Home Bronco TSB Summaries Recent Updates Gallery Submit A Link Unique Visitors: 376310	FORD BRONCO -> IGNITION; plugs/wires, distributors, MSD, firing orders; switch & ignition actuator rod, TSBs... -> Switch & Ignition Actuator Rod & TSBs WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 29,162 LINKs! This is a Ford Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner. Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars Select A Category: Actuator Rod Ignition Switch - Non-Mating Condition between 14401 Harness Asssembly & Ignition Switch - Vehicles Built after 5/20/94 - Service Tip TSB 94-19-7 for 94 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Ranger, Explorer & many others Ignition Switch Key Hard to Turn in Cold (in Non-Tilt) TSB 95-23-12 for 89-91 Bronco, F Series, Econoline & Medium, Heavy Duty trucks Instrument Custer Warning Light(s) May be dimly Lit or there may be a Malfunction of the four Pin Low Oil Relay on Vehicles so Equipped. This could be due to the Ignition Switch; TSB for 83-91 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Ranger, Explorer & many others Key Replacement, Door, Ignition, etc. TSB 99-24-2 for 96 Bronco & F Series & Many Others Recall, Ignition KEYS ATTACHED TO THE KEY RING OF AN IGNITION KEY WHILE IT IS IN THE VEHICLE IGNITION CAN BECOME LODGED IN THE STEERING LOCK RECEIVER AS THE STEERING WHEEL IS BEING TURNED 93V066000 for 91 Bronco Recall, Ignition Switch FSA 95S28 for 88-91 Bronco & F Series & many others Select A Link: Actuator Rod & Switch Operation Overvew; "...The actuator rod on tilt columns is a culprit. The key turns a rod via a rack. The rod goes over the pin sticking out of the rod pictured above. That part wraps up over the column where yet another rod goes into it that travels down the top of the column to a remote mounted switch block. This block actually makes contact. The Aluminum piece above breaks and you no longer can push that rod. The longer straight section going to the top right of that picture is there only for the ignition lock (that little lever under the column you need to use to get your key back)... read more Source: by shift1313 (Matt) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Chime/Buzzer System Symptom Chart & Pin-Point Testing in a 96 from Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Credit Card Key pics Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Dash Harness pic in a 96 F 150; "...some connectors have been removed..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Fires: ignition switch could experience an internal short circuit which can cause overheating, smoke, and fire in the steering column area in 88-93 Source: by safetyforum.com Fusible Link at Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram in an 86 Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 85; "...Check the ignition switch. It is either out of adjustment or needs to be replaced..." Source: by all-parts.com Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 85; and need to shake the wheel to get the truck to start, how do i remove it?; "...There was a recall on the ing switch but i think it only went back to 1988,that could be your problem,lower column and check,there is also a rod that runs from the key switch to the ing switch,that rod is prone to breaking,remove steering wheel and take off horn assembly and remove steering wheel,you will see what to do from there..." Source: by all-parts.com Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 86. Also, the shifter seems to be stuck in Park; "...The part that broke is called the rack actuator. I have enclosed a picture of it for your reference. To replace it, the upper portion of the column needs to be disassembled. If you are comfortable doing that, you will need to remove the following parts to gain access..." read more Source: by Douglas G at en.allexperts.com Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 87; all of the accessories come on but there is no action by the starter also even with the key on I can not shift the truck out of park; "...The lock cylinder that you replaced is connected by linkage to a electrical ignition switch on your steering column. This switch is known to come apart. It is plastic mounted to a metal base with small tabs that hold it together. If you replace the switch it should solve your problem..." Source: by all-parts.com Key Replacement; & Ignition, Storage, etc. TSB 99-24-2 for 96 Bronco & F Series & Many Others Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Key Stuck in Park Position; "...This is from da 96 Owners Guide; page 60; "...If the key is stuck in the LOCK position, move the steering wheel left or right until the key turns freely... If your vehicle’s gearshift lever is mounted on the column: 1. Put the gearshift in Park. 2. Set the parking brake fully before removing your foot from the service brake. (This will avoid “binding” or “loading” the park gear if you park on a grade.) 3. Turn the ignition key to LOCK 4. Remove the key; This happens at times on the 96; since it was new; so I do it da Ford way above; good idea too since it ops the parking brake thus avoiding cable/conduit freezes Try "jigglin'" the strg wheel a bit while gently trying the key; if a no-go... You may need to jack-up the front tires..." Source: by miesk5 at FSB Key-in-Ignition Warning Chime/Buzzer System Module Removal & Installation in a 96 from Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Key-in-Ignition Warning Overview in a 96 from Workshop Manual; "...The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the driver's door is open with the key in the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582), and continues to sound until the key is removed or the door is closed. When the key is in the ignition switch lock cylinder, the key-in-ignition switch is closed and ground is supplied to the warning chime/buzzer module through Circuit 158 (BK/PK). When the driver's door is open, the driver's door lamp switch (13713) is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK)..." Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Key-in-Ignition Warning Switch Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 88-91 Non-Tilt Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Kill Switch Wiring Diagrams; "...The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective. "ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder & Switch Location in Parts-Break-Out Diagram in a 96 Tilt w/out Nomenclature Source: by steeringcolumnservices.com Lock Cylinder & Switch Location in Parts-Break-Out Diagrams w/out Nomenclature Source: by steeringcolumnservices.com Lock Cylinder & Switch Location in Parts-Break-Out Diagrams w/out Nomenclature Source: by steeringcolumnservices.com Lock Cylinder & Switch Replacement & Depictions in 87-91 (figure 1) (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Lock Cylinder & Switch Replacement in 88-91 Non-Tilt; "...the key must be in RUN..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Adjustment & Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in an 83; "...The following proceedure is from the 1983 Ford Service manual, with a few minor wording changes, but should work for any year. Also included are a couple of illustrations from the same proceedure to help you visualize it..." Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Lock Cylinder Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 80-91 Tilt w/Nomenclature Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Rekeying in a 92 Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at FSB Lock Cylinder Rekeying in a 92 Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at bucknakedoffroad.com Lock Cylinder Rekeying pics in a 92 Source: by amtarsha (Sotally Tober) at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Release Pin pic in an 85 Source: by JDApollo (John A) at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Removal & Parts Break-Out Diagram in 80-91 Tilt; "...the key must be in RUN..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any “normal” resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..." Source: by KC200787 at FSB Lock Cylinder Removal in a 96; "...You'll need to remove the ignition tumbler, while pushing on the release bearing turn the key to the run position, this will release the tumbler and it will slide right out..." Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at FSB Lock Cylinder Removal in a 96; "...You'll need to remove the ignition tumbler, while pushing on the release bearing turn the key to the run position, this will release the tumbler and it will slide right out..." Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at 4x4 Preservation Lock Cylinder Removal pics in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any “normal” resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position..." Source: by KC200787 at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Replacement & Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96; "...Align pin from ignition switch with slot in lock/column assembly. Position slot in lock/column assembly with index mark on casting. Ignition switch should be in RUN position..." READ MUCH MORE; includes TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Replacement in a 94 (from Bronco, F-Super Duty Chassis Manual); "...To install ignition cylinder use steps 1-6 on the left column...) Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) at FSB Lock Cylinder Replacement in a 94 (from Bronco, F-Super Duty Chassis Manual); "...To install ignition cylinder use steps 1-6 on the left column...) Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) at SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Replacement in an 80 Bronco, F & E Series; part of column R&R, 11.2 MB pdf file Source: by broncohq.com Lock Cylinder Replacement in an 85 Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at chrisb.users.SuperMotors.net Lock Cylinder Replacement, Functional in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...NOTE: The following procedure applies to vehicles that have functional lock cylinders and keys. If key numbers are known, the proper key can be made. Removal; Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Turn lock cylinder key to RUN position. Place a 3.17mm (1/8-inch) diameter wire pin or small drift punch in hole in steering column shroud (3530) under ignition switch lock cylinder (11582). Depress retaining pin while pulling out on ignition switch lock cylinder to remove it from housing of steering column. Installation; Install ignition switch lock cylinder by turning it to RUN position and depressing retaining pin. Insert ignition switch lock cylinder into steering column housing. Make sureignition switch lock cylinder is fully seated and aligned in interlocking washer before turning key to OFF position. This will permit retaining pin of ignition switch lock cylinder to extend into hole of steering column. Rotate ignition switch lock cylinder, using key, to make sure of correct mechanical operation in all positions. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more for the powertrain control module to relearn the strategy. Connect battery ground cable..." Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Lock Cylinder Replacement, Non-Functional in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...NOTE: The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition lock is inoperative and the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or broken key, unknown key number, or a cap that has been damaged or broken to the extent that the lock cylinder cannot be rotated. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Remove steering wheel (3600). Using channel lock pliers or vise grip pliers, twist cap until it separates from the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582). Using a 3/8-inch diameter drill, drill down middle of ignition lock key slot approximately 44mm (1-3/4 inch) until ignition switch lock cylinder breaks loose from breakaway base of ignition switch lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch lock cylinder and drill shavings from lock cylinder housing. Remove retainer, bearing and gear. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings and other foreign materials from casting. Carefully inspect lock cylinder housing for damage from the above operation. If damage is apparent, lock cylinder housing must be replaced. Installation Replace lock cylinder housing, if damaged. Install gear, bearing and retainer. Install trim and electrical parts. Install new ignition switch lock cylinder. Install steering wheel. NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more for the powertrain control module to relearn the strategy. Connect battery ground cable. Check operation of lock cylinder..." Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Lock Cylinder Replacement; "...That pin isn't the ONLY thing holding the lock cylinder in place. The tip of the cylinder that actually works the gear is also keyed, and fits thru a slot in a retaining washer (3E700). If the cylinder isn't in the RUN position, the keyed end is captive in the washer and won't pull out because of the snap ring (3C610). The correct way (and I've done this a few times) is to drill out the key SLOT with a ~5/16" bit; once at each side of the slot so you destroy both sets of wafers & springs. (It helps to break off the chromed bezel first). After they're gone, the cylinder will turn to RUN, and you can press the little button (like normal), releasing the cylinder from the column without ever drilling near something you're NOT gonna replace anyway.Elmo's suggestion assumes you break the keyed end of the cylinder off (not easy or likely) and then rip out the washer & snap ring. There's no need for that kind of destruction. You might as well just replace the column now & save yourself the drilling & fighting..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Lock Cylinder Replacement; "...turn the key to ACC, use a paper clip and push through the small hole in the steering column under the lock cylinder till you feel the pin inside sink a bit, then turn the key to RUN (try the "off but unlocked" position if "run" don't work out), and pull the whole cylinder out. Install the new one in a reverse manner, it may not wanna slide in all the way the first time, and may take a bit of wiggling the key front-back till everything lines up. New lock cylinder with keys is like $12 from AutoZone..." Source: by M.L.S.C. at FSB No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com No Start in an 86; "...He turned the key onto crank(nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD(with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch(it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die)..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB No Start Troubleshooting, EFI; for a Mustang but many tips are applicable Source: by jrichker via Seijirou at FSB No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)/Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or NSS/MLPS with an AOD/E4OD, to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground or a bad starter. Check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS/MLPS) Or clutch safety switch. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ /gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper; MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}. Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB No Start Troubleshooting; "...If you can't start the Bronco from the key/cylinder it might be the "upper ignition actuator" has broken in it's track inside the steering wheel OR could be just the key cylinder itself which "pops out" if you look right under it on the metal column collar, there's a little slot and with the key turned to RUN -engine off push up inside with an appropriate tool and comes right out. You can either jump start the vehicle from the "starter relay" under the hood, right inside fender area or pull off the "black plastic cosmetic column shroud" exposing a long 'ROD" and with the key turned to RUN using a set of pliers, drive the ROD downward/forward and the vehicle will start with most key functions intact....i.e, RUN/NO START, OFF/LOCK, AUX..." Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB No Start; & Relay Connection pic in 92-96; "...The relay trigger wire (LG/R) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N. The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter. 130A & heavier alternators use 2 fusible link wires. The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96 Tilt w/Nomenclature; "...This is actually a CV diagram, but similar; Items #26 & 34 are known to get loose; #28 is known to wear. Items #19 & 25 are known to break, and Ford offers upgraded versions..." To align the shifter, shift lever, & shift indicator read Steve's Shift Cable Adjustment for 92-96; Miesk5 NOTE, as Sackman wrote; Pop your head underneath the column & move the shifter arm up and down. There is a ring underneath with two torx screws that commonly come loose. You'll probably see them when moving the shifter. Tighten those up, I'm sure that's at least part of the problem. Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Parts Break-Out Diagram, Partial in 80-91 Tilt; part of TSB 95-23-12 Non-Tilt Key Hard to Turn in Cold Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Push Button Start Installation in a 93 Source: by Destructive Mechanic at FSB Recall, Ignition Switch FSA 95S28 for 88-91 Bronco & F Series & many others Source: by Ford via Chilton Recall, Ignition Switch, Short Circuit Defect info for 88-92 Fords On April 25, 1996 Ford Motor Company announced the recall of approximately nine million cars, trucks and minivans that may be equipped with a faulty ignition switch that may be responsible for causing hundreds of fires. In no case has any death or serious injury resulted from these fires. The recall covers 1988-93 models sold in both the U.S. and Canada that Ford says, "In a very small number of vehilces, the ignition switch could cause an internal short circuit, creating the potential for overheating, smoke and possibly fire in the steering column of the vehicle." The faulty ignitions switches can cause a short circuit that may lead to a fire whether the vehicle is turned on or off. Source: by AUTOPEDIA™ Recall, Ignition Switch, Short Circuit Defect info for 90 52539; Recall Summary THE IGNITION SWITCH COULD EXPERIENCE AN INTERNAL SHORT CIRCUIT. Consequence THIS CONDITION COULD CAUSE OVERHEATING, SMOKE, AND POSSIBLY FIRE IN THE STEERING COLUMN AREA OF THE VEHICLE. Remedy DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH.; miesk5 NOTE; this site will not let you use your browser's Back Button to return to this page; open it a new window Source: by internetautoguide.com Removal & Installation (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section Source: by Chilton via Autozone Starting System Wiring Diagram in a 96, Page 01 Source: by Ford via Chilton Starting System Wiring Diagram in a 96, Page 02 Source: by Ford via Chilton Switch - Non-Mating Condition between 14401 Harness Asssembly & Ignition Switch - Vehicles Built after 5/20/94 - Service Tip TSB 94-19-7 for 94 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Ranger, Explorer & many others; "...Some vehicles may need re-work of the 14401 wiring harness. While attaching the harness connector to the ignition switch, a non-mating condition may occur. This is due to a design revision (larger tower on switch) of the ignition switch, and not having the proper spacer to clear the switch tower. While re-working any 14401 harness (on affected vehicles built after 5/20/94), determine if the correct spacer (F4TB-14A468-CA) is attached to the ignition switch connector. The correct spacer will allow the "old" or "new" 14A464 connector to mate with the ignition switch assemblies F2DC-11572-AA or F4DC-11572-AA. Refer to the following service procedures. Locate connector assembly F4TB-14A464-AYA or F2TB-14A464-VA and inspect to determine if spacer F4TB-14A468-CA (Service Number F4PZ-14A468-A) is attached (Figure 1). THE SPACER IS GRAY AND THE PART NUMBER IS EMBOSSED ON THE FACE OF THE SPACER. If spacer F2TB-14A468-HA is being used, please discard by prying off. Snap on the "new" spacer F4TB-14A468-CA (Service Number F4PZ-14A468-A). PART NUMBER F4PZ-14A468-A, PART NAME Spacer Wire Connection (Pk/5), CLASS A..." Source: by Ford via mustangforums.com Switch Adjustment in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Adjustment in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...NOTE: A new replacement ignition switch (11572) assembly will be set in the RUN position as received. Adjust the ignition switch by sliding the carrier to the RUN position. Make sure the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) is in the RUN position. The RUN position is achieved by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder approximately 90 degrees from the LOCK position. Install the ignition switch into the column actuator hole. It may be necessary to move the ignition switch back and forth slightly to align the ignition switch mounting holes with the lock cylinder housing threaded holes. Install retaining screws. Tighten to 6-8 Nm (53-71 lb-in). Connect the electrical connector to the ignition switch. Tighten lock screw to 0.8-1.3 Nm (7-11.5 lb-in). Connect battery ground cable (14301). Check ignition switch for proper function, including START and ACC positions. Also, make sure the column is in the LOCK position..." Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Switch Adjustment in an 83; "...The following proceedure is from the 1983 Ford Service manual, with a few minor wording changes, but should work for any year. Also included are a couple of illustrations from the same proceedure to help you visualize it. Remove the electrical connector from the ignition switch. Rotate the key back and forth to either side of LOCK, until a 5/64 in. drill bit can be inserted through the locking pin hole as far as possible (minimum 3/8 inch). The lock pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube. Loosen the two ignition switch mounting nuts. Turn the key to LOCK (feel for detent) and remove the key. move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-positionof rod lash and tighten the mounting nuts. Remove the drill bit from the ignition switch lock pin hole. Plug in the electrical connector and operate the lock cylinder to insure the switch is positioned properly. Confirm that all accessories are deactivated with key on the OFF position, and that all accessories are operable in RUN position..." See Diagrams Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Adjustment, Removal & Installation in an 80 Bronco, F & E Series; part of column R&R, 11.2 MB pdf file Source: by broncohq.com Switch Connector Location Behind Dash in a 90 Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net Switch Location (Ignition Switch) in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Location (see 11572) in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 91-96 "...is used in just about everything Ford made from ~'91-up. The only difference is tilt or not. Everything else bolts on (airbag, brake/shift interlock, vacuum brake release, etc..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Switch Location (see 11572) in Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 83 Tilt w/out Nomenclature Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Switch Location (see 11572) in Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 83 Tilt w/out Nomenclature Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at chrisb.users.superford.org Switch Location (see 56 Ignition Switch 11572) in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96 Tilt w/Nomenclature; "...This is actually a CV diagram, but similar; Items #26 & 34 are known to get loose; #28 is known to wear. Items #19 & 25 are known to break, and Ford offers upgraded versions..." To align the shifter, shift lever, & shift indicator read Steve's Shift Cable Adjustment for 92-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Switch Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 83 Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in 80-91 & 92-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing in an 83 Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Pin-Out Diagram in a 95 Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at chrisb.users.SuperMotors.net Switch Pin-Out Diagrams, early & late models Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB Switch Pin-Out Diagrams, early & late models Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection Switch Removal & Installation in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Removal & Installation in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty, F-Super Duty Motorhome and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Removal; Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Remove the upper steering column shroud (3530) by removing the self-tapping screws. Remove four bolts retaining lower steering column shroud and remove lower steering column shroud. Remove lock screw and disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector. Rotate the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) to the RUN position. Remove the two screws retaining ignition switch (11572). Disengage the ignition switch from the actuator. Installation; NOTE: A new replacement ignition switch assembly will be set in the RUN position as received. Adjust the ignition switch by sliding the carrier to the RUN position. Make sure the ignition switch lock cylinder is in the RUN position. The RUN position is achieved by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder approximately 90 degrees from the LOCK position. Install the ignition switch into the column actuator hole. It may be necessary to move the ignition switch back and forth slightly to align the ignition switch mounting holes with the lock cylinder housing threaded holes. Install retaining screws. Tighten to 6-8 Nm (53-71 lb-in). Connect the electrical connector to the ignition switch. Tighten lock screw to 0.8-1.3 Nm (7-11.5 lb-in). Connect battery ground cable. Check ignition switch for proper function, including START and ACC positions. Also, make certain that the column is in the LOCK position. Install the upper steering column shroud and lower steering column shroud..." Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Switch Removal in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any “normal” resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position. The rest is pretty simple though. All reverse of installation..." Source: by KC200787 at FSB Switch Removal pics in a 95 w/Tilt; "...Symptoms of the problem before tearing into the steering column was that I could start the truck, but not shut it off. The key was easily turned without any “normal” resistance/spring to it and all accessories had power with the key in any position..." Source: by KC200787 at SuperMotors.net Switch Removal Video in 66-77 Bronco Source: by Wild Horses wildhorses4x4.com Switch Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell) Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net Switch Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "NOTE: Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay with the key on will cause the TFI-IV ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will not correct the timing. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle for adjusting base timing." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Switch Wiring Diagram in a 78 Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Wiring Diagram in an 89 Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Symbols in Wiring Diagrams Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Thick Film Ignition (TFI), Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Troubleshooting in 87-91 (figure 2) (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Warning Chime/Buzzer System; Key-in-Ignition, Fasten Safety Belt & Headlamp-On Warning Wiring Diagram in a 96 from Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Wire Color Code Abbreviation Chart; see post #4; BK Black, BL Blue, BR Brown, DB Dark Blue, DG Dark Green, GN Green, GY Grey, LB Light Blue, LG Light Green, N Natural, O Orange, P Purple, PK Pink, R Red, T Tan, V Violet, W White, Y Yellow Source: by miesk5 at FSB Wiring Diagram in 78 Bronco & 76-78 F Series Source: by Blue79 at photobucket.com Wiring Diagram in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Wiring Diagram in a 79 Source: by Chilton Wiring Diagram in a 95 (see #1) Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150 Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB Wiring Diagram in an 83 see #6 & page 3 for starter relay Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Wiring Diagram in an 84 (diagram #3) Source: by toddcomputer.com Wiring Diagram in an 86 Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram, Haynes for a 78 Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagrams (Partial, Bronco similar) for F 150 in 86, 89, 91 & 95; EEC, Start/Ignition, EFI/Fuel System, Emissions, E4OD, AOD/C6 (+ clutch interlock switch), etc. from Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com Wiring Diagrams in an 89 Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as ignition, etc. Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com