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SELF TEST - COMPREHENSIVE & Connector Location pics, Bronco & Ford; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
Source: by BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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"...There are two types of EEC Self-Tests, Key On Engine Off (KOEO) & Key On Engine Running (KOER). While both of these will test for various "hard faults" that are present when the test is run, the processor continuously monitors various operating parameters whenever the engine is running. If the processor detects a problem, it will store a "Continuous Memory" code and light the MIL. These Continuous Memory codes are put out during KOEO Test after any codes associated with hard faults are output. Codes are displayed by flashing the MIL. They are also output as voltage pulses on the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit in the Self-Test connector. In either Self-Test mode, all codes are output twice and in KOEO, the hard fault codes are separated from the Continuous Memory codes by a "separator" pulse. A technician that is unfamiliar with the EEC Self-Test can mistakenly believe that continuous Memory codes are not present when they really are. He may run KOER Self-Test and get a pass code (111) and not realize that KOEO Self-Test must be run to receive any Continuous Memory codes. He may run KOEO Self-Test while counting MIL flashes and misinterpret the repeated hard fault pass code (111) to mean that Continuous Memory does not contain any codes...." READ MORE; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. On all vehicles equipped with a 4.9L engine, the clutch must be depressed during the KOEO Test. On all vehicles equipped with a 7.3L diesel engine, the throttle must be depressed (WOT) during the entire Key On Engine Off Self-Test. Engine ID codes are issued at the beginning of the KOER Test and are one-digit numbers represented by the number of pulses sent out. During KOER; For gasoline engines, the engine ID code is equal to one-half the number of engine cylinders (i.e. 2 pulses = 4 cylinders). For the 7.3L Diesel engine, the ID code = 5. These codes are used to verify the proper PCM is installed and that the Self-Test has been entered. The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine identification code. When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief Wide-Open Throttle (WOT). The dynamic response check is used on some applications to verify operation of the TP, MAF, MAP & KS sensors. On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released. The PSP Switch signals the EEC Module when power steering pressure exceeds 350 psi ±50. The engine then increases idle speed to compensate for the additional load. It appears the PSP switch was deleted from the 94 model year. PSP Switch is screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump(5.0L Only). On vehicles equipped with Brake On/Off (BOO) input (such as E4OD), the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the Brake Lamp Switch. On vehicles equipped with Transmission Control Switch (TCS) such as da E4OD, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS. TCS = Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) on E4OD it is also ref to as the OD on/off LED/Switch @ end of tranny gear stalk. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
Source: by Ford via Miesk5 at broncolinks.com
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Auto Repair Reference Center Repair Manual, Mostly Chilton; many local library's offer free online access for their members; just log-in w/your library Card # and password; incl. all Broncos, & many MAKES! 1951 to 2009; some years (85-96, I believe) include: FULL Technical Service Bulletins and Recalls, Labor Hours per repair (plug in appl info); Wiring Diagrams, Vacuum Diagrams (in DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS Section), Specifications (torques, etc.) & Maintenance Intervals
Source: by arrc.epnet.com
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Check Engine Light (CEL) Overview in 92-96; "...The check engine warning indicator comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning..." read more
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Chilton Manual for 66 - 81 Bronco, Partial, Scanned Copy
Source: by Chilton via broncocity.com
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Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Partial, Bronco for 86; Speed Control, A/C, Heater, Radio
Source: by Ford via Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at telus.net
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Ford Service Disk Installation & Use; Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Ford Service Disk Installation & Use; Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Haynes Wiring Diagrams for 87-89 Bronco & F series
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net
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Repair Guides & Wiring Diagrams (click vehicle, year range) & go to Chassis Electrical & scroll for Wiring Diagrams...(under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
Source: by Chilton via Autozone
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Wiring Diagrams (Partial, Bronco similar) for F 150 in 86, 89, 91 & 95; EEC, Start/Ignition, EFI/Fuel System, Emissions, E4OD, AOD/C6 (+ clutch interlock switch), etc. from Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM)
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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"...The vacuum gauge should show 18-22 in-Hg @ idle, and maintain a steady needle. Rev it up to ~2500 rpm, hold it steady, and you should see the needle drop, then slowly increase to a level close to the idle reading (though slightly lower is normal)..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
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"...The vacuum hoses used in the passenger compartment control circuit are constructed from PVC plastic material. The vacuum hoses used in the engine compartment are constructed of Hytrel. Because of the materials used, the vacuum hoses should never be pinched off during diagnosis to locate a leak. Use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 014-R1054 or equivalent to locate vacuum leaks. A wood golf tee can be used as a plug when it is necessary to plug one end of a vacuum hose for leak test purposes..." from F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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"...Use "Hard (Heavy Duty)" vacuum line for booster. Regular rubber hose such as used for WS washer fluid line will likely collapse after about say, 20 years. Inspect for any sign of kinking or collapse. Check vacuum draw available with a gauge connected between engine and booster. At idle, healthy engines draw somewhere between 17 and 22 in Hg. Check vacuum by depressing brake pedal firmly until it stops. The gauge should read a drop to approximately 10 in. Hg and then quickly recover to a normal reading. If vacuum takes too long to recover, there is a restriction in the volume, i.e.: fitting clogged or vacuum hose collapsed. Repair as necessary. While a defective booster will cause a hard pedal, a spongy or low pedal requires a hydraulic system check..."
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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300 CID, 84-85, Feedback Carbureted Problem Areas; "...This pickup/Bronco application typically suffers from abuse, neglected service and a poorly designed manifold and feedback system. The vehicle will drive tolerably in open loop all the time, suffering from poor driveability and fuel economy (typically in the 8-10 mpg range). Check the mixture control solenoid on the carburetor for a varying duty cycle. A fixed 50 percent duty cycle is the open-loop default value. Check the oxygen sensor for switching (frequency) and amplitude. Verify powers and grounds to the ECU (computer - located inside, above the accelerator pedal). The ECU and 02 sensor grounds are on the firewall in the engine compartment low on the driver's side. Other critical inputs to the computer are the coolant temperature sensor and manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor (frequency-based), which both ground ahead and above the battery on the right inner fender well. Manifold leaks are very common (both intake and exhaust). Check all manifold, carburetor mounting and manifold preheat bolts and gaskets for tightness and leaks (flowing propane around gasket areas makes this fairly simple). The exhaust manifold is a relatively thin casting and can be badly warped, particularly if the vehicle has been heavily loaded, used for towing or driven through deep water. A leaking exhaust manifold will dump raw oxygen on the O2 sensor and can make the feedback system attempt to go rich. Carburetor throttle shaft wear is an area for particular attention. Some of the carburetor screws have a propensity for vibrating loose and having the carb literally disassemble itself in normal use. When rebuilding the carburetor pay careful attention to the reassembly of the accelerator pump components -- the washer goes on top of the diaphragm, not below it. This problem has been seen on several remanufactured carburetors as supplied from the rebuilder. Rejetting should be considered a last resort. Air injection switching (upstream, downstream), exhaust system integrity, and catalyst function are areas of common problems on these trucks as well..."
Source: by aircarecolorado.com
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3mm - 8mm Silicone Vacuum Tubing & Fittings Source
Source: by forgemotorsport.com
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4WABS Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) & Valves Wiring Diagram & Overview; "...The front inlet valves should read 5-8 Ohms each; all other valves should read 3-6 Ohms each. Sensors should read 800-1400 Ohms across the pins, and more than 10 Ohms from the metal shell to either pin. The pump motor sensor should be 5-40 Ohms. The acceleration sensor is a group of switches which should be closed when the truck is stationary & level. When the sensor is tilted ~1" up in the rear, pins 2-3 should go open; when tilted ~1.5" up in the front, pins 1-3 should go open..."; miesk5 Note; for all Resistance tests, battery needs to be disconnected; remove Negative cable at battery
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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4WABS Self Test & Connector Diagram, Component Locations, DTCs, 93-96; USE THIS PROCESS! "...The 4WABS TEST Connector is red; located at the left-hand side (driver's side) of the engine compartment and marked ANTI-LOCK TEST; Light Flash Technique 1. Note: If 12V test light is not available, the amber ABS warning light also flashes during this test. Locate test connector in the engine compartment and install 12V test light between Pins C and E. 2. With the ignition off, jumper Pin E to B. 3. Turn key to RUN position. 4. Remove jumper between Pins E and B after 5 seconds. 5. Count light flashes of test light or amber ABS warning light..." read more
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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4WABS Self Test Connector Location pic in a 93
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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4WABS Self Test Connector pic in a 95 (near driver's side hood hinge)
Source: by s8c2 (the wagon) at SuperMotors.net
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4WABS Troubleshooting; miesk5 Note; for all Resistance tests, battery needs to be disconnected; remove Negative cable at battery
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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4WABS Wiring Diagram in 93-96; miesk5 Note; for all Resistance tests, battery needs to be disconnected; remove Negative cable at battery
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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A/C Switches to Defrost in MAX Mode; "...If MAX A/C only blows out the defrost registers, or if it switches to defrost during hard acceleration, this vacuum line (to the recirculate motor) is the reason. The white plastic is far more susceptible to UV light than any other color, and the gap along the edge of the hood allows it to degrade..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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AC & Heater Vacuum Diagram in 92-96; "...'80-91 similar, except '87-early '88 w/factory air..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Air Bag Wiring Diagram for a 93 Taurus but Similar; includes possible short locations where the HEAVY DARK LINES are in the wiring diagram; read more
Source: by Ford via tbird100636 at fordforums.com
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Air Bag Wiring Diagram, Operation & Troubleshooting for 94-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Air Conditioning & Heater Vacuum Diagram in 92-96; "...80-91 similar, except 87-early 88 w/factory air; The 80-86 vacuum tank is a plastic ball on the R wheelwell..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Air Conditioning & Heater Vacuum Diagram in a 95
Source: by Chilton
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Air Conditioning & Heater Wiring Diagram in a 79 w/AC
Source: by Ranger429 (Trailer Special) at SuperMotors.net
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Air Conditioning Control Diagrams & Overview in 92-96; "...In the OFF position, all doors are in the vacuum-applied position with the exception of the PANEL door. The blower & compressor clutch circuits are not energized. In the MAX A/C position, all vacuum operated doors are in the vacuum position. A/C damper inlet door (19C802) air is shut off and the passenger compartment air is recirculated to maximize cooling. Discharge is through panel register. A/C clutch & blower circuits are energized. In the NORM A/C position, outside air is allowed to enter the passenger compartment. The air passes through the A/C evaporator core (19860) and is cooled before reaching the passenger compartment. Discharge is through panel register. A/C clutch & blower circuits are energized. Ventilation is delivered through the instrument panel registers when the function selector knob in the A/C control (19980) is set in the VENT position. In the VENT position, no vacuum is applied to the OUTSIDE/RECIRC. vacuum control motor (18A318 ) and the door is open to the outside. The air coming in through the cowl is discharged through the panel registers. The blower circuit is energized, but the A/C clutch is not. In the FLOOR position, no vacuum is applied to the vacuum control motor and the OUTSIDE/RECIRC. door is open to the outside. Air is discharged through the heater outlet floor ducts (18C433) with a small amount going to the windshield defroster hose nozzles (18490). The blower circuit is energized, but the A/C clutch is not. In the MIX position, outside air is discharged through the windshield defroster hose nozzles and the heater outlet floor ducts. A/C clutch & blower circuits are energized. In the DEFROST position, outside air is discharged through the windshield defroster hose nozzles with a small amount going to the heater outlet floor ducts. All doors are in the no vacuum position. A/C clutch is engaged in ambient temperatures above approximately 10�C (50�F) & the blower circuit is energized. The PANEL/FLOOR, FLOOR/DEFROST and OUTSIDE/RECIRC doors are vacuum operated. For maximum cooling, the temperature knob should be set in its fully counterclockwise position; the function knob should be in the MAX A/C position; and the blower motor (18527) should be set for a desired rate of airflow. Even though the function knob is on MAX A/C, the temperature knob, being manually controlled, may be set to modify the temperature of the air and the path through which the air flows. Another characteristic of the MAX A/C setting is the increased noise level of the blower motor. Speed does not change when the OUTSIDE/RECIRC. door is moved to either of its two positions. The difference in noise level is that an open recirculation door exposes the passenger compartment directly to the noise. When insulated against the noise with the recirculation passageway closed, the speed appears to be less. The control knob operates an A/C switch that is attached to the backside of the A/C control by one screw and retainer tabs. Five hoses (black, white, red, blue, yellow) extend from the A/C control just below the electrical connector for the mode selector switch to the vacuum control motors and vacuum supply. The solid black hose goes to the vacuum supply through a tee-shaped A/C vacuum check valve (19A563), which attaches the A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket (19A566) and engine source. The white hose actuates the OUTSIDE/RECIRC. air door two-position vacuum control motor. The blue hose actuates the FLOOR/PANEL air door two-position vacuum control motor. The red and yellow hoses actuate the FLOOR/DEFROST three-position air vacuum control motor. Each end of each hose slides onto the nipple of the vacuum port to which it attaches..." SEE DIAGRAMS
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Air Conditioning Wiring Diagrams in a 94
Source: by Richard B at SuperMotors.net
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Air Horn Wiring Diagram in an 88
Source: by Adrianspeeder (The OJ Special, The Lariat, The Bronco) at SuperMotors.net
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Alternator Diode Leakage Test; "...To check alternator diode leakage, connect the multimeter in series with the alternator output terminal when the car is not running. Leakage current should be a couple of milliamps at most; more often, it will be on the order of 0.5 milliamps. Use care when disconnecting the alternator output wire; make sure the battery is disconnected first..."
Source: by assets.fluke.com
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Alternator Test; "...The battery must be fully charged (see fig. 1). Run the engine and verify that no-load voltage is 13.8 - 15.3V (check as in fig. 1). Next, load the alternator to rated output current with a carbon pile across the battery. Run the engine @ 2000 RPM. Check the current with an 80i-410 or 80i-1010 current clamp. The unit must maintain at least 12.6V @ rated output..." read more
Source: by assets.fluke.com
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Alternator Wiring Diagram in an 83 (see #3)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Alternator Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Alternator, 60-100 amp (2G) Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Alternator, 95 amp Wiring Diagrams in a 93
Source: by Bobby (blue) at SuperMotors.net
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Anti-Theft & Keyless Entry Module & Connector Location Diagram Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as key, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Audiovox Alarms, Remote Start & Keyless Entry Owners Manuals
Source: by audiovox
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Auxiliary/Off-Road Light Wiring Diagram
Source: by KC200787 at SuperMotors.net
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Bad Fusible Link pic & depiction; "...most fusible links have melted/charred insulation when they burn out..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Battery Drain; "...Disconnect the positive clamp on your battery but take care not to touch the body metal with the wrench when doing this. Now connect an small light between the + terminal and the clamp. Put the clamp on a rag so it can't touch the sheet metal. If any drain is present the light will glow. Or you can check the amount of drain with an small ammeter. An drain of 1-2 Watts can be tolerated. Next pull the fuse for the mechanic clock and the radio. Still any current flowing (light on)? Ok, so you really have a problem. Now start pulling the fuses in the fuse box one by one until the light goes off. This is the circuit in which the problem lies. Check your manual or the indications in the cover of the fuse box to see which systems are connected to that fuse. The next steps depend on the systems concerned. Try disconnecting each one of the parts connected in the circuit. Again it's the same - when the light goes out you've found the problem. Even better than a light bulb is an buzzer. Many people have one of those annoying little rascals lying around. Use it..."
Source: by Alain H at landroverclub.net
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Battery Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Blower Motor Current Draw and Voltages in a 96 Bronco, from Workshop Manual; Low 3-5 / 3-4 volts; Medium Low 6-8 / 5-7 volts; High 15-22 / 11-14 volts;Blower Circuit System Protection 30 Amp Mini-Fuse (Light Green) in Panel F-14 (D9ZB-14A094-GA)
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at Bronco Zone Forums
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Borg Warner (BW) 1356 Electric Shift Troubleshooting & Repair - BEST PROCESS! in Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor Location & pic in a 92
Source: by yoomooman (eddy) at SuperMotors.net
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Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor pics in a 96
Source: by drinkbrew (Jason) at FSB
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Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor Replacement Information & in an 89; "...took about 45 minutes to remove the yoke, tail housing, and solder/splice/heat shrink the new sensor in place..."
Source: by kf4amu (Will H, The Beast) at FSB
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Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor Wiring Diagram
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift Speed Sensor Wiring Diagram & "...The speed sensor is important because the vehicle must be stopped for a shift into or out of 4L. The shift module won't make the shift if the vehicle is moving. speed sensor should show 225-275 ohms with the vehicle stopped. Check at the module connection..." Miesk5 Note Ford Part Number is 7f293 speed sensor
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at ylobronc.users.superford.org
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Brake Light & High Mount Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series (Partial)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake Light (Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard, Turn, Flash-to-Pass, Dimmer High & Low Headlight Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake Light Overview in 92-96; "...All vehicles use a brake warning light in the instrument cluster to warn of system malfunctions. The red warning light for the brakes can show three things; that either the parking brake is not fully released, that the brake fluid level is low in the master cylinder reservoir or the vacuum pressure is low on diesel engine vehicles. The anti-lock brake system uses one amber ABS warning light to alert the driver of malfunctions in the system. The amber ABS warning light will come on for numerous reasons. It warns the driver that the ABS has been disabled. Normal power-assisted braking remains but the wheels can lock during a panic stop while the indicator is on. Certain procedures must be followed to find the concern in this situation. Refer to «Section 06-09B» in the Powertrain/Drivetrain Manual for diagnosis and testing of the system.The yellow anti-lock brake indicator lights up for approximately two seconds when the ignition switch lock cylinder is first moved to ON or START for circuit prove out. The indicator also lights up when the RABS module detects a malfunction in the system. The self-test feature contains codes that indicate the area of the malfunction. When a malfunction is detected, the RABS control module shuts down the system and the yellow anti-lock warning indicator comes on. This permits normal braking. A code can be retrieved by momentarily grounding the diagnostic pigtail (black with orange stripe wire) after it is disconnected from KAM (keep-alive power red wire) and counting the flashes of the yellow ABS lamp. To make sure the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is not lost from memory, the ignition switch lock cylinder must be left in the ON position before the diagnostic lead is disconnected from KAM power. If more than one diagnostic trouble code exists, only the first code stored will be displayed. Additional codes will be output only after the first fault is corrected..." read more
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake On-Off Switch, Brake Light & High Mounted Stop Lamp, Back- UP Lamp, License Lamp, Turn Signal, Daytime Running Lights Module, Head Light, Hazard, Trailer Marker Relay, etc. Wiring Diagram in 92-96 Bronco & F 150
Source: by seijirou at SuperMotors.net
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Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch 13480: The brake on/off switch tells the powertrain control module when the brakes are applied. The switch is closed when the brakes are applied and open when they are released. The PCM uses this signal to disengage torque converter clutch when brake is applied. Failed on or not connected — Torque converter clutch will not engage at less than 1/3 throttle. Failed off — Torque converter clutch will not disengage when brake is applied. DTC: 536, P1703. ..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake Shift Interlock Troubleshooting & Overview Compendium
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB
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Brake Shift Interlock Wiring Diagram in a 92 from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Brake Shift Interlock, Inadvertent Disablement TSB 99-13-9 for 94-96; "...Corporate, municipal, or police fleets may have had their 1992-1999 Ford Motor Company vehicle modified to flash the brake lamps whenever the police lights or other aftermarket lights are turned on, which may disable the brake shift interlock. The brake shift interlock is a feature that prevents the vehicle from being shifted from Park unless the brake pedal is depressed. Disabling of the brake shift interlock feature may enable the operator to inadvertently apply the accelerator instead of the brake pedal and simultaneously shift from Park to a Drive gear. ACTION: As appropriate, dealers should advise owners (including corporate, municipal, and police agencies) that any vehicle that has been modified with a connection to the brake circuit, or that electrically interfaces with the brake lamps in any manner, should be disconnected IMMEDIATELY and the emergency lighting system should be modified in a manner that does not interfere with normal vehicle operation or the brake shift interlock. In addition, if the high-mount stoplamp flashes when the police lights are on, the modification does not conform with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 108 which requires that the high-mount stoplamp only illuminate when applying the brakes. Installation of warning lights should only be performed with a completely separate electrical system, without connection to any existing vehicle wiring. Connection of aftermarket electrical equipment into the brake lamp circuit or any other circuit which is connected to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), anti-lock brake computer, air bag system, or any other vehicle system, will cause vehicle malfunction..."
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS
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Brake Shift Interlock, Inadvertent Disablement TSB 99-13-9 for 94-96; "...Corporate, municipal, or police fleets may have had their 1992-1999 Ford Motor Company vehicle modified to flash the brake lamps whenever the police lights or other aftermarket lights are turned on, which may disable the brake shift interlock. The brake shift interlock is a feature that prevents the vehicle from being shifted from Park unless the brake pedal is depressed. Disabling of the brake shift interlock feature may enable the operator to inadvertently apply the accelerator instead of the brake pedal and simultaneously shift from Park to a Drive gear. ACTION: As appropriate, dealers should advise owners (including corporate, municipal, and police agencies) that any vehicle that has been modified with a connection to the brake circuit, or that electrically interfaces with the brake lamps in any manner, should be disconnected IMMEDIATELY and the emergency lighting system should be modified in a manner that does not interfere with normal vehicle operation or the brake shift interlock. In addition, if the high-mount stoplamp flashes when the police lights are on, the modification does not conform with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 108 which requires that the high-mount stoplamp only illuminate when applying the brakes. Installation of warning lights should only be performed with a completely separate electrical system, without connection to any existing vehicle wiring. Connection of aftermarket electrical equipment into the brake lamp circuit or any other circuit which is connected to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), anti-lock brake computer, air bag system, or any other vehicle system, will cause vehicle malfunction..."
Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com
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Brake, Head Light, Turn, Tail, Hazard & Ignition Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Brake, Turn, Running & Hazard Light Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W ) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Carbon Canister (Charcoal, Vapor, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) & Vacuum Tank for AC (plastic ball type) Location & Vacuum Hose Routing Video in an 86 5.0
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net
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Charge Indicator Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
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Charging System Troubleshooting, General
Source: by icarumba.com
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Chime/Buzzer System Symptom Chart & Pin-Point Testing in a 96 from Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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CLIMATE CONTROL Vacuum Circuit, Floor Panel Door, Temperature Blend Door (Cable Controlled), Floor & Defrost Door etc. Diagrams in a 96 from Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Climate Control Vacuum Line Harness Pic in 80-96; "...80-96 similar, except 87-early 88 w/factory air; The 80-86 vacuum tank is a plastic ball on the R wheelwell..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Clutch Interlock Switch Wiring Diagram in a 91
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Coil Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Compass & Outside Temperature Component Operating Instructions in a 94
Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) at SuperMotors.net
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Compass & Outside Temperature Connector C229 Pin-Out Diagram in 96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Compass & Outside Temperature Connector Pin-Out Diagram in a 94
Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) at SuperMotors.net
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Compass & Outside Temperature Module Wiring Diagram in 96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD) Testing; using Ford's EEC Breakout Box, but many tests can be performed w/a MM, Air Gap Spark Tester or Neon Bulb Spark Tester or equivalent, etc.
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Connector & Ground Location Diagram (partial) in 92-96
Source: by fordbronco1995 ("JUICE") at FSB
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Connector Location Diagram in a 94 (part of overhead console wiring diagram series); C911 (left vanity mirror lamp), C1048 (E4OD), C913 (day/night mirror auto-lamp sensor), C271 (inertia fuel shut-off), C223 (electronic shift control module), C1012 (MLPS), C1020 ($r70W output shaft speed sensor), C1049 (4R70W), C328 (safing sensor), C404 (DSS/VSS/ABS rear axle sensor), C417 (trailer lamps), C440 (fuel level sender), C220 (to transfer case), C 117 (C6), C127 (neutral safety switch NSS), C161 (hi/low indicator switch), C510 (left front door disarm switch), C299 (RABS valve assembly), C1012 (MLPS), C117, C1025 (C6 for (7.5 & 5.8 over 8500 GVW only), C440 (front fuel tank pump/sending unit Gasoline engines) , C421 (front fuel level tank sending unit Diesel), C403 (chassis cab & 185 in wheelbase only), C427 (rear tank fuel level sender Diesel only), C441 (rear tank fuel level tank sending unit Diesel), C441 (rear tank pump/sending unit chassis cab & 185 in wheelbase only)
Source: by Ford via Ken B (Kenny's 94) at SuperMotors.net
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Connector Location Diagram, Engine Area in 92-93 4.9
Source: by Ford via chiltonlibrary.com
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Connector Location Diagram, Engine Area in a 91 4.9
Source: by Ford via chiltonlibrary.com
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Connector Location Diagram, in 92-96 (part of Keyless Entry Wiring Diagram for 92-96; scroll to the right); C200, C1048 (E4OD), C911 (left vanity mirror lamp), C271 (inertia fuel shutoff, C268, C509, C203, & C228, C912 (right vanity mirror lamp), right power mirror, C601 or C608, C404 (rear axle sensor-VSS/ABS), C311 & C310 (rear window defroster), manual transmission, C166 (back-up lamp switch), C117, C441 (fuel pump module), C429 (tailgate power window switch), tailgate window switch, C428 (tailgate latch switch, key operated), G401, C209, G200, C213, C221/C222/C223 (electronic shift control module), C220, transfer case assembly, to C161 (4x4 high/low indicator switch), C1020 (BW 1356 Electric Shift on the Fly transfer case (ESOF) output shaft speed (OSS) sensor location), C1012 (transmission range sensor(TR/MLPS), C214, C504 (left door courtesy lamp), C502 (left door lock motor), C503 (window/door lock control switch master, left), C500 (left window motor), C507 (left door speaker)
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Connector Locations in an 84; C101 at batty ground pigtail; C105 at ignition module; C121 below junction block; C128 near dual brake warning switch; C208A attached to instr cluster; C221 at radio noise capacitor near ign. coil; C230 front of eng. near distributor; C311, C321 & C325 LH fender apron near ign. module; C322 at distributor; C323 at ign. module; C327 behind center of IP; C332 fwd of RH side of dash panel; C352 near TPS; C1983 near BAP
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Connector Re-Pin/Repair Video
Source: by pfun41 at youtube.com
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Console, Overhead Display Flicker Repair; "... my overhead console display started flickering and then went out completely. I disassembled the console module that houses the board and display, I noticed the faint smell of something that had burnt. I also noticed that the 5 pin heatsinked voltage regulator (ST brand L4947H www.st.com) was dissapating quite a bit of heat when powered. Using a meter and the spec sheets on the two regulators (the other was LM2940CT-12 or NTE1954) I noticed that the output from the L4947H was around 2 volts where it should have been 5 volts. Noting the amount of heat being dissapated and the low voltage reading, I determined that another component must have failed. I started looking at the nearest component which was a 100uF 6.3 volt electrolytic capacitor. Closer inspection revealed some brown crud under the bottom of it which meant that the capacitor had failed. I dug around in some spare parts and found a 100uF 16 volt capacitor which I installed in the circuit. Put the console back together and display is working fine.." READ MORE
Source: by kc5mhb at FSB
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Courtesy, Inside & Outside Cargo Area, High Mount Brake, Map, & Dome Lamp Wiring Diagram in a 92
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Cruise (Speed) Control Vacuum Diagram in a 92
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Cruise (Speed) Control Wiring Diagram in 93-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Cylinder Balance Test; NOTE: This test is only available on 95 Bronco w/1995 CA/MAF/SFI PCM (BIO0) & 96 Bronco; & Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) Engines. "...The Cylinder Balance test on the 5.0L SEFI and 5.0L SEFI MA vehicles is designed to aid in the detection of a noncontributing cylinder. The Cylinder Balance test, first reads engine rpm, with all injectors activated. Next, each injector is turned "off and on," one at a time. The rpm drop that results, if any, is then read. These two rpm's are compared to verify that the rpm drop was greater than a calibrated level. The Cylinder Balance Test service codes correspond with cylinder number followed by a "O" on a scanner. Example 20 = cyl #2. 1. Perform Engine Running Self-Test. 2. After the last repeated service code is received, wait 5-10 seconds. 3. Lightly depress and release throttle (not wide-open throttle) within two mintutes of the last repeated service code. 4. Cylinder Balance Test will be per formed at the first test level.Test time is approximately three minutes..." read more
Source: by Tomco Inc. tomco-inc.com
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Dash Harness pic in a 96 F 150; "...some connectors have been removed..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Dash Wiring Harness Depiction & Routing in Partial Parts Break-Out Diagram in 80-86 w/ Nomenclature
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Daytime Running Light (DRL) Module Location Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Defroster Wiring Diagram (color codes are correct)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Defroster Wiring Diagrams for 78-86 & 87-96
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Diagnosis & Troubleshooting, Chapter 10, from Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
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Dimmer High & Low Headlight, Flash-to-Pass, Hazard, Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Turn & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Diode Identification & Service Replacements TSB 96-24-6 for 84-97 F Series & Econoline, 84-90 Bronco II, 86-97 Aerostar & many others; Bronco is not Listed but this TSB probably applies; "...Electrical system concerns that are due to diode failure may be serviced with an approved Ford service diode. Some electrical diodes used in early production vehicles are color coded for the purpose of size identification while others are stamped with a manufacture number. All Ford service diodes and current production diodes are identified by manufacture number. If service is required, refer to the appropriate model/year Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) to determine the size and location of the diode (s). Refer to the following Electrical Diode Application Chart for the correct service part number. IF THE DIODE REQUIRING REPLACEMENT DOES NOT HAVE THE SAME RATING AS LISTED IN THE APPLICATION CHART, USE THE NEXT HIGHER RATED DIODE.
Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com
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Diode Pattern Waveforms, Bad; "...This waveform was captured using the diode pattern test located in the engine tests menu. This particular alternator has a bad rectifier, causing an AC voltage to ride on top of the DC voltage signal. This AC voltage affected the pip and spout signals (Ford primary ignition signals) causing a no code driveability problem. The fix was to replace the alternator. This waveform was captured using the diode pattern test located in the engine tests menu. This alternator, like the previous alternator, has a bad rectifier. This is another example of how a bad rectifier can affect the diode pattern. The fix was to replace the alternator. This waveform was captured using the lab scope. This is a good example of how an alternator with a bad diode can affect other signals that the ECM looks at. In this case it is an IAC motor. When viewing waveforms that have a lot of hash always look at the alternator diode pattern as a possible cause..."
Source: by omitec.com
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Distributor Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Dome Light Circuit Wiring Diagram & Testing in 92-96; "...The only significant difference between '92-96 and '80-91 is that the MFS's DIMMER switch replaced the older beam select switch, but they perform the same function..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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DTC 121, 122, 123, 124, 125 & P0122 and P0123 in TSB 94-26-4; "...The following is a list of vehicle symptoms which have been associated with the TPS, but can also be related to other vehicle components. Check engine light, Stalls, quits, hesitation/stumble, fast idle; To minimize the replacement of good components, be advised that the following non-EEC areas may be the issue: Excessive blow-by, PCV malfunction, Vacuum leaks, Fuel pressure, Throttle sticking or linkage binding. MANY VOLTMETERS WILL AUTOMATICALLY CHANGE RANGES WHEN MEASURING TPS OUTPUT FROM IDLE TO WOT. WHEN A VOLTMETER IS USED TO MEASURE TPS OUTPUT FROM IDLE TO WOT, THE METER SCALES OR CHANGES RANGES AUTOMATICALLY. THERE MAY BE AN ERRONEOUS METER DISPLAY UNTIL THE VOLTMETER HAS LOCKED TO THE APPROPRIATE VOLTAGE READING. THE ERRONEOUS METER DISPLAY DOES NOT REPRESENT A DEFECTIVE TPS. NOTE: IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THE "RANGE LOCK" FEATURE ON MANY METERS BE SET FOR CHECKING TPS VOLTAGE..."
Source: by Ford via tccoa.com
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DTC 14 & 18; Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Troubleshooting; "...The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot. You should consider a remote mounted TFI. If your TFI is failing from heat, it can give off computer codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT). stalling/dieing or sputtering when hot but runs when it cools off. This can be caused by a faulty TFI and the biggest culprits are heat. Another culprit can be a wire grounding out. Problematic TFI's can give off codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT)..." read more
Source: by therangerstation.com
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DTC 172, 173 or 41 for HO2S Failure Or Fuse \"E\" Inoperative, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, DRLs Inoperative, MIL On, Inadvertent Self-Test, Speedometer Inoperative & Trailer Battery Charge Relay Inoperative in TSB 95-5-21 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series; "...the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions....Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes. CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND. If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault: ..." READ MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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DTC 18 IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded; "...The computer sends out a timing advance correction to the ICM over the SPOUT wire and then looks for the change on the IDM wire. You might check the ECT or the IAT sensor for your problem. Also check the SPOUT/IDM wire going to ground.
Source: by freeautomechanic.com
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DTC 21, 51, 61 or 116, 117, 118 "...Failure in either the circuit or temperature sensor will show code 21, 51, 61 or 116, 117, 118.Unplug the harness connector. First, check the signal voltage at the connector with the key on, engine off. Should be approximately 5.0v. Then, check the resistance of the sensor cold. Should be between 58,750 to 40,500 ohms. Plug in the harness connector and warm up the engine to normal operating temperature. Then, unplug and check the resistance of ..." read more
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB
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DTC 212 indicates a loss of IDM input to the PCM; "...Open harness circuit. Shorted harness circuit. Damaged Ignition Control Module (ICM). Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM)..." READ MORE
Source: by Jim at justanswer.com
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DTC 22 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)/Barometric Pressure (BARO) sensor is out of Self-Test range. Testing & Diagrams; "...Correct MAP/BARO range of measurement is typically from 1.4 to 1.6 volts...." READ MORE
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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DTC 29 & 452 Erratic Harsh Shift; PSOM Operates Correctly; "...Continuous Memory DTC 29 indicates that during the last 80 warm-up cycles, the PCM detected an error in the PSOM output signal. DTC 452 indicates the PCM detected an error in the PSOM output signal during the last 40 warm-up cycles. his procedure EXACTLY, from the Ford TSP/PCED..." READ MORE
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
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DTC 311 - Thermactor air system inoperable; "...because of the possibility that (following is an excerpt of a condensed discussion of how a [B]bad TAB[/B]/TAD/vac line DTC 311 ... and so-on problem could cause the rich aroma; Your smog pump... blows fresh clean air up through a hose to the diverter valve. The solenoid next to the diverter valve which has a .... pink little hose plugged into ... it, creates a vacuum (sucking) that opens up the valve, and allows the fresh air to pass through the valve and make it's way to the exhaust, where the cats burn the unburnt gas more efficiently since this all happens during "open loop mode". Open loop mode happens when you turn on your car and it revs at 1200rpms for the first 15-20 seconds. During this process, your ECU feeds more gas to the engine to warm up the car quickly before driving. (also known as choke on older cars). During this open loop procedure, the extra unburnt gasoline will usually cause your exhaust to smell very rich, and the air that this diverter valve sends to the cats, causes it to burn the extra unburnt gas more efficiently like I mentoined above...thus eliminating the rich gasoline smell that us older mustangs sometimes suffer from..."
Source: by 006 (Speedconcepts) via miesk5 at FSB
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DTC 312 Secondary Air Injection (AIR) misdirected during KOER Troubleshooting from Ford Bronco PCED/EVTM
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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DTC 313 indicates that Secondary Air is not being bypassed when requested from Ford PCED/EVTM; Possible causes: Vacuum hoses damaged. AIRB/AIRD valve inoperative. Air pump inoperative. AIRB/AIRD solenoids damaged. Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system. Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Refer to VECI decal. Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt. Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement. Were any problems found? YES, SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test. NO, to KC2 . READ MORE
Source: by Jim at justanswer.com
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DTC 33 & 34 "...DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing.... To prevent the EGR valve from opening when the engine is cold, the vacuum line to the EGR valve may be connected to a parted vacuum switch or a computer-controlled solenoid. Vacuum is not allowed to pass to the valve until the engine is warm. EGR isn't needed when the engine is cold, only when it is warm and under load. Any of these codes could indicate a faulty EGR valve as well. as well as a problem in the ...vacuum solenoids' Miesk5 note; TAB & TAD; so repair those vac lines 1st..."
Source: by Larry C at aa1car
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DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing; so EZiest & cheapest checks are to inspect & repair/replace repair any bad vac lines. for a <$ vac line test; I pull em off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end; includes EVP testing & Links
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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DTC 44 (KOER); Right Thermactor Inoperative; "...I had a similar issue that turned out to be the vacuum line to the Thermactor Air Bypass Valve. No CEL, just a code; 1. First check that the two vacuum lines are connected to the Vacuum Reservoir (coffee can) and the resevoir is in good repair with no leaks on the bottom. Frequently the can leaks or the vacuum lines are accidentally knocked off. Check the vacuum hose to the bottom of the Bypass Valve. Check the vacuum hose to the Diverter Valve. Check the vacuum hoses to the TAB/TAD Solenoids. Then check your TAB/TAD Solenoids. These are common easy to miss problems. Once these are ruled out all that is left is: Thermactor Air Supply Hoses. One-way Check Valves. Main TAB/TAD Valves..."
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB
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DTC 45/95 Thermactor air system inoperative-right side: "...The code 45/95 is an Air Management fault. These particular codes are used for the Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD)/Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) valve system (Fig. 3). In following the diagnostic tree we were to first check for vacuum lines that could possibly be broken or disconnected. One line was found disconnected. One line was found disconnected. We also discovered that this particular vacuum line got its source vacuum at the same place the MAP sensor did. This leak, we believed, was the cause of the erratic readings that set the MAP sensor code 72. At this point the codes were cleared and the emissions were checked. The emissions were lower, but not good enough. And a code 95 was still present. We continued with the diagnostic tree and determined that the diverter valve was not at fault. We entered the output state check and cycled both the TAB and TAD solenoids on/off. They both worked correctly. Finally, we supplied vacuum to the solenoid to make sure that the vacuum did not leak down. The TAD solenoid would not hold vacuum. It slowly bled off. We replaced the solenoid. We then performed a KOEO and KOER test. No codes were present and emissions looked excellent. HCs were averaging about 97 to 112 ppm, and the CO was down around .2%. We concluded that the emissions readings were being affected by the vacuum bleeding off of the TAD solenoid. This allowed vacuum to be applied to the diverter valve at the TAD portion continuously. This resulted in the air always being diverted to the manifold before the oxygen sensor. The oxygen sensor would read lean, because of the extra oxygen, and therefore the computer would enrich the mixture. This is why the vehicle failed emissions..."
Source: by tomco-inc
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DTC 51 Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse,Fuse Blown Due to Intermittent Short to ground; "...In the diagram see the Note: "This shorting bar in the gray diagnostic monitor harness connector, Remove the plastic wedge in the gray connector before checking circuit 824 or 817 for a short to ground." Now, I believe the ckts should be 624 or 617. for da Clock Spring/etc. ckt & Front Sensor ckts..." read more
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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DTC 512 "...indicates the PCM has experienced a power interrupt in its Keep Alive Memory (KAM) circuit. If KAPWR is interrupted to the PCM, for example when installing a breakout box, or when battery is disconnected, DTC 512 may be stored in Continuous Memory. Key off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure voltage between Test Pin 1 and Test Pin 40 or 60 at the breakout box. While observing DVOM, grasp the EEC-IV harness and wiggle, shake or bend a small section while working from the PCM to the dash panel. Does DVOM indicate less than 10.5 volts? Make sure you have a good ground at G101( Passenger of engine compartment, near battery). If so I think I would go ahead and change the PCM as I do not know of any thing else out side the PCM to cause this...."
Source: by subford at fte
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DTC 512 (M) Memory power (PCM pin 1) was interrupted; Was battery disconnected?
Source: by thorssell.net
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DTC 522 & 654 indicate the gear selector was not in Park during Self-Test; "...Possible causes: Misadjusted linkage. Open or short in harness circuits. Damaged TR sensor. Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM) . OR CHECK THIS OUT, TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 230A, TRANSMISSION: E4OD SUBJECT: No upshift 4th gear starts, harsh upshifts, neutrals out after shifts
APPLICATION: Ford-E/F Series, Bronco DATE: Jan 1995 NOTE: Click on image to make it larger. All of these concerns can be the result of an inappropriate Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor signal. The MLP sensor consists of six resistors connected in series (ganged). The resistance of the MLP sensor will vary based on which range the transmission is in. The MLP circuit can be checked using the following steps. (Step 1) Check the MLPS ground: Turn the ignition on. The voltage on pin 46 (sensor ground ) should not exceed .1v. If the voltage is excessive, add an additional ground to the existing ground wire (figure 2). NOTE: Click on image to make it larger. Figure 2 Splice an additional ground from the existing ground wire to a known good ground.The negative post of the battery is the best. This view is of the pins of the MLP connector pins. NOTE: Click on image to make it larger. (Step 2) Check the MLPS voltage: The voltage at pin 30 should vary-in increments- according to the position of the manual lever (figure 3). MLP voltage (ignition on) should be within 20% of these specifications. Note It is recommended that you use a break-out box. If a break-out box is not available, you will need to pierce the wires to pins 30 and 46 for these tests. NOTE: Click on image to make it larger. (Step 3) Check the resistance of the MLPS: The resistance of the MLPS (pins 30 and 46) should change-in increments-with the position of the manual lever (figure 4). Note If this test is being done with a break-out box, disconnect the computer first (make sure the ignition is off). If this test is being done without a break-out box, disconnect the MLPS from the vehicle harness. Note Testing beyond this point will include tests of the harness. Consult the appropriate repair manual for this..."
Source: by fordbronco1995 ("JUICE") at FSB
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DTC 542 "...No Start: Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch not reset or electrically open. Open circuit between the fuel pump and FPM circuit connection to the power-to-pump circuit. Poor fuel pump ground. Fuel pump electrically open. Engine Starts: Fuel pump secondary circuit short to power. Fuel pump relay contacts always closed. Open in FPM circuit between PCM and connection to the power-to-pump circuit. Left/front HO2S short to power (dual HO2S applications) Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Does the engine start? (For trucks with dual fuel tanks, verify tank selector is in the same position it was when KOEO DTC 542 was received.) Yes GO to J11. No GO to J15..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
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DTC 67 & 634 indicate the MLP sensor is out of Self-Test range when the gear selector is in PARK; "...Possible causes: Misadjusted linkage. Open or short in harness circuits. Damaged MLP sensor. Damaged PCM. miesk5 NOTE;... for Escort/Tracer tranny MLPS etc.; but the Bronco troubleshooting process will be similar exc for connector pins, etc. read more on testing
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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DTC 67 & DTC 634; Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor Pin-Point Test in 92-96; from Ford EVTM; "...Check the resistance of the MLPS: The resistance of the MLPS (pins 30 and 46).." read more
Source: by Ford via alldata & justanswer.com
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DTC 67 Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) Circuit Open; "...In some cases all of us at one time or another have had to "jiggle' the column shifter to get the vehicle to start because over time things losen up from DD useage.....in the Haynes Manual transmission section and www.broncolinks.com there's a diagram referring to "Point A" which is the column shift linkage and the transmission tab. A sure way to correct the "jiggling" is to go underneath the BKO on the drivers side and LOSEN the "nut" on column shift linkage and tranny tab JUST ENOUGH to click the tranny tab all the way back until it stops then 2 clicks forward and tighten the "nut".....now the column shift linkage and transmission are in sync when you go thru the grears, assuming the steering column is in resonable condition this should help correct that problem.......TOO MANY TIMES THE NSS IS DEEMED THE CULPRIT for none start when it isn't so this is a simple check to make sure. There is also another PRNDDL adjustment, but you need to remove the black plastic collar on the steering wheel, this is usually done when an actuator breaks and using pliers drive the rod downward with key on to start.....there is usually a white cable that wraps around and attached to a small mm screw IIRC that when lossened a bit it allows you to adjust the "needle" that registers on each letter of the PRNDDL..be careful because it's attached with a very fine wire loop and easily broken. The "upper ignition actuator" is another culprit because they're made of cheap pot metal.....and a PITA job to do..."
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB
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DTC 67; "..One poss is that the NSS (or also called the MLPS) was ok...or connector was/is bad/corroded; or AC was left on, or transmission was in gear during the Self Test..." read more
Source: by miesk5 at fordfzone.com
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DTC 87, 95 & 96; "...These codes relate to low or no power reaching the fuel pump. Start testing at the fuel pump relay. The relay must respond to the EEC processor and the relay contacts must be a low resistance path for fuel pump power. Relay testing can be done in a couple minutes with the fuel pump test table. Fuel pump relay testing;1. Use solenoid test at EEC pin 22 to check relay coil current draw. 2. Voltage at pump power terminal must be within .5v of battery power when relay is turned on with amp meter at pin 22. Check power from battery if voltage is low. Check the inertia switch and fuse if battery voltage is missing. Pin 22- (light blue-orange) Grounded to turn "on". Voltage will drop to about 1v when "on". Current draw will be 160 to 270mA Pin 8- fuel pump monitor (dark green-yellow) 0v engine off, battery voltage with engine running..."
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at FSB
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DTC 91 & 92 in E4OD; "...1-2 Shift solenoid circuit failure; 93 Coast clutch solenoid circuit failure(e4od), 94 Converter clutch solenoid circuit failure, 99 Electronic pressure control circuit failure, and another with two descriptions. 56 TOT reads & minus 40deg. F or circuit open and 56 Vaf or MAF circuit amove maxium voltage; I'd try pulling & cleaning the shift solenoid pack connector, and then inspect the lines from the PCM to that connector for shorts and opens. All of those codes are pointing to a problem with the connections to the solenoid pack, in the harness, or in the solenoid pack itself. I wouldn't keep driving it like you are, though. The 'default' gear is 4th, so you're creating a lot of heat trying to get going..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
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DTC P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Circuit Input Fault "...P1351 can occur if the Igniton Module was replaced with the Gray one instead of a Black one. The ICM Should be Black in color for the CCD Type Module. Many Ford parts sources are incorrect and show that this vehicle should have a Grey module. The Motorcraft part number for the Black ICM is a DY-679..."
Source: by miesk at FSB
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DTC P1742 TSB 96-6-9 for 96 Bronco & F Series; Application Chart; "...The Check Engine lamp may illuminate and a Code P1742 may be stored in memory. There may be no driveability concerns present. This may be caused by an improper signaling within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). ACTION: Reprogram or replace the PCM. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details..."
Source: by Ford via diesel-central.com via miesk5 at broncolinks.com
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DTC PO1400, P1401, PO402, P1403, P1408; "There are a number of tests that the EGR system is put through. First the DPFE is checked. It is continuously monitored for opens or shorts. The OBD II system looks for the DPFE signal to exceed the minimum or maximum values. If it finds these values out of specs a DTC P01400 or 1401 will be set
The OBD II system also monitors the EGR flow rate. At a steady state condition when the engine load and speed are moderate and the EVR duty cycle is high the DPFE voltage is checked. It then compares this DPFE value to a stored desired DPFE value for those conditions. If the two values are inconsistent, the EGR flow is insufficient (Fig. 11). A [B]DTC P0401 [/B]will be set for this condition. This test is also performed during a Key On Engine Running (KOER) test. If it fails during this test a DTC 1408 will be set; The OBDII system monitors continuosuly the DPFE signal at idle. Since there should be no EGR flow at idle, the DPFE signal should show a no flow voltage signal. The system compares the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) stored voltage to the DPFE signal at idle. If the signal is not consistent with this value, it may indicate a stuck open EGR valve. The DTC for this condition is a P0402. The EVR is continuously tested for opens
or shorts. The OBDII system looks for a circuit
voltage that is out of range or inconsistent with the EVR commanded output state. If it finds a fault in the EVR circuit voltage a DTC P1409 will be set. There are a number of tests that the EGR system is put through. First the DPFE is checked. It is continuously monitored for opens or shorts. The OBD II system looks for the DPFE signal to exceed the minimum or maximum values. If it finds these values out of specs a DTC P01400 or 1401 will be set. The system then looks for a DPFE voltage value that is inconsistent with a no flow situation.
If the DPFE voltage increases or decreases this may
indicate a fault with the upstream hose. A DTC
P1405 will be set for this condition. A DTC P1406 will be set if there is a problem with the downstream hose. The OBD II system also monitors the EGR
flow rate. At a steady state condition when the
engine load and speed are moderate and the EVR
duty cycle is high the DPFE voltage is checked. It
then compares this DPFE value to a stored desired
DPFE value for those conditions. If the two values
are inconsistent, the EGR flow is insufficient
(Fig. 11). A DTC P0401 will be set for this condition. This test is also performed during a Key On Engine Running (KOER) test. If it fails during
this test a DTC 1408 will be set. The OBD II system also checks the DPFE signal when the EGR valve is open for a negative voltage. If a negative voltage is detected the hoses may be reversed. If it fails this test a DTC 1403 will be set. The EVR is continuously tested for opens or shorts. The OBDII system looks for a circuit voltage that is out of range or inconsistent with the EVR commanded output state. If it finds a fault in the EVR circuit voltage a DTC P1409 will be set..." READ MORE
Source: by tomco-inc.com
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DTCs 3 digits & OBD II & Possible Causes & Repair Procedures for E4OD from 1996 All F-Series and Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Dual Batteries Disconnect Schematic
Source: by Wells
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Duraspark 2 Troubleshooting (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
Source: by Chilton via AutoZone
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Duraspark Troubleshooting
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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E4OD Controls Overview, Sensors, DTC (s) & Diagram; Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 12A650: On vehicles equipped with gasoline engines, the operation of the E4OD automatic transmission is controlled by the powertrain control module. Many input sensors provide information to the powertrain control module, which then controls the actuators that affect transmission operation..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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E4OD Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Wiring Diagram in a 95 Bronco; from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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E4OD Shudder; "...If the shudder occurs a) during the 3-4 or 4-3 shift at HEAVY throttle, or b) at 40mph in 2, OD OFF, and OD, or c) at the same RPM in every gear, or d) coasting, cruising, or in R, or e) during extended light braking, then it is NOT TC clutch shudder; The following is a list of common vehicle concerns that have been misdiagnosed as torque converter clutch shudder. For diagnosis of the following items, refer to the appropriate sections of the workshop manual and the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual (PCED).
Spark plugs - check for cracks, high resistance or broken insulators.
Plug wires.
Fuel injector - filter may be plugged.
Fuel contamination - engine runs poorly.
EGR valve - valve may let in too much exhaust gas and cause engine to run lean.
Vacuum leak - engine will not get correct air/fuel mixture.
MAP/MAF sensor - improper air/fuel mixture.
HO2S sensor - too rich/lean air/fuel mixture.
Fuel pressure - may be too low.
Engine mounts -loose/damaged mounts can cause vibration concerns.
Axle joints - check for vibration..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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E4OD Sluggish or Harsh Shift & No DTCs Due to Faulty PSOM; "...This is how the system works. The Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM) receives a speed signal input from the Differential Speed Sensor (DSS) and uses a programmed conversion constant to convert the signal to the standard 8000 pulses per mile speed signal output. The speed signal output is proportional to the road speed of the vehicle. The Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module supplies this signal to all components that require vehicle speed information Including the Speed Control Amplifier, the Transmission Electronic Control Assembly (TECA) (with diesel engine), and the Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Module (with gasoline engine). So it is possible for the PSOM to get a good signal and yet not send it out to one, or more, of the other speed signal users. If this is what they meant by a faulty cluster, then they are correct..."
Source: by autorepair.about.com
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E4OD Solenoid Pack Connector; "...Be careful with the different connectors. The early E4OD solenoid packs had diodes in built into the pack to prevent the voltage spike for the collapsing magnetic field of the solenoid from cooking the computer. In the later (I can't remeber which year, I think 94?) Ford removed the diodes from the solenoid pack in the trans and added protection in the computer. If you end up with a late solenoid pack and an early computer you will likely be buying a new computer. Going from memory which is a couple years old now, the early solenoid packs had a redish orange seal in the electrical connector on the transmission side, the later solenoid packs without diodes have a green seal which goes into the vehicle side harness. I the plugs don't easily plug in wrong, but if you really try you can..."
Source: by heeke via miesk5 at FSB
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E4OD Torque Converter Lockup Disengagement; "...I was living with the torque converter unlocking with the R/H turn signal. And low and behold after I changed the L/H brake/turn signal bulb the torque converter stopped unlocking with the R/H turn signal. Don't ask me but it did fix it..." by Mike G & Miesk5; Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch 13480: The brake on/off switch tells the powertrain control module when the brakes are applied. The switch is closed when the brakes are applied and open when they are released. The PCM uses this signal to disengage torque converter clutch when brake is applied. Failed on or not connected; Torque converter clutch will not engage at less than 1/3 throttle. Failed off; Torque converter clutch will not disengage when brake is applied. DTC: 536, P1703; & Discussion by NLOC members in 92-96
Source: by Miesk5 at FSB
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) Flashing because wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown #17 fuse in TSB 92-22-5 for 92 Bronco & all Light Trucks
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) Flashing because wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown #17 fuse in TSB 92-22-5 for 92 Bronco & all Light Trucks
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) & Switch Wiring Diagram in a 91 Bronco; from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) & Switch Wiring Diagram in a 95 Bronco; from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "... need to look for my notes on what fuse blew. think it was 6 or 7 due to a harness short under steering column that affected the OD Cancel Light (it blinked randomly, no Trouble Codes or tranny malfunctions though)..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "... Several different complaints concerning the overdrive cancel indicator may occur due to a faulty O/D cancel LED. At times the light may simply fail to light, flicker erratically, or glow very dim. Tapping the shift knob lightly may affect the operation of the LED, causing it to work temporarily. These complaints are usually due to a faulty O/D indicator LED. To replace the LED carefully pry the cap off the end of the shifter and pull the LED/switch out. Slide the new switch into position and snap the cap back on. Note: Don’t confuse the above conditions with a steady flashing pattern of the O/D cancel light. A steady rhythmic flashing pattern indicates a malfunction has been detected by the computer.; Part #F58Z-7G550-A..."
Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "... The flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). When it has a trouble code related to the transmission it usually commands full line pressure to try to protect the transmission from damage. Normally this is caused by a transmission slip code. Have your computer scanned to see what transmission codes are stored. If it is a torque converter slip code keep in mind it could be stored from converter clutch slippage, or slippage in another transmission clutch pack ..."
Source: by Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC becontrols.com
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "...check the wires coming out of the shifter handle, I have had several trucks have those wires short out and cause some strange symptoms. Just pull the plastic cover off the top of the column and take a look, it's pretty obvious when it happens..."
Source: by jrainw at fte
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "...Check the wiring from the OD switch at the steering column, the wires there are known to break. Could well be the problem. Check also that your brake lights are working properly and if you have spliced in wiring at the rear lights check the condition of it..."
Source: by Case 7230 at truckforum.org
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E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) Troubleshooting in 92-96; "...This symptom could be caused by a couple of problems. One is the transmission is malfunctioning. The bulb in the switch at the end of the shifter is flaky. The wire that connects the OD switch/light at the end of the shifter is being worn at the column. Process of elimination. Codes to the computer and the light flashing in a "repetetive pattern" and consistent manner indicate a trani malfunction. A flashing OD light that is sporatic, has no pattern, is accompanied by a also sporatic OD engagement indicated that the wires are being worn and possibly shorted at the column. This is a common problem with these. The light flashing in a sporatic and sometimes on and sometimes off for longer periods indicated a bad switch at the end of the column. (my case) Hope it is one of the easier ones. (Switch light or wires at column)..."
Source: by Mr P at rv.net via web.archive
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E4OD Transmission Oil Temperature Sensor (TOT) Overview & Wiring Diagram; "...The PCM monitors the voltage drop across a temperature sensitive thermistor. The PCM uses this information to determine transmission fluid temperature for adjustment of shift schedules & torque converter engagement schedules when the fluid is cold. Also used to adjust EPC pressure shift & torque converter schedules for temperature..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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E4OD Transmission Oil Temperature Sensor (TOT) Testing & Connector Pin-Out Diagram
Source: by zoom-tech.com via web.archive.org
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E4OD Wiring Diagrams in a 96 Bronco & F 150
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Color Codes for Troubleshooting/Swapping to Bosch Style Relays
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Swapping to Bosch Style Relays & Color Codes in all pre-'92 EFI Bronco & F-series; "...Working on ONE relay at a time, remove the terminals from the stock connector & discard it. I collected these Bosch-style sockets in junkyards, but they're available at most parts stores, from Ford, or several online suppliers like RJMInjectionTech.com as crimp-on kits for a near-factory look. Being careful to connect the wires to the proper terminals (using the list below), securely connect the old wires to the terminals of the new sockets. Try to keep the wires the same length so there's not a huge ratnest. EEC PWR 30 - Y (battery always 12V) 87 - Bu, DB, R (out to EEC) 85 - Wh/LB, R/LG (12V in from ig.sw.) 86 - Bk/LG, Bk (ground); FP: 30 - Y (battery always 12V) 87 - Pk/Bk, Br, DG/Y (out to inertia sw.) 85 - R (12V in from EEC PWR relay) 86 - T/LG, LB/Or (ground from EEC)...It's OK to reverse 30 with 87, or 85 with 86 on either relay. It's possible to just use common insulated flat blade terminals to connect the bare wires to the relay terminals without a socket, but it's not as secure or convenient. Now the truck will be MUCH more reliable, and can use the cheaper, heavier-duty, more common ISO relays that are easier to swap. Tape up the harness & secure the relays to a safe mounting location. Not all relays have mounting tabs like these, but the sockets or harness can be zip-tied to something solid..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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EEC Ground Location pic in an 89; "...Those wires eventually connect back to the EEC case (which is grounded) and the pins on the connector that need to be grounded...but then again every ground connects to each other on a Bronco..."
Source: by kf4amu (Will H, The Beast) at FSB
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EEC IC ECM (A9x and same years ECM's) Failures Due to Age; "...The patient in question is a remanufactured A9L unit. This ECM is the one from a little notch project I'm working on. It started giving some problems starting up, engine flooding, random hesitation, missing and stalls. I opened up the ECM (the car is running with a A9S unit) after the owner brought it for a checkup.What you see is the typical electrolytic capacitors leak, causing intermittent shorts/opens to the neighboring circuits/components and symptoms as the ones explained. Worst case scenarios with this type of failure, is a permanent no start and permanent damage to the PWB preventing it could be repaired. As soon as I replace the capacitors I'll update with the pictures showing the repairs. The following capacitor does not show any leakage problems however, it will also be replaced as a preventative measure..." read more
Source: by Joel5.0 at sbftech.com
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EEC IV 5.0L 49 State & High Altitude Calibration Conversion (EEC IV Processor Change) TSB 92-16-9 for 92 Bronco, Econoline, F 150 & F 250
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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EEC IV Pin Outs, Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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EEC IV Pin-Outs (Partial) in 88-89 & 90-91 Bronco 4.9; 88-90, 91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.0; 88-91 & 92-93 Bronco 5.8; Looking Into Harness Connectors in Ford Electronic Engine Control Overview, Chapter 12, of Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
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EEC IV Relay Wiring Diagram in an 86 5.0
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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EEC IV Self Test - & Connector Pin-Out Diagram in 87-95; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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EEC IV Self Test Connector pic in a 95 (near driver's side hood hinge)
Source: by s8c2 (the wagon) at SuperMotors.net
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EEC IV TFI Module & PIP Sensor New Diagnostic Procedure TSB 87-21-10; "NEW PROCEDURE ALLOWS TECHNICIAN TO TAKE DIRECT PATH WHEN TESTING WITH USE OF NEW TFI IV DIAGNOSTIC TESTER"
Source: by Ford via merkurencyclopedia.com
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EEC IV Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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EEC Processor, MIL On with DTC 173 in Continuous Memory w/Pass Code 111 in KOEO & KOER, Replace EEC TSB 92-18-12 for 91-92 5.8L Bronco, Econoline & F Series
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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EEC Relay Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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EEC Relay Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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EEC V (OBD II) Connector Pin-Out Diagram & Overview; "...EEC-V uses a new 104-Pin connector to accommodate more sensors and actuators to help it grow beyond just engine and transmission control. The new EEC also had to apply to newer 1996 government regulations, these were labeled as �On-Board-Diagnostics II,� and they required a new test plug called the Diagnostic Link Connector. All brands sold in the USA had to use the same test connector, and it has to be within reach of the driver�s seat..."
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at fordfuelinjection.com
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EEC-III Testing, Pin-Out, Wiring & Vacuum Diagrams in an 82; "...Woe was me, when I found out my 82 Ford Bronco was an EEC 3; had searched all over the engine compartment for the infamous "self test connector", only to find NONE..."
Source: by Tommy at home.comcast.net/~TommySpace/EEC3.html
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EEC-IV Connector Diagram w/Pin Numbers
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at fordfuelinjection.com
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EEC-IV Connector Pin-Out Diagram & Overview
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at fordfuelinjection.com
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EEC-IV Pin-Outs
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at fordfuelinjection.com
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EEC-IV SELF TEST - COMPREHENSIVE & Connector Location pic, Bronco & Ford; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
Source: by dabranco at FSB
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EEC-IV Self Test Connector Pin-Out Diagrams & Color Codes
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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EEC-IV Wiring Diagram in an 87
Source: by Yardape (Mavman, Yard Ape) at broncozone.com
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EGR Systems, Ford "...DO NOT engage when: engine is cold; engine is at idle; engine is at WOT; At low ambient temps (water vapor from the exhaust can freeze on the throttle plate); The EVR is a "normally closed" solenoid, which means that when it is de-energized, the position of the disc allows for maximum venting to the atmosphere (resulting in negligible vacuum flow to the EGR valve)..."
Source: by rockledge.home.comcast.net
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EGR Systems, Ford "...PCM will not operate the EGR valve unless it sees: The engine warmed up to normal operating temperature. TPS at partial throttle. TPS not at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). MAP/MAF must be indicating light or moderate load. A certain amount of computer clock time has to be elapsed...."
Source: by tomco-inc.com
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EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid (AIRB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid (AIRD) Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5. Diagram #2
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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EGR Valve & EGR Valve Position (EVP) Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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EGR Valve Position (EVP) Testing & Operation in a 94; "...There is no PFE on your truck. This is an "either/or" situation with some engines using the PFE sensor and others using the EVP sensor. The Pressure Feedback EGR sensor measures back-pressure in the exhaust system and sends this info to the PCM. In the case of the EVP sensor, the information is sent in the way of sensing the actual position of the EGR valve. 327 indicates the voltage in the EVP circuit was lower than it should EVER be. However, 337 indicates that the voltage coming back to the PCM is too high. These conflicting codes need to be verified. You may have wiring damage with this situation. EVP sensor should have three wires running to it. BROWN/WHITE (pin1), GREY/RED (pin2), BROWN/LT. GREEN (pin3). The GREY/RED is always the signal return. For two-pin sensors the PCM uses the voltage coming back down this wire for information. For three-pin sensors the PCM uses both this and the third pin (in the case of the EVP sensor, the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire) as a comparison voltage to the signal return voltage in the GREY/RED wire. Pin 46 of the PCM is the signal return terminal. The PCM assumes the necessary voltage drop through the wiring harness and takes the voltage from the third (BROWN/LT. GREEN) pin as a comparison. The difference is calculated and the PCM makes adjustments accordingly. The voltage at pin 46 of the PCM should be very close to the same voltage as found at pin 26 or slightly lower. To check that the VREF (reference voltage) generated by the PCM power supply is good, meter between pin 26 of the PCM and a good frame ground. Double check the wiring harness TO the EVP sensor by checking for the same voltage at the BROWN/WHITE wire in the EVP connector in the wiring harness. If you have a good VREF voltage (5VDC approx.) then jump the BROWN/WHITE wire to the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire and check the voltage at pin 27 of the PCM. If you still have good VREF voltage, the problem does NOT lie in the wiring harness. You can do the "wiggle" test on the harness to make sure there are no weak or loose connections between the sensor connector and the PCM. To test the EVP sensor itself, probe the pins that connect to the aforementioned wires and run the test by applying vacuum as described in my previous post. As mentioned, the resistance should change smoothly as the vacuum is slowly released. If it does not, the EVP is bad. Note: Only run this test with the EVP sensor disconnected from the wiring harness or your readings will be tainted by the electronics in the PCM. One thing to note here is that the VREF feed for the EVP sensor splits off to both the TP (throttle position) sensor and the MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor somewhere in the main harness between the firewall and the individual sensors. You might do well the check for damaged wires at all of these sensors just in case the harness is damaged and shorting at one of the other sensors being fed VREF..."
Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B) at fte
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Electric Fan Test Circuit Diagram in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net
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Electric Fan Wiring Diagram
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Electric Fan Wiring Diagram
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Electric Fan Wiring Diagram in an 83
Source: by Gremlin at SuperMotors.net via web.archive.com
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Electric Fan Wiring Diagram, Lincoln Mark VIII in an 89 5.8 (SOLD, but Brian is keeping his info available
Source: by Brian S at FSB
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Electric Fan Wiring Diagram, Taurus in a 79
Source: by Nick B at SuperMotors.net
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Electric Fan Wiring Diagram, Taurus in a 90
Source: by 90Beater (Topher, Chris) at bronco.tophersworld.com
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Electric Fan Wiring Diagram, Taurus in a 90
Source: by 90Beater (Topher, Chris) at FSB
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Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Testing; "..."But due to its simplicity of design, the ECT is rarely at fault when problems occur. Before testing the ECT or any other EFI component perform a self-test, trouble codes received during test can be used as a diagnostic tool along with other indicators. To test an ECT sensor you will need a volt meter. You can test the ECT by back probing the harness while reading the voltage returning to the EEC. Or you can removing the connector completely and test the resistance between the 2 pins on the ECT..." READ MORE
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge & Sender Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Engine Coolant Temperature Sender For Temperature Gauge Testing; "...If you take that single wire that Seabronc is talking about and ground it to the block the guage will imediately go to HOT that will tell you if its the guage or the sender . There is another mounted back farther in the intake and that is for the EEC to determine timing curves and injector pulse time..."
Source: by BLADE262US & Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Engine Coolant Temperature Sender For Temperature Gauge Testing; "...Pull the R/Wh wire straight off the sender & ground it to the block, intake, or head. Then turn the key to RUN. If the needle pegs, replace the sender. If not, diagnose the circuit. Also, read this caption: TSB 95-13-02 Erratic Temperature Sender - Factory temperature senders with a date code before 2774 are known to be defective. The code is stamped into the side of the hex. The format is the Julian date + the last digit of the year, so that's the 277th day of 1994. So 0085 is good; 1934 is bad; 3034 is good; 2765 is good; 3582 is bad. The sender should test at 74 Ohms cold; 9.7 Ohms hot. If you're having trouble with your temp gauge, try to read the date off the sender before any other diagnosis. A new sender from NAPA is under $10..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Engine Wiring Diagram 94-95 F-Series & Bronco 5.0L
Source: by seijirou at SuperMotors.net
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Erratic Gauges in 78-86; "... believe the 87 (88 for sure) and later Fords do not use an IVR. They use a system of small coils built into the gauge and depend on variable voltage sending units to function. Best indication of a bad IVR use to be the temp and fuel gauges performing radically at the same time since the constant voltage side of the gauges were receiving a wrong or intermittent voltage..."
Source: by Mulletwagon at fte
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Erratic Gauges in 78-86; "...The cluster "Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR)" is going bad, and staying on too long, sending too much current through the gauges & sensors. It has finally locked on, and is burning out your sensors every time you turn your key on. :( Remove the instrument cluster and then pop the VR off the film circuit - it's a metal box with 2 brass snaps. They're available at most parts stores for a few bucks. The hardest part will be getting the headlight & wiper knobs off, so post again if you need instructions on that.In this photo, counting from the RIGHT, it's between the 2nd & 3rd black bulb holders along the top of the cluster. You can see the hex screw holding the mounting tab, and just below that, you can see the 2 brass snap terminals..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Erratic/Hard Shifting Due to Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 in 94-95 Bronco & Trucks (Also happened in our 96 w/E4OD); Miesk5 NOTE; See: C. & D. Erratic/Hard Shifting
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Explanation of 3-Digit Codes & MIL TSB 92-24-03 for 91-93 Bronco, F Series and Many Others
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com
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Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) Overview; "...In FMEM mode, the computer is receiving a sensor signal that is outside the limits set by the calibration strategy. In this mode, the computer uses an alternate strategy to maintain reasonable vehicle operation in spite of the fault. The following chart lists the system faults which will turn on the CHECK ENGINE light in this mode. The error code associated with this system fault is stored in Keep Alive Memory (KAM). If the fault is no longer present, the light will turn off and vehicle will return to normal vehicle strategy. The error code stored when the light was on was not erased. This code is one of the continuous error codes and can be accessed by running the KOEO self-test. ..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Feedback Carburetor Test
Source: by assets.fluke.com
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Flash-to-Pass, Hazard, Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Turn, Dimmer High & Low Headlight & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Ford EEC IV Operation & Testing. Overview; "... ECT. MAP/BARO. TPS., etc. Used on most Fords. EGR Position (EVP) Feedback (PFE) EVP Linear Potentiometer..." PowerPoint Presentation READ MORE
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) via powershow.com
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Ford EEC IV Operation & Testing. Overview; "... ECT. MAP/BARO. TPS., etc. Used on most Fords. EGR Position (EVP) Feedback (PFE) EVP Linear Potentiometer..." PowerPoint Presentation READ MORE
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; Scroll Down on First Page, Click on each Section, then on next page, click on the pdf file; the complete book is over 85MB pdf and can be downloaded @ http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Book.pdf
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
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Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Fuel Economy Service Tips TSB 90-6-15 in 4.9L, 5.0L & 5.8L for 85-90 Bronco, E &, F Series
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Fuel Injector Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Fuel Level & Sender Testing in 92-96; "...With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 ohms (below E). With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 ohms (above F). The fuel gauge should read empty at 22.5 ohms and full at 145 ohms..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Fuel Level & Sender Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Fuel Pump & Relay Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Fuel Pump & EEC (PCM) Relay Wiring Diagram in a 95 (see#3)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Fuel Pump & Inertia Cut-Off Switch Wiring Diagram in a 95 (see #4)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Fuel Pump & Level Sender Connector Location in 92-96; "... Under center rear of vehicle on rear cross member..."
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Fuel Pump & Level Sender Ground Location in 92-96; "... pump and fuel level sender share a ground) At Rear cross member..."
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Fuel Pump Relay Wiring Diagram in a 95 (see #3)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Fuel Pump Relay Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Fuel Pump Runs w/Ignition Switch Off; "...If it stays running with the truck off, then most likely you have a bad fuel pump relay; EEC Relay hanging closed; If the EEC relay goes bad, it could be sending the signal to the fuel pump relay to turn the fuel pumps on; One easy test for this is: Without the key in ignition, bump the starter over @ the starter relay using a screwdriver. If it is the EEC relay, the truck will start without the key in the ignition..." MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PTP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PTP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}.
Source: by sackman9975 (Scott), Redwagon & miesk5 at FSB
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Fuel Pump Selector Switch Testing in a 90 F 150 w/Dual Tanks & Pumps
Source: by Ford via subford (Bill K) at fte
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Fuel Pump Test & Test & Diagram at the Diagnostic Link Connector in 84-95; "...Connect FP Relay to any ground to force the fuel pump(s) on when the key is in RUN..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Fuel Pump Testing in a 90 F 150 w/Dual Tanks & Pumps
Source: by Ford via subford (Bill K) at fte
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Fuel Pump, Relay, Inertia Switch & Fuel Gauge Level Sender Wiring Diagrams in 86 (INCLUDES BRONCO & Single Tank F 150); 89 (INCLUDES BRONCO & Single Tank F 150); 91 (INCLUDES BRONCO & Single Tank & Dual Tanks & Pumps F 150) & 95 F 150 w/Dual Tanks & Pumps
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Fuel System Wiring Diagram in a 90 F 150 w/Dual Tanks & Pumps
Source: by Ford via subford (Bill K) at photobucket
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Fuel System Wiring Diagram in an 86 5.0
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Fuel System Wiring Diagrams & Component Location Diagrams in 86-96 Bronco & Fords; Agree and enter year, make/model, etc.
Source: by Airtex at showmetheparts.com
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Fuse 17 Blown, Short Circuit The transmission control switch wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse. The following symptoms may be associated with this concern; Early shifts, Loss of power, Poor acceleration, 3-4 shift cycling, Transmission control light cycling ON/OFF or inoperative, Transmission control switch inoperative, Rear Anti-Lock Brake System (RABS) electronics (dash lights on, etc.) inoperative, Loss of instrumentation (tach, fuel gauge, etc.), Unable to read Self-Test codes (solid tone only)
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Fuse 17 Blown, Short Circuit The transmission control switch wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse. The following symptoms may be associated with this concern; Early shifts, Loss of power, Poor acceleration, 3-4 shift cycling, Transmission control light cycling ON/OFF or inoperative, Transmission control switch inoperative, Rear Anti-Lock Brake System (RABS) electronics (dash lights on, etc.) inoperative, Loss of instrumentation (tach, fuel gauge, etc.), Unable to read Self-Test codes (solid tone only) in TSB 92-22-5
Source: by coaltruck344 at answers.yahoo.com
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Fuse Block & Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 92 Bronco & F-Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Fuse Block & Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 94 Bronco & F-Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Fuse Block Diagram in a 78
Source: by highhorse78 (High Horse) at FSB
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Fuse Block Diagram in a 78
Source: by highhorse78 (High Horse) at SuperMotors.net
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Fuse Block Diagram in an 85 (register to view)
Source: by Tim O (RED WAGON, redwagon) at FSB
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Fuse Block Diagram in an 86 w/ Nomenclature
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Fuse Block Diagram in an 88
Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net
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Fuse Block pic in an 88
Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net
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Fuse Block Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Fuse E Blown, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, DRLs Inoperative, MIL On, Speedometer Inoperative TSB 95-02-11 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series; Miesk5 Note; also see TSB 95-5-21 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Fusible Link A, F, I, J, L, N, M, P & Location in a 92 4.9
Source: by Ford via chiltonlibrary.com
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Fusible Link A, J & S Location Diagram, Engine Area in a 92 5.0 & 5.8
Source: by Ford via Jem270 at Supermotors.net
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Fusible Link Repair
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Fusible Link Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Fusible Link: A-Brown 18ga to Rear Window Defroster; W-Blue 20g to Fuel Pump Relay; N-Blue 20g to EEC Power Relay; F-Blue 20ga to Trailer; Y-Blue 20ga to N.C.; L-Brown 18ga to ?; M-Brown 18ga to ?;G-Blue 20g to Exterior Lamps, Trailer; P-Blue 20ga to ?; & J-Green 14ga to Alternator as shown in Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Ground Location pic, G201 in a 92 (driver kick panel); Note by Steve83; "...that's G201 which is for all the windows, courtesy lights, instrument cluster, lighter sockets, blower, & horn switch. Instead of many wires at the ring like I was remembering, they spliced them together in the harness that year..."
Source: by BeastBronk at FSB
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Ground Locations in an 84; G203 RH side of engine; G208 near TPS; G209 forward of RH side of dash panel; G701 behind IP near LH side of radio; G757 front of engine near distributor
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Grounds, G101, G103, G104 Location in Engine Area Diagram in a 92 5.0 & 5.8
Source: by Ford via Jem270 at Supermotors.net
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Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) Overview; "...HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced. NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned "ON". The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Hazard & Turn Switch Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Hazard, Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass, Multi-Function Switch (MFS) & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Head Light Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Headlamp Switch On Warning (Available on Some Models) Overview in a 96 from Workshop Manual; "...The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the headlamp switch (11654) is in PARK or HEAD and the driver's door is open, and continues to sound until the headlamp switch is moved to OFF or the door is closed. When the headlamp switch is in PARK or HEAD, power is supplied through Circuit 14 (BR) to the module. When the driver's door is open, the driver's door lamp switch (13713) is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK)..."
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Headlight & Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Overview, Adjustment, Repair & Wiring Diagrams in 92-96
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com & miesk5 at FSB
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Headlight & Parking Lights Switch Color Codes and Pic in a 90
Source: by Worthy at FSB
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Headlight Delayed-Exit Installation in a 90
Source: by M.L.S.C. at FSB
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Headlight Switch Connector Wiring Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Headlight Switch Connector Wiring Diagrams in a 96
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com & miesk5 at FSB
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Headlight Wiring Diagram & Testing in 92-96; "...The only significant difference between '92-96 and '80-91 is that the MFS's DIMMER switch replaced the older beam select switch, but they perform the same function..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Heated Back Window Grid Wire Test in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual; Using a strong light inside vehicle, visually inspect wire grid from outside. A broken grid wire will appear as a brown spot. Run engine at idle. Set the heated back window switch and light (18C621) to ON. The indicator lamp should come on.Working inside vehicle with Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 014-00407 or equivalent, contact broad (bus bars) red-brown strips on sides of rear window. The meter should read 10-13 volts. A lower voltage reading indicates a loose ground wire (pigtail) connection at grounded side of glass. Contact a good ground point with negative lead of meter. The voltage reading should not change. With negative lead of the meter grounded, touch each grid line of heated back window at its midpoint with positive lead. A reading of approximately 6 volts indicates that the line is good. A reading of zero volts indicates that the line is broken between midpoint and the positive side of the grid line. A reading of 12 volts indicates that the circuit is broken between midpoint of grid line and ground..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Heated Back Window Switch Connector Diagram in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Heater Circuit Wiring Diagram in an 88
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at ylobronc.users.superford.org
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Heater Wiring Diagram in a 79 w/AC
Source: by Ranger429 (Trailer Special) at SuperMotors.net
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Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 in 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT)
Source: by Ford via justanswer.com
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Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or DTC 211, TSB 95-15-11 in 93-95; (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT)
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Hesitation, tip in surge, engine pinging, no torque converter lockup. "Check Engine" light on. Inspect Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) for the proper operation and adjust voltages when necessary. Check for corrosion on connectors..."
Source: by tomco-inc
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High Idle & Dieseling Troubleshooting Chart in a 94, from PCED Chart 7 for a 94; Preliminary Checks; Vacuum Leaks, Throttle Plate & Linkage, Speed Control Chain Binding/Sticking, Air Intake Tube/ Intake Manifold Leaks..." READ MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Horn Relay Location in an 89; it looks like non-cruise 89's do Not have a Horn Relay; Look at these Haynes Wiring Diagrams for 87-89 Bronco & F series by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net; It shows; to Relay with Cruise - and to Horn Switch without Cruise;YEL-LT BLU & BK BLU @ Switch
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Horn Wiring Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Horn Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Circuit Diagram in 87-91 (figure 3) (from Factory manual and the Factory EVTM guide (electrical, vacuum troubleshooting guide)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Bronco Zone Forums
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Ignition Coil Internal Resistance Testing
Source: by assets.fluke.com
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Ignition Control (IC) Module Inspection & Replacement Recall 94E52 for 95 Model E & F Series as follows: Kentucky Truck Plant 11/23 Thru 28, 1994; Lorain Assembly 11/22 Thru 28, 1994; Norfolk Assembly 11/22 Thru 29, 1994
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Control (IC) Module Location pics (near driver's side hood hinge) & info in a 96 5.8; "...Spout connector wires go into ignition module wiring connector..."
Source: by DNBELOWBRONCO (Kevin, Labor of Love) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Control Module Pin-Out Diagram in a 96
Source: by Wells
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Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) Location Video in an 86
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM); "...Ford turned to a CCD (computer-controlled dwell) ignition module sometime between 1993 and 1995. One type is referred to as the Push Start type, while the other is called the CCD (Computer Controlled Dwell) type. The Push Start module gets its name from the 4th pin on the module connector, which is a start signal inputfrom the starting system. When the module receives this 12 volt input, it increases or Pushes the ignition coil dwell for maximum coil output for easier starting. The CCD module does not use a start signal input, but does rely upon the ECM Spout input to control ignition coil primary dwell. By the way, ECM Spout controls ignition timing on both module systems. Both Push Start and CCD systems produce an IDM signal, however, they do it in different ways. The Push Start system uses an external 22K ohm resistor (22,000 ohms) that is usually taped to the wiring harness that is connected to the negative terminal of the ignition coil. [On our trucks, it is usually located in the harness between the engine and the driver's side fender] This resistor is used to lower the voltage of the Tach signal being supplied to pin #4 of the ECM. This external resistor is not used on the CCD system since it is part of the internal circuitry of the module, which produces the IDM signal. So, the IDM signal travels from pin #4 of the module directly to pin #4 of the ECM..."
Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
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Ignition Lock Cylinder Adjustment & Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in an 83; "...The following proceedure is from the 1983 Ford Service manual, with a few minor wording changes, but should work for any year. Also included are a couple of illustrations from the same proceedure to help you visualize it..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Ignition Module & TFI Test; "...Test ignition module output with a test light put the test light between the two wires at the coil harness if it flashes TFI module and PIP are functioning. test power supply to the TFI module by using the chart; PIP test distributor mounted TFI only, Test for AC voltage from pin 6 of the TFI module with harness connected to negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be 3-8.5 volts; PIP test remote mount TFI only, disconnect the distributor harness and test for 12v+ at pin 8 with the key in the run position now disconnect the S terminal at the starter solenoid/relay to disable the starter and turn key to start position test for voltage again. Hook the S terminal back up to the starter solenoid/relay test for AC voltage from pin 1 of the distributor to the negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be between 3-8.5, measure from module pin 6 to distributor pin 1 resistance should be less than 5 ohms and finally measure from pin 6 of the remote TFI module to ground you should get more than 10,000 ohms..."
Source: by theramsey3 at FSB
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Ignition Modules (Ford & other makes) General Descriptions; "...A major cause of failure is heat... especially typical on Ford, is intermittent failure. The car runs okay for a while, then stops. When it cools, it runs okay for a while longer. Then it stops again. And so on. This is a fairly certain indication of a heat failure fault which can be prevented from recurring by using the heat-resistant module replacement offered by us -- and you. All transistors and other solid state components have specific temperature ranges within which they work. If they go outside the temperature range, they either stop working or destroy themselves. Vibration is another enemy of the module since it causes the circuit path to break on the printed circuit board. Testing with simple, hand-held testers (figures 6) will tell the story. Every mechanic who works on domestic cars and engines needs a tester like this one. And many DIYs will have them, too. A third failure mode (figure 6) is mishandling or poor installation technique, especially with the small and somewhat fragile GM unit. It doesn't take much effort with a screwdriver, nor more than a small particle of sand or dirt on the mounting plate, to fracture the case of the GM module. In addition, heat dissipation (figure 7) is accomplished only if the right type of heat-conductive silicone grease is used between the module and the mounting plate. Poor ground connections are another failure mode. All modules must have a good connection between their cases and their mounting surfaces. A fifth failure mode is corrosion of the terminals. Bad connections fail a lot of systems. A sixth failure mode comes from applying improper voltages to the system. Most of these devices are protected from hooking up the battery or connectors backward. However, none of them is protected from over-voltage -- such as that applied when a mechanic gangs up a couple of 12-volt batteries to give an additional starting boost to a hard starting engine. Recap, Modules, used with trigger mechanisms, replace the points and condenser used in conventional contact-breaker or coil-and-breaker systems. Different manufacturers have different names for their modules. GM calls their a (module) (contacter), Ford calls theirs a (module) (modulator assembly), and Chrysler calls theirs a (controller) (control module)..."
Source: by napaechlin.com via web.archive.org
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Ignition or Static in AM Band TSB 90-3-12 for 89-90 Bronco, F Series, & Econoline; may be caused by a defective radio suppression capacitor or an open circuit at the connector shell.
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Ignition Suppression Resistor Location Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in 80-91 & 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing in 87-91 (from Factory manual and the Factory EVTM guide (electrical, vacuum troubleshooting guide)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Bronco Zone Forums
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Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram in a 95
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at chrisb.users.SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagrams, early & late models
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection
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Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagrams, early & late models
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram in 87-91 (from Factory manual and the Factory EVTM guide (electrical, vacuum troubleshooting guide)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Bronco Zone Forums
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Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Troubleshooting & Wiring Diagrams in a 92 from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Ignition Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "NOTE: Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay with the key on will cause the TFI-IV ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will not correct the timing. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle for adjusting base timing."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Ignition Wiring Diagrams in an 89
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) Overview; "...HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced. NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned "ON". The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Instrument Cluster Printed Circuit in 92-96; "...The instrument cluster printed circuit (10K843) which supplies current to the instrument panel indicators, gauges, and some clocks, is made of copper foil which is bonded to a polyester base film (usually referred to as Mylar®). The instrument cluster printed circuit is mounted to the cluster housing and, due to its location, cannot be easily inspected or tested in the vehicle. This makes the instrument cluster printed circuit vulnerable to damage when a probe is used for in-vehicle testing as the probe can pierce the instrument cluster printed circuit or, in some cases, burn the copper conductor.Since there is no approved procedure for in-vehicle testing of the instrument cluster printed circuit, it must be removed for visual inspection. If no visual damage is evident, each circuit should be tested with an ohmmeter. If an open circuit or short is detected, the instrument cluster printed circuit must be replaced..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Instrument Cluster Removal in 92-96; but Kusscave's site is now down; see Steve83's or tomtoc's Links; One thAng is, Gauges/cluster need to be stored in vertical or face-up positions. do Not lay any gauge or cluster face down; it will leak the dampening fluid. You can pull the cluster out w/gauges, PSOM and replace the gauge w/out losing your odometer reading. I had my cluster out for a month..it'll hold the mileage indefinitely, make that forever. his # 10); I managed to lift the gauge cluster up and tilted it to disconnect the connector to PSOM, and other gauges... And, Re; "... This is the plastic housing that the little wire loop runs through. The black thumbwheel is threaded around the plastic housing. By spinning the thumbwheel, the housing will back down and out (with the wire loop). You want to spin the housing all the way down and clear... Be gentle with it; I used a small phillips screwdriver to un-hook it; didn't need to spin it; If the cable sheath is white, it's probably about to break no matter how careful you are. If it's black with mesh reinforcement, you almost can't break it..." Shift Indicator Adjustment in 92-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/434182 "...I always unhook the cable (shifting to L or 1 makes it easier), then spin the wheel. You can't really get to the indicator end to unhook it - I do it at the shifter (wheel) end. There's nothing inherently wrong with removing the wheel assy. But when you're trying to pull the cluster, it's easier to feed the bare cable end back around the column & thru the wiring harness..." miesk5 NOTE, Electronic modules, such as instrument clusters, powertrain controls and sound systems are sensitive to static electricity and can be damaged by static discharges which are below the levels that you can hear "snap'' or detect on your skin. A detectable snap or shock of static electricity is in the 3,000 volt range. Some of these modules can be damaged by a charge of as little as 100 volts. The following are some basic safeguards to avoid static electrical damage: Leave the replacement module in its original packing until you are ready to install it. Avoid touching the module connector pins. Avoid placing the module on a non-conductive surface. Use a commercially available static protection kit. These kits contain such things as grounding cords and conductive mats.
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Instrument Custer Warning Light(s) May be Dimly Lit or there may be a Malfunction of the four Pin Low Oil Relay on Vehicles so Equipped. This could be due to the Ignition Switch; TSB for 83-91 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Ranger, Explorer & many others
Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com
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Instrument Panel Lighting Dimmer Circuit Wiring Diagram & Testing in 92-96; "...The only significant difference between '92-96 and '80-91 is that the MFS's DIMMER switch replaced the older beam select switch, but they perform the same function..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) Location pic in 78-86; "...The cluster "voltage regulator" is going bad, and staying on too long, sending too much current through the gauges & sensors. It has finally locked on, and is burning out your sensors every time you turn your key on. :( Remove the instrument cluster and then pop the VR off the film circuit - it's a metal box with 2 brass snaps. They're available at most parts stores for a few bucks. The hardest part will be getting the headlight & wiper knobs off, so post again if you need instructions on that.In this photo, counting from the RIGHT, it's between the 2nd & 3rd black bulb holders along the top of the cluster. You can see the hex screw holding the mounting tab, and just below that, you can see the 2 brass snap terminals..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) Pin-Out pic in 78-86; "...Back in the early 60's when Ford originally decided to go to a 5 volt system for the instruments the electrical engineers were faced with the problem of providing the guages with 5 volts. To make a true voltage regulator with 60's era parts would have been extremely expensive and the final product would have been about the size of a bread box. No good for their purposes. But since the guages are a hot wire design that doesn't respond very quickly to changes, the engineers were able to fool the guages into thinking that they had 5 volts by pulsing 12 volts to the guages. With the technology that is now avalible the IVR can be replaced with solid state components that supply a true 5 volts to the guages and put a stop to the wild dance of the guages..." READ MORE
Source: by James J at turbocoupe.org
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Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) Repair in 78-86; "...Back in the early 60's when Ford originally decided to go to a 5 volt system for the instruments the electrical engineers were faced with the problem of providing the guages with 5 volts. To make a true voltage regulator with 60's era parts would have been extremely expensive and the final product would have been about the size of a bread box. No good for their purposes. But since the guages are a hot wire design that doesn't respond very quickly to changes, the engineers were able to fool the guages into thinking that they had 5 volts by pulsing 12 volts to the guages. With the technology that is now avalible the IVR can be replaced with solid state components that supply a true 5 volts to the guages and put a stop to the wild dance of the guages..." READ MORE
Source: by James J at turbocoupe.org
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Insulation Shrunk TSB 89-08-12 for 87 Bronco & F Series; "...Wire insulation may shrink away from terminals at three connectors of the 14290 wire harness. The 14290 wire harness is located on the left hand fender apron in the engine compartment. Shrinkage is caused by high ambient engine temperatures and grease filled connectors. ACTION: Check for exposed wire at the terminals and wrap with electrical tape if required. Refer to the following service procedure..." READ MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Intake Air Temp (IAT)/ (Air Charge Temperature (ACT) prior to 1992) Overview & Testing; "...This measures the temperature of the air entering the engine. Which impacts the fuel ratio; the cooler the incoming air is the denser it is. Denser air can utilize more fuel, giving us even greater accuracy in obtaining our desired air to fuel ratio. Before you start blaming the air charge temperature sensor and replacing it make sure the rest of the coolant system is in good condition. All of the following items will affect the ACT; Coolant level, Radiator Fan, Engine Temperature..." READ MORE
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Intake Air Temp (IAT); Air Charge Temperature (ACT) Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Intermittent No-Spark: Spark w/SPOUT Connector Un-Plugged, but Falter and/or No-Spark w/SPOUT Connected (similar to Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark); "It seems that the insulation around many PIP sensors breaks down prematurely - a condition that leads to shorting of the wires leading to the TFI ignition module. I always replace a PIP sensor along with a defective ignition module, if it has "soft" insulation..."; etc. (for a Ranger, but similar); Note, site won't allow you to return to this page, so open URL in a new Window; SEE Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or DTC 211, TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT) by Ford via Steve83 at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/470468
Source: by Brian M at asashop.org
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Key-in-Ignition Warning Overview in a 96 from Workshop Manual; "...The warning chime/buzzer sounds when the driver's door is open with the key in the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582), and continues to sound until the key is removed or the door is closed. When the key is in the ignition switch lock cylinder, the key-in-ignition switch is closed and ground is supplied to the warning chime/buzzer module through Circuit 158 (BK/PK). When the driver's door is open, the driver's door lamp switch (13713) is closed and power is supplied to the module through Circuit 159 (R/PK)..."
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Key-in-Ignition Warning Switch Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 88-91 Non-Tilt
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Keyless Entry Connector C2 Wiring Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Kill Switch Wiring Diagrams; "...The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective. "ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Knock Sensor (KS) Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Lights, Auxiliary/Off-Road Installation & Wiring Tips
Source: by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at FSB
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Loose or Weak Contact at Generator Harness Connector TSB 96-21-4 for 86-93 Bronco & F Series, etc.
Source: by Ford via mustangforums.com
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Loss of Instrumentation (tach, fuel gauge, etc.); E4OD transmission control switch wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse for 92-96 in TSB 92-22-5 for 92 Bronco & all Light Trucks
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) Introduction TSB 88-05-07 for 88 Bronco, F series, & all others
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)/ Barometric Pressure Sensor (BP) Testing w/DVOM that has a frequency measuring ability
Source: by assets.fluke.com
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Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor Connector Pin-Out Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor - E4OD Controls Overview, Sensors, DTC (s) & Diagram; "... The powertrain control module sends voltage to the Transmission Range (TR) sensor. The TR sensor incorporates a series of step-down resistors which act as a voltage divider. The powertrain control module monitors this voltage which corresponds to the position of the gearshift selector lever (P, R, N, (D), 2 or 1). The powertrain control module uses this information to determine the desired gear and electronic pressure control pressure. The TR sensor is located on the outside of the transmission at the gearshift selector lever. Harsh engagements, firm shift feel. DTC 634, 654, 667, 668, P0705, P0707, P0708, P1705..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor Circuit in Ignition Troubleshooting & Wiring Diagrams in a 92 from Ford EVTM
Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLP/TR) Sensor Connector Re-Pining in a 90; "...Here is what I have on my 1990 after MLPS Upgrade to F5TP-7F293-AA...First, look at this diagram, specifically the lower connector, for reference... Then I have as follows...#1 - Blank, #2 - Light Blue/Yellow Stripe, #3 - Black/White Stripe, #4 - Blank, #5 - Red/Black Stripe, #6 - Violet/Orange Stripe, #7 - Black/Violet Stripe, #8 - White/Red Stripe; Be advised that Red might be Pink and Violet might be Purple, it is hard to see with a flashlight. And, these wires no longer match up to my Haynes MLPS Schematic..."
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB
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Map, Courtesy & Vanity Lamps Wiring Diagrams in a 96
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com & miesk5 at FSB
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Map, Courtesy & Vanity Lamps Wiring Diagrams in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Wiring Diagram in a 95 (see #3)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Mini-Tube Vacuum Hose Damage Repair in a 92
Source: by JohnMcD348 at FSB
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Mini-Tube Vacuum Hose Service in Climate Control System in a 96; "...Measure the length of the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Cut a piece of standard 3mm (1/8-inch) ID vacuum hose approximately 25mm (1 inch) longer than the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Cut the mini-tube vacuum hose on each side of the damaged area and remove damaged portion of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Dip the mini-tube hose ends in Tetra Hydro Furan (THF) or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). Either of these solvents will act as a sealer for the repair of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Insert the ends of the mini-tube vacuum hose approximately 9mm (3/8 inch) into the ends of the standard 3 mm (1/8-inch) ID replacement vacuum hose. Shake the service joint after assembly to make sure solvent is dispersed and vacuum line is not blocked internally. Test system for a vacuum leak in area serviced..." from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Mirror, Automatic Day/Night Connector Face Pinout (C913) Diagram in 94-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Mirror, Outside, Power Wiring Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Cleaning; "Just hit hazard switch in and out for about a minture, which cleans the MFS contacts and presto"
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) via cawright3 at FSB
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Wiring Diagram in 92-96 Bronco & F 150; for lighting only, turn signals, head lights, hazards, etc.
Source: by seijirou at SuperMotors.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard & Brake Light Disengage E4OD Torque Converter Lockup in 2009 MY; miesk5 NOTE; but could be applicable to earlier years; "...Alternative connections or wiring practices are not recommended as certain modifications may result in other circuits becoming nonfunctional...Do not splice into the Powertrain System (PCM PCMV). Connecting to any component or wires to this system may adversely affect Engine/transmission operation..." read more
Source: by fleet.ford.com
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard & Brake Light MAY Disengage E4OD Torque Converter Lock-up Discussion in 92-96
Source: by members at nloc.net
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard & Brake Light MAY Disengage E4OD Torque Converter Lock-up; "...I was living with the torque converter unlocking with the R/H turn signal. And low and behold after I changed the L/H brake/turn signal bulb the torque converter stopped unlocking with the R/H turn signal. Don't ask me but it did fix it..."
Source: by Mike G & Miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard, Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Neutral Safety Switch & Clutch Safety Switch Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series (PARTIAL)
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
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Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch) Wiring Color Codes in an 85; "...This schematic has a picture of the neutral safety/backup lamp switch in the corner, and gives the wire colors for the back up lamp circuit in the schematic. The neutral safety portion of the connector has a white with pink going in,(if it was equipped with starter interrupt) and a red with light blue going out to the starter relay. Without starter interrupt, both the wires going into and out of the neutral safety switch are red with a lt blue tracer..."
Source: by Mr. EdC at justanswer.com
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Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch) Wiring Diagram in an 86 & Ford truck C6
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
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Neutral Safety Switch (also referred to as Back-Up Switch) Wiring Diagram in an 89 C6 (partial circuit); Red/Lt Blu from Ignition Switch to NSS and then to Starter Relay
Source: by Cucamongan (Scotty) at SuperMotors.net
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Neutral Safety Switch Adjustment & Testing in a 78 C6
Source: by Ranger429 (Trailer Special) at 7879blueovalbronco.com
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Neutral Safety Switch Part Number SW-2120 for an 87 C6 w/Electric Shift Transfer Case & 6 Pins
Source: by ccbyrd59 at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Wiring Color Codes in a 79 C6; "...white/pink wire and Black/Red wire are for back up lights. The two red/blue wires are the neutral safety, I had to wire in a NSS on my shifter and used the other two..."
Source: by CrazyBRONCOguy at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Wiring Color Codes in an 89 AOD
Source: by Uncle_Monkey at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Wiring Color Codes in an 89 C6; MIESK5 NOTE; I added the ckt info here based on XRIS's 1986 Diagram; link is below; Red with Blue stripe - from IGN SW thru NSS to Starter Relay; See Page 2, it shows Red/Lt Blu from Ignition Switch to NSS Black with Pink stripe - Could be PNK/BLK from NSS to BACK-UP LIGHTS Purple with Orange stripe - PPL/ORN, based on Xris diagram is from Fuse 5 to BACK-UP SWITCH (NSS) [on page 2 of XRIS's Diagram) Red/Lt Blu from Ignition Switch to NSS Red/Lt Blue from NSS to Starter Relay /Yel from NSS to EEC PIN # 30 READ RYAN'S INFO - DO NOT hook up the EFI to the Neutral Safety Switch That is for the start circuit, between the ignition switch and starter relay. If you put 12volts on pin 30 you risk frying some circuits on the computer! You can view wire diagrams for EFI here http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6 Gry = Gray by buddy65; "...This might be of help. The main job of the neutral drive switch (also known as neutral safety) is to keep you from starting your engine with your automatic transmission in a gear other that park or neutral, and has nothing to do with the computer. As a second job, this NDS circuit is used by the computer (connected to pin 30) so that EEC IV can increase engine idle speed slightly when not in neutral or park - this allows the engine to run smoother at these times. I'm not sure why it is used at all for a manual transmission. Anyway, it will pump out a KOEO code 67 if pin 30 is not connected to the NDS circuit. On '88 to '91 V8 EEC wiring, all you need to do is tee the computer pin 30 wire into the NDS circuit which goes from the transmission to the ignition switch, and no more code 67. That's what I did on mine, and the code went away. I was never able to start it other than in park or neutral even though I had pin 30 connected wrong at first..."
Source: by Uncle_Monkey at FSB
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Neutral Safety Switch Wiring Diagram in an 86 C6; Miesk5 NOTES; "...Red with Blue stripe - from IGN SW thru NSS to Starter Relay; See Page 2, it shows Red/Lt Blu from Ignition Switch to NSS; Black with Pink stripe - Could be PNK/BLK from NSS to BACK-UP LIGHTS Purple with Orange stripe - PPL/ORN, based on Xris diagram is from Fuse 5 to BACK-UP SWITCH (NSS) [on page 2 of XRIS's Diagram) Red/Lt Blu from Ignition Switch to NSS Red/Lt Blue from NSS to Starter Relay b]Gry/Yel from NSS to EEC PIN # 30 READ RYAN'S INFO - DO NOT hook up the EFI to the Neutral Safety Switch That is for the start circuit, between the ignition switch and starter relay. If you put 12volts on pin 30 you risk frying some circuits on the computer!
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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NO CODE; IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) Overview; "...HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced. NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned "ON". The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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No Spark Troubleshooting, General; "...Secondary ignition voltage can shock you. Do NOT hold or touch a spark plug wire while cranking the engine.
disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. You can insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem..."
Source: by aa1car.com
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No Spark Troubleshooting, Overview & Operation; "...Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module..." most is applicable to Broncos, read more
Source: by therangerstation.com
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No Start & Start, but when Starting Runs & No DTCs in a 96 "...As far as the signals in/out for spark and fuel between the EEC-IV/V they are basicly the same. Yes I know there is a makeshift crankshaft positioner for mis-fire detection, but that is probably not the issue here. I looked some info on one of my Service cds to compare the EEC-IV and EEC-V signals. Both use the PIP, SPOUT and IDM signals. According to the manual the PCM uses the PIP signal to trigger the injectors. So I would suspect a possible missing PIP signal. I am not /100%.jpg clear what the IDM signal does. I did have one other thought around midnight last night: Both systems will shut off the injectors if the TPS signal indicates full throttle when in the Start mode. What if the OPs TPS was shorted? This would send the +5V reference signal directly through to the feedback signal. Easy check: disconnect the TPS, then try to start. Next I would start verifying the PIP and possibly the IDM signals are getting back to the PCM..."
Source: by rla2005 (Randy) at FSB
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No Start & Start, but when Starting Runs & No DTCs in a 96 "...As far as the signals in/out for spark and fuel between the EEC-IV/V they are basicly the same. Yes I know there is a makeshift crankshaft positioner for mis-fire detection, but that is probably not the issue here. I looked some info on one of my Service cds to compare the EEC-IV and EEC-V signals. Both use the PIP, SPOUT and IDM signals. According to the manual the PCM uses the PIP signal to trigger the injectors. So I would suspect a possible missing PIP signal. I am not /100%.jpg clear what the IDM signal does. I did have one other thought around midnight last night: Both systems will shut off the injectors if the TPS signal indicates full throttle when in the Start mode. What if the OPs TPS was shorted? This would send the +5V reference signal directly through to the feedback signal. Easy check: disconnect the TPS, then try to start. Next I would start verifying the PIP and possibly the IDM signals are getting back to the PCM..." MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PTP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PTP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}.
Source: by rla2005 (Randy) at FSB
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No Start Troubleshooting, Duraspark
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)/Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or NSS/MLPS with an AOD/E4OD, to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground or a bad starter. Check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS/MLPS) Or clutch safety switch. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ /gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper; MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PTP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PTP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}.
Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB
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No Start, Testing, Overview & Diagram in a 95 from Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual
Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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No Start; "Here is a quick check for no-startcondition. Turn the ignition key to da ON position to see if the “Check Engine Light" (CEL) turns on. If the CEL does NOT Light Up & it has in past before this NO START condition began, check the EEC relay"
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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No Start; & Relay Connection pic in 92-96; "...The relay trigger wire (LG/R) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N. The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter. 130A & heavier alternators use 2 fusible link wires. The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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OBD II Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC, Test, under dash) Pin-Out Diagram in a 96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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OBD II Drive Cycle; "...The engine must be warmed up and at operating temperature before proceeding with the drive modes of the following OBD II Drive Cycle. 1. Start the engine. Drive or idle (in neutral) the vehicle for 4 minutes. 2. Idle the vehicle in drive (neutral for manual transmission) for 40 seconds. 3. Accelerate the vehicle to 45 mph (72 km/h) at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle for 10 seconds. 4. Drive the vehicle with a steady throttle at 45 mph (72 km/h) for 30 seconds. 5. Idle the vehicle in drive (neutral for manual transmissions) for 40 seconds. 6. Continue to drive the vehicle in city traffic at speeds between 25 and 40 mph (40-64 km/h) for 15 minutes. During the 15 minute drive cycle the following modes must be achieved: a. at least 5 stop and idle modes at 10 seconds each b. acceleration from idles at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle position, and c. choose 3 different speeds to do 1.5 minute steady state throttle drives. 343 7. Accelerate the vehicle up to between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h). This should take approximately 5 minutes. 8. Drive vehicle and hold the throttle steady at the selected speed between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h) for approximately 5 minutes. 9. Drive the vehicle for 5 minutes at varying speeds between 45 and 60 mph (72-97 km/h). 10. Bring the vehicle back to idle. Idle in drive for 40 seconds. 11. OBD II drive cycle has been completed. Vehicle can be turned off when convenient..."
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB
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OBD II Test Connector Location pic in a 96; Boss Has a cord plugged into it (end rolled up on tranny hum carpet) in this pic; is under of ashtray, to right
Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at FSB
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OBD II Test Connector Location pic in a 96; Boss Has a cord plugged into it (end rolled up on tranny hum carpet) in this pic; is under of ashtray, to right
Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at SuperMotors.net
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Odometer & Keyless Entry Inoperative; Fuse 8 Overload, Possible Short In Circuit 54 TSB 95-14-11 for 94-95 Bronco & F Series; also affected Inoperative Courtesy, Map, Engine & Glove Compartment, Dome, Vanity, & Cargo Lamps & Inoperative Power Mirrors
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Oil Pressure Gauge & Sender Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Overhead Console & Compass/Outside Temperature Display Module Connector Wiring Diagram in a 96 from 1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Oxygen (O2) Sensor Connector Pin-Out Diagram; "..I'm pretty sure all the HEGO's are heated on the same circuit...The wire that says +12 volts is the heater wire..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Oxygen (O2) Sensor DTCs, OBD II & Possible Causes MANY! - Part of DRIVEABILITY, HO2S (HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR), CATALYST, AND FUEL SYSTEM MONITORS SERVICE TIPS -in 96 Bronco, TSB 01-9-7
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at cc
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Oxygen (O2) Sensor DTCs, OBD II & Possible Causes MANY! - Part of DRIVEABILITY, HO2S (HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR), CATALYST, AND FUEL SYSTEM MONITORS SERVICE TIPS -in96 Bronco, TSB 01-9-7
Source: by Ford via v8sho.com
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Oxygen (O2) Sensor Location Diagram in a 96; part of DRIVEABILITY - HO2S (HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR), CATALYST, AND FUEL SYSTEM MONITORS - SERVICE TIPS - OBD II VEHICLES ONLY TSB 01-9-7 for 96
Source: by Ford via v8sho.com
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Oxygen (O2) Sensor Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Oxygen (O2) Sensor Wiring Diagram in an 89 5.0, 5.8 & 7.5. Diagram #2
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Oxygen Sensor Test; Testing, Bronco & Ford; "...three wire O2 sensors; two gray wires and one black. The black should read ground. One gray wire should read 12V with the ignition on, and the other gray wire is the one we are after. Probe this wire with the engine warm, and running with a voltmeter’s (+) probe, and ground the negative probe. While the vehicle is running, the reading should be approximately 0.5V. A reading below this indicates a lean air fuel mixture; a reading above this indicates a rich mixture. If no reading is present, and all connections are good, the sensor is probably in need of replacement.."
Source: by broncoii.org
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Oxygen Sensor Wiring Diagram in a 96 5.0 & 5.8 (Fuse shown is maxi fuse #5 in engine compartment Power Distribution Box)
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Parasitic Current Drain Test; "...you should be able to trace the "parasitic draw" on the battery in the normal way. Pull the (-) cable off & put an ammeter inline set to the 10A range (or higher if possible) to see how much current is being pulled out of the battery with the key OFF, the doors SHUT, & the hood light bulb REMOVED. Make sure absolutely NOTHING is turned on anywhere on the truck. If it registers 0 or below the meter's next range, switch it down a range until it shows some useful numbers. If it ends up being below 0.5A (500mA), then replace the battery. If it's above that, start by disconnecting all the alternator wires & see if the reading drops under 0.5A. Then move to the fuse block & pull them 1 at a time until there's a significant drop in the reading. That's the circuit that's draining the battery. Follow it to find the problem..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Parking Light Circuit Wiring Diagram & Testing in 92-96; "...The only significant difference between '92-96 and '80-91 is that the MFS's DIMMER switch replaced the older beam select switch, but they perform the same function..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Parts Location in a 78 400M
Source: by 78brncoxlt at SuperMotors.net
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Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 94 Bronco & F-Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Distribution Box Diagram in a 95
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Power Door Lock & Window Switch Continuity Diagram in 87-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Door Lock Operation & Diagram; "...The door lock circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 2 switches. The switches share the power feed from the battery (always hot). The left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the right (passenger's) switch normally holds the motor wires to the left switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motors. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motors' direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position. Note that the driver's lock motor is not connected to the driver's lock switch..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Door Lock Wiring Diagram for 92-96 (First diagram)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Door Lock Wiring Diagram for 92-96 w/Connector Locations (second diagram)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Door Lock Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
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Power Steering Pump Switch Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Power Window & Door Lock Switch Connector Diagram in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Power Window & Lock Connector Pin-Out Diagram (driver's side) in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Window Operation & Diagram; "...The door window circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 1 switch for the left motor & 2 switches for the right. The switches share power feed through the ignition switch (key-on only). On Broncos, this feed is also used for the tailgate window motor's dash switch. For the left window, the left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground. When operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. For the right window, the left (driver's) switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the right (passenger's) switch normally holds the motor wires to the dash switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor. When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position.."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Window Wiring Diagram for 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Power Window Wiring Diagram in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Power Window, Power Door Lock, Power Mirror & Speaker Harness & Connector Location & Removal from Door in 92-96; "...The passenger door harness disconnects inside that kick panel. But the driver door harness is continuous from the door lock motor all the way over to those passenger connectors. Either pull the dash, or disconnect everything inside the driver door, and then feed the harness out of it as you remove the door. I'd just unbolt the hinges & hang them both from a beam across the roof of the truck, leaving the wiring connected..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Power Window, Power Door Lock, Power Mirror & Speaker Harness & Connector Location & Removal from Door in an 88; "...For those pre-92 guys, these are the two connectors behind the kick panel you unplug to remove the door w/o cutting any wires. The upper plug is the power for the windows/locks & the smaller is power for the speaker. On the driver side, the connectors look the same but the green one is gray..."
Source: by Reptillikus ((Project 4D2, Kevin W) at FSB
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Power Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM) Overview, Calibration, 4WABS, Overhead Console Temperature Sensor Interface, E4OD & 4R70W; "S" in a circle displayed on the right side of the digital odometer above the last number Info & Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM) Wiring Diagram & Troubleshooting in 96 (similar to 92-95)
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module (PSOM) Wiring Diagram in 96 F Series, 92-95 are Similar
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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PSOM & Keyless Entry Inoperative; Fuse 8 Overload, Possible Short In Circuit 54 TSB 95-14-11 for 94-95 Bronco & F Series; also affected Inoperative Courtesy, Map, Engine & Glove Compartment, Dome, Vanity, & Cargo Lamps & Inoperative Power Mirrors
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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PSOM & Odometer Not Working "..due to Bad diode in the alternator that put a rf signal into the speed sensor line. It turned out to be a bad diode in the alternator that put a rf signal into the speed sensor line. I unplugged the alternator electrical connector and it went away. I am a mechanic by trade and this was on a 2001 superduty that would die when it hit 1100rpm. I was doing my key on engine running selftest when the scanner could not complete it due to excessive vss. So i monitered my vss and when my target rpm was hit the pcm would have the speed limiter kick in and since there was no laod on the engine it would stall. Naturally I started unplugging stuff untill my interferance signal went away..."
Source: by Mr Bell & miesk5 at FSB
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PSOM & Odometer Not Working & E4OD Harsh Shift TSB 94-09-12 for 94 Bronco & F Series; "...PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) may be inoperative or not function properly and the #8 fuse may be blown. In addition, if the vehicle is equipped with an E4OD transmission, it may exhibit a harsh shift. These conditions may be caused by trim screws installed through the 17K745 visor wire between the left hand "A" pillar and the left hand visor bullet connector..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com
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PSOM & Odometer Not Working & E4OD Harsh Shift TSB 94-09-12 for 94 Bronco & F Series; "...PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) may be inoperative or not function properly and the #8 fuse may be blown. In addition, if the vehicle is equipped with an E4OD transmission, it may exhibit a harsh shift. These conditions may be caused by trim screws installed through the 17K745 visor wire between the left hand "A" pillar and the left hand visor bullet connector..."
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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PSOM & Odometer Not Working & E4OD Harsh Shift TSB 94-09-12 for 94 Bronco & F Series; "...PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) may be inoperative or not function properly and the #8 fuse may be blown. In addition, if the vehicle is equipped with an E4OD transmission, it may exhibit a harsh shift. These conditions may be caused by trim screws installed through the 17K745 visor wire between the left hand "A" pillar and the left hand visor bullet connector..."
Source: by Ford via Ron at justanswer.com
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PSOM & Odometer Not Working in RABS Model Years, 87-92 Bronco and ALL F Series through 96 "...If the RABS module is suspect, simply unplug it...WHEREAS; A failed 4WABS module can interfere with the PSOM & everything on the Gy/Bk circuit, but the RABS module won't..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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PSOM Pointer PSOM Pointer Waiver TSB 96-21-11 for 92-96; "..The speedometer needle may waver and or a light surge may occur on some vehicles..." read more
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Push Button Start Installation in a 93
Source: by Destructive Mechanic at FSB
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RABS Inoperative (dash lights on, etc.); E4OD transmission control switch (TCIL) wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse for 92-96 in TSB 92-22-5 for 92 Bronco & all Light Trucks
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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RABS Module Location pic in a 92; behind the glove box
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at SuperMotors.net
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RABS Self Test Diagnostic Connector Location pic in a 92; under glove box
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at FSB
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RABS Self Test Diagnostic Connector Location pic in a 92; under glove box
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at SuperMotors.net
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RABS Self Test, Component Locations & Pin-Point Tests in an 88; PARTIAL, does not incl all Trouble Code (has only 2, 4, 5 & 9 tests); Click NEXT to view all pages
Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net
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RABS Troubleshooting in 87-92
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) & members at FSB
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RABS Wiring Diagram
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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RABS Wiring Diagram
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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RABS Wiring Diagram in a 91
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Radio Color Codes & Connector Pinouts for 87-96
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Radio Wiring Diagram for 90-06 Ranger
Source: by therangerstation.com
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Radio Wiring Diagram in 87-96; AM Radio, Premium Sound AM/FM Compact Disc Radio, Premium Sound Amplifier; from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB
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Rear Defroster Wiring Diagram in an 86 (color codes are correct, from Ford EVTM)
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at sympatico.ca/cbradley
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Rear Defroster Wiring Diagram for 78-86 & 87-96 Bronco
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Rear Defroster Wiring Diagram in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Rear Defroster Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at www3.telus.net/cbradley
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Rear View (Electrochromatic) Connector Face Pinout (C913, WPT-584) Diagram in 94-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Relay Test, Ford (Bosch Type); "...Fuel pump relay switches, and other relays are similar to the starter solinoid, in that they make a high amperage connection through a switched low amperage connection. There are two smaller connections, and two larger connections. TO test it, apply 12v to one of the smaller connections, and ground the other smaller connection. (I used to small aligator clipped jumper wries separated by a small piece of cardboard to keep them from shorting against each other.) You should hear it click. Then check for continuity between the two larger connections.Now remove the power from the smaller connections and recheck continuity between the larger connections.With power, one should have continuity, without power it should be an open circuit (no continuity)..."
Source: by Poppy at fordforumsonline.com
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Repair Locations Grid & Coding, Bronco; used to pin-point location of a repair or component in a vehicle
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Revised Single Connector Wiper Motor pic & Connector Pin-Out Diagrams in 92-96; "...Two 3-pin connectors were combined into this 5-pin by merging their grounds. A 6-pin connector was also superceded by the 5-pin. Retrofit 5-pin connectors have non-OE colors, so observe pin locations..." See wiring color changes @ pins
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Rotunda Superstar II 007-0041a Instructions
Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com
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Safety Belt Warning Overview in a 96 from Workshop Manual; "...When the key is turned to RUN or START, power is supplied through Circuit 640 (R/Y) to the warning chime/buzzer module, which then supplies power through Circuit 450 (DG/LG) to illuminate the fasten belts indicator for six seconds, whether or not the driver's safety belt is buckled. The safety belt warning will sound for approximately six seconds unless the driver's safety belt is buckled..."
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Scan Tool Instructions; Actron, Auto X-Ray, KAL
Source: by tradervar.com
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Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds, Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at SuperMotors.net
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Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests (solid tone only); E4OD transmission control switch wiring may be misrouted causing a short in the steering column and a blown # 17 fuse for 92-96 in TSB 92-22-5 for 92 Bronco & all Light Trucks
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests Troubleshooting; SIG-RTN, Self-Test Output circuit , etc.
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests, STO/MIL circuit shorting intermittently to ground; "...Occasionally, there are reports of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" lamp being lit with no Self-Test codes in Continuous Memory; in MIL Explanation with No Self Test Codes TSB 92-24-3 by Ford for 91-93; The EEC processor will erase a Continuous Memory code if the concern that caused it has not been present for 40 or 80 warm-up cycles, depending on the vehicle. A warm-up cycle occurs when the vehicle is started with the coolant temperature below 120° F (49° C) and then shutdown with the coolant temperature above 150° F (66° C). If a vehicle is brought in for service with a MIL complaint and the vehicle is driven or otherwise allowed to warm-up before Self-Test is run, the code may be cleared before the technician tests it. 4) Grounded STO/MIL Circuit The processor controls the MIL by grounding the STO/MIL circuit (Pin 17). If this circuit shorts to ground, whether the processor is controlling it or not, the MIL will be lit. Starting in 1991, if the processor has lit the MIL, it will hold it on for a minimum of 10 seconds. If the MIL flashes quickly, the concern is probably the STO/MIL circuit shorting intermittently to ground..."; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at cc
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Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay in a 92; Jeremy wrote on Page 2; "...I was able to get codes the old fashioned way by counting the flashes on dashboard, so I think that would eliminate any prospect of it being something in the wiring; ....As luck would have, it appears that changing out the old EEC relay did the trick. At first I didn't think it would. Instead of using wire from the self test connector to the battery, I plugged it directly into the connector on the tool and went through the KOEO code retreival process and lo and behold I got codes..I even got the KOER test to work as well..."
Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) & miesk5 at FSB
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Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, Short Solenoid Body Life, 4th Gear Starts in D/High Pressure may be caused by a malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay. The EEC relay is controlled by 12 volts from the ignition switch and is responsible for supplying voltage to the computer and solenoid body. If the relay contacts stick open, the complaints are as follows: Gas engine applications won’t start, Diesel will start and run, but have 4th gear starts in D, 2nd gear in 2 and 1, and maximum line pressure. If the contacts are stuck closed, the complaints may be as follows: Both gas and diesel engine application: Scan tool won’t work, vehicle battery goes dead, short solenoid body life. Note: Watch for corroded relay terminals and connectors on 89-91 E-series vans. The relay is very close to the right side battery and prone to corrosion problems especially on diesel ambulances..." read more, Diagrams are gone
Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org
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Self Test - & Connector Location Info in an 86; "...My Test Connectors and Battery are on the "right side" (passenger) behind a black EGR Vacuum Reservoir, my BKO is an 86 but as long as the Code Reader and Test Connector Plugs are the same it should be fine..."
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB
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Self Test - & Connector Location pic in 84-86; "...located on R wheelwell near starter relay..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Self Test - & Connector Location pic in a 93; labeled DLC
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Self Test - & Connector Location Video in an 86; "...My Test Connectors and Battery are on the "right side" (passenger) behind a black EGR Vacuum Reservoir..."
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net
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Self Test - & Connectors Pic in an 86; "...My Test Connectors and Battery are on the "right side" (passenger) behind a black EGR Vacuum Reservoir
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net
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SELF TEST - & DTCs; EEC III; "...The EEC-III is one of the engine control computer systems used by Ford since midyear 1978. (We will cover the others in later issues.) This procedure uses an inexpensive voltmeter and other generally available test devices instead of the special diagnostic tester originally specified by Ford. Just follow these steps to get the service codes from cars using this system..."
Source: by tomco-inc.com
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Self Test - Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) NO CODES Troubleshooting; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Self Test - Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests Troubleshooting in EEC-IV; SIG-RTN, Self-Test Output circuit, etc.
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Sensor, VSS (also called called RABS), 4WABS & PSOM, PCM Wiring Diagram & Info
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 in 94-95 Bronco & Trucks
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 on 94-95 Bronco & Trucks; Miesk5 NOTE, the TSB advises on Possible Short Locations, See Repairs for each condition and the location diagram
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Shudders, Bogs, & Intermittent No-Spark: Spark w/SPOUT Connector Un-Plugged, but No-Spark w/SPOUT Connected, due to distributor, in a 93 & KOER test won't begin; "...The engine starts to bogg down and then it shudders before it downshifts and smooths out. (example, when rpm’s drop going up an incline it will shudder for a few seconds before the rpm’s increase and it drops out of OD). If I remove the SPOUT the shuddering downshift problems goes away; then, when I replace the SPOUT the shuddering downshift problems comes back; Distributor was causing the problem..."
Source: by buck45 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles dating back to 1994, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."
Source: by genco1.com
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Spark Knock May be Caused by Variability in Ignition PIP (Profile Ignition Pick-up) Output due to a Combination of Engine Torsional Vibrations & Distributor Electrical Characteristics TSB 93-13-10 in 85-93 5.0L & 88-93 5.8L Bronco, Econoline & F SERIES
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/jerk, surge and other driveability concerns; MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur. & The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap.
Source: by Ford via ww2.justanswer.com
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Speed Control Deactivation Switch Location pic in a 93; "..."The SCDS was located here ONLY in 93 on trucks with cruise; older trucks used a mechanical vaccum valve on the brake pedal to cancel cruise; later trucks had this switch on the master cylinder, where it starts fires..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Stall-No Start, Crank-No Start, Stumble-Hesitation Possible Reasons in Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 in 94-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Ford via Chilton
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Stall-No Start, Crank-No Start, Stumble-Hesitation Possible Reasons in Short Circuits, Common Locations TSB 95-02-11 in 94-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter & Battery Parts Break-Out Diagram & Cable Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter & Relay Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
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Starter & Relay Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by Cucamongan (Scotty) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Relay Connection pic in 92-96; "...The relay trigger wire (LG/R) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N. The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter. 130A & heavier alternators use 2 fusible link wires. The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Relay Ground Wire Addition & Location Video in an 86
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Relay Parts Break-Out Diagram & Corroded Internal Terminal pics in 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Relay Types, Early & Late Model Year pics & Internal Wiring Diagrams; "...The top 2 (late style) use parallel bolts as terminals, so the copper washer inside always touches the flat bolt heads. The others (early style) use bolts perpendicular to the relay's axis, so the washer touches the sides of the bolt heads. But if the bolt is accidentally rotated (as during overtorquing), the washer will only touch a corner, causing high resistance, arcing, and welding. That's why the new style is far superior. The continuous-duty relay has a metal housing to dissipate the heat, and its S2 terminal allows its coil to be fully isolated (for reverse-polarity duty). Note that all Main terminals are electrically interchangeable. But on the newer relays, they are mechanically different in that the plastic housing restricts access to M2 slightly more, indicating that it should have only 1 wire attached. It's common for these to be MISidentified as "solenoids", but a solenoid operates a mechanism, and a starter solenoid is ON the starter; a relay is an electrical switch. Many '90-up Fords have both a starter solenoid & a starter relay, so it's important to differentiate them. If the details or text are too small, click the pic to view the original (super) size..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Relay Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Relay Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Relay Wiring pics in an 80
Source: by REDBEAST9 (The Beast) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Starter Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Starter, Ford PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) Wiring Diagram & Instructions
Source: by Texas Industrial Electric Co. texasindustrialelectric.com
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STO/MIL circuit shorting intermittently to ground; "...Occasionally, there are reports of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" lamp being lit with no Self-Test codes in Continuous Memory in MIL Explanation with No Self Test Codes TSB 92-24-3 by Ford for 91-93...The EEC processor will erase a Continuous Memory code if the concern that caused it has not been present for 40 or 80 warm-up cycles, depending on the vehicle. A warm-up cycle occurs when the vehicle is started with the coolant temperature below 120° F (49° C) and then shutdown with the coolant temperature above 150° F (66° C). If a vehicle is brought in for service with a MIL complaint and the vehicle is driven or otherwise allowed to warm-up before Self-Test is run, the code may be cleared before the technician tests it. 4) Grounded STO/MIL Circuit The processor controls the MIL by grounding the STO/MIL circuit (Pin 17). If this circuit shorts to ground, whether the processor is controlling it or not, the MIL will be lit. Starting in 1991, if the processor has lit the MIL, it will hold it on for a minimum of 10 seconds. If the MIL flashes quickly, the concern is probably the STO/MIL circuit shorting intermittently to ground..."
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at cc
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Tachometer Wiring Diagram in a 92
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Tachometer Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Tail Gate Relay Location in 78-79; "...Behind the guage/speedo is a relay that powers the inside switch, check it..."
Source: by Zebrafive at FSB
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Tail Gate Relay Location in 78-79; "...ok, for the 78-9 People, for us, it is quite easy, under the dash behind the instrument cluster, there is a relay, that relay is to run the main constant power for the rear window when the key is on..."
Source: by origin at FSB
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Tailgate Ground "..."For ~'90-96, in the driver's kick with several other grounds. Look for the green screws with a BUNCH of black wires; Ryan M (FireGuy50) wrote, 1986 Ground 701 Behind Instrument Panel near RH side of Radio..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) & Ryan M (FireGuy50) at FSB
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Tailgate Ground & Connector Locations, Circuit Overview & Wiring Diagram in 92-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Latch Safety Switch (also ref to as Limit Switch or Interlock Switch) Compendium
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Tailgate Motor Wiring Diagram, Dash Switch Test, & All TG Connector Locations Diagram in 92-95
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Switch, In Dash Testing
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Switch, In-Dash Connector Diagram in a 96 from Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Tailgate Switch, In-Dash pic in a 96 w/Legend
Source: by rdhayward at FSB
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Tailgate Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses which you may have already found out. One powers the dash switch which is powered only when the key is in RUN or ACC. The other powers the tail gate switch and that line is hot at all times. If the motor is definitely good, (which can be verified by using a set of jumper leads directly to the motor connector). Once it is verified that the motor works then the common problems are: 1. The Latch Safety switch in the left side latch, This is often a problem when the tail gate fails from both switches.(you can pull the connector and jumper it out, which many people leave permanently jumpers out). The problem can be as easy as the latch needs adjustment. So if the jumper makes it work then either leave it jumped, adjust the latching stud for a tighter fit, or replace the latch switch if testing indicates it is bad. The function of the switch is to make sure the tail gate is latched before putting the window up. I like it bypassed because it makes it easy to get the window out of the way when working inside the tail gate. I think I'm smart enough to put the window back down before closing the tail gate . The only suggestion if leaving it jumped is to support the window if it is in the up position with the tail gate down. Else it could be broken by someone leaning on it. 2. The ground return for the tail gate switch uses the same two lines the dash switch does, (the grounding point is under the dash. The dash switch changes the function of the two leads running to the tail gate window motor by grounding one and putting 12V on the other. The tail gate switch uses the two leads for the ground connection, (it requires the dash switch to be in the neutral position in order to work). Depending on the year of the truck there are 2 or 3 connectors involved that often get corroded, sometimes to the point that the wires break off the connector. In your truck, there is on connector behind the left tail light, the next common failing connector is the one on the left side of the rear frame crossover member, (it is gray, if you can still see the color, and just under and behind the bumper). So to make it short, if you can operate the motor with a set of jumper leads and the window goes up and down that way, then the problem is a connection or the Latch Safety Switch. If you can't get the tail gate open to work on it, crawl in the back and remove the tail gate panel and find the motor leads attached along the bottom edge of the opening. Disconnect them and use a long set of leads or another battery in the back with you to test the motor. Once the window is down you can open the gate to make it more comfortable to work on the problem. In the diagram you will see a black with white striped wire that goes to the tail gate key switch, you should have 12V there at all times. To get at it, you will need the window in the up position. The other two leads, (with the dash switch in the center position) should indicate that they are grounded when doing a continuity check of them). You can also check the entire path from dash switch to the tail gate key switch by using a meter and probing the wires the purple with light green stripe and the dark green with light green stripe. Have someone (with the key in RUN or ACC) moving the Dash switch from UP to Down while you check those leads for 12V. If you don't get 12V then the problem is in a connector between the two switches or a broken wire (a broken wire would most likely be where they transition between the body and tail gate due to constant flexing). The procedure would be; 12V missing on one of the wires, move back to the connector behind the tail light (missing there), move to the connector on the cross member (missing there) move back to the connectors in front, until you find where you have 12V on the line you are probing. Once you find 12V the problem is between the last point probed and where you find 12V..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Tailgate Window Circuit "... is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 2 switches. Each switch has its own power feed; the dash switch through the ignition switch (key-on only) and the tailgate key switch from the battery (always hot). The dash switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the key switch normally holds the motor wires to the dash switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor (assuming the latch switch is closed). When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Window In-Dash Switch Ground Location in an 86; 701 "...Behind Instrument Panel near RH side of Radio..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram (color codes are correct)
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram (color codes are correct)
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at 3.telus.net
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram (color codes are correct)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram (color codes are correct) - copied from Ryan M (Fireguy50)
Source: by KC200787 at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco; "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram in 78-79; "One of the most frequently asked tech questions is "Why does my window go down(up) with either the dash(key) switch but will not go up(down) with other one?" The problem is probably in one of the two switches. Notice that both switches are in the circuit in one form or another even if that switch is not being used. Also the 2 wires going between the switches and one of the 2 ground wires coming out of the dash switch are always used."
MIESK5 NOTE, The 78-79 TG ckt included a 20 a Circuit Breaker @ starter relay & also receives 12 v from Ignition Switch; whereas later years don't have the CB there; it is of course in the Fuse Panel or have 2 fuses in the panel & under the dash behind the instrument cluster; Also, there is a relay, that relay is to run the main constant power for the rear window when the key is on. by origin at FSB; Behind the guage/speedo is a relay that powers the inside switch, check it by Zebrafive at FSB; NOTE; The safety switch was moved from the tailgate handle to the left latch by 1983 by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W)
Source: by ORC Staff at ford.off-road.com
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram in 92-96 (color codes are correct)
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram in 92-96 (part of PW Diagram, from Ford EVTM)
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Wiring Diagram in an 86 (color codes are correct, from Ford EVTM)
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at www3.bc.sympatico.ca/cbradley
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Tailgate Wiring Harness & Ground Connector pics in a 95
Source: by sackman9975 (Scott) at SuperMotors.net
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Tailgate Wiring Harness pics; 78-79; 80-82 & 83-86 (a product)
Source: by Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
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Tailgate Wiring, Grounding & Connector Upgrade Diagrams
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
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Tailgate, Constant Power for the tailgate window (not a diagram, but gives changes)
Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) via Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at telus.net
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Tailgate, Instrument Panel, etc. Wiring Diagrams in an 86 & Ford truck
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
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Temperature Sensor Installation, w/Ford Part Number F87Z-12A647-AA & pic from a 99 Explorer in a 95
Source: by Trucky18 (Bco) at FSB
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Testing Wiring with a Multi Meter, General; Opens, Short, Voltage & Voltage Drop, Continuity & Diodes
Source: by freeautomechanic.com
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Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid (AIRB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid (AIRD) Resistance Test; "...Key off. Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances. Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms?..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Jim at justanswer.com
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Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Thick Film Ignition (TFI Troubleshooting, Overview & Operation; "...Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module..." read more
Source: by therangerstation.com
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Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams; "...The Thick Film Integrated (TFI-IV) ignition system uses a camshaft driven distributor with no centrifugal or vacuum advance. The distributor has a diecast base, incorporating a Hall effect stator assembly. The TFI-IV system module is mounted on the distributor base, it has 6 pins and uses an E-Core ignition coil, named after the shape of the laminations making up the core. The TFI-IV module supplies voltage to the Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) sensor, which sends the crankshaft position information to the TFI-IV module. The TFI-IV module then sends this information to the EEC-IV module, which determines the spark timing and sends an electronic signal to the TFI-IV ignition module to turn off the coil and produce a spark to fire the spark plug. The operation of the universal distributor is accomplished through the Hall effect stator assembly, causing the ignition coil to be switched off and on by the EEC-IV computer and TFI-IV modules. The vane switch is an encapsulated package consisting of a Hall sensor on one side and a permanent magnet on the other side. A rotary vane cup, made of ferrous metal, is used to trigger the Hall effect switch. When the window of the vane cup is between the magnet and the Hall effect device, a magnetic flux field is completed from the magnet through the Hall effect device back to the magnet. As the vane passes through the opening, the flux lines are shunted through the vane and back to the magnet. A voltage is produced while the vane passes through the opening. When the vane clears the opening, the window causes the signal to go to 0 volts. The signal is then used by the EEC-IV system for crankshaft position sensing and the computation of the desired spark advance based on the engine demand and calibration. The voltage distribution is accomplished through a conventional rotor, cap and ignition wires. GENERAL TESTING - Spark Plug Wire Resistance
Whenever the high tension wires are removed from the plugs, coil, or distributor, silicone grease must be applied to the boot before reconnection. Use a clean small screwdriver blade to coat the entire interior surface with Ford silicone grease D7AZ-19A331-A, Dow Corning #111, or General Electric G-627. Use spark plug wire removal pliers, or grasp firmly at the boot (not the wire itself) and remove the wires from the plugs, then remove the distributor cap. Measure the resistance through the distributor cap at that end. Resistance on these wires must not exceed 5,000 ohms per foot. Do not pierce any ignition wire for any reason. Measure only from the two ends. Adjustments - The air gap between the armature and magnetic pick-up coil in the distributor is not adjustable, nor are there any adjustment for the amplifier module. Inoperative components are simply replaced. Any attempt to connect components outside the vehicle may result in component failure. - TROUBLESHOOTING THE TFI-IV SYSTEM; After performing any test which requires piercing a wire with a straight pin, remove the straight pin and seal the holes in the wire with silicone sealer. Wiring Harness - Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the TFI module; the connector tabs must be PUSHED to disengage the connector. Inspect the connector for damage, dirt, and corrosion. Attach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the base of the distributor. Attach the other voltmeter lead to a small straight pin. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, insert the straight pin into the No. 1 terminal of the TFI module connector. Note the voltage reading. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, move the straight pin to the No. 2 connector terminal. Again, note the voltage reading. Move the straight pin to the No. 3 connector terminal, then turn the ignition switch to the START position. Note the voltage reading then turn the ignition OFF .
The voltage readings should all be at least 90 percent of the available battery voltage. If the readings are okay, proceed to the Stator Assembly and Module test. If any reading is less than 90 percent of the battery voltage, inspect the wiring, connectors, and/or ignition switch for defects. if the voltage is low only at the No. 1 terminal, proceed to the ignition coil primary voltage test. Stator Assembly and Module - Remove the distributor from the engine. Remove the TFI module from the distributor. Inspect the distributor terminals, ground screw, and stator wiring for damage. Repair as necessary. Measure the resistance of the stator assembly, using an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reading is 800-975 ohms, the stator is okay, but the TFI module must be replaced. If the ohmmeter reading is less than 800 ohms or more than 975 ohms; the TFI module is okay, but the stator module must be replaced. Repair as necessary and install the TFI module and the distributor. - Primary Circuit Continuity; This test is performed in the same manner as the previous Wiring Harness test, but only the No. 1 terminal conductor is tested (ignition switch in Run position). If the voltage is less than 90 percent of the available battery voltage, proceed to the coil primary voltage test..."
Source: by Chilton via autozone.com
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Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Troubleshooting Worksheet; miesk5 Note; this is the Grey Module
Source: by therangerstation.com
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Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Troubleshooting Worksheet; miesk5 Note; this is the Grey Module
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Test in a 90
Source: by FordXFord ( G.A.B.Y.) at SuperMotors.net
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Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Test, Location, Operation, etc.
Source: by Xris at FSB
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Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Top Dead Center (TDC); "...Remove the #1 spark plug (pass-side front) Get a long-handled ratchet and socket set up on the crankshaft bolt. Cover the spark plug hole with a finger and begin rotating the crankshaft clock-wise. As you begin to feel pressure under your finger, you now know that he #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke, and that hte spark plug will fire just before TDC. Now look at the timing marks on the crankshaft damper and align the 0/TDC mark with the pointer. Remove your distributor cap. The rotor should now be pointing at he terminal for #1 cylinder. Mark the cap extension on the outside inline with where the rotor is pointing. Check to see if the terminal on the cap lines up with this mark. If not, loosen and rotate the distributor a little until a terminal lines up with the rotor. This terminal will be where your #1 spark plug cable goes. As your 302 SHOULD use the later firing order, start with that order installing the wires counter-clockwise (ccw.) Reinstall all previously removed components. BE SURE TO REMOVE THE RATCHET FROM THE CRANKSHAFT!! Start the engine. It should now run fairly smoothly. If not, double check your firing order and direction. It's very easy to mix-up the wires fro the pass-side of the engine due to the intake upper manifold.."
Source: by Mr. G at FSB
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Torque Converter Lockup Disengagement; Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard & Brake Light Disengage E4OD Torque Converter Lockup in 2009 MY; miesk5 NOTE; but could be applicable to earlier years; "...Alternative connections or wiring practices are not recommended as certain modifications may result in other circuits becoming nonfunctional...Do not splice into the Powertrain System (PCM PCMV). Connecting to any component or wires to this system may adversely affect Engine/transmission operation..." read more
Source: by fleet.ford.com
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Trailer & Camper Wiring Diagrams for 94 & 96 Trucks
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Trailer Harness Wiring Colors TSB 89-14-17 for 90 Bronco & F Series
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Trailer Light Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Trailer Tow Ground Wire Location Diagram in a 96; from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab, Motorhome Chassis, and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Troubleshooting Questions & Answers, Various, Bronco
Source: by 2carpros.com
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Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...Be aware that: The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. MIESK5 NOTE; "...The safety switch was moved from the tailgate handle to the left latch by 1983..." per Seabronc; It keeps the window from being moved when the tailgate is open, & if not latched right, it'll keep the window from working at all. Try pushing on the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate linked below. Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor. When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot at that switch. Ground for the motor is not connected to it's case, but supplied through the wires. The 78-79 TG ckt included a 20 a Circuit Breaker @ starter relay & receives 12 v from Ignition Switch; whereas later years don't have the CB there; it is of course in the Fuse Panel or have 2 fuses in the panel; & Relay Location in 78-79; for the 78-9 People, for us, it is quite easy, under the dash behind the instrument cluster, there is a relay, that relay is to run the main constant power for the rear window when the key is on,by origin at FSB; Relay Location in 78-79; Behind the guage/speedo is a relay that powers the inside switch, check it, by Zebrafive at FSB; In other years after 82, there are 2 seperate power sources & 2 fuses/circuit breakers for positive. 1 for each switch. The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches). When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate. Testing: Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's & Adrianspeeder's links. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked; To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector After 79, (Yellow/r & red/y wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red/y, & negative to yellow/r. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing). A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests: A.1- With both switches at rest & the latch switch closed, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.2- With the latch switch closed, connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red/y wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow/r wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked above to trace it down, or tell us what you find. A.3- If everything tests ok, but it still doesn't run, there's a couple more possible causes to check: Sometimes the connector for the tailgate motor will test ok, but not make contact when plugged in. You might try backprobing the motor side wires with the plug connected. On mine I removed it & soldered the connections. It's possible for a damaged wire to carry enough load to show 12v on a tester, but not enough to operate the motor. Look for worn areas, especially in the loom between the body & the tailgate. B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links above for the torque pin replacement. C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's ...link ... & use the info for removing & replacing the motor. On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors . Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor..."
Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB
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Troubleshooting with a Test Light (low resistance)
Source: by Chris B at blog.rv.net
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Troubleshooting with a Test Light (low resistance); "...low resistance test light can sometimes be used in place of a blown fuse. The light will illuminate while a short circuit to ground exists. DO NOT use a medium or high resistance test light in place of a blown fuse. These types of test lights illuminate with very small amounts of current and can be misleading..." read more
Source: by ocw.weber.edu
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Troubleshooting; "If you have a problem when turning on one circuit it causes another to come on partially (dim lights, etc.), check the ground for the part or system that was turned on first. .e., if you press the brake pedal, & the parking lights turn on partially or fully, check the brake lights' ground;This is caused by current going thru da brake light bulb filaments & finding a ground in the parking lt. system instead of its own ground"
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Turn Signal Switch Connector Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Turn Signal, Back-Up, License, Brake, Dome Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass, Hazard, Multi-Function Switch (MFS) & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Turn, Tail, Brake, Head Light, Hazard & Ignition Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Turn, Tail, Brake, Head Light, Hazard Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Canister Info
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Check Valve Depiction, Symbol & Air Flow Direction
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Gauge Diagnosis
Source: by ULTRA TUNE BROOKVALE at users.bigpond.com via web.archive.org
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Vacuum Gauge Diagnosis - BEST!; Normal engine; Steady gauge 18"-20" at all speeds..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Craig U at classictruckshop.com
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Vacuum Hose in a 95 5.8; "... leaned on this hose and SNAP. I found SigEp's old post that this is my VMV value. VMV takes the fumes from the charcoal canister (connected to gas tank) and other sources and routes them into the TB. The VMV is located in the back of the engine bay, passenger side. The tubing was very brittle and was routed by Ford along the block and to the front of the TB, with ABSOLUTELY no extra slack . So the engine torquing, gas vapors and engine heat has worn away over on the tubing over the past 15 years. It had many small cracks along the length and at the TB elbow, so no noticeable hissing sounds. I replaced with fuel rated 3/8" and 1/4" ID tubing, spliced together with a connector. Nothing fancy or pretty..."
Source: by mnlabgeek (The other girl ) at FSB
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Vacuum Hose; "... Get some vacuum/vapor/emissions hose that fits the SMALLER nipple & put a little soap on the larger nipple. Use needle-nose pliers inside it to pre-stretch that end of the new hose & it'll slip on..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Vacuum Leak Symptoms, General; "...Too fast an idle speed; A rough idle or stalling; Hesitation or misfiring when accelerating; An idle mixture that defies adjustment (carburetor)
Source: by aa1car.com
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Vacuum Leak Test, Carburetor Models; "...First, use a mechanic's stethoscope (just the hose, no steel probe) to try to localize the leak with the engine running. Check the carb base, body, hoses, or what have you. Turn the engine off, then use a small spray bottle of extra-soapy water to spray the suspected area with a moderate amount of water. Next, find a manifold vacuum port (the brake servo booster hose for example) to apply a small amount of shop air. Apply just enough air pressure to get the soap to bubble. We don't want to ruin any check valves or anything. Seal the carburetor throat(s), then watch for the bubbles. You'll find the precise location of your leak..."
Source: by niehoff.com
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Vacuum Leak Test; "...Okay, now that we have covered what a vacuum leaks do, how do you find components that leak vacuum? One way is to visually inspect all the vacuum hoses and connections. Look for disconnected, loose or cracked hoses, broken fittings, etc. Hey, you might get lucky and find the problem in a few minutes, or you might waste half the day trying to find the mysterious leak. Vacuum leaks are often the elusive needle in a haystack. And if it is not a hose leaking vacuum but something else such as a gasket, worn throttle shaft, injector O-rings, etc., you may never find it using this technique. A faster technique for finding intake manifold vacuum leaks is to get a bottle of propane and attach a length of rubber hose to the gas valve. Open the valve so you have a steady flow of gas. Then hold the hose near suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, propane will be siphoned in through the leak. The resulting "correction" in the engine's air/fuel ratio should cause a noticeable change in idle speed and/or smoothness (Note: on engines with computerized idle speed control, disconnect the idle speed control motor first). Aerosol carburetor cleaner can also be used the same way. CAUTION: Solvent is extremely flammable, so do not smoke or use it if there are any sparks in the vicinity (arcing plug wires, for example). Spray the solvent on suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, the solvent will be drawn into the engine and have the same effect as the propane. The idle speed will suddenly change and smooth out..."
Source: by aa1car.com
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Vacuum Leak Test; On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. Don't spray flammables on a running engine. MIESK5 NOTE; Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc.... where applicable; (combined w/ Steve83's info, thnx) BEWARE OF BELTS/PULLEYS, FAN AND HOT ENGINE
Source: by miesk5 & Steve83 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Vacuum Leaks, Finding; "...Cracked or broken vacuum lines, leaking intake manifold or plenum gaskets, injector o-rings, broken emissions solenoids, open vacuum ports are just a few of the causes of vacuum leaks. Use the under-hood emissions diagram and check every single vacuum circuit with a vacuum tester such as the Mityvac tool. A faster technique for finding intake manifold vacuum leaks is to get a bottle of propane and attach a length of rubber hose to the gas valve. Start the engine, be careful not to come too close to the fan or fan belts. Open the propane tank valve so you have a steady flow of gas. Then hold the hose near suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, the propane will be drawn in through the leak. The propane should cause a noticeable change in idle speed and/or smoothness. Always know where the closest fire extinguisher is and how to use it!..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
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Vacuum Line & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate "Vacuum Tube", etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing for a 96 5.8; "...McMaster-Carr: Multple colors of 5/32in reinforced nylon lines. Using a lighter I reproduced/improved the corners where the line breakouts occured in the plastic loom tubing and retaped the vacuum harness back together as a bundle..."
Source: by BlueBronco5.8 at FSB
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Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing; "...They sell hard plastic line at most parts stores now, in the HELP! section with the rest of the vacuum fittings. Most places have it near the bottom of their display, and it's not too expensive. The b!tch is forming the stuff to the shape or routing you need. I've not had the time to test it, but I believe a little heat might allow you to bend 'er into the correct shape. I should email Motormite/Dorman about that...Rubber lines collapse in long runs under low pressure (high vacuum), which is why Ford and most other manufacturers went to plastic lines. They're cheap to make, and form easily. Plus with the polymer they're made from, you can color code the lines for easier assembly line installation..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB
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Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing; "...Use 3/16" vacuum line. I replaced every single one of those hard plastic ones on my 93 BKO and it even cleared a bad vacuum condition with the EGR..."
Source: by NineT3 & members at FSB
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Vacuum Line Acronyms & Color Codes
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) & Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at FSB
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Vacuum Line Acronyms & Color Codes; EMISSION: Red = Main vacuum; Green = EGR function; Orange = Heat control Valve (exhaust & intake) (AKA heat riser but more complex); Yellow = from the TAD Solenoid (driver's side Forward Solenoid) to the TAD (Diverter) Valve located at the rear of the Intake Manifold (Distributor Advance in Carbureted Engines); White = EGR vacuum (source); Black = Mainly used for the Evaporative emissions control; Black = Thermactor ACV or Diverter valve; Blue = Throttle Kicker control; Pink = from the TAB Solenoid (driver's side rear solenoid) to the bottom of the Thermactor Air Bypass Valve (TAB or BPV/AIR Bypass (AIRB) valve); ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve (AIR Bypass (AIRB) and AIR Diverter (AIRD) valve combinations); MAN VAC is Manifold Vacuum; FPR is Fuel Pressure Regulator; EGR is Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve SOL V: Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid (SOL V) (AIRD) & Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid; ; EVR is EGR Vacuum Regulator; VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can (Tank); V REST on later years is Vapor Valve (Roll-Over @ Gas tank); V REST on earlier years such as 78/79 & SEABRONC's 83 is a Vacuum Restictor/Delay Valve, it restricts vacuum for a certain amount of time, on most engines a vacuum line from the carburetor base runs to a T & then to V REST to the distributor; Carbon Can is Carbon Canister (Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister); MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor; AIR BPV is the AIR Bypass (AIRB) Valve, also called the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve; CPRV is Canister Purge Solenoid Valve/ Canister Purge Solenoid (CANP); VCKV is Vacuum Check Valve; CAT is catalytic converter; ENG is engine; PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve. HVAC in 92-96; Black = from engine source to vacuum check valve & to vacuum reservoir tank & to Control Panel; White = actuates the Outside/Recirc air door two-position vacuum control motor; Blue = Mix (actuates the FLOOR/PANEL air door two-position vacuum control motor); Red = Floor Flow & Yellow = Panel, (actuate the FLOOR/DEFROST three-position air vacuum control motor). READ MORE
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck), Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W), Seattle FSB & miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in 78-86 Bronco/Ford truck (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc!
NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
Source: by Chilton via AutoZone
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 78 351M
Source: by 78brncoxlt at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 78 400M w/Nomenclature
Source: by Indybronco (Lula Mae) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 79 351M
Source: by Steve S at ProjectBronco.com
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 83 351W
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 83 4.9
Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 86 4.9
Source: by WilliamsSportsEntertainment (Ma Hunt Truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 86 5.0
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 87 5.0
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 88 460
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at ylobronc.users.superford.org
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 88 5.0
Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 90 5.8
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 90 5.8
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 92 5.8
Source: by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 93 5.8
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 94 5.0
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing Diagram, Heater/AC in a 93 5.8
Source: by Bronco Rob (BroncoRob) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Line Routing pics in a 87 5.0
Source: by appy at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Reading in an 86; "...my 86 351 4bbl pulls 19-21" of vac at idle(warmed up)..."
Source: by 86fn150 at FSB
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Vacuum Reservoir (VRESER) (coffee can style) Location pic in a V8 (Steve Titled it as Emission Vac Reservoir)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Tank Replacement TSB 93-8-13 for 92-93 Bronco & F Series; "...The vacuum tank for the heater or heater/air conditioning controls is sonically welded to the side of the heater or evaporator case. If a vacuum leak occurs at the vacuum tank, a different vacuum tank can be used to make the repair without removing the old vacuum tank..." READ MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vacuum Tank Replacement TSB 93-8-13 for 92-93 Bronco & F Series; "...The vacuum tank for the heater or heater/air conditioning controls is sonically welded to the side of the heater or evaporator case. If a vacuum leak occurs at the vacuum tank, a different vacuum tank can be used to make the repair without removing the old vacuum tank..." READ MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com
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Vacuum Tank/Reservoir"...Ford has NEVER used a coffee can style vacuum reservoir for the A C on 80-96 FS trucks. It's either a plastic ball, or an irregular box glued to the evaporator cover...''
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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Vacuum Test, General (Click Inspections); "...The intent of the vacuum test is to determine if there is a blockage or restriction in the exhaust system. It may or may not indicate converter problems. Ideal backpressure levels vary from one application to another. Different size engines have different flow rates and so do their exhaust systems. Check manufacturer specifications. Readings also depend slightly on where in the exhaust system they are taken. This test can be performed using any suitable engine vacuum source, including the carburetor, intake or injection manifolds. After the pressure gauge is connected to a vacuum source, readings are noted at a variety of engine speeds. To perform the vacuum test at the intake manifold, start with the engine off, and disable the EGR valve by removing or disconnecting its hose or one of its solenoids. Connect the pressure gauge to the manifold and take an idle reading with the transmission in neutral. Turn off the engine and disable the EGR valve by disconnecting its vacuum hose. Plug the hose. With the transmission in neutral, take another reading at 2500 to 3000 RPM. Read at variety of other engine speeds. To perform the vacuum test at the injection manifold, start with the engine cool, and remove the air injection check valve. Connect a rubber adapter cone to the check valve connection. Then, connect gauge hose to the adapter. As engine speeds vary, readings should initially drop slightly, then rise to within 2 to 3 inches of the vacuum level established at idle. Any sudden drop of over 10 inches of vacuum may indicate a blockage problem. Erratic swings of the vacuum indicator may indicate periodic blockages caused by loose components temporarily blocking the exhaust system. Remember that vacuum levels are also affected by factors other than exhaust system restriction, including valve and ignition timing..."
Source: by walkerexhaust.com
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Vacuum Tree Location pic in a 94 5.8
Source: by joelb23 at SuperMotors.net
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Vehicle Can be Shifted Out of PARK; Brake Shift Interlock Troubleshooting & Overview Compendium
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at FSB
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Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal; Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP. On-Line for Free at Ford. Click "Quick Guides" in left panel; Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list." Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker). Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover. Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com
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Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) 9E731: "... E4OD - The vehicle speed sensor is a variable reluctance sensor that sends an AC/frequency signal to the powertrain control module. The vehicle speed sensor signal is used by the powertrain control module to calculate vehicle speed in mph. Used as an input in determining shift scheduling and electronic pressure control. DTC 452, P0500, P1500, P1501, P0503..." READ MUCH MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Test; "...Rear axle sensor should read 800-1400 Ohms across the pins, and more than 10 Ohms from the metal shell to either pin..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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VIAIR On Board Air (OBA) Wiring Diagrams
Source: by VIAIR
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Voltage Drop Test Video, General
Source: by Federal-Mogul
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VSS Speed Input Signal Test at 4WABS Module Connector in 93-96 Bronco; "... jumper 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y)to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK) & 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB)to 22 (CKT 523, R/PK)..." MIESK5 NOTE; I did this on our 96; The 4WABS Controller was toasted; 2 yard Controller's were also bad; NO RETURNS!
Source: by Turbo Ghost at photobucket.com
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VSS Speed Input Signal Test at 4WABS Module Connector in 93-96 Bronco; "... jumper 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y)to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK) & 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB)to 22 (CKT 523, R/PK)..." MIESK5 NOTE; I did this on our 96; The 4WABS Controller was toasted; 2 yard Controller's were also bad; NO RETURNS!
Source: by Turbo Ghost at FSB
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Warning Chime/Buzzer System; Key-in-Ignition, Fasten Safety Belt & Headlamp-On Warning Wiring Diagram in a 96 from Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Warning Light Overview in 92-96; "Check Engine, Charging System, Air Bag (if Equipped), Safety Belt, High Beam, LH/RH Turn Signals, Overdrive/Overdrive Off, 4x4 Low and High Range Indicators with Lever Operated Transfer Case, Anti-Theft, Engine Coolant Temperature, Battery Voltage, Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, Tachometer (if Equipped)..." read more
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Washer Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Washer Testing in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Wiper & Washer Pin-Point Testing & Wiring Diagrams in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Windshield Wiper Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; There is no testing for the WCM - you test the MFS, the wiper & spray motors, and the wiring. If they're good but don't operate, it has to be the WCM by elimination..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Wiper Control Module (WCM) Testing Diagram & Instructions in 92-96
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Wiper Motor & Governor Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
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Windshield Wiper Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
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Windshield Wiper Wiring Diagram in an 86 & Ford truck
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
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Windshield Wiper Wiring Diagram with interval timer in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Windshield Wiper Wiring Diagram without interval timer in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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Wire Color Code Abbreviation Chart; see post #4; BK Black, BL Blue, BR Brown, DB Dark Blue, DG Dark Green, GN Green, GY Grey, LB Light Blue, LG Light Green, N Natural, O Orange, P Purple, PK Pink, R Red, T Tan, V Violet, W White, Y Yellow
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series (Partial)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in a 78, Haynes
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
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Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150
Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB
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Wiring Diagrams by Auto Repair Reference Center, Repair Manual, Mostly Chilton; many local library's offer free online access for their members; just log-in w/your library Card # and password; incl. all Broncos, & many MAKES! 1951 to 2009; some years (85-96, I believe) include: FULL Technical Service Bulletins and Recalls, Labor Hours per repair (plug in appl info); Wiring Diagrams, Vacuum Diagrams (in DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS Section), Specifications (torques, etc.) & Maintenance Intervals
Source: by arrc.epnet.com
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Wiring Diagrams in 78 Bronco & 76-78 F Series; Ignition Switch, Distributor, Duraspark, C6 Neutral Safety Switch, Windshield Washer & Washer, Starter & Relay, Battery, Alternator, Horn & Relay, etc.
Source: by Blue79 at photobucket via 7879blueovalbronco.com
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Wiring Diagrams in an 86 Bronco & Ford truck; w/Many Diesel Engine Systems & Components
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
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Wiring Diagrams, Mustang for 64.5 to 68
Source: by Ford via Dave at hammar.dyndns.org
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Wiring Harnesses & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as Air Bag or E4OD, etc.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
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Wiring Pigtails Parts Catalog, Bronco/Ford truck & all Fords w/Ford Part Numbers & Illustrations
Source: by fordinstallersupport.com
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