Contact Me @ FSB or Bronco Zone Forums Home Bronco TSB Summaries Recent Updates Unique Visitors: 68841	FORD BRONCO -> ELECTRICAL; EEC/PCM, Self-Test, wiring diagrams... WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 30,000 LINKs! This is a 4x4 Big Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner. Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars Select A Category: Electronic Engine Control (EEC); SELF TEST & Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC), OBD II, etc. Air Bag - WARNING; Read all Safety Info; Such as, remove a battery terminal (Remove both) then wait 30 minutes before attempting any work on the airbag circuits; I have found a few vehicles that had an aftermarket component in it that had a 12v DC or higher re-chargeable battery Alarm Anti-Theft System Block Heater Bulb Chime/Buzzer Warning System; Key-in-Ignition, Fasten Safety Belt & Headlamp-On Cigar Lighter, Ashtray Lamp Clear Corner Clock, Digital Electronic Compass & Outside Temperature Cruise (Speed) Control Diode & Identification & Service Replacements TSB 96-24-6 for 84-97 F Series & Econoline, 84-90 Bronco II, 86-97 Aerostar & many others; Bronco is not Listed, but TSB applies Driveability TSB 89-12-09 for 84-89 351HO Econoline & F Series Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Partial, Bronco and Ford Truck Electronic Modules, Protection From Damage by Static Electricity TSB 88-13-3 for All Light Truck Lines, etc. Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993 by Charles O. Probst Fuse & Circuit Breaker Fuse Block Fusible Link General Information Ground Head Light, Electrical Links; See Body; Bronco & Ford Trucks, Head Light Section for Mechanical Oriented Links) Horn, Stock & Air Light - Park, Brake & Turn, Courtesy, Dome, Fog, Rock, Under-Hood, etc. Locations to route new wiring, tubing for gauges, etc. Mirror, Outside Flag-Mount w/Turn Signal Mirror, Outside, Power Mirror, Rear View (Electrochromatic) & Vanity Power Distribution Box Power Door Lock Power Point Power Window Rear Window Defroster; SEE LINKS in BODY; TAILGATE & wiring; Bronco & Ford Trucks; Tailgate Section Relay Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) Rotating Electrical (Starters, Alternators, Window & Wiper Motors, etc.), Wire & Cable, Windshield Washer Pumps, Wiring Harness Accessories, etc. Parts Catalog, Ford Seat Heater SENSORS - Air Cleaner Temperature Sensor (ACTS); Crankshaft Position (CPS)/ Misfire Detection (MD); Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Speed Sensor (Located in Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift Transfer Case); Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), Idle Air Control (IAC) also called, Idle Air Bypass (IAB), Idle Speed Control (ISC), Throttle Bypass Air, Idle Bypass, Inlet Air Controller, Inlet Air Bypass, etc.; Inferred Mileage Sensor (IMS); Intake Air Temp (IAT), (Air Charge Temperature [ACT] prior to 1992; Knock Sensor (KS); Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP); Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR); Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Park/Neutral Position (PNP) & Back-Up Switch); Throttle Position Sensor (TPS); Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS); also called RABS Sensor & Differential Speed Sensor (DSS), etc. Short Circuits Splice Starter Switch Trailer: Connector, Harness, Relay Box & Wiring Welder Windshield Washer Windshield Wiper Wire & Cable, Connector, Harness, Ford Wiring Pigtails Buyers Guide & Parts Catalog, Wire Harness Terminal Repair Kit & Wire Splice Procedure TSB, Terminal Grease TSB Wiring Diagrams Select A Link: Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch. Refer to Ignition Switch in the Adjustments portion of this section. Source: by thedieselstop.com Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; Scroll Down on First Page, Click on each Section, then on next page, click on the pdf file; the complete book is over 85MB pdf and can be downloaded @ http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Book.pdf Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru "...SLOW cranking is battery, terminals, cables, relay, or starter. LONG cranking is compression, vacuum, fuel, oil pressure, or ignition..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB Basic Electrical Diagnosis Training Course Source: by Ford Bulb, Fuse, & Wire Current Specs Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Chilton Manual for 66-81 Bronco, Scanned Copy Source: by Chilton via broncocity.com Diagnosis & Troubleshooting, Chapter 10, from Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993 Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru EEC IV Break-Out Box (BOB) Overview; miesk5 Note, Disconnect EEC. Without a Break-Out Box (BOB) go to the EEC CONNECTOR's pin(s) instead Source: by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed B) at FSB EEC IV Break-Out Box (BOB) Value Work Sheet Source: by merkurencyclopedia.com EEC IV Monitor & Recorder Overview Source: by thedieselstop.com EEC IV Pin-Outs (Partial) in 88-89 & 90-91 Bronco 4.9; 88-90, 91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.0; 88-91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.8; Looking Into Harness Connectors in Ford Electronic Engine Control Overview, Chapter 12, of Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993 Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru EEC-IV SELF TEST COMPREHENSIVE & Connector Location, Bronco & Ford; & Much More Source: by thedieselstop.com Electrical Grease, Lubricates & protects electrical connectors; see TSB 98-24-6 New Electrical Terminal Grease; Provides a non-corrosive film for electrical switches and contacts. Protects connector metals from oxidation and corrosion; XG-12; Specification Number WSB-M1C239-A, 3 oz. CAUTION: ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR GREASE SHOULD NOT BE USED IN HIGH VOLTAGE CONNECTIONS FOR SPARK PLUG AND COIL WIRE APPLICATIONS & Low Current Flow Switches (12V Systems less than 0.1 amp). Source: by miesk5 at FSB Electrical Symbols in an 86 from Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Partial Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at telus.net Electronic System Diagnosis Training Course; Part 2 Source: by Ford Intermittents, Diagnosing in a 94 Source: by thedieselstop.com National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) Study Guide Source: by freeasestudyguides.com No Crank Condition; with key off; turn headlight on; are they ON? Does Horn work (assuming it has worked recently)? Check Alternator Belt &the tensioner; Headlights are white and bright --- This means the battery has 12 volts or so but it does not tell us if the battery is capable of providing the amps necessary to turn the starter over. First quickly touch each battery cable connection at the battery. If either one is warm to the touch, that indicates a bad connection. Wiggle, push and pull the battery cables back and forth and see if the headlights come on white and bright. If the headlights come back on and as you hold the cable to one side or another, have someone try and start the car. More than likely, it will start. Work towards white and bright headlights first. Even if you can't get the headlights to shine white and bright by wiggling the cables or ends, then you might next try to jump start your dead battery.If the starter is bad and you hit it with a hammer a couple of times..." Source: by Mark S at Salem Boys Auto salemboysauto.com No Crank, No Start, Stops Running, Backfires, Hesitation, Misfires, Knocks or Rattles, Poor Fuel Economy, Idle Problems, or Shifting Problems Diagnostic Worksheet Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net No Crank, No Start/Normal Crank; Hard Start/Long Crank; Stalls After Start, Stalls or Quits on Idle; Rolling Idle, Rough Idle; Fast Idle, Diesels; Low Idle Stalls or Quits on Deacceleration; Stalls/Quits on Acceleration or Cruise, Bucks/Jerks, Hesitates/Stumbles, Surges; Runs Rough on Acceleration or Cruise, Misses; Backfires; Surges on Cruise; Lack/Loss of Power; Poor Fuel Economy; Spark Knock Diagnosis & Troubleshooting, Chapter 10, from Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; starts at page 211 & shows what components to check first and Self Test procedure Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru No Crank; "...For an engine-won't-crank condition with an automatic transmission (7003), determine if the condition exists with the shift control selector level in both PARK and NEUTRAL positions before performing the ignition switch continuity tests. If the no-crank condition occurs in one shift lever position but not the other, a more probable cause is the Manual Lever Position (MLPS) located on driver's side of transmission case. Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in a 96; Disconnect ignition key warning switch terminal and wire from the ignition switch (11572). Test the continuity of the ignition switch as described in the following illustrations. Connect a self-powered test lamp or ohmmeter between the blade terminals indicated on the chart. No continuity between any blade and chassis ground should exist in any ignition switch position except the proof Circuit 41 (BK/LB) (Pin P1) and Circuit 512 (T/LG) (Pin P2) in the START position only. NOTE: Ignition Switch Mechanical Test: Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch. Refer to Ignition Switch in the Adjustments portion of this section. Do not apply lubricant to the inside of the ignition switch. Test the steering column ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following: burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder; binding ignition switch lock cylinder; shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder; burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder; insufficient lube on actuator; binding ignition switch..." Source: by thedieselstop.com No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Black, Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD), Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); SEE site for diagrams Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com No Start in 92-96; Starter Relay; "...To test it, bypass it by briding the 2 large posts.If the starter doesn't work, diagnose the starter. If the starter works as it should, but doesn't work using the key, bridge from the rear post (the one with the LARGER cable) to the small (S) post. If the starter works, the relay is good and the fault is between the ignition switch & the relay (clutch switch or neutral switch). If not, the fault is at the relay. If the relay didn't click, either it's not grounded, or its coil is burned out. If it did, its contacts are corroded as the top R pic shows..." Miesk5 Note, check to see if Relay is secure to inner fender or there is rust or grime between inner fender and relay body) Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net No Start in an 86; "...He turned the key onto crank(nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD(with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. He told me yes the switches die but they can also walk up the column and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch(it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die)..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB No Start Troubleshooting & Coil Test in a 92; Starter Cranks Engine, but Engine Doesn't Start; see diagrams 4 & 5. Possible Causes: No voltage at TFI Module or Distributor; Bad TFI Module Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums No Start Troubleshooting but Starter Cranks Engine Testing, General; "...Misdiagnosis is the leading cause of fuel pump returns. If the engine runs but displays driveability symptoms that you suspect are fuelrelated (hard starting, hesitation, misfiring, power loss), first attempt to eliminate other possible causes of the problem. Make sure the engine is in good mechanical condition. An engine may not start or run properly for many reasons. BE SURE TO CHECK: Fuel in the vehicle tank is adequate (add 2 to 3 gallons as needed). Fuel is fresh and of good quality. Fuel system has no leaks. Fuel filter has been replaced. Fuel delivery electrical system checks OK. Engine mechanical systems check OK. Engine electrical system checks OK. Ignition system checks OK. Charging system checks OK. Battery voltage is at least 12.4 volts. Cranking voltage at the starter is at least 9.6 volts. Inertia switch is reset (typical of Ford applications). Oil pressure and RPM signals are present (various applications). THE MOST COMMON REASONS FOR REPEAT FUEL PUMP FAILURE ARE: Misdiagnosis: Pump is OK, fault lies elsewhere! Not measuring fuel volume. Not replacing fuel filter and strainer(s). Fuel contamination. Not properly cleaning and flushing inside of fuel tank. Not correcting vehicle electrical connector, wiring and ground issues. Not resetting a tripped inertia switch. Not checking for oil pressure and RPM signals..." Source: by Airtex No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)/Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or NSS/MLPS with an AOD/E4OD, to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground or a bad starter. Check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS/MLPS) Or clutch safety switch. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ /gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper; MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}. Hopefully it could be a dead cell in da battery. Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB No Start Troubleshooting; "...If you can't start the Bronco from the key/cylinder it might be the upper ignition actuator has broken in it's track inside the steering wheel OR could be just the key cylinder itself which pops out if you look right under it on the metal column collar, there's a little slot and with the key turned to RUN -engine off push up inside with an appropriate tool and comes right out. You can either jump start the vehicle from the starter relay under the hood, right inside fender area or pull off the black plastic cosmetic column shroud exposing a long ROD and with the key turned to RUN using a set of pliers, drive the ROD downward/forward and the vehicle will start with most key functions intact....i.e, RUN/NO START, OFF/LOCK, AUX..." Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB No Start, but Cranks and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams; "...This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Parasitic Current Drain Test in a 96; "... Typically, a drain of approximately one amp can be attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp, or luggage compartment lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts may be located by selectively pulling fuses or disconnecting fuse links to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the test lamp will go out or the meter reading will fall to an acceptable level. If the short is still not located, after checking all the fuses and fuse links, the drain may be due to the generator. The current reading (current drain) should be less than 0.05 amps. If it exceeds 0.05 amps it indicates a constant current drain which could cause a discharged battery. Possible sources of current drain are vehicle lamps (underhood, glove compartment, luggage compartment, etc.) that do not shut off properly. If the drain is not caused by a vehicle lamp, remove the fuses from the interior fuse junction panel, one at a time, until the cause of the drain is located. If drain is still undetermined, remove fuses one at a time at the main fuse junction panel to find the problem circuit. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 mA with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest. Current drains can be tested with the following procedure; DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS TEST ON A LEAD-ACID BATTERY THAT HAS RECENTLY BEEN RECHARGED. Do not crank the engine or operate accessories that draw more than 10A. You could blow the fuse in the meter. Many computers draw 10 mA or more continuously. Use Rotunda 88 Multimeter 105-R0053 or equivalent between the battery positive or negative post and its respective cable. NOTE: Steps 1-5 correspond to the numbers in the following illustration. Insert the test leads in the input terminals shown. Turn switch to mA/A DC. Disconnect battery terminal and touch probes as shown. Isolate circuit causing current drain by pulling out one fuse after another while reading the display. Current reading will drop when the fuse on the bad circuit is pulled. Reinstall fuse and test components (including connectors) of that circuit to find defective component(s)..." READ MORE Source: by miesk5 at FSB Parasitic Current Drain Test; "...you should be able to trace the "parasitic draw" on the battery in the normal way. Pull the (-) cable off & put an ammeter inline set to the 10A range (or higher if possible) to see how much current is being pulled out of the battery with the key OFF, the doors SHUT, & the hood light bulb REMOVED. Make sure absolutely NOTHING is turned on anywhere on the truck. If it registers 0 or below the meter's next range, switch it down a range until it shows some useful numbers. If it ends up being below 0.5A (500mA), then replace the battery. If it's above that, start by disconnecting all the alternator wires & see if the reading drops under 0.5A. Then move to the fuse block & pull them 1 at a time until there's a significant drop in the reading. That's the circuit that's draining the battery. Follow it to find the problem..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB Repair Locations Grid & Coding, Bronco; used to pin-point location of a repair or component in a vehicle Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code Source: by RepairPal Symbols in Wiring Diagrams Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Temperature Sensor Location Diargam, Outside for all Ford Overhead Consoles, 94-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Testing & Servicing, Chapter 11, from Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993 Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru Troubleshooting with a Test Light (low resistance) Source: by Chris B at blog.rv.net Troubleshooting with a Test Light (low resistance); "...low resistance test light can sometimes be used in place of a blown fuse. The light will illuminate while a short circuit to ground exists. DO NOT use a medium or high resistance test light in place of a blown fuse. These types of test lights illuminate with very small amounts of current and can be misleading..." read more Source: by ocw.weber.edu Wire Color Code Abbreviation Chart in a 79 & F Series; BK Black, BR Brown, DB Dark Blue, DG Dark Green, GY Gray, LB Light Blue, LG Light Green, O Orange, P Purple, PK Pink, R Red, T Tan, V Violet, W White, Y Yellow Source: by Ziggy (topsig) at SuperMotors.net Wire Color Code Abbreviation Chart in a 96 (at least 92-95 is similar; BK Black, BL Blue, BR Brown, DB Dark Blue, DG Dark Green, GN Green, GY Gray, LB Light Blue, LG Light Green, N Natural, O Orange, P Purple, PK Pink, R Red, T Tan, V Violet, W White, Y Yellow; Where two colors are shown for a wire, the first color is the basic color of the wire. The second color is the stripe marking. For example: BR/O is a brown wire with an orange stripe Source: by miesk5 at FSB