattern should be on the meaty center part of the gear, minimizing the wear to the edges. To check the crankshaft endplay with precision requires a dial indicator rigged to measure the fore and aft free movement of the crankshaft. Take the belt/s off the crankshaft pulley and see if it seems to move too much in and out when you push in and pull out on the crankshaft pulley. To repair a worn thrust bearing requires some serious effort. I am not sure if you are willing to do all that, some people install HELP! brand starter shims to space the starter further away from the flywheel, but this is more for concerns where the starter fails to disengaged. There is a difference between the manual transmission and automatic starters, so make sure you get the right one. Some auto parts stores may have incorrect listings Also check the thin metal sheet that the starter inserts through for distortion of the hole, which can cause misalignment. There is a shoulder on the starter that needs to engage the edge of the hole in the sheet metal evenly. This helps ensure the starter sits squarely so it lines up. Drives, Exploded, Ford 2 bolt type, Shims needed due to worn thrust bearings in engine; This condition is the result of the drive engaging too deeply into the flywheel. The face of the drive is rubbing on the flywheel and gradually cutting into the cover that holds the drive together. Eventually, it cuts through and the drive comes apart. The damage is not caused by a problem with the starter. It is because the is floating as a result of worn thrust bearings, located inside the engine block, whose function is to keep the crankshaft centered. This wear can be enough to cause starter and ring gear engagement problems on an engine with 60,000 or more miles. It might take a long time to destroy the original starter, but when a new unit is installed, the drive can be quickly destroyed. Therefore, it is important to properly diagnose this problem when inspecting the customers original core rather than providing him a replacement unit. Shims are availalbe from OCA, part number F.S.S.2B; Shims; Tilton Engineering 54-958 Brand: Tilton Engineering Product Line: Tilton Starter Shims Part Type: Starter Shim Kits Part Number: TIL-54-958 Shim Material: Steel Starter Bolts Included: Yes Quantity: Sold as a kit. "...These Tilton starter shims are a must when installing a starter. You'll need these shims to ensure proper gap between the starter and flywheel..." thus Tilton shows this Pinion to Ring Gear Cearance Info & DiagramI hope this helps to show what can happen. I own a 1988 F-150, and it has 245,000 miles. I replaced the original starter about 4 years ago and have had good results since. I have not checked endplay, but have heard of people with up to an inch of endplay where there should be a just a small amount of play. When obtaining a replacement starter, get one from a smaller local rebuilder that specializes in alternators and starters (check yellow pages or web). These smaller shops handle rebuilds with more care and in general, they tend to use better quality parts than the mass rebuilders that supply the chain stores. They are also good to talk to in a case like this since they have seen so many failed starters..." Miesk5 Note, see reply for the Tilton URL or see Link listed in this section
Source: by Brian at justanswer.com
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Pinion to Ring Gear Clearance Info; "...When installing the Permanent Magnet Starter, the relationship between the pinion and ring gear is important. Due to the starter's high operating torque, damage to the pinion and ring gear will occur if the recommended clearance is out of spec. The clearance will typically be in spec if you are using the correct starter for your application. There is a much greater chance of having clearance problems if you have a modified flywheel, ring gear, bellhousing or crankshaft. Tilton Engineering Product Line: Tilton Starter Shims Part Type: Starter Shim Kits Part Number: TIL-54-958 Shim Material: Steel Starter Bolts Included: Yes Quantity: Sold as a kit. "...These Tilton starter shims are a must when installing a starter. You'll need these shims to ensure proper gap between the starter and flywheel..." thus Tilton shows this Pinion to Ring Gear Cearance Info & DiagramI hope this helps to show what can happen. I own a 1988 F-150, and it has 245,000 miles. I replaced the original starter about 4 years ago and have had good results since. I have not checked endplay, but have heard of people with up to an inch of endplay where there should be a just a small amount of play. When obtaining a replacement starter, get one from a smaller local rebuilder that specializes in alternators and starters (check yellow pages or web). These smaller shops handle rebuilds with more care and in general, they tend to use better quality parts than the mass rebuilders that supply the chain stores. They are also good to talk to in a case like this since they have seen so many failed starters..."
Source: by Tilton Engineering
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Pinion to Ring Gear Clearance Info; "...When installing the Permanent Magnet Starter, the relationship between the pinion and ring gear is important. Due to the starter's high operating torque, damage to the pinion and ring gear will occur if the recommended clearance is out of spec. The clearance will typically be in spec if you are using the correct starter for your application. There is a much greater chance of having clearance problems if you have a modified flywheel, ring gear, bellhousing or crankshaft. 1) The starter pinion to ring gear clearance should be.090" ± .030" when pinion is in its relaxed position(Figure 1). 2) When the pinion is engaged into the ring gear, there is to be .010"-.030" backlash between the teeth of the gears. Make sure the battery is disconnected before making this check. To measure, one tooth of the pinion gear should lie along a line between the centers of the pinion and ring gears, as shown in Figure 2. Wire type feeler gauges, or number drills may be used while removing the entire backlash in one direction with a screwdriver. 3) If the starter solenoid interferes with the engine block or any engine component, see if the nose on the starter is an indexable model. If so, the entire starter can be rotated about the nose to gain additional clearance.
Tilton Engineering Product Line: Tilton Starter Shims Part Type: Starter Shim Kits Part Number: TIL-54-958 Shim Material: Steel Starter Bolts Included: Yes Quantity: Sold as a kit...."
Source: by Tilton Engineering
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PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) pic
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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PMGR vs OEM pics
Source: by Cody (Cody B) at Supermotors.net
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Powermaster Mini pics in a 78
Source: by Steve J (seve) at SuperMotors.net
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Push Button Start Installation in a 93
Source: by Destructive Mechanic at FSB
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Re-Wiring 460 EFI Swap in a 79; "...OK, as usual, you will need, of course, the engine and accessories (if you want to run a serpentine belt), the computer and wiring harness (preferably out of a late 80'sor early 90's with either a C6 or a Manual Trans, can be either E or F series), as well you will need a fuel system that will be adequate to handle 40+ psi of fuel pressure, and a fuel pump that will deliver that 40+ psi of pressure (recommend a factory pump setup, or an aftermarket hi-pressure in-line fuel pump) (side note: I am taking that you have already taken out the old engine and have done the nessasary steps to install the 460 if the vehicle has not already had a Big Block in it already - 351m and 400 not included as big block). To start, you will need to do some re-wiring in the engine compartment, and also with the engine wiring harness. V+ Constant - Black/Orange - Yellow (EEC Power Relay/Fuel Pump relay). Switched - Red/Lt.Green - White - Grey/Yellow - Brown/White (HEGO,
Coil, EEC Power); Fuel Pump V+ - Pink/Black (or it can be Orange/Lt.Blue); V- - Black/Lt.Green - Black; Starter V+ - Red/Blue (it also connects to the distributor); Coolant Temp Sensor - Red/White, and Oil Pressure Sensor - White/Red; A/C Compressor - Black/Yellow (if you have no A/C, you can hook it up to a switch 12V, and use it as a bit of a high idle, I think that itwill take it up to 1100 - 1200 rpm; Speed Sensor - Dk.Green/White and Grey/Black (I don't use this, I only put this in here so you know about them), I have had no problems with the truck, not running the sensor, it has not kicked up some engine codes and or suffered any problems; Reverse Lights - Black/Pink and or Purple/Orange; Neutral Saftey Switch - Red/Blue; Check Engine Light - Brown, or Brown/Red;Well, that should be all the wiring color codes and attachments....now comes the actual swap..." READ MORE
Source: by Tom (origin, Mr.TroubleMaker) at nelson.macd.ca site via web.archive.org
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Relay & Solenoid Parts Break-Out & Wiring Diagrams in 92-96 5.0 & 5.8 Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction (PMGR)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Connection pic in 92-96; "...The relay trigger wire (LG/R) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N. The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter. 130A & heavier alternators use 2 fusible link wires. The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Connector Location in Engine Bay Diagram in a 90 4.9L Page 1
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Connector Location in Engine Bay Diagram in a 90 5.0 & 5.8 Page 2
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Depiction & Wiring Diagram, PRIOR to 92; "...the only difference is that the battery wire & all the fusible links go to the relay instead of to the solenoid...& 92-96 is functionally identical..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Diagram, 92-96 PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Ground Wire Addition & Location Video in an 86
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Location in Engine Bay Diagram in a 90
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Location in Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 95
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Relay Location pic in a 96
Source: by Roadkill (The Beast) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Parts Break-Out Diagram & Corroded Internal Terminal pics in 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay pic in a 90
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay pic in an 88
Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net
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Relay pic in an 89 5.8
Source: by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed B) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay pics in a 95
Source: by Shane C. (BigBlue, bigbluebronk) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Test, Ford (Bosch Type); "...Fuel pump relay switches, and other relays are similar to the starter solinoid, in that they make a high amperage connection through a switched low amperage connection. There are two smaller connections, and two larger connections. TO test it, apply 12v to one of the smaller connections, and ground the other smaller connection. (I used to small aligator clipped jumper wries separated by a small piece of cardboard to keep them from shorting against each other.) You should hear it click. Then check for continuity between the two larger connections.Now remove the power from the smaller connections and recheck continuity between the larger connections.With power, one should have continuity, without power it should be an open circuit (no continuity)..."
Source: by Poppy at fordforumsonline.com
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Relay Types, Early & Late Model Year pics & Internal Wiring Diagrams; "...The top 2 (late style) use parallel bolts as terminals, so the copper washer inside always touches the flat bolt heads. The others (early style) use bolts perpendicular to the relay's axis, so the washer touches the sides of the bolt heads. But if the bolt is accidentally rotated (as during overtorquing), the washer will only touch a corner, causing high resistance, arcing, and welding. That's why the new style is far superior. The continuous-duty relay has a metal housing to dissipate the heat, and its S2 terminal allows its coil to be fully isolated (for reverse-polarity duty). Note that all Main terminals are electrically interchangeable. But on the newer relays, they are mechanically different in that the plastic housing restricts access to M2 slightly more, indicating that it should have only 1 wire attached. It's common for these to be MISidentified as "solenoids", but a solenoid operates a mechanism, and a starter solenoid is ON the starter; a relay is an electrical switch. Many '90-up Fords have both a starter solenoid & a starter relay, so it's important to differentiate them. If the details or text are too small, click the pic to view the original (super) size..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Wiring Diagram in 78 Bronco & 76-78 F Series
Source: by Blue79 at photobucket.com
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Relay Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Wiring Diagram in an 86 & Ford truck
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
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Relay Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Wiring Diagrams & pic in an 83 (see Fig. 3)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Relay Wiring pic in a 90 with Wire Identification
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Wiring pics in an 80
Source: by REDBEAST9 (The Beast) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay with parallel posts pic; "...This design is superior to the older side-post style primarily because the quality of its contact doesn't depend on the rotation of the main studs, which are splined to prevent rotation anyway. Its contacts self-clean (to a degree, of course), it uses less copper, it takes up less space, and it's easier to bypass if it does fail..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code
Source: by RepairPal
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Runs On after the switch is released; This situation develops when the ignition terminal on the starter is “jumpered” to the battery terminal on the starter and a remote solenoid is used. Permanent magnet starters can actually produce power if they are driven from an outside source (i.e. the starter will act like an alternator once the engine fires and starts spinning). The current produced in the starter for this second or so will flow from the starter’s battery terminal to the starter’s ignition terminal and hold the solenoid in. This will cause the one to two second delay in the solenoid release and an irritating noise. The solution is to wire the starter per the instruction sheet, which will ensure that the ignition switch terminal goes dead the instance the key is released.
Source: by powermastermotorsports.com
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Shim Discussion
Source: by members at FSB
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Shim in a 78 4.9 Info; the starter is not being shimmed to the proper position. If all you have done in the past is take the old starter off and put a new one on, then stop doing that. If the starter makes a horrible noise during the start, then odds are that it is not shimmed properly. I would suggest putting a couple of shims in front of the bolts and then trying it. If it sounds worse, then look at the bell housing and see if there is any damage. If any welding has been done, then they might not have got it right and it is throwing everything off
Source: by Jason at allexperts.com
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Shims for Ford 2 bolt type, WAI PN 76-2306; "Shims needed due to worn thrust bearings in engine; Replaces Ford D7TZ-11N004; 2.3mm (.090 in.) T; Used w/ 2 or 3-hole D.E. housings. On engines with worn thrust bearings, the excessive crankshaft end play may cause pinion damage when the flywheel moves toward the starter. The 76-2306 helps prevent pinion damage by backing the starter away from the crankshaft flywheel..."
Source: by wai-wetherill.com
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Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles dating back to 1994, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."
Source: by genco1.com
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Solenoid Replacement in a 96
Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at FSB
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Solenoid Replacement pics in a 96
Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at SuperMotors.net
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Solenoid, PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) Repair, 92-96
Source: by WAI® Wetherill Associates, Inc. waiglobal.com
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Starter Pinion Tips cut off after a few months; "...If the starter pinion is being damaged in this way, the gear meash is too sloppy. The pinion needs to be closer to the ring gear. If there are no shims installed, then material needs to be machined off of the mounting surface of the starter. Optionally, shim the outboard starter mounting bolt only. This will roll the starter toward the ring gear, tightening its engagement. Another possiblity is that the ring gear itself could be out of round, egg-shaped. This is especially possible with new, inexpensive ring gears. Check the pinion to ring gear engagement dimensions in at least six places 60 degrees apart on the flex plate..."
Source: by powermastermotorsports.com
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Starting and Charging System Maintenance Intervals, General
Source: by icarumba.com
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Starting System Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM
Source: by Mikey350 at SuperMotors.net
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Symbols in Wiring Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Testing Wiring with a Multi Meter, General; Opens, Short, Voltage & Voltage Drop, Continuity & Diodes
Source: by freeautomechanic.com
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Voltage Drop Test, general
Source: by excelauto.com
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Wiring Diagram & Instructions for PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) 92-96
Source: by Texas Industrial Electric Co. texasindustrialelectric.com
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Wiring Diagram in 78 Bronco & 76-78 F Series
Source: by Blue79 at photobucket.com
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Wiring Diagram in 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
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Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series (detailed, from ign sw thru MLPS (called the PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH in this diagram) and to relay & starter motor
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "NOTE: Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay with the key on will cause the TFI-IV ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will not correct the timing. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle for adjusting base timing."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in a 79
Source: by Chilton
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Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM
Source: by Mikey350 at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in a 96, Page 01
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Wiring Diagram in a 96, Page 02
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150
Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB
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Wiring Diagram in an 83 see #3
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Wiring Diagram in an 84
Source: by toddcomputer.com
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Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by Cucamongan (Scotty) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagrams (Partial, Bronco similar) for F 150 in 86, 89, 91 & 95; EEC, Start/Ignition, EFI/Fuel System, Emissions, E4OD, AOD/C6 (+ clutch interlock switch), etc. from Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as starter
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Wiring Harnesses in early Fords, the ‘R’ circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is ‘no connection’ when the starter is at rest, and is +12VDC while cranking.This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting.
Source: by powermastermotorsports.com
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Wiring Info & Starting @ Relay for PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) in 92-96
Source: by BLADE262US at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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