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Accessory pic, Mounted in Glove Box in a 79
Source: by Zoso (Rob B) at SuperMotors.net
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Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Cycling Switch (ACCS) Overview; see page 34 in Ford EEC IV Operation & Testing Overview; PowerPoint Presentation
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at powershow.com
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Brake Fluid Level Switch Connector Location Diagram, Engine Area in a 91 4.9
Source: by Ford via chiltonlibrary.com
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Brake Light (Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard, Turn, Flash-to-Pass, Dimmer High & Low Headlight Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake Light Overview in 92-96; "...All vehicles use a brake warning light in the instrument cluster to warn of system malfunctions. The red warning light for the brakes can show three things; that either the parking brake is not fully released, that the brake fluid level is low in the master cylinder reservoir or the vacuum pressure is low on diesel engine vehicles. The anti-lock brake system uses one amber ABS warning light to alert the driver of malfunctions in the system. The amber ABS warning light will come on for numerous reasons. It warns the driver that the ABS has been disabled. Normal power-assisted braking remains but the wheels can lock during a panic stop while the indicator is on. Certain procedures must be followed to find the concern in this situation. Refer to «Section 06-09B» in the Powertrain/Drivetrain Manual for diagnosis and testing of the system.The yellow anti-lock brake indicator lights up for approximately two seconds when the ignition switch lock cylinder is first moved to ON or START for circuit prove out. The indicator also lights up when the RABS module detects a malfunction in the system. The self-test feature contains codes that indicate the area of the malfunction. When a malfunction is detected, the RABS control module shuts down the system and the yellow anti-lock warning indicator comes on. This permits normal braking. A code can be retrieved by momentarily grounding the diagnostic pigtail (black with orange stripe wire) after it is disconnected from KAM (keep-alive power red wire) and counting the flashes of the yellow ABS lamp. To make sure the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is not lost from memory, the ignition switch lock cylinder must be left in the ON position before the diagnostic lead is disconnected from KAM power. If more than one diagnostic trouble code exists, only the first code stored will be displayed. Additional codes will be output only after the first fault is corrected..." read more
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake Light Switch Adjustment using a F 350 Switch in a 90
Source: by buggzz at FSB
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Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch 13480: The brake on/off switch tells the powertrain control module when the brakes are applied. The switch is closed when the brakes are applied and open when they are released. The PCM uses this signal to disengage torque converter clutch when brake is applied. Failed on or not connected — Torque converter clutch will not engage at less than 1/3 throttle. Failed off — Torque converter clutch will not disengage when brake is applied. DTC: 536, P1703. ..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake Pressure Switch Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as brake, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Brake Shift Interlock Overview & Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
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Brake Shift Interlock Overview in a 96; from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 F-Super Duty & Bronco Workshop Manual; "...All vehicles are equipped with a brake shift interlock system. The brake shift interlock system prevents the shifting from PARK (the key is in run) unless the service brake is depressed. The brake shift interlock system consists of a brake shift lock actuator mounted at the base of the steering column. If the key is in run, the brake shift lock actuator continually runs unless the brake is depressed..."
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Brake Shift Interlock Removal & Installation in a 96; from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Brake Shift Interlock Troubleshooting & Overview Compendium
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB
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Brake Shift Interlock Wiring Diagram in a 92 from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Brake Shift Interlock, Inadvertent Disablement TSB 99-13-9 for 94-96; "...Corporate, municipal, or police fleets may have had their 1992-1999 Ford Motor Company vehicle modified to flash the brake lamps whenever the police lights or other aftermarket lights are turned on, which may disable the brake shift interlock. The brake shift interlock is a feature that prevents the vehicle from being shifted from Park unless the brake pedal is depressed. Disabling of the brake shift interlock feature may enable the operator to inadvertently apply the accelerator instead of the brake pedal and simultaneously shift from Park to a Drive gear. ACTION: As appropriate, dealers should advise owners (including corporate, municipal, and police agencies) that any vehicle that has been modified with a connection to the brake circuit, or that electrically interfaces with the brake lamps in any manner, should be disconnected IMMEDIATELY and the emergency lighting system should be modified in a manner that does not interfere with normal vehicle operation or the brake shift interlock. In addition, if the high-mount stoplamp flashes when the police lights are on, the modification does not conform with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 108 which requires that the high-mount stoplamp only illuminate when applying the brakes. Installation of warning lights should only be performed with a completely separate electrical system, without connection to any existing vehicle wiring. Connection of aftermarket electrical equipment into the brake lamp circuit or any other circuit which is connected to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), anti-lock brake computer, air bag system, or any other vehicle system, will cause vehicle malfunction..."
Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com
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Brake Shift Interlock; "These (and many other) vehicles are equipped with a Brake/Shifter interlock for safety. This system requires the driver to hold the brake depressed before the shift lever can be moved from the Park position. There is an actuator (solenoid) on the left side of the steering column under the dash that disengages the shifter lock when the brake is depressed. In the event this system malfunctions, the shift lever may be stuck in the Park position. One cause of this complaint may be due to a faulty brake switch circuit. If you experience this complaint always check for blown fuses and brake light switch operation before proceeding with other work."
Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive
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Brake Switch; EEC IV Pin-Outs (Partial) & 90-91 Bronco 4.9; 88-90, 91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.0; 88-91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.8; Looking Into Harness Connectors in Ford Electronic Engine Control Overview, Chapter 12, of Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
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Brake, Turn, Hazard Lights Inoperative, Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series;"...have a friend stand behind your truck and when you are pressing the brake pedal move the turn signal arm ever so slightly, if the brake like comes on, your switch is shorted out and must be replaced..."
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Center Console Mounted, Tuffy in an 85
Source: by Chris C (Chris85xlt, Erika) at FSB
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Center Console Mounted, Tuffy pics in an 85
Source: by Chris C (Chris85xlt, Erika) at SuperMotors.net
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Clutch Interlock Switch Wiring Diagram in a 91
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Clutch Interlock Switch Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as clutch or interlock, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Clutch Switch pics in 80-86
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Connector Location Diagram, in 92-96 (part of Keyless Entry Wiring Diagram for 92-96; scroll to the right); C200, C1048 (E4OD), C911 (left vanity mirror lamp), C271 (inertia fuel shutoff, C268, C509, C203, & C228, C912 (right vanity mirror lamp), right power mirror, C601 or C608, C404 (rear axle sensor-VSS/ABS), C311 & C310 (rear window defroster), manual transmission, C166 (back-up lamp switch), C117, C441 (fuel pump module), C429 (tailgate power window switch), tailgate window switch, C428 (tailgate latch switch, key operated), G401, C209, G200, C213, C221/C222/C223 (electronic shift control module), C220, transfer case assembly, to C161 (4x4 high/low indicator switch), C1020 (BW 1356 Electric Shift on the Fly transfer case (ESOF) output shaft speed (OSS) sensor location), C1012 (transmission range sensor(TR/MLPS), C214, C504 (left door courtesy lamp), C502 (left door lock motor), C503 (window/door lock control switch master, left), C500 (left window motor), C507 (left door speaker)
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Dash Harness pic in a 96 F 150; "...some connectors have been removed..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Dash Mounted pics in a 91
Source: by California Monkey (Richard, Mama Cass) at SuperMotors.net
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Dash Mounted pics in an 88 (must register to view)
Source: by Reptillikus (Project 4D2, Kevin W) at bucknakedoffroad.com
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Dimmer High & Low Headlight, Flash-to-Pass, Hazard, Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Turn & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Disassembly & Assembly in a 2000 Mustang; "...This design is used on most Ford and Mercury vehicles from 1991 through 2006 including many truck models. Tilt and non-tilt designs use the same housing and upper bearings. These instructions work for both styles..."
Source: by stolenandrecovered.com
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Door Lock And Window Switches Stick In Depressed Position TSB 94-11-18 for 94 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Door Locks & Windows, door panel mounted in an 89
Source: by jims89bronco, Inactive Account (Jims 89 Bronco, SabreBronc) at SuperMotors.net
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Door Switch Differences; "...There's only a slight difference in these door switches. On the early style, the connector (black pointer) actually moves when the pin is pushed, exposing the switch terminals. On the late style, the switch is fully enclosed. The nut (gray) is 9/16 for both. The brass sleeve (yellow) is adjustable for door alignment..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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DTC 522 & 654 indicate the gear selector was not in Park during Self-Test; "...Possible causes: Misadjusted linkage. Open or short in harness circuits. Damaged TR sensor. Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM) . OR CHECK THIS OUT, TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 230A, TRANSMISSION: E4OD SUBJECT: No upshift 4th gear starts, harsh upshifts, neutrals out after shifts
APPLICATION: Ford-E/F Series, Bronco DATE: Jan 1995 NOTE: Click on image to make it larger. All of these concerns can be the result of an inappropriate Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor signal. The MLP sensor consists of six resistors connected in series (ganged). The resistance of the MLP sensor will vary based on which range the transmission is in. The MLP circuit can be checked using the following steps. (Step 1) Check the MLPS ground: Turn the ignition on. The voltage on pin 46 (sensor ground ) should not exceed .1v. If the voltage is excessive, add an additional ground to the existing ground wire (figure 2). NOTE: Click on image to make it larger. Figure 2 Splice an additional ground from the existing ground wire to a known good ground.The negative post of the battery is the best. This view is of the pins of the MLP connector pins. NOTE: Click on image to make it larger. (Step 2) Check the MLPS voltage: The voltage at pin 30 should vary-in increments- according to the position of the manual lever (figure 3). MLP voltage (ignition on) should be within 20% of these specifications. Note It is recommended that you use a break-out box. If a break-out box is not available, you will need to pierce the wires to pins 30 and 46 for these tests. NOTE: Click on image to make it larger. (Step 3) Check the resistance of the MLPS: The resistance of the MLPS (pins 30 and 46) should change-in increments-with the position of the manual lever (figure 4). Note If this test is being done with a break-out box, disconnect the computer first (make sure the ignition is off). If this test is being done without a break-out box, disconnect the MLPS from the vehicle harness. Note Testing beyond this point will include tests of the harness. Consult the appropriate repair manual for this..."
Source: by fordbronco1995 ("JUICE") at FSB
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DTC 536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test or shorted to ground
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone
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DTC 536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test or shorted to ground
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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DTC 67 Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) Circuit Open; "...In some cases all of us at one time or another have had to "jiggle' the column shifter to get the vehicle to start because over time things losen up from DD useage.....in the Haynes Manual transmission section and www.broncolinks.com there's a diagram referring to "Point A" which is the column shift linkage and the transmission tab. A sure way to correct the "jiggling" is to go underneath the BKO on the drivers side and LOSEN the "nut" on column shift linkage and tranny tab JUST ENOUGH to click the tranny tab all the way back until it stops then 2 clicks forward and tighten the "nut".....now the column shift linkage and transmission are in sync when you go thru the grears, assuming the steering column is in resonable condition this should help correct that problem.......TOO MANY TIMES THE NSS IS DEEMED THE CULPRIT for none start when it isn't so this is a simple check to make sure. There is also another PRNDDL adjustment, but you need to remove the black plastic collar on the steering wheel, this is usually done when an actuator breaks and using pliers drive the rod downward with key on to start.....there is usually a white cable that wraps around and attached to a small mm screw IIRC that when lossened a bit it allows you to adjust the "needle" that registers on each letter of the PRNDDL..be careful because it's attached with a very fine wire loop and easily broken. The "upper ignition actuator" is another culprit because they're made of cheap pot metal.....and a PITA job to do..."
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB
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DTC P0552 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction; "... The PSP sensor input signal to the PCM is continuously monitored.The test fails when the signal is open or shorted to ground. PSP sensor damaged SIG RTN circuit open or shorted VREF circuit open or shorted PSP sensor signal circuit open or shorted Damaged PCM The DTC indicates the PSP sensor circuit is open or shorted to ground..."
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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DTC P0553 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction; "... The PSP sensor input signal to PCM is continuously monitored. The test fails when the signal is shorted to power. PSP sensor damagedSIG RTN circuit shorted to power VREF circuit shorted to power PSP sensor signal circuit shorted to power Damaged PCM The code indicates the PSP sensor circuit is shorted to power..."
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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DTC P1550 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Malfunction; "... The PSP sensor input signal to PCM is continuously monitored. The test fails when the signal falls out of a maximum or minimum calibrated range..."
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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DTC P1650, P1651 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Switch & Possible Causes
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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DTC P1703 - Brake Switch Out of Self-Test Range; "... Indicates that during Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test, BPP signal was high. Or during Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self -Test, the BPP signal did not cycle high and low. Open or short in (BPP) circuit Open or short in stoplamp circuits Damaged PCM Malfunction in module(s) connected to BPP circuit (Rear Electronic Module [REM] Windstar and LS6/LS8 and Lighting Control Module (LCM), Damaged Brake Switch, Misadjusted Brake Switch. Check for proper function of stoplamps. Follow correct Self-Test procedures, refer to Section 2, Quick Test..."
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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DTC P1709 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Out of Self-Test Range; "... The DTCs indicate that the voltage is high when it should be low..." read more
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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DTC P1729 - 4x4L Switch Malfunction; "... The 4x4L switch is an ON/OFF. If the PCM does not see low voltage when the switch is ON a DTC will set. 4x4L harness open or shorted..." read more
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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DTC P1780 - Transmission Control Switch Out of Self-Test Range; "... During KOER self-test the TCS has to be cycled, if not cycled a DTC is set. TCS circuit short or open. Damaged TCS switch. Damaged PCM. Verify the TCS switch cycles ON/OFF ..." read more
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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DTC P1781 - 4x4L Switch Out of Self-Test Range The 4x4L switch is an ON/OFF. If the PCM does not see low voltage when the switch is on a DTC will..." read more
Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club
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Dual Batteries Disconnect Schematic
Source: by Wells
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E4OD Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Wiring Diagram in a 95 Bronco; from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) & Switch Wiring Diagram in a 91 Bronco; from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) & Switch Wiring Diagram in a 95 Bronco; from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Fan Switch Connector, Burnt pic in an 88
Source: by Ironclad (Jeff J, da Money Pit) at SuperMotors.net
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Flash-to-Pass, Hazard, Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Turn, Dimmer High & Low Headlight & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Flasher Module Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as flasher, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Fuel Pump Selector Switch Testing in a 90 F 150 w/Dual Tanks & Pumps
Source: by Ford via subford (Bill K) at fte
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Glove Box Light & Switch & Location Depiction in Partial Parts Break-Out Diagram in 80-86 w/ Nomenclature
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Hazard & Turn Switch Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Hazard, Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass, Multi-function Switch (MFS) & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; Hazard, Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass, Multi-function Switch (MFS) & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-function Switch (MFS). The turn signal system is deactivated when the hazard flasher system is on. Turn signal lever motion does not affect the hazard flasher system. The hazard flasher system operates independently from the ignition switch (11572). All turn signal lamps can be made to flash in unison by depressing and releasing the hazard actuator located on the top part of the steering column. The switch is identified by a double triangle symbol. The actuator will move out or away from the steering column tube (3514) to the ON position. The hazard flasher system is turned off by first pushing in the actuator and then releasing the actuator. The actuator should remain in or toward the steering column in the OFF position..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Head Light, Turn Signal, Back-Up, License, Brake, Dome, Seat Belt Retract, Ignition & Parking brake, Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Headlight & Parking Lights Switch Color Codes and Pic in a 90
Source: by Worthy at FSB
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Headlight & Windshield Wiper Switch Removal in an 81; "...I swapped a gauge cluster into my '81. The BIGGEST pain of the whole project was getting the knobs off for the headlights and windshield washers so I could get the cluster out. There's a tab inside the knob that you have to press to release them. Try some dental hooks or tiny hex wrench, and bring some patience..."
Source: by AbandonedBronco (Spartan) at FSB
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Headlight Knob Removal w/pic in 92-96 Ford Mustang, but similar; "...Pull the existing factory headlight knob out to the “ON” position. Insert a small flat headed screwdriver into the slot on the side of the headlight knob. Gently pry on the retainer clip while pulling on the knob. The knob will simply slip off the mounting post once the clip is disengaged..."
Source: by uprproducts.com
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Headlight Knob Removal w/pic in 92-96; "...insert hooked tool into knob slot to depress spring, then pull off shaft..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Headlight Switch Connector Wiring Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Headlight Switch Fires, Part Number SW-2103: "...Over the past two years, this office has experienced fires caused by another potential problem in Ford vehicles. The problem exists within the dimmer portion of the headlight switch in Ford vehicles. The light switch involved is a Model SW-2103. These are the pull out type headlight switches usually located in the lower left corner of the front dash of Ford vehicles. The headlight portion of the switch has two pullout positions, the first for parking lights only, and fully out for headlights and parking lights. The shaft of this pull-out light switch can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise which activates a dimmer switch, lowering and raising the intensity of the lighting in the instrument panels respectively. Fully rotating the shaft counterclockwise past a notch activates the interior lights within the vehicles. The potential problem exists within the dimmer portion of this switch. The dimmer mechanism consists of a metallic resistive coil set inside a ceramic disc positioned over the shaft of the switch. The coil is exposed on its front side away from the passenger compartment. The front side of the coil passes across a contact permitting a current to flow through a certain portion of the coil when the switch is pulled our in its first or second positions. The greater amount of coil through which the current is permitted to pass (clockwise most position) creates the greatest resistance and therefore dims the dash lighting to its lowest intensity. The opposite position provides greatest intensity. Through our investigations, we have found that the coil can fail owing to wear and/or possible material defects or damage. A fractured coil can maneuver itself free of the ceramic disc permitting it to come in contact with the metal bracket which mounts and grounds the switch to the vehicle. When this occurs, a current can flow through a portion of the coil creating high temperatures melting the metal material of the coil and possibly igniting surrounding combustibles. This mechanism has been observed in three separate incidents by this office. Two of these resulted in a fire. The mechanism is precipitated by wear and/or defect in the coil mechanism. If the former is true, we expect there will be an increase in fires caused through this mechanism given an increase in service time. To this date the problem appears to be somewhat limited. However, this particular light switch has been utilized in numerous Ford vehicles. Therefore, a small increase in failure rate owing to age and wear could result in a significant increase in fire losses. The SW-2103 Light Switch Assembly discussed above is reportedly installed in the following Ford vehicles: 1986 -1997 F100, F150, F300; 1990-1994 Explorer; 1987-1994 Ranger; 1987-1990 Bronco II; 1992-1997 Aerostar..." Miesk5 NOTE: No Bronco Listed, but this may be the result of typos or incomplete research by the company.
Source: by waltersforensic.com
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Headlight Switch Removal in 78-79; "...Turn the headlights on. Reach up behind the dash and feel for the headlight switch. There is a small button that you push down, usually on the top side. While pushing the button down pull the knob and shaft out all the way. If you push the knob back in the headlight switch you can turn the lights off without catching the clip.."
Source: by Ranger429 (Trailer Special) at 7879blueovalbronco.com
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Headlight Switch Removal in 92-96
Source: by Charles A at fte
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Headlight Switch Removal in 92-96 F Series, similar to Bronco
Source: by tomtoc at fordtruckfanatics.com
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Headlight Switch Removal in mid 80's; "...Did you press the button on the top+front of the light switch then gently wiggle and pull the knob plus its stem out or pull the knob off the stem? Do yourself a favor and buy a cotter pin puller..."
Source: by Alvin in AZ at FSB
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Headlight Switch Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Headlight Wiring Diagram & Testing in 92-96; "...The only significant difference between '92-96 and '80-91 is that the MFS's DIMMER switch replaced the older beam select switch, but they perform the same function..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Headlight Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Horn Switch Removal & Installation in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Ignition Cylinder Rekeying in a 92
Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at FSB
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Ignition Cylinder Rekeying pics in a 92
Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 85; "...Check the ignition switch. It is either out of adjustment or needs to be replaced..."
Source: by all-parts.com
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Ignition Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 85; and need to shake the wheel to get the truck to start, how do i remove it? in an 85; "...There was a recall on the ing switch but i think it only went back to 1988,that could be your problem,lower column and check,there is also a rod that runs from the key switch to the ing switch,that rod is prone to breaking,remove steering wheel and take off horn assembly and remove steering wheel,you will see what to do from there..."
Source: by all-parts.com
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Ignition Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 87; all of the accessories come on but there is no action by the starter also even with the key on I can not shift the truck out of park; "...The lock cylinder that you replaced is connected by linkage to a electrical ignition switch on your steering column. This switch is known to come apart. It is plastic mounted to a metal base with small tabs that hold it together. If you
Source: by all-parts.com
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Ignition Kill Switch Wiring Diagrams; "...The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective. "ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Kill Switch; "...These are Hella battery switches with heavy-gauge battery wires, used on 03-up Land Rover Range Rovers & LR3s as transport cutoff switches, rated at 100A continuous; 1000A @12V for 10 sec. The battery terminals are unusual, but also high-quality. The wire with the post is about 17" and the other is about 28". The switch is on when the red key is inserted, pushed in, and turned to lock. The nosepiece of the switch is 1 1/4" long from the mounting face. The wires have heat-shrink wrapping at the switch terminals, but they can be removed easily, exposing posts with nuts. Hella spec page: (see URL in Steve's site); Wal-Mart is selling the CalTerm chinese knock-off of this switch for ~$10 now..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Lock Cylinder Adjustment & Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in an 83; "...The following proceedure is from the 1983 Ford Service manual, with a few minor wording changes, but should work for any year. Also included are a couple of illustrations from the same proceedure to help you visualize it..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement; "...turn the key to ACC, use a paper clip and push through the small hole in the steering column under the lock cylinder till you feel the pin inside sink a bit, then turn the key to RUN (try the "off but unlocked" position if "run" don't work out), and pull the whole cylinder out. Install the new one in a reverse manner, it may not wanna slide in all the way the first time, and may take a bit of wiggling the key front-back till everything lines up. New lock cylinder with keys is like $12 from AutoZone..."
Source: by M.L.S.C. at FSB
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Ignition Switch Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing in 87-91 (from Factory manual and the Factory EVTM guide (electrical, vacuum troubleshooting guide)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Bronco Zone Forums
|
Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram in a 95
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at chrisb.users.SuperMotors.net
|
Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagrams, early & late models
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection
|
Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagrams, early & late models
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
|
Ignition Switch Troubleshooting in 87-91 (from Factory manual and the Factory EVTM guide (electrical, vacuum troubleshooting guide)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Bronco Zone Forums
|
Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Timing Vacuum Switch Depiction; The ignition timing vacuum switch is used on certain earlier models and through vacuum, signals the ignition module to retard spark timing. The amount of retard is controlled by two calibration resistors inside the switch assembly. - 80.6 MB pdf
Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com
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Ignition Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "NOTE: Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay with the key on will cause the TFI-IV ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will not correct the timing. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle for adjusting base timing."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Wiring Diagrams in an 89
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Inertia Diagram, pre 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch Overview & pic
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
Inertia Location in 92 & up
Source: by Troll Banned (Bronco Rob, BroncoRob) at SuperMotors.net
|
Inertia Location in a 93 & Info on other years by others
Source: by Troll Banned (Bronco Rob, BroncoRob) at FSB
|
Inertia Location in a 94
Source: by 1994xlt (Cole R) at FSB
|
Inertia Location in a 94
Source: by 1994xlt (Cole R) at SuperMotors.net
|
Inertia Location in a 94 (different thread)
Source: by 1994xlt via FSB
|
Inertia Location in an 86
Source: by Ryan M (fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
Inertia Location in an 87
Source: by Vincent C at autorepair.about.com
|
Inertia Location pic in a 93
Source: by Troll Banned (Bronco Rob, BroncoRob) at SuperMotors.net
|
Inertia Location pic in later models
Source: by Ryan M (fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
Inertia pic in 92 - 96
Source: by Troll Banned (Bronco Rob, BroncoRob) at FSB
|
Inertia Switch Location Diagram in an 87
Source: by Vincent C at autorepair.about.com
|
Instrument Custer Warning Light(s) May be Dimly Lit or there may be a Malfunction of the four Pin Low Oil Relay on Vehicles so Equipped. This could be due to the Ignition Switch; TSB for 83-91 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Ranger, Explorer & many others
Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com
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Instrument Panel Lighting Dimmer Circuit Wiring Diagram & Testing in 92-96; "...The only significant difference between '92-96 and '80-91 is that the MFS's DIMMER switch replaced the older beam select switch, but they perform the same function..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Key-in-Ignition Warning Switch Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 88-91 Non-Tilt
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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LED Turn Signal Flasher; "...I used a blazer electronic flasher I bought at vatozone on my bike and it fixed the flash rate after getting led blinkers. The electronic flasher usually fix the resistance problem you get from having led bulbs..."
Source: by drinkbrew (Jason) at FSB
|
Light Switch Wiring Diagram in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Locker, Dash Mounted pic in a 92
Source: by Kuss (Todd, kusscave) at SuperMotors.net
|
Low Brake Fluid Switch Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
|
Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor Circuit in Ignition Troubleshooting & Wiring Diagrams in a 92 from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor Replacement in a 92
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at FSB
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Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor Replacement pics in a 92
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at SuperMotors.net
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Map Light Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as map, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Mercury Removal Guide, Bronco (under-hood lights to 95 & ABS sensors 93-96) locations, pics, removal instructions (Explorer), etc.
Source: by wa.gov-pubs
|
Mercury Removal Overview
Source: by cleancarcampaign.org
|
Mercury Style Switch pic in a 96
Source: by buzzbronco (BIG HUNY) at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Cleaning & Internal pics in a 2001 Explorer; Miesk5 NOTE, as Steve wrote it should be electrically & functionally identical to our years; "...Wipe with a rag, hit with contact cleaner and an old toothbrush to clean. Regrease with dielectric grease. Save ~$80 for a new switch that will only last ~4 years..."
Source: by Electrohacker at sites.google.com
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Cleaning; "Just hit hazard switch in and out for about a minture, which cleans the MFS contacts and presto"
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) via cawright3 at FSB
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Failure Causes; "...Mechanical components wear out or electrical connections are faulty; If the switch assembly is not operating properly, turn signals, hazard warning lamps, windshield wipers/washers and the headlamp beam selection may not operate properly. Related Components to Check; The switch itself, the electrical connections to the switch and the connections to each of the affected components (items such as turn signals, wipers, etc.)..." miesk5 Note; enter applicable info for year, etc.
Source: by motorcraft.com
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Overview, Ford; Note, site won't allow you to return to this page
Source: by Dave M at asashop.org
|
Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement (SW5591- F8TZ13K359AB) in a 93
Source: by Kevin L at kevin-long.tripod.com via web.archive
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement in 92-96; Steering Column Diagram; for Crown Vic, but similar
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement in a 2000 Mustang; "...This design is used on most Ford and Mercury vehicles from 1991 through 2006 including many truck models. Tilt and non-tilt designs use the same housing and upper bearings. These instructions work for both styles..."
Source: by stolenandrecovered.com
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement in a 92
Source: by topfisherman at FSB
|
Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement in a 95
Source: by mustangjonny84 at FSB
|
Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement in a 96
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at FSB
|
Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement in a 96
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at 4x4 Preservation
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement pics in a 92
Source: by topfisherman at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Replacement pics in a 96
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Testing 92-96; See Steve's Steering Column Diagram for removal/installation; "...the MFS testing is done disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Wiring Diagram in 92-96 Bronco & F 150; for lighting only, turn signals, head lights, hazards, etc.
Source: by seijirou at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as Multi-Function, Switch, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard & Brake Light Disengage E4OD Torque Converter Lockup in 2009 MY; miesk5 NOTE; but could be applicable to earlier years; "...Alternative connections or wiring practices are not recommended as certain modifications may result in other circuits becoming nonfunctional...Do not splice into the Powertrain System (PCM PCMV). Connecting to any component or wires to this system may adversely affect Engine/transmission operation..." read more
Source: by fleet.ford.com
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard & Brake Light MAY Disengage E4OD Torque Converter Lock-up Discussion in 92-96
Source: by members at nloc.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard & Brake Light MAY Disengage E4OD Torque Converter Lock-up; "...I was living with the torque converter unlocking with the R/H turn signal. And low and behold after I changed the L/H brake/turn signal bulb the torque converter stopped unlocking with the R/H turn signal. Don't ask me but it did fix it..."
Source: by Mike G & Miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard, Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Neutral Safety Switch Location in an 86 AOD; "...The AOD has the neutral safety switch mounted above the valve body on the driver's side of the transmission and the speedometer drive cable is attached to the vehicle speed sensor on the driver's side as well..."
Source: by Jim O at hemmings.com
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Neutral Safety Switch & Clutch Safety Switch Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series (PARTIAL)
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
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Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch) Adjustment in a C6
Source: by Tim O (RED WAGON, redwagon) at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch) Installation & pics in an 89 C6; "...I have another thread about this, but it is unorganized and way bigger. The Nuetral safety switch goes on the outside of your tranny and detects which gear you are in and only lets you start the car if you are in nuetral or park. It it wired between the starter relay and the starter switch. It is located on the drivers side of the transmission where the shift lever and the downshift cable attach. I actually had to get a 90 NSS from the parts store so maybee I had a late production 89. I had to odrer mine from advance auto parts because Napa did not have it. I got a Borg Warner Design part, I am not impressed with the quality but if it fails I can easily repalace it. Here is the old one and new one side by side. You can see how the epoxy sealer has seperated all the way around the edge in the old one. Removing it should take no more than 5 min. There is a little bolt at each end and one nut in the middle the nut is the hardest thing. You have to immobilize the lever attached to it in order to get the nut off. When put it back in you are supposed to adjust it but I just put it in the middle and it works for me..."
Source: by Mad Dog Tannen at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch) Wiring Color Codes in an 85; "...This schematic has a picture of the neutral safety/backup lamp switch in the corner, and gives the wire colors for the back up lamp circuit in the schematic. The neutral safety portion of the connector has a white with pink going in,(if it was equipped with starter interrupt) and a red with light blue going out to the starter relay. Without starter interrupt, both the wires going into and out of the neutral safety switch are red with a lt blue tracer..."
Source: by Mr. EdC at justanswer.com
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Neutral Safety Switch Adjustment & Testing in a 78 C6
Source: by Ranger429 (Trailer Special) at 7879blueovalbronco.com
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Neutral Safety Switch Adjustment in an 82 C6
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Info & Location in an AOD; "...AOD’s use a TV. (throttle valve) linkage on the left side that is hooked to the carburetor or throttle body with a cable or rod. It also uses a small round neutral switch above the TV. link which is screwed into the case..."
Source: by Kenneth at Bad Shoe Productions badshoeproductions.com
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Neutral Safety Switch Info & Location in an AODE; "...These trannies have a large neutral switch mounted to the manual linkage and has a hole covered by a rubber plug on the bellhousing’s bottom..."
Source: by Kenneth at Bad Shoe Productions badshoeproductions.com
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Neutral Safety Switch Installation & pics in an 89 C6; "...It probably took me a total of 5 minutes to change this part. As you can see in the pic it has two bolts holding it on and one nut holding on the downshift lever. the hardest part is the downshift lever has to be immobilized while you loosen the nut. You can do this with a screwdriver like me or the book says to use a guage rod or something. You can get to it on the drivers side of the tranny. Here is a pic of it installed..."
Source: by Mad Dog Tannen at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Part Number SW-2120 for an 87 C6 w/Electric Shift Transfer Case & 6 Pins
Source: by ccbyrd59 at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Replacement pics in an 88 C6, C-350 (Centurion Conversions); "...mounted under shifter linkage.." miesk5 Note; see pic #9 for a better view
Source: by AudraJean (Audra, Audra C, Redçmptiôn, Lochness Monster, Audra D) at SuperMotors.net
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Neutral Safety Switch Wiring Color Codes in a 79 C6; "...white/pink wire and Black/Red wire are for back up lights. The two red/blue wires are the neutral safety, I had to wire in a NSS on my shifter and used the other two..."
Source: by CrazyBRONCOguy at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Wiring Color Codes in an 89 AOD
Source: by Uncle_Monkey at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Wiring Color Codes in an 89 C6; MIESK5 NOTE; I added the ckt info here based on XRIS's 1986 Diagram; link is below; Red with Blue stripe - from IGN SW thru NSS to Starter Relay; See Page 2, it shows Red/Lt Blu from Ignition Switch to NSS Black with Pink stripe - Could be PNK/BLK from NSS to BACK-UP LIGHTS Purple with Orange stripe - PPL/ORN, based on Xris diagram is from Fuse 5 to BACK-UP SWITCH (NSS) [on page 2 of XRIS's Diagram) Red/Lt Blu from Ignition Switch to NSS Red/Lt Blue from NSS to Starter Relay /Yel from NSS to EEC PIN # 30 READ RYAN'S INFO - DO NOT hook up the EFI to the Neutral Safety Switch That is for the start circuit, between the ignition switch and starter relay. If you put 12volts on pin 30 you risk frying some circuits on the computer! You can view wire diagrams for EFI here http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6 Gry = Gray by buddy65; "...This might be of help. The main job of the neutral drive switch (also known as neutral safety) is to keep you from starting your engine with your automatic transmission in a gear other that park or neutral, and has nothing to do with the computer. As a second job, this NDS circuit is used by the computer (connected to pin 30) so that EEC IV can increase engine idle speed slightly when not in neutral or park - this allows the engine to run smoother at these times. I'm not sure why it is used at all for a manual transmission. Anyway, it will pump out a KOEO code 67 if pin 30 is not connected to the NDS circuit. On '88 to '91 V8 EEC wiring, all you need to do is tee the computer pin 30 wire into the NDS circuit which goes from the transmission to the ignition switch, and no more code 67. That's what I did on mine, and the code went away. I was never able to start it other than in park or neutral even though I had pin 30 connected wrong at first..."
Source: by Uncle_Monkey at FSB
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Neutral Safety/Back-up Light Switch , Removal & Installation (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
Source: by Chilton via Autozone
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Neutral Start Switch Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as neutral, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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No Start; & Relay Connection pic in 92-96; "...The relay trigger wire (LG/R) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N. The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter. 130A & heavier alternators use 2 fusible link wires. The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Overhead Switch Panel Fabrication in a 92
Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at FSB
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Overhead Switch Panel pics in a 92
Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at SuperMotors.net
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Panel Fabrication & Installation in Custom Center Console in an 86
Source: by chemfrk (Blue) at FSB
|
Panel Fabrication & Installation pics in Custom Center Console in an 86
Source: by chemfrk (Blue) at SuperMotors.net
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Panel in Ashtray Fabrication & Installation in a 95
Source: by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at bucknakedoffroad.com
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Panel in Ashtray Fabrication & Installation in a 95
Source: by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at FSB
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Panel in Ashtray Fabrication & Installation pics in a 95
Source: by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at SuperMotors.net
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Panel Installation in the Cubby Hole in a 95
Source: by TRUCKY18 (B'co) at FSB
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Panel Installation in the Cubby Hole in a 95
Source: by TRUCKY18 (B'co) at SuperMotors.net
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Panel, Dash Mounted in an 86
Source: by rem_243 at FSB
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Panel, Dash Mounted Installation in a 94
Source: by Damon H (Plug Ugly) at FSB
|
Panel, Dash Mounted Installation Info & pics in a 94 (see his Installation Link)
Source: by Damon H (Plug Ugly) at FSB
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Panel, Dash Mounted pic in a 94
Source: by BigBad94Bronco (L.I. Monster Bronco, HAD2DOIT, 1Ton94Bronco, Joe D) at FSB
|
Panel, Dash Mounted pic in a 94
Source: by BigBad94Bronco (L.I. Monster Bronco, HAD2DOIT, 1Ton94Bronco, Joe D) at SuperMotors.net
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Panel, Diamond Plate, Custom pics in a 78
Source: by Slim C (MTN BOUN) at SuperMotors.net
|
Panels, Dash Mounted Installation
Source: by Damon H (Plug Ugly) at SuperMotors.net
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Parking Light Circuit Wiring Diagram & Testing in 92-96; "...The only significant difference between '92-96 and '80-91 is that the MFS's DIMMER switch replaced the older beam select switch, but they perform the same function..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Parking/Emergency Brake Switch Location Diagram
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Parking/Emergency Brake Switch Operation; "...The switch is the white plastic one at the far L of this image, but installed it would be at the top center of the mechanism. Its contacts are exposed, so you can clean them. The dash light should come on if you turn the key to RUN & short the switch's wire to the brake mechanism chassis..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Parking/Emergency Brake Switch pic
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Door Lock & Window Switch Connector Diagram in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Power Door Lock Operation & Diagram; "...The door lock circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 2 switches. The switches share the power feed from the battery (always hot). The left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the right (passenger's) switch normally holds the motor wires to the left switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motors. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motors' direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position. Note that the driver's lock motor is not connected to the driver's lock switch..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Steering Pressure Switch (5.0L Without E4OD Only); The Power Steering Pressure Switch signals the EEC Module when power steering pressure exceeds 350 psi ±50. The engine then increases idle speed to compensate for the additional load. It appears the switch was deleted from the '94 model year. It only shows up in the diagrams until '93. the switch is directly above the steering box."
Source: by Sportruk at fordtruckworld
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Power Steering Pressure Switch (Except 5.8L Engine) Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as pressure, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Power Steering Pressure Switch Location in an 85 302 (Scroll Down); "...screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump..."
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at telus.net
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Power Steering Pressure Switch Overview; see page 34 in Ford EEC IV Operation & Testing Overview; PowerPoint Presentation
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at powershow.com
|
Power Steering Pressure Switch; EEC IV Pin-Outs (Partial) in 88-89 & 90-91 Bronco 4.9; 88-90, 91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.0; 88-91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.8; Looking Into Harness Connectors in Ford Electronic Engine Control Overview, Chapter 12, of Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
|
Power Steering Switch Wiring Diagram in an 86 5.0
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Power Window Operation & Diagram; "...The door window circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 1 switch for the left motor & 2 switches for the right. The switches share power feed through the ignition switch (key-on only). On Broncos, this feed is also used for the tailgate window motor's dash switch. For the left window, the left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground. When operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. For the right window, the left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the right (passenger's) switch normally holds the motor wires to the dash switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position.."..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Window, Power Door Lock, Power Mirror & Speaker Harness & Connector Location & Removal from Door in 92-96; "...The passenger door harness disconnects inside that kick panel. But the driver door harness is continuous from the door lock motor all the way over to those passenger connectors. Either pull the dash, or disconnect everything inside the driver door, and then feed the harness out of it as you remove the door. I'd just unbolt the hinges & hang them both from a beam across the roof of the truck, leaving the wiring connected..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Power Window, Power Door Lock, Power Mirror & Speaker Harness & Connector Location & Removal from Door in an 88; "...For those pre-92 guys, these are the two connectors behind the kick panel you unplug to remove the door w/o cutting any wires. The upper plug is the power for the windows/locks & the smaller is power for the speaker. On the driver side, the connectors look the same but the green one is gray..."
Source: by Reptillikus ((Project 4D2, Kevin W) at FSB
|
Push Button Start Installation in a 93
Source: by Destructive Mechanic at FSB
|
Recall, Ignition Switch FSA 95S28 for 88-91 Bronco & F Series & many others
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Recall, Ignition Switch FSA 95S28 for 88-91 Bronco, & F Series & many others
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
|
Speed Control Deactivation Switch Location pic at drivers side frame rail in a 93; "...The SCDS was located here ONLY in '93 on trucks with cruise; older trucks used a mechanical vaccum valve on the brake pedal to cancel cruise; later trucks had this switch on the master cylinder, where it starts fires..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter, Push Button Info & pic in an 89
Source: by Andrew K (Andy351, das panzer, sloppy seconds, the magic carpet) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter, Push Button pics in a 91
Source: by David B (dblue, One Ton 91, Centurion) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter, Push Button, Dash, Installation in a 94 (SF site pics are gone)
Source: by cultex (Joey D) at FSB
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Tailgate Latch Safety Switch (also ref to as Limit Switch or Interlock Switch) Compendium
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Tailgate Switch Wiring, Grounding & Connector Upgrade Diagrams
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Tailgate Switch, In Dash Testing
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Switch, In Dash Testing
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Switch, In-Dash pic in a 96 w/Legend
Source: by rdhayward at FSB
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Tailgate Window In Dash Switch Testing
Source: by BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Tailgate Window Switch, In Dash Bezel Retaining Clip Repair in a 96
Source: by Starman at FSB
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Tailgate Window Switch, In Dash Bezel Retaining Clip Repair in a 96
Source: by Starman (Slicktop, Pepe) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram in 92-96 (color codes are correct)
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram in 92-96 (part of PW Diagram, from Ford EVTM)
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram, Dash Switch Test, & All TG Connector Locations Diagram in 92-95
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Testing Wiring with a Multi Meter, General; Opens, Short, Voltage & Voltage Drop, Continuity & Diodes
Source: by freeautomechanic.com
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Toggle, Dash Mounted pic in an 80
Source: by Larry L (lal357, old blue) at SuperMotors.net
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Troubleshooting; "If you have a problem when turning on one circuit it causes another to come on partially (dim lights, etc.), check the ground for the part or system that was turned on first. .e., if you press the brake pedal, & the parking lights turn on partially or fully, check the brake lights' ground;This is caused by current going thru da brake light bulb filaments & finding a ground in the parking lt. system instead of its own ground"
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Turn & Hazard Signal Flasher Location in 92-96; "...Turn Signal Flasher Assembly is in front; lower right of fuse panel; Hazard is on the back of da fuse panel, behind the turn signal flasher..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Turn Signal & Flasher Trouble Shooting, General
Source: by procarcare.com
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Turn Signal Replacement in an 88; similar to 80-91; "...When I purchased my Bronco a few weeks ago the turn signal switch would not lock on a right turn. Minor annoyance is all, except for the fact that I'm also trying to teach two teenage boys how to drive. I'd rather they keep both hands on the wheel while turning a corner so I decided to spend the $35-40 to replace the switch. The neighborhood Autozone had it in stock, to my surprise so last weekend I undertook trying to replace it. You DO NOT have to disassemble your steering column to run the wire connector for the new switch. I wasted a good 3 hours trying to figure out how to disassemble my steering column when it wasn't necessary. I found a diagram in my Haynes that mentioned in a side note that you actually remove the connector from the wires. Wish I had found that a few hours ago. Step 1: Remove sterring wheel. - (Note: If there are no notches on the steering wheel and steering shaft to help you line them back up later, use a white grease pen to mark them.) This is a simple operation but you do need the right tools. on my '88 (with cruise) there are two screws holding the center cover of the steering wheel on and three wires. The wires are simple disconnects once you have the cover off, and you cannot put them back on the wrong way. Just take a second to look at them before you start yanking so you know where that one ground wire is supposed to hook up. Once you have the center cover off you need a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off the splines holding it to the steering shaft. Step 2: Remove the old switch. First find the switch connecter at the bottom end of the steering column. You can look at your new switch to see what it looks like, but it should be a gray connector with two rows of pins that is curved (crescent shaped?). Disconnect the connector. You can either disassemble the connector (see Step 3 below) or do what I did and cut it off. Don't cut it too short as you can still use it as a wiring guide in Step 3. The switch takes up almost the entire diameter of the steering column. There are two screws holding the switch down just to the left of center (under the switch locking cam arms). The switch arm itself screws into the switch mechanism so get yourself a small wrench or a crecent wrench to loosen it then unscrew it. There is one more screw that holds a wire on the right side by the ignition. Keep this screw and the two holding the switch down.Step 3: Install new switch. - This is where we get fancy. First, either draw a diagram of the connector on the new switch or compare it to your old switch to verify the wire colors are the same. We will be pulling all of the wires off the connector so you need to know how it goes back together. If you look at the face of the connector there is a piece of plastic that runs between the two sets of pins (mine was orange). You can pull this piece of plastic out by poking something small into the hole on the side of the connector (I used a multimeter probe) to pop it up enough to get your fingers on it. It pulls out pretty easily. Once you pull that piece out it is pretty simple to pull the wires out of the connector. You may need to use a small probe to loosen the prongs that hold the wires in, but without the center plastic piece this is very simple. Here's the hardest part of the whole operation. Tape the wire ends together to keep them from getting hung up (I used masking tape) then feed the wires back through the steering column. There is a little metal loop about a third of the way down that the wires run through. It is a good idea to hit that loop as it helps keep the wires from rubbing in the wrong place. Getting the wires through the metal loop and also down the rest of the column is pretty tight. It might be easier to use electrical tape on the wire ends and leave a long pigtail of it to help guide it. As soon as you can get a hold of the ends under the dash it makes it a little easier to pull it through. Using your earlier diagram or the old connector (with cut wires?) reinsert all of the wires into the connector and replace the center plastic piece to hold them all in. You might need the probe again for this piece as you have to make sure the little prastic prongs all end up on the correct side of the plastic piece or it will not hold in the wires. Screw the wire back down on the right side. The connect on the end of this wire had a small plastic cover to protect the connector as it is just a small piece of flat copper. Remove that cover and screw the connector in place by the ignition. Then replace the switch itself and screw those two screws under the cam arms. Screw the switch arm back in place. Connect the connector under the dash. Here's a tip. If your horn comes on while plugging this back in, you got your wiring diagram reversed. (Don't ask!) If all is quiet after connecting, this is a good time to test the switch. Step 4: Replace Steering Wheel: This is very simple. There is a notch on the steering wheel and a notch on the end of the shaft to help line it up (at least on my '88 there was). Alternately you hopefully marked it so you can line it back up. Once it is lined up and started on the splines of the shaft put the nut back on and screw it down. I used my cordless drill-driver for this (with a socket adapter and a large socket). Then it just took about another half turn or so with the wrench to finish it off. Replace your wires, put the cover back on, and replace the two screws that hold the cover in place..."
Source: by Pukwudji (Brian "Puk" V) at FSB
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Turn Signal Switch Connector Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 83; similar to 80-91
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Turn Signal Switch Depiction in 80-91 Tilt
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Turn Signal Switch Replacement & Repair Info w/Tilt Wheel in a 90; similar to 80-91
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB
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Turn Signal Switch Replacement & Repair Info w/Tilt Wheel in an 89; "...The white plastic that takes up half the column is the turn signal switch. The red box in the top right is the steering wheel lock. When you turn the key, it goes down. The switch is only held down by two screws. One where my screw driver is, and another, same spot, on the bottom. When I removed by wheel, I saw my top screw sitting at the bottom of the column. Once I put the screw back in and tightened them both up, everything was fine. The switch now stays in place, and the lever is now able to push the tilt bar backwards, releasing the wheel. I didn't have to replace my switch, but you see how easy it is now if you must do it. I thought about it - everything's off right now...spend 30 bucks and never think about this again... But then again it took me 10 minutes to get to the switch - I'll save my 30 and go drop it at poker. Check out last photo... If your turn signal does not snap back after turning, read on. Wanted to quickly explain how that works. When you lit the lever, the switch locks in place (green box in pic). There is a little ring around the steering shaft. As you turn, that ring rotates around the shaft until a little block on the ring hits an arm (red box) and the arm releases the lock. When my whole switch was loose, it moved the ring up the shaft a bit, and the little block wasn't hitting the arm. If your lever doesn't snap back after a turn, either the ring moved up, or the plastic lever and/or arm on the switch broke..."
Source: by Brahma502 at SuperMotors.net
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Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass, Hazard, Multi-Function Switch (MFS) & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Turn, High & Low Headlight, Dimmer, Dome, Hazard, etc. Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
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Turn, Tail, Brake, Head Light, Hazard, Ignition Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vehicle Can be Shifted Out of PARK; Brake Shift Interlock Troubleshooting & Overview Compendium in 92-96
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB
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Warning Chime/Buzzer System; Key-in-Ignition, Fasten Safety Belt & Headlamp-On Warning Wiring Diagram in a 96 from Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Winch Switch Installation pics, in-dash in a 95
Source: by wileec at SuperMotors.net
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Winch Switch Installation, in-dash in a 95
Source: by wileec at FSB
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Windshield Washer Testing in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Wiper & Washer Pin-Point Testing & Wiring Diagrams in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Windshield Wiper & Wiper Control Module (WCM) Testing Diagram & Instructions in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Wiper Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Wiper Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Wiper Switch Repair in an 87
Source: by RickyB at FSB
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Windshield Wiper Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
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Wire Color Code Abbreviation Chart; see post #4; BK Black, BL Blue, BR Brown, DB Dark Blue, DG Dark Green, GN Green, GY Grey, LB Light Blue, LG Light Green, N Natural, O Orange, P Purple, PK Pink, R Red, T Tan, V Violet, W White, Y Yellow
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150
Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB
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Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Layout in 93 Centurion Classic
Source: by Traveler (Centurion) at fourdoorbronco.com
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