Home Bronco TSB Summaries Recent Updates Gallery Submit A Link Unique Visitors: 367713	FORD BRONCO -> IGNITION; plugs/wires, distributors, MSD, firing orders; switch & ignition actuator rod, TSBs... -> Distributor - Gear, Spark Output (SPOUT) - See Ignition System; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Section for Ignition Module, PIP, Stator, etc. WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 26,000 LINKs! This is a Ford Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner. Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars. UPDATE; all Links via web.archive may be down; Copy orig. URL & go to http://replay.waybackmachine.org/ to search for the new archived copy Select A Category: Boot EGR/Coolant Spark Control (CSC) System Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT)); "..The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire..." Ported Vacuum Switch (PVS) Valve Spark Knock May be Caused by Variability in Ignition PIP (Profile Ignition Pick-up) Output due to a Combination of Engine Torsional Vibrations & Distributor Electrical Characteristics TSB 93-13-10 in 85-93 5.0L & 88-93 5.8L Bronco, Econoline & F SERIES Spark Output (SPOUT) Connector V REST Vacuum Restictor/Delay Valve Select A Link: Cam Gear Failure Replacement Units Installed in New or Remanufactured Engines; Ford Source: by cardone.com Connector Location Diagram, Engine Area in a 92 5.0 & 5.8 Source: by Ford via Jem270 at Supermotors.net Differences between 302 & 351W; "...intermediate shaft size difference (5/16-inch vs. 3/8-inch..." by SigEpBlue; "...The 351W is wider and taller than a 302. The dist shaft has to be longer to engage the oil pump..." by 7LBRONCO Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) & 7LBRONCO at FSB DTC 212; "...IDM is a feedback signal generated by the ignition system and is monitored at pin #4 of the ECM. Its purpose is to diagnose missed ignition primary pulses at the time the ECM commands the Spout signal to fire the coil. Since it is used solely for diagnostic purposes, if this circuit is not operating properly, it will not affect vehicle driveability; & by Seattle FSB- The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal is a diagnostic signal for the PCM to to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal. If an erratic or missing IDM signal is received, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC 212) is set. An occasional IDM signal may not affect drivability, but can still throw a trouble code. As SigEpBlue has stated, check for an intermittent ground on the spOUT and/or IDM circuit. Also, ensure that you have the correct Ignition Control Module (ICM) and it is wired correctly to the PCM..." Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) & by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB DTC 213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted Pin-Point Test; Before proceeding with this Pinpoint Test, verify that the base timing check in Diagnostic Subroutine has been performed. Key off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. PCM disconnected.[/B] (be careful, I hate to touch that connector!) Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 37 and Test Pin 40. Measure voltage between Test Pin 57 and Test Pin 60. Is each voltage greater than 10.5 volts? If not, see DTC 211 in TSB 95-15-11 for possible open/short location Source: by Ford miesk5 at FSB Duraspark 2 Troubleshooting (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section Source: by Chilton via AutoZone EEC-IV System Has NO Control Over the Following Items; "...Fuel quantity and quality; Damaged or faulty ignition components; Internal Engine Condition - rings, valves, Timing belt, etc.; Starter & Battery circuit; Dual Hall sensor; TFI or DIS module; Distributor condition or function; Camshaft sensor; Crankshaft sensor; Ignition or DIS coil; Engine governor module..." Source: by Ford via arrc.epnet.com Emission Vacuum Control Regulator Depiction; The emission vacuum control regulator is used to control the vacuum advance to the distributor on three and four port versions and provides a constant output signal when the input level is greater than a preset level on two port versions. - 80.6 MB pdf Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com External Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 78 w/Nomenclature Source: by Indybronco (Lula Mae) at SuperMotors.net Gear Removal & Installation Source: by Ford fordracingparts.com Gear Wear, Excessive, Ford, from the use of a high volume oil pump, Repair Source: by performancedistributors.com Installation & Removal Tool for 83 & Up w/TFI IV Source: by Thexton at Arizona Tools arizonatools.com Installation Instructions; "...Remove the #1 spark plug and with your finger over the hole turn the engine over you will feel the compression stroke with a light you will see when it gets to the top of the stroke. The other way is remove the left side valve cover and watch the #1 cylinder valves when the exhaust valve starts to open that is Top Dead Center compression stroke. Align the timing marks to the correct initial timing shown blow. Install the rotor on the shaft and rotate the shaft so that the rotor tip points to the No. 1 mark made on the distributor base. (As shown blow) Continue rotating the shaft so that the leading edge of the vane is centered on the vane switch assembly. Position the distributor in the block and rotate the distributor body to align the leading edge of the vane and vane switch. Verify that the rotor tip points to the No. 1 mark on the body. If the vane and vane switch cannot be aligned by rotating the distributor body in the engine, pull the distributor out just far enough to disengage the gears and rotate the shaft to engage a different gear tooth. Repeat Steps 3, 4 and 5. Make sure that the oil pump intermediate shaft properly engages the distributor shaft. It may be necessary to crank the engine after the distributor gear is partially engaged in order to engage the oil pump intermediate shaft and fully seat the distributor in the block. If it was necessary to rotate the engine to align the oil pump, repeat Steps 1, 2 and 3..." see diagrams for; timing marks on the timing chain sprockets; This mark was put on before removal yours may not have it. You can look at the firing order blow and align the rotor positions that way; 5.8L engine Firing order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 Distributor rotation: Counterclockwise Source: by David at justanswer.com Location pic Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net M-block (351M/400) Overview, Calibration ID codes, Ford Part Numbers Source: by Bubba (Dave R) at earthlink.net via web.archive.org No Spark Troubleshooting, Overview & Operation; "...Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module..." most is applicable to Broncos, read more; MIESK5 NOTEs; the rotary armature (ARMATURE, also called the Ignition Reluctor) has open areas called windows and tabs called vanes; stator is a Hall Effect device, which uses a magnetic field. It sits under the distributor cap and picks up a signal from the ARMATURE. this armature that has open areas called windows and tabs, called vanes. & ...The ARMATURE has the same number of teeth as cylinders in the engine and moves at the same speed as the distributor and camshaft. If you have a V8 then the ARMATURE has eight teeth; seven teeth are the same and one tooth is smaller to identify cylinder #1. As the ARMATURE spins with the distributor is breaks the magnetic field of the hall device generating a sine wave. This sine wave is called the raw Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal and indicates the engine status at 10deg. BTDC. Now some people think the TFI is responsible for this, but that is incorrect; the PIP signal passes thru the TFI unaltered to the computer...(by Ryan M) Source: by therangerstation.com No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Overview, Wiring Diagram & Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96 (Sealed Bowl) Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Parts Break-Out Diagram in 85-91 (Open Bowl) Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Parts Break-Out Diagram in 87-91 (Open Bowl) Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) (Spark Angle Pulse Width/Spark Output) to PCM in PCM Connector Pin-Out Diagram with Circuit Functions in a 96 5.0 and 5.8 (Scroll Down) from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Removal & Installation & TFI (ICM) Replacement pics in a 90 Source: by FordXFord ( G.A.B.Y.) at SuperMotors.net Removal Instructions Source: by Don B at ehow.com Removal Tips Source: by UTfball at FSB Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code Source: by RepairPal Replacement Brand Discussion Source: by members at FSB Retard Control Valve Depiction; The distributor retard control valve delays a decrease in vacuum at the distributor vacuum advance unit when the source vacuum decreases. - 80.6 MB pdf Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com Rotor Parts Break-Out Diagram in 85-91 Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Shudders, Bogs, & Intermittent No-Spark: Spark w/SPOUT Connector Un-Plugged, but No-Spark w/SPOUT Connected, due to distributor, in a 93 & KOER test won't begin; "...The engine starts to bogg down and then it shudders before it downshifts and smooths out. (example, when rpm’s drop going up an incline it will shudder for a few seconds before the rpm’s increase and it drops out of OD). If I remove the SPOUT the shuddering downshift problems goes away; then, when I replace the SPOUT the shuddering downshift problems comes back; Distributor was causing the problem..." Source: by buck45 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Sixlitre Tune-Up Info (scroll through pages to view more tips, especially on Page 5); "...Yes, stock timing is 10 degrees, I find optimum timing to be almost exactly 13.5 but you can play around until you notice ping and then back off 2 degrees if you want to, and/or tune by vacuum if you care to. Cheapest Autolites money can buy, nuthin' platinum, nuthin' fancy, just set out to .055 gap..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB Symbols in Wiring Diagrams Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Thick Film Ignition (TFI), Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Top Dead Center (TDC) Determination Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Top Dead Center (TDC); "...Remove the #1 spark plug (pass-side front) Get a long-handled ratchet and socket set up on the crankshaft bolt. Cover the spark plug hole with a finger and begin rotating the crankshaft clock-wise. As you begin to feel pressure under your finger, you now know that he #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke, and that hte spark plug will fire just before TDC. Now look at the timing marks on the crankshaft damper and align the 0/TDC mark with the pointer. Remove your distributor cap. The rotor should now be pointing at he terminal for #1 cylinder. Mark the cap extension on the outside inline with where the rotor is pointing. Check to see if the terminal on the cap lines up with this mark. If not, loosen and rotate the distributor a little until a terminal lines up with the rotor. This terminal will be where your #1 spark plug cable goes. As your 302 SHOULD use the later firing order, start with that order installing the wires counter-clockwise (ccw.) Reinstall all previously removed components. BE SURE TO REMOVE THE RATCHET FROM THE CRANKSHAFT!! Start the engine. It should now run fairly smoothly. If not, double check your firing order and direction. It's very easy to mix-up the wires fro the pass-side of the engine due to the intake upper manifold.." Source: by Mr. G at FSB Tuning Tips; mostly for vacuum advance distributors, except; "...If your vacuum canister isn't adjustable, get one aftermarket, your mileage jump will pay for it. Better have good plug wires and gap plugs to Ford or MSD specs..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net V REST on 78/79 & early 80s is a Vacuum Restictor/Delay Valve, it delays vacuum for a certain amount of time. On most engines a vacuum line from the carburetor base runs to a T & then to V REST to the distributor; READ MORE Source: by miesk5 at FSB Vacuum Advance Modules, M-block (351M/400) Overview, Calibration ID codes, Ford Part Numbers Source: by Bubba (Dave R) at earthlink.net via web.archive.org Vacuum and Vent Control Valve Depiction; This is a combination vent valve and spark delay valve. This valve vents vacuum from the distributor diaphragm in idle or wide open throttle and delays vacuum advance during light acceleration to help improve exhaust emissions. - 80.6 MB pdf Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com Vacuum Control Check Valve Depiction; This is a vacuum check type valve that blocks air flow in one direction and allows free air flow in the other direction. This valve may be used from the distributor to the vacuum source. - 80.6 MB pdf Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com Vacuum Line Acronyms & Color Codes; Yellow = Distributor advance Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) & Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at FSB Vacuum Vent Kit Installation, MSD; for a GM, but neat! Source: by MSD via jegs.com Waveforms, PIP, SPOUT, IDM in Push Start & CCD, Page 122 in Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; Scroll Down on First Page, Click on each Section, then on next page, click on the pdf file; the complete book is over 85MB pdf and can be downloaded @ http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Book.pdf Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru Wiring Diagram & Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96 (Sealed Bowl) Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in 78 Bronco & 76-78 F Series Source: by Blue79 at photobucket.com Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM Source: by Mikey350 at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in a 95 Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150 Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB Wiring Diagram in an 83 - see diagram #3 Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Wiring Diagram in an 84 Source: by toddcomputer.com Wiring Diagram in an 86 Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in an 86 & Ford truck Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78 Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as Distributor, etc. Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com