Home Bronco TSB Summaries Recent Updates Gallery Submit A Link Unique Visitors: 367712	FORD BRONCO -> IGNITION; plugs/wires, distributors, MSD, firing orders; switch & ignition actuator rod, TSBs... -> Troubleshooting WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 26,000 LINKs! This is a Ford Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner. Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars. UPDATE; all Links via web.archive may be down; Copy orig. URL & go to http://replay.waybackmachine.org/ to search for the new archived copy Select A Category: Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT); "...The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire..." Spark Knock May be Caused by Variability in Ignition PIP (Profile Ignition Pick-up) Output due to a Combination of Engine Torsional Vibrations & Distributor Electrical Characteristics TSB 93-13-10 in 85-93 5.0L & 88-93 5.8L Bronco, Econoline & F SERIES Select A Link: "...There are two types of EEC Self-Tests, Key On Engine Off (KOEO) & Key On Engine Running (KOER). While both of these will test for various "hard faults" that are present when the test is run, the processor continuously monitors various operating parameters whenever the engine is running. If the processor detects a problem, it will store a "Continuous Memory" code and light the MIL. These Continuous Memory codes are put out during KOEO Test after any codes associated with hard faults are output. Codes are displayed by flashing the MIL. They are also output as voltage pulses on the Self-Test Output (STO) circuit in the Self-Test connector. In either Self-Test mode, all codes are output twice and in KOEO, the hard fault codes are separated from the Continuous Memory codes by a "separator" pulse. A technician that is unfamiliar with the EEC Self-Test can mistakenly believe that continuous Memory codes are not present when they really are. He may run KOER Self-Test and get a pass code (111) and not realize that KOEO Self-Test must be run to receive any Continuous Memory codes. He may run KOEO Self-Test while counting MIL flashes and misinterpret the repeated hard fault pass code (111) to mean that Continuous Memory does not contain any codes...." READ MORE; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. On all vehicles equipped with a 4.9L engine, the clutch must be depressed during the KOEO Test. On all vehicles equipped with a 7.3L diesel engine, the throttle must be depressed (WOT) during the entire Key On Engine Off Self-Test. Engine ID codes are issued at the beginning of the KOER Test and are one-digit numbers represented by the number of pulses sent out. During KOER; For gasoline engines, the engine ID code is equal to one-half the number of engine cylinders (i.e. 2 pulses = 4 cylinders). For the 7.3L Diesel engine, the ID code = 5. These codes are used to verify the proper PCM is installed and that the Self-Test has been entered. The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine identification code. When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief Wide-Open Throttle (WOT). The dynamic response check is used on some applications to verify operation of the TP, MAF, MAP & KS sensors. On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released. The PSP Switch signals the EEC Module when power steering pressure exceeds 350 psi ±50. The engine then increases idle speed to compensate for the additional load. It appears the PSP switch was deleted from the 94 model year. PSP Switch is screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump(5.0L Only). On vehicles equipped with Brake On/Off (BOO) input (such as E4OD), the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID Code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the Brake Lamp Switch. On vehicles equipped with Transmission Control Switch (TCS) such as da E4OD, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS. TCS = Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) on E4OD it is also ref to as the OD on/off LED/Switch @ end of tranny gear stalk.Fix any codes from the KOEO test before you do the running test (KOER, key on, engine running). Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function. Source: by Ford via Miesk5 at broncolinks.com Check Engine Light (CEL) Overview in 92-96; "...The check engine warning indicator comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning..." read more Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Depiction; The engine coolant temperature sensor is threaded into the heater outlet fitting or cooling passage on the engine and detects the temperature of the engine coolant and sends this information to the ECA (Electronic Control Assembly). The sensor signal is used to modify ignition timing, EGR flow and air/fuel ratio. - 80.6 MB pdf Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com Back Probe; "...Back-probing terminals is done when live circuit measurements are required. It is always better to back-probe a terminal than it is to pierce a wire's insulation to obtain a measurement. Insert a long straight pin, T-pin, or meter probe into the back to the connector to contact the desired terminal. If multiple pins are to be used in the same connector, make sure the pins cannot touch each other resulting in a short circuit and possible circuit damage. Be careful not to damage any weather seals on the connector or terminal. Connect a test light or digital multi-meter to the straight pin to obtain a reading..." Source: by ocw.weber.edu Break-Out Box Overview; "...The breakout box put itself between the engine and the computer, and allowed the user to rapciously access the information being exchanged. They are simply a pinout board, mounted in a box, with associated cabling, like this... You can see the way the cabling hooks into the computer and then bridges into the automobile system. A closer look at the pinout board, little holes numbered to correspond to the numbered wires in the connector:The output is readable with a high impedance (this is IMPORTANT- Digital Volts Ohmeter (DVOM) No cheap knockoffs here, they may fry the computer by introducing their own voltage.) Not as fancy as a scanner which decodes the meaning for you, but valuable nonetheless because you can always look up every meaning of the output signal somewhere. Like on the factory manual CD or in the manual itself! FORD decided to make maximum use of the breakout box, and designed add ons to allow you to look at other systems. Here for example, is a harness (still looking new in the wrapper) that hooks into all the Distributorless Ignition System (DIS). It connects to the sensor connectors... allowing you full access to the signals, even while the engine is running: TFI (thick film Ignition) Yes there is a cable for this. Mine cost me $15. Here is the diagram ...There was an adapter for the breakout box that read the brake codes, AND... AND... did the procedure for properly bleeding them. It was called the anitlock Brake Adapter (ALA) and looks like this when installed in the unbilical for the breakout box: Betwen $125 and $200 on E-bay. Worth every penny if you want to look inside that engine..." Source: by Glacier991 (Chris) at explorerforum.com Break-Out Box Overview; "...The breakout box put itself between the engine and the computer, and allowed the user to rapciously access the information being exchanged. They are simply a pinout board, mounted in a box, with associated cabling, like this... You can see the way the cabling hooks into the computer and then bridges into the automobile system. A closer look at the pinout board, little holes numbered to correspond to the numbered wires in the connector:The output is readable with a high impedance (this is IMPORTANT- Digital Volts Ohmeter (DVOM) No cheap knockoffs here, they may fry the computer by introducing their own voltage.) Not as fancy as a scanner which decodes the meaning for you, but valuable nonetheless because you can always look up every meaning of the output signal somewhere. Like on the factory manual CD or in the manual itself! FORD decided to make maximum use of the breakout box, and designed add ons to allow you to look at other systems. Here for example, is a harness (still looking new in the wrapper) that hooks into all the Distributorless Ignition System (DIS). It connects to the sensor connectors... allowing you full access to the signals, even while the engine is running: TFI (thick film Ignition) Yes there is a cable for this. Mine cost me $15. Here is the diagram ...There was an adapter for the breakout box that read the brake codes, AND... AND... did the procedure for properly bleeding them. It was called the anitlock Brake Adapter (ALA) and looks like this when installed in the unbilical for the breakout box: Betwen $125 and $200 on E-bay. Worth every penny if you want to look inside that engine..." Source: by Glacier991 (Chris) at explorerforum.com Coil Test; "...test the primary circuit for resistance it should be .3-1 ohms & test the secondary circuit from the coil negative to the plug wire output, resistance should be 8,000 to 11,500 ohms; to test the coil primary circuit you should have already tested for 12v+ from coil to ground with key in run position now you need to test from TFI pin 2 to coil negative with harnesses disconnected resistance should be less than 5 ohms; test from coil negative with only the coil harness disconnected to ground should be more than 10,000 ohms..." Source: by theramsey3 (Chris) at FSB Coil Test; No Spark, No Start; "...In this article I’ll show you a very simple, easy and highly accurate way to see if the Ignition Coil on your 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L Ford F150 (or E150, Bronco, Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, etc) is fried and causing your vehicle to NOT START or not the cause of the problem. The test you’ll be doing is an On Car Test done with the Ignition Coil in action. You won’t need any expensive testing equipment to follow the simple step-by-step testing instructions presented here. You’ll need a Spark Tester, a Multimeter, a 12 Volt Test Light, and a helper (to assist you in cranking the Engine). If you’re looking for the resistance test of the Primary and Secondary Circuits, this article will not help you (in my opinion, the Primary/Secondary resistance test is a complete waste of time and life that does not work around 99% of the time to diagnose a BAD Ignition Coil). Test; No Spark, No Start; "...In this article I’ll show you a very simple, easy and highly accurate way to see if the Ignition Coil on your 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L Ford F150 (or E150, Bronco, Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, etc) is fried and causing your vehicle to NOT START or not the cause of the problem. The test you’ll be doing is an On Car Test done with the Ignition Coil in action. You won’t need any expensive testing equipment to follow the simple step-by-step testing instructions presented here. You’ll need a Spark Tester, a Multimeter, a 12 Volt Test Light, and a helper (to assist you in cranking the Engine). If you’re looking for the resistance test of the Primary and Secondary Circuits, this article will not help you (in my opinion, the Primary/Secondary resistance test is a complete waste of time and life that does not work around 99% of the time to diagnose a BAD Ignition Coil). If you haven’t done so already, the very first thing you need to do is to see if the Ignition Coil is Sparking. The test instructions below call for using an HEI Spark Tester and you may be wondering if you can use any other... and the answer is yes you can. The biggest reason I recommend the HEI Spark Tester is that it is very, very accurate Spark Tester. In the section Why the HEI Spark Tester, I go more in depth about this. OK, even if you already know that you have a No Spark Condition, follow the test steps since the purpose of this very first Ignition Coil Test, is to see if the Ignition Coil High Tension Wire (the one that feeds the Coil’s Spark to the Distributor Cap) is good or BAD. OK, this what you need to do; Disconnect the Ignition Coil’s High Tension Wire from the Distributor Cap but leave the end that connects to the Ignition Coil connected. Now, on the end that connects to the center of the Distributor Cap, attach the HEI Spark Tester (see photo in image viewer). Using a Battery Jump Start Cable, ground the HEI Spark Tester to the Battery Negative (-) Terminal. When everything is set, have a helper crank up the engine while you observe the Spark Tester from a safe distance The HEI Spark Tester will give you one of two results: Spark or No Spark. OK, let’s take a look at what your test results mean: CASE 1 You got Spark: this Spark Test result means that the Ignition Coil and its High Tension Wire are good and not the cause of your Ford pick up’s (or van or SUV) No Start Condition. CASE 2 You go No Spark: this test result doesn’t condemn the Ignition Coil or the High Tension Wire just yet. The Wire could be BAD or the Ignition Coil could not be receiving its Switching Signal from the Ignition Control Module or the Coil could really be fried. Now, don’t worry... this article will help you find out, go to IGNITION COIL TEST 2. In this test step, you’re gonna’ test for Spark directly on the Ignition Coil. The result of this test will let you know if the High Tension Cable is BAD and not letting Spark thru’ to the Distributor Cap (this happens quite a bit) or will let you know that you need to continue to the next test. Alright, this is what you’ll need to do: OK, disconnect the High Tension Wire from the Ignition Coil. Now, connect the HEI Spark Tester to the Ignition Coil’s tower using a small piece of Vacuum Hose. This is important, see how I’ve done it in the photo in the image viewer. Now ground the Spark Tester using a Battery Jump Start Cable directly on the Battery Negative (-) Terminal. Once again, you’ll see one of two results: Spark or No Spark. OK, let’s take a look at what your test results mean: CASE 1 You got Spark: this Spark Test result tells you that the High Tension Wire is FRIED and is the cause of your No Start Condition. Replace all of the Spark Plug Wires as a set. CASE 2 You got No Spark: this Spark Test result eliminates the High Tension Wire and means you’re getting closer to the actual cause of the Ignition Coil’s No Spark Condition. The next step is to verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. For this test, go to IGNITION COIL TEST 3. So far, you have verified that you do have a bona-fide No Spark situation coming directly from the Ignition Coil, the next couple of tests are to test the Ignition Coil itself. OK, before we start (and to help you make sense of this test and the next one) you’re aware that the Ignition Coil needs Power in the form of 12 Volts and that it needs a Switching Signal to create Spark. Well, in this test step, you’ll check for these 12 Volts either using a Multimeter or a 12 V DC Test Light. Alright, this is what you’ll need to do: IGNITION COIL TEST 3; With your Multimeter still in Volts DC mode from the previous test and the Key On (but engine Off). Probe the wire labeled with the number 2 in the image viewer, with the RED Multimeter Lead. Now ground the Multimeter’s BLACK Test Lead on the Battery’s Negative (-) Post. Your Multimeter should show you either: 1.) 12 Volts DC or 2.) 0 Volts. OK, let’s take a look at what your results mean: CASE 1 The Multimeter registered 12 Volts: This is the correct result and tells you that the next step is to check that the Ignition Coil is getting a Switching Signal from the Ignition Control Module (ICM). Go to IGNITION COIL TEST 4. CASE 2 The Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts: double check your Multimeter connections and repeat the test... if your Multimeter results still do not indicate 12 Volts, then the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is not fried and not the cause of the No Spark No Start problem, since without power, it won’t work. Although it’s beyond the scope of this article to find the cause of these missing 12 Volts, resolving this issue will solve the No Spark No Start issue. GNITION COIL TEST 4; In the previous test you confirmed that the Ignition Coil is being supplied with Power (12 Volts DC), now, you need to see if the Ignition Coil is getting an activation signal, called the Switching Signal, from the Ignition Control Module (ICM) This test is accomplished using a 12 Volt Test Light and is done while cranking the engine on your 4.9L, 5.0L, or 5.8L Ford pick up (or car or SUV). Alright, this is what you’ll need to do: Reconnect the High Tension Wire to the Ignition Coil and the Distributor Cap, if you haven’t done so. Probe the wire labeled with the number 1 in the image viewer. The Ignition Coil can be connected to its electrical connector or not. When ready, have your helper crank the Engine while you observe and hold the Test Light in place. Your 12 Volt Test Light will either: 1.) Flash On and Off the whole time the Engine is cranking. 2.) No flashing On or Off. OK, let’s take a look at what your results mean: CASE 1 The Test Light flashed On and Off: This is means that the Ignition Control Module is activating the Ignition Coil and since the Ignition Coil is not Sparking... the Ignition Coil is BAD. Replace the Ignition Coil. Here’s why: If the Ignition Coil is getting power (12 Volts) and is getting the Switching Signal, it HAS TO SPARK, since it isn’t, this tells you that it’s fried. CASE 1 The Test Light DID NOT flash On and Off: this test result exonerates the Ignition Coil, since without this Switching Signal, it won’t Spark. The most likely cause of this missing Switching Signal is either a BAD Ignition Control Module (ICM) or a BAD Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor (which is Ford’s fancy name for the Crank Sensor). I have written an article that will help you to test both of these at: .) If your Ford vehicle has the Ignition Control Module mounted on the Distributor, go to: Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Module & PIP Sensor Test (this article is found at easyautodiagnostics.com). If your Ford vehicle has the Ignition Control Module mounted on the Fender, go to: Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Module & PIP Sensor Test (this article is found at easyautodiagnostics.com). ow Does the Ignition Coil Work When you turn the key and start cranking the Engine, this is what happens (in a nutshell, that is): The Ignition Control Module (ICM) and the Ignition Coil get Power (12 Volts). The Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor, which is the Crank Sensor in Fords, gets power from the ICM and as the engine Cranks it starts to generate a Crank Signal (called the PIP Signal) that is received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). When the ICM gets the PIP Signal, it starts to Switch the Ignition Coil ON and OFF by interrupting the Ignition Coil’s Primary Voltage Once the Ignition Coil gets this Switching Signal, it starts to Spark away... which cause your Ford to start.. Why the HEI Spark Tester? If you have read any of my Ignition System Test Articles, you’ll notice that I’m always writing the article around the HEI Spark Tester. Why? Well for several reasons and they are: The HEI Spark Tester is accurate and this will save you money making your diagnostic reach the right conclusion and this will keep you from replacing good parts. How? Well, no other Spark Tester stress tests the Ignition Coil or the Spark Plug Wire (High Tension Wire) like the HEI Spark Tester. The stress test that the HEI Spark Tester puts the Ignition Coil under, produces a Spark or a No Spark Test result you can take to the bank. The HEI Spark Tester does not cost an arm and a leg. It usually retails for around 10 to 14 US dollars (don’t have an HEI Spark Tester? Need to buy one? You can buy it here: KD Tools 2756 Ignition Tester Calibrated For HEI Ignitions). You don’t have to interpret the color of the Spark on the HEI Spark Tester. On some Spark Testers, it’s suggested that you have to interpret the color of the Spark (which is total BS in the first place... since the color of the Spark has nothing to do with anything). If the HEI Spark Tester sparks, the Spark is present and strong enough. If it doesn’t Spark, then you have a bona-fide No Spark result you can trust In the long years I’ve spent working as a Diagnostic Automotive Technician, I have used a lot of different tools to test for Spark and from personal experience I know it works and I can therefore recommend it to you..." SEE SITE for DIAGRAMS Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD) Testing; using Ford's EEC Breakout Box, but many tests can be performed w/a MM, Air Gap Spark Tester or Neon Bulb Spark Tester or equivalent, etc. Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Cylinder Balance Test; NOTE: This test is only available on 95 Bronco w/1995 CA/MAF/SFI PCM (BIO0) & 96 Bronco; & Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI) Engines. "...The Cylinder Balance test on the 5.0L SEFI and 5.0L SEFI MA vehicles is designed to aid in the detection of a noncontributing cylinder. The Cylinder Balance test, first reads engine rpm, with all injectors activated. Next, each injector is turned "off and on," one at a time. The rpm drop that results, if any, is then read. These two rpm's are compared to verify that the rpm drop was greater than a calibrated level. The Cylinder Balance Test service codes correspond with cylinder number followed by a "O" on a scanner. Example 20 = cyl #2. 1. Perform Engine Running Self-Test. 2. After the last repeated service code is received, wait 5-10 seconds. 3. Lightly depress and release throttle (not wide-open throttle) within two mintutes of the last repeated service code. 4. Cylinder Balance Test will be per formed at the first test level.Test time is approximately three minutes..." read more Source: by Tomco Inc. tomco-inc.com Detonation and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illumination with DTCs 332, P1407, and/or P1408 May Occur Under Normal Driving Conditions TSB 96-23-4 for Various Cars; Just because the vehicle is not listed in the TSB doesn’t mean you may not have a clogging problem; Figures are missing see Tomco Link Titled, DTC 332, P1407 and P1408 or detonation Source: by Ford via way2old at fordforum.com Diagnosis & Troubleshooting, Simple Tests,Chapter 11, in Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993 Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru Diode Pattern Waveforms, Bad; "...This waveform was captured using the diode pattern test located in the engine tests menu. This particular alternator has a bad rectifier, causing an AC voltage to ride on top of the DC voltage signal. This AC voltage affected the pip and spout signals (Ford primary ignition signals) causing a no code driveability problem. The fix was to replace the alternator. This waveform was captured using the diode pattern test located in the engine tests menu. This alternator, like the previous alternator, has a bad rectifier. This is another example of how a bad rectifier can affect the diode pattern. The fix was to replace the alternator. This waveform was captured using the lab scope. This is a good example of how an alternator with a bad diode can affect other signals that the ECM looks at. In this case it is an IAC motor. When viewing waveforms that have a lot of hash always look at the alternator diode pattern as a possible cause..." Source: by omitec.com Distributor Overview, Wiring Diagram & Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96; "NOTE: Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay with the key on will cause the TFI-IV ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will not correct the timing. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle for adjusting base timing." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Distributor Vacuum and Vent Control Valve Depiction; This is a combination vent valve and spark delay valve. This valve vents vacuum from the distributor diaphragm in idle or wide open throttle and delays vacuum advance during light acceleration to help improve exhaust emissions. - 80.6 MB pdf Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com Distributor Vacuum Control Valve Depiction; The distributor control valves listed in this catalog may be either the Type 1 or Type 2 as illustrated. These valves control vacuum to the distributor affecting spark advance. - 80.6 MB pdf Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com DTC 14 & 18; Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Troubleshooting; "...The top three leads (for PIP signal) can lose continuity with the back plate (ground) on the module when the unit is hot. You should consider a remote mounted TFI. If your TFI is failing from heat, it can give off computer codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT). stalling/dieing or sputtering when hot but runs when it cools off. This can be caused by a faulty TFI and the biggest culprits are heat. Another culprit can be a wire grounding out. Problematic TFI's can give off codes 14 (PIP) and 18 (SPOUT)..." read more Source: by therangerstation.com DTC 18 - Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Source: by Matthew W at autorepair.about.com DTC 18 IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded Source: by Ford via Ben Watson in How to Tune and Modify Ford Fuel Injection via books.google.com DTC 18 IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded; "...The computer sends out a timing advance correction to the ICM over the SPOUT wire and then looks for the change on the IDM wire. You might check the ECT or the IAT sensor for your problem. Also check the SPOUT/IDM wire going to ground..." Source: by freeautomechanic.com DTC 18 or 212; Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) Source: by Joe D via fordfuelinjection.com DTC 18 or 212; Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) Troubleshooting; "...Identifying the correct module for your vehicle can be accomplished in a number of ways. First, always refer to the correct application in the Engine Management catalog. If that information is not available, check the wiring of the vehicle. If pin # 4 of the module gets a start signal (which should be battery voltage) from the starter circuit, it's a "Push Start" system. On the other hand, if pin #4 of the module is wired directly to pin #4 of the ECM, then it's a CCD system (refer to diagram #5)..." READ MUCH MORE Miesk5 NOTE; use BLACK Modules in 94-96 Broncos Source: by Joe D at carquest.com DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. Possible causes: Loose wires/connectors. Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.). On-board transmitter (2-way radio).* Source: by Jim at justanswer.com DTC 211, P0340, P0341, P0344 & Possible Causes & Repair Procedures for E4OD from 1996 All F-Series and Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com DTC 211; "...code set when the ignition module fails, the pickup coil inside the distributor, or the engine computer. The most common of the three is the coil inside the distributor..." Source: by RIP at justanswer.com DTC 211; Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95; Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT) Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net DTC 211; Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211 TSB 95-15-11 in 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT) Source: by Ford via justanswer.com DTC 212 - Loss of IDM input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded. Continuous Memory DTC 212 indicates a loss of IDM input to the PCM. "..Possible causes: 1. Check for the short to ground possibility in the SPOUT wire (to ECM side and to ICM side) as suggested above. 2. IDM wire from Ignition Control Module (ICM) to ECM integrity (open, short to ground or power). 3. ICM was already replaced 4. If all the above checks OK......the ECM will be the one to blame..." Source: by Joel5.0 at allfordmustangs.com DTC 212 indicates a loss of IDM input to the PCM; "...Open harness circuit. Shorted harness circuit. Damaged Ignition Control Module (ICM). Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM)..." READ MORE Source: by Jim at justanswer.com DTC 212; "...IDM is a feedback signal generated by the ignition system and is monitored at pin #4 of the ECM. Its purpose is to diagnose missed ignition primary pulses at the time the ECM commands the Spout signal to fire the coil. Since it is used solely for diagnostic purposes, if this circuit is not operating properly, it will not affect vehicle driveability; & by Seattle FSB- The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal is a diagnostic signal for the PCM to to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal. If an erratic or missing IDM signal is received, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC 212) is set. An occasional IDM signal may not affect drivability, but can still throw a trouble code. As SigEpBlue has stated, check for an intermittent ground on the spOUT and/or IDM circuit. Also, ensure that you have the correct Ignition Control Module (ICM) and it is wired correctly to the PCM..." Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) & by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB DTC 213 (R) Ignition SPOUT or SAW circuit open or shorted Pin-Point Test; Before proceeding with this Pinpoint Test, verify that the base timing check in Diagnostic Subroutine has been performed. Key off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. PCM disconnected.[/B] (be careful, I hate to touch that connector!) Key on, engine off. Measure voltage between Test Pin 37 and Test Pin 40. Measure voltage between Test Pin 57 and Test Pin 60. Is each voltage greater than 10.5 volts? If not, see DTC 211 in TSB 95-15-11 for possible open/short location Source: by Ford miesk5 at FSB DTC 213; "...Code 213 - has a host of possible meanings. The first being as you stated, SPOUT circuit open. Yours obviously is not and you noted the change when you pull the shorting plug. So, this could be an intermittent problem which would need to be troubleshot by clearing Codes and checking to see if it returned. If not, then you may have wiring with sketchy connections. If Code 213 returns immediately, you may have a partial TFI/ICM (grey plastic module on the driver's inner fender in a heat sink between the power distro and the hood spring) issue. The SPOUT signal runs through it before getting all the way back to the ECM. My suggestion would be to replace the TFI/ICM if you still have Code 213 after clearing and retesting and cannot find any obvious wiring faults. The module is engine/model/year specific. I haven't purchased one in a while but before assuming it has failed and since you have intermittent issues, you might do the "wiggle" test. Believe it or not, this is an actual Ford-authorized procedure to check for loose or weak wiring connections. It is carried out much as you might expect. With the truck running, start WIGGLING connections and wiring near and in line with the TFI/ICM module to determine if you can MAKE the problem happen. If so, you can repair the connections or wiring damage. If not, replacing the module may be the last option. They average $90-100 for the Motorcraft units online. You can find less expensive aftermarket units but I don't recommend them simply because reliability can be an issue..." Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B) at fte DTC 67 Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) Circuit Open; "...In some cases all of us at one time or another have had to "jiggle' the column shifter to get the vehicle to start because over time things losen up from DD useage.....in the Haynes Manual transmission section and www.broncolinks.com there's a diagram referring to "Point A" which is the column shift linkage and the transmission tab. A sure way to correct the "jiggling" is to go underneath the BKO on the drivers side and LOSEN the "nut" on column shift linkage and tranny tab JUST ENOUGH to click the tranny tab all the way back until it stops then 2 clicks forward and tighten the "nut".....now the column shift linkage and transmission are in sync when you go thru the grears, assuming the steering column is in resonable condition this should help correct that problem.......TOO MANY TIMES THE NSS IS DEEMED THE CULPRIT for none start when it isn't so this is a simple check to make sure. There is also another PRNDDL adjustment, but you need to remove the black plastic collar on the steering wheel, this is usually done when an actuator breaks and using pliers drive the rod downward with key on to start.....there is usually a white cable that wraps around and attached to a small mm screw IIRC that when lossened a bit it allows you to adjust the "needle" that registers on each letter of the PRNDDL..be careful because it's attached with a very fine wire loop and easily broken. The "upper ignition actuator" is another culprit because they're made of cheap pot metal.....and a PITA job to do..." Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB DTC P0171 & P0174 Lean Troubleshooting; "...These codes commonly occur on many Ford vehicles, and are set when the powertrain control module (PCM) sees the air/fuel mixture is running too lean (too much air, not enough fuel). Unmetered air can enter the engine through a vacuum leak, a dirty airflow sensor (MAF) that is not reading airflow accurately, an EGR valve is not closing (DPFE) and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, an EGR valve that is allowing too much flow (because the EGR differential pressure sensor that monitors EGR flow is faulty and is under-reporting EGR flow). If the problem is not enough fuel, the underling cause may be a weak fuel pump, restricted fuel filter, leaky fuel pressure regulator or dirty fuel injectors..." Source: by Larry C at AA1Car.com DTC P0300 Random; Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected; Symptoms, Causes & Possible Solutions Source: by obd-codes.com DTC P0300, P0302, P030X, Random; Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected; Symptoms, Causes & Possible Solutions Source: by miesk5 at FSB DTC P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency below Threshold (Bank 1); Symptoms, Causes & Possible Solutions; Retarded spark timing Source: by obd-codes.com DTC P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Circuit Input Fault "...P1351 can occur if the Igniton Module was replaced with the Gray one instead of a Black one. The ICM Should be Black in color for the CCD Type Module. Many Ford parts sources are incorrect and show that this vehicle should have a Grey module. The Motorcraft part number for the BLACK CCD Ignition Modules is a DY1077 (supercedes DY679, DY667, DY645)..." Source: by miesk at FSB DTC P1359 Spark output circuit condition; ECM detected no SPOUT signal from distributor. Probable Cause: SPOUT connector missing; Open circuit condition; Ignition control module fault. 1. Check the Spark Output (SPOUT) connector near the Ignition Control Module (ICM) at the rear of driver side fender apron (near hood hinge) to see if the SPOUT connector is missing or is making poor contact to the connector. 2. If the SPOUT connector & connection appear to be in good condition, install a timing light onto #1 spark plug wire and check for timing advance at idle with the engine running. Ignition timing should indicate 10 degrees BTDC with the SPOUT connector removed but timing should then advance when the connector is plugged back in. 3. If there is no timing advance using a timing light, check the Pink (PK) wire at the ICM connection for a square-wave signal as the engine is running using a labscope. 4. If there is no signal present on the PK wire, check the PK wire between the ICM and PCM pin 50 for an open circuit. 5. If the circuit checks to be OK and ignition timing appears to be advancing over base timing with the SPOUT connector installed, clear the code, disconnect the voltage regulator at the alternator and drive the vehicle for several miles to check for the light to illuminate and the code to reset. 6. Check coil output of all individual spark plug wire ends to verify that spark will jump a 1/2-3/4" gap consistently and that it has a bluish tint of color to it. 7. If spark output is weak or erratic, replace the coil and re-check for the setting of the service code. 8. Also inspect all plug wires ends for potential pin-hole leaks that could allow spark to arc to the cylinder heads in the plug well. Run a grounded screw driver up and down the plug wire boot as the wire is connected to a spark tester to determine if any of the wires are faulty. 9. If timing advance appears to be working properly and there are no electrical issues related to the alternator, coil or plug wires, either the PCM or the ICM will need to be substituted to determine if one of them is causing the condition. See diagram by Ford via Steve83 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/833750_1 1996 is CCD H. read more Source: by miesk5 at FSB DTCs & Possible Causes; P1130 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Fuel Trim at Limit, P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input, P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit High Input, P0106 - Barometric (BARO) Pressure Sensor Circuit Performnce, P0107 - BARO Sensor Low Voltage Detected, P0108 - BARO Sensor High Voltage Detected, P0109 - BARO Sensor Circuit Intermittent, P0112 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Circuit Low Input, P0113 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Circuit High Input, P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input, P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit High Input, P0121 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Performance Problem, P0122 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Low Input, P0123 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit High Input, P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control, P0127 - Intake Air Temperature Too High, P0131 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Out of Range Low Voltage (HO2S-11), P0133 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Slow Response (HO2S-11), P0135 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-11), P0136 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-12), P0141 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-125), P0151 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Out of Range Low Voltage (HO2S-21) See DTC P0131, P0153 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Slow Response (HO2S-21) See DTC P0133, P0155 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-21) See DTC P0135, P0156 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-22) See DTC P0136, P0161 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-22) See DTC P0135, P0171 - System to Lean (Bank 1) The Adaptive Fuel Strategy continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The test fails when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit., P0172 - System to Rich (Bank 1), P0174 - System to Lean (Bank 2), P0175 - System to Rich (Bank 2), P0176 - Flexible Fuel (FF) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0180 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input (EFT), P0181 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance (EFT), P0182 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input (EFT), P0183 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input (EFT). P0186 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance (EFT) See DTC P0181. P0187 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Low Input (EFT). See DTC P0182. P0188 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit High Input (EFT) See DTC P0183, P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (FRP), P0191 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Performance (FRP), P0192 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input (FRP), P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input (FRP), P0201 through P0212 - Cylinder #1 through Cylinder #12 Injector Circuits, P0217 - Engine Coolant Over-Temperature Condition, P0230 - Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction, P0231 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low, P0232 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High, P0234 - Supercharger Overboost Condition, P0243 - Supercharger (Boost) Bypass Solenoid Circuit Malfunction, P0298 - Engine Oil Over Temperature Condition, P0300 - Random Misfire, P0301 through P0310 - Misfire Detection Monitor, P0320 - Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction, P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1), P0326 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/ Performance (Bank 1), P0330 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2), P0331 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/performance (Bank 2), P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0350 - Ignition Coil (Undetermined) Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction, P0351 Through P0360 - Ignition Coil A through J Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction, P0401 - EGR Flow Insufficient Detected, P0402 - EGR Flow Excessive Detected, P0411 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system upstream flow See DTC P1411, P0412 - Secondary Air Injection System (AIR) circuit malfunction, P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1), P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2), P0442 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak), P0443 - EVAP Control System Canister Purge Valve Circuit Malfunction, P0451 - FTP Sensor Circuit Noisy, P0452 - FTP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Detected, P0453 - FTP Sensor Circuit High Voltage Detected, P0455 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (No Purge Flow or Large Leak), P0456 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Very Small Leak), P0457 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Filler Cap Loose/Off), P0460 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Malfunction, P0501 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Range/ Performance, P0503 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Intermittent, P0503 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Intermittent, P0505 - Idle Air Control System Malfunction, P0552 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0553 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0602 - Control Module Programming Error, P0603 - Powertrain Control Module KAM Test Error, P0605 - PCM Read Only Memory (ROM) error, P0703 - Brake Switch Circuit Input Malfunction, P0704 - Clutch Pedal Position Switch Malfunction, P0720 - Insufficient input from Output Shaft Speed sensor, P0721 - Noise interference on Output Shaft Speed sensor signal, P0722 - No signal from Output Shaft Speed sensor, P0723 - Output Shaft Speed sensor circuit intermittent failure, P0812 - Reverse Switch (RS) input circuit malfunction, P1000 - Monitor Testing Not Complete, P1001 - KOER Not Able To Complete, KOER Aborted, P1100 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Intermittent, P1101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1109 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Sensor Intermittent, P1112 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Intermittent, P1114 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit Low Input, P1115 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit High Input, P1116 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1117 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Intermittent, P1120 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Out of Range Low (RATCH too Low), P1121 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Inconsistent with MAF Sensor, P1124 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1125 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Intermittent, P1127 - Exhaust Not Warm Enough, Downstream Sensor Not Tested, P1128 - Upstream Oxygen Sensors Swapped from Bank to Bank (HO2S-11-21), P1129 - Downstream Oxygen Sensors Swapped from Bank to Bank (HO2S-12-22), P1130 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Fuel Trim at Limit, P1131 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean. READ MORE Source: by Steve at justanswer.com DTCs 2 & 3 digits & some Possible Causes, MANY CODES! Source: by minivanmadness via replay.web.archive.org/ DTCs 2 digits & some Possible Causes Source: by Geargambler at svtsnake.com DTCs 2 digits & some Possible Causes, MANY CODES! Source: by Tomco Inc. tomco-inc.com DTCs 2 digits & some Possible Causes, MANY CODES! Source: by minivanmadness via replay.web.archive.org DTCs 2 digits & some Possible Causes; MANY CODES! Source: by whateverittakesracing.com DTCs 3 digits Source: by Geargambler at svtsnake.com DTCs 3 digits Source: by whateverittakesracing.com DTCs 3 digits & some Possible Causes, MANY CODES! Source: by minivanmadness via replay.web.archive.org DTCs 3 digits & some Possible Causes; MANY CODES (for Aussie Fords, but similar) Source: by fordmods.com DTCs 3 digits & some Possible Causes; MANY CODES! Source: by slingblade at The National Lightning Owners Club DTCs, OBD II & Possible Causes MANY! Source: by diydiagnostics.com via web.archive.org DTCs, OBD II Search Source: by Wells DTCs. OBD II Source: by bba-reman.com Duraspark 2 Troubleshooting Source: by arrc.epnet.com Duraspark 2 Troubleshooting (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section Source: by Chilton via AutoZone Duraspark Troubleshooting Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Duraspark Troubleshooting Source: by bobcat.ca E4OD Controls Overview, Sensors, DTC (s) & Diagram; On gasoline engines, the profile ignition pickup sensor sends a signal to the powertrain control module indicating the engine rpm and the crankshaft position..Engine will stall or miss. DTC; 211, P0340, P0341, P0344..." READ MUCH MORE Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net EEC IV Self Test Connector pic in a 95 (near driver's side hood hinge) Source: by s8c2 (the wagon) at SuperMotors.net EEC IV Strategies Source: by Ford via miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery EEC IV TFI Module & PIP Sensor New Diagnostic Procedure TSB 87-21-10; "NEW PROCEDURE ALLOWS TECHNICIAN TO TAKE DIRECT PATH WHEN TESTING WITH USE OF NEW TFI IV DIAGNOSTIC TESTER" Source: by Ford via merkurencyclopedia.com EEC-IV SELF TEST - COMPREHENSIVE & Connector Location pic, Bronco & Ford; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Fix any codes from the KOEO test before you do the running test (KOER, key on, engine running). Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function; miesk5 Note; Steve83 advises; "...If the CEL is burned out, connect CEL (C) to a 12V test light, and the light's other terminal to a 12V source on the same vehicle..." Source: by dabranco at FSB EEC-IV Self Test Connector Pin-Out Diagrams & Color Codes Source: by miesk5 at FSB EEC-IV System Has NO Control Over the Following Items; "...Fuel quantity and quality; Damaged or faulty ignition components; Internal Engine Condition - rings, valves, Timing belt, etc.; Starter & Battery circuit; Dual Hall sensor; TFI or DIS module; Distributor condition or function; Camshaft sensor; Crankshaft sensor; Ignition or DIS coil; Engine governor module..." Source: by Ford via arrc.epnet.com Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) for an 86 (Partial); Speed Control on pages 135-139, A/C & Heater on pages 140-145, Radio on pages 127-129 Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at telus.net Electrical Symbols in an 86 from Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Partial Source: by Ford via Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at telus.net Electronic Modules, Protection From Damage by Static Electricity TSB 88-13-3 for All Light Truck Lines, etc. Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com Explanation of 3-Digit Codes & MIL TSB 92-24-03 for 91-93 Bronco, F Series and Many Others Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com Fires: ignition switch could experience an internal short circuit which can cause overheating, smoke, and fire in the steering column area in 88-93 Source: by safetyforum.com Freeze Frame Data & No Codes; Another advantage of OBD II is the freeze frame data function of the scan tool. Whenever an emissions related DTC is set, the MIL will illuminate and a freeze frame will be set in the PCM’s memory. The freeze frame should contain, but isn’t limited to, the following data: Engine load (calculated) , Engine RPM , Short- and long-term fuel trim, Vehicle speed, Coolant temperature, Intake manifold pressure, Open/closed loop operation, Fuel pressure (if available), DTC; In this generic scan tool feature, you can’t get DTCs. But you can get a serial data stream that will update a minimum of two times a second. More importantly, you will have access to at least 16 data parameters and a 66-frame movie of ECU/PCM data. The most important function of any scan tool is to diagnose intermittent problems. Listed below are my reasons why the movie/snap-shot is so valuable! On slower baud rate systems, [b]an out-of-range sensor may take several frames of data before a DTC is set. But it would still cause a noticeable driveability problem on the vehicle. And it still might not set a DTC. Duplicating the customer’s complaint with a road test and a movie/ snap-shot may be the only way to properly diagnose the vehicle..." READ MORE Source: by Gary G at asashop.org Fuel Injector Test; "...With eveything connected normally & the key in RUN, pierce the OTHER wire (not the Red one) on any ONE injector & tap it BRIEFLY to ground. Do you hear half the injectors click open & then closed? Put a finger on each one to feel which ones are working. If some of them don't open, repeat the test, holding the ground SLIGHTLY longer each time, but never more than 3 sec continuously...Repeat this for the 2nd bank of injectors (just one with a different color wire)..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Hall Effect Sensor Overview & Diagram, Ford TFI; the Hall Effect Signal is called the “Profile Ignition Pick-up” (PIP) signal. Corroded connectors between the Hall Effect PIP unit in the distributor and the TFI module on the distributor housing are common. Replacing the sensor isn’t as easy on these applications because you have to R&R the distributor shaft. Source: by Wells Manufacturing wellsmfgcorp.com Ignition Circuit Diagram in 87-91 (figure 3) (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Ignition Control (IC) Module Inspection & Replacement Recall 94E52 for 95 Model E & F Series as follows: Kentucky Truck Plant 11/23 Thru 28, 1994; Lorain Assembly 11/22 Thru 28, 1994; Norfolk Assembly 11/22 Thru 29, 1994 Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Ignition Control (IC) Module Location pics (near driver's side hood hinge) & info in a 96 5.8; "...Spout connector wires go into ignition module wiring connector..." Source: by DNBELOWBRONCO (Kevin, Labor of Love) at SuperMotors.net Ignition Control Module Location in Engine Bay Diagram in 92-96 Source: by Ford via miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery Ignition Control Module Part Numbers Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB Ignition Control Module pic in a 96 Source: by buzzbronco (BIG HUNY) at SuperMotors.net Ignition Diagnosis, Ford Source: by Wells wellsmfgcorp.com Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) Location Video in an 86 Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM); "...Ford turned to a CCD (computer-controlled dwell) ignition module sometime between 1993 and 1995. One type is referred to as the Push Start type, while the other is called the CCD (Computer Controlled Dwell) type. The Push Start module gets its name from the 4th pin on the module connector, which is a start signal inputfrom the starting system. When the module receives this 12 volt input, it increases or Pushes the ignition coil dwell for maximum coil output for easier starting. The CCD module does not use a start signal input, but does rely upon the ECM Spout input to control ignition coil primary dwell. By the way, ECM Spout controls ignition timing on both module systems. Both Push Start and CCD systems produce an IDM signal, however, they do it in different ways. The Push Start system uses an external 22K ohm resistor (22,000 ohms) that is usually taped to the wiring harness that is connected to the negative terminal of the ignition coil. [On our trucks, it is usually located in the harness between the engine and the driver's side fender] This resistor is used to lower the voltage of the Tach signal being supplied to pin #4 of the ECM. This external resistor is not used on the CCD system since it is part of the internal circuitry of the module, which produces the IDM signal. So, the IDM signal travels from pin #4 of the module directly to pin #4 of the ECM..." Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Troubleshooting (dn file) Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com Ignition Lock Cylinder Adjustment & Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in an 83; "...The following proceedure is from the 1983 Ford Service manual, with a few minor wording changes, but should work for any year. Also included are a couple of illustrations from the same proceedure to help you visualize it..." Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Ignition Modules (Ford & other makes) General Descriptions; "...A major cause of failure is heat... especially typical on Ford, is intermittent failure. The car runs okay for a while, then stops. When it cools, it runs okay for a while longer. Then it stops again. And so on. This is a fairly certain indication of a heat failure fault which can be prevented from recurring by using the heat-resistant module replacement offered by us -- and you. All transistors and other solid state components have specific temperature ranges within which they work. If they go outside the temperature range, they either stop working or destroy themselves. Vibration is another enemy of the module since it causes the circuit path to break on the printed circuit board. Testing with simple, hand-held testers (figures 6) will tell the story. Every mechanic who works on domestic cars and engines needs a tester like this one. And many DIYs will have them, too. A third failure mode (figure 6) is mishandling or poor installation technique, especially with the small and somewhat fragile GM unit. It doesn't take much effort with a screwdriver, nor more than a small particle of sand or dirt on the mounting plate, to fracture the case of the GM module. In addition, heat dissipation (figure 7) is accomplished only if the right type of heat-conductive silicone grease is used between the module and the mounting plate. Poor ground connections are another failure mode. All modules must have a good connection between their cases and their mounting surfaces. A fifth failure mode is corrosion of the terminals. Bad connections fail a lot of systems. A sixth failure mode comes from applying improper voltages to the system. Most of these devices are protected from hooking up the battery or connectors backward. However, none of them is protected from over-voltage -- such as that applied when a mechanic gangs up a couple of 12-volt batteries to give an additional starting boost to a hard starting engine. Recap, Modules, used with trigger mechanisms, replace the points and condenser used in conventional contact-breaker or coil-and-breaker systems. Different manufacturers have different names for their modules. GM calls their a (module) (contacter), Ford calls theirs a (module) (modulator assembly), and Chrysler calls theirs a (controller) (control module)..." Source: by napaechlin.com via web.archive.org Ignition or Static in AM Band TSB 90-3-12 for 89-90 Bronco, F Series, & Econoline; may be caused by a defective radio suppression capacitor or an open circuit at the connector shell. Source: by Ford via Chilton Ignition Switch Key Hard to Turn in Cold (in Non-Tilt) TSB 95-23-12 for 89-91 Bronco, F Series, Econoline & Medium, Heavy Duty trucks Source: by Ford via Chilton Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing (Logic Tables) in 80-91 & 92-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagram in a 95 Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at chrisb.users.SuperMotors.net Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagrams, early & late models Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection Ignition Switch Pin-Out Diagrams, early & late models Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB Ignition Switch Troubleshhoting in 87-91 (figure 2) (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell) Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Ignition System Diagnostic Procedures in a 92 from 1992 2 PCED On Board Diagnostics Source: by SMTBob at justanswer.com Ignition Timing Vacuum Switch Depiction; The ignition timing vacuum switch is used on certain earlier models and through vacuum, signals the ignition module to retard spark timing. The amount of retard is controlled by two calibration resistors inside the switch assembly. - 80.6 MB pdf Source: by Ford fordinstallersupport.com Ignition Wiring Diagrams in an 89 Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Intermittent No-Spark: Spark w/SPOUT Connector Un-Plugged, but Falter and/or No-Spark w/SPOUT Connected (similar to Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark); "It seems that the insulation around many PIP sensors breaks down prematurely - a condition that leads to shorting of the wires leading to the TFI ignition module. I always replace a PIP sensor along with a defective ignition module, if it has "soft" insulation..."; etc. (for a Ranger, but similar); Note, site won't allow you to return to this page, so open URL in a new Window; SEE Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or DTC 211, TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT) by Ford via Steve83 at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/470468 Source: by Brian M at asashop.org Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 85; "...Check the ignition switch. It is either out of adjustment or needs to be replaced..." Source: by all-parts.com Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 85; and need to shake the wheel to get the truck to start, how do i remove it? in an 85; "...There was a recall on the ing switch but i think it only went back to 1988,that could be your problem,lower column and check,there is also a rod that runs from the key switch to the ing switch,that rod is prone to breaking,remove steering wheel and take off horn assembly and remove steering wheel,you will see what to do from there..." Source: by all-parts.com Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 86. Also, the shifter seems to be stuck in Park; "...The part that broke is called the rack actuator. I have enclosed a picture of it for your reference. To replace it, the upper portion of the column needs to be disassembled. If you are comfortable doing that, you will need to remove the following parts to gain access..." read more Source: by Douglas G at en.allexperts.com Key Moves Freely & Won't Engage the Starter in an 87; all of the accessories come on but there is no action by the starter also even with the key on I can not shift the truck out of park; "...The lock cylinder that you replaced is connected by linkage to a electrical ignition switch on your steering column. This switch is known to come apart. It is plastic mounted to a metal base with small tabs that hold it together. If you replace the switch it should solve your problem..." Source: by all-parts.com Key Stuck in Park Position; "...This is from da 96 Owners Guide; page 60; "...If the key is stuck in the LOCK position, move the steering wheel left or right until the key turns freely... If your vehicle’s gearshift lever is mounted on the column: 1. Put the gearshift in Park. 2. Set the parking brake fully before removing your foot from the service brake. (This will avoid “binding” or “loading” the park gear if you park on a grade.) 3. Turn the ignition key to LOCK 4. Remove the key; This happens at times on the 96; since it was new; so I do it da Ford way above; good idea too since it ops the parking brake thus avoiding cable/conduit freezes Try "jigglin'" the strg wheel a bit while gently trying the key; if a no-go... You may need to jack-up the front tires..." Source: by miesk5 at FSB Key-in-Ignition Warning Switch Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 88-91 Non-Tilt Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) Introduction TSB 88-05-07 for 88 Bronco, F series, & all others Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com Misfire Diagnosis Source: by miesk5 at FSB Misfiring, Rough Idle, Surge, & Ping-Knock Symptoms, due to a Magnetized Shutter Wheel, (Bronco & all Fords w/EEC IV & TFI); "...Inside the TFI distributor is a Hall-Effect sensor that provides an RPM and POSITION signal to the Ignition module and ECM for fuel and ignition control. Mounted to the distributor shaft is a "shutter-wheel" that passes through the Hall-Effect sensor. The slots or windows cut in the shutter-wheel are what makes the Hall-Effect sensor switch on/off to create the signal it sends out. The shutter-wheel is supposed to be a piece of "dead" steel but can become magnetized. A magnetized wheel can cause very erratic operation of the Hall-Effect and resulting erratic output signal. The Test: There are a couple of ways to check for this condition. One is to simply pull off the distributor cap and see if something steel will "stick" to the shutter-wheel. Make sure that whatever you are using to check the wheel with isn't magnetized itself. A more accurate method would be to watch the wave-form on the "SPOUT" wire with a Vantage or Lab-Scope. The SPOUT is the wire with the connector in it that you unplug to set ignition timing. Monitor the wave-pattern on the SPOUT with the timing-connector in. If there is anything erratic about the wave-form, unplug the timing connector and re-check the wave-form. If the pattern "cleans up" all of a sudden, chances are good that you have a magnetized shutter-wheel. The Fix: Most shutter-wheels can be removed from the distributor shaft with a couple of screws. Everybody seems to have their own way of de-magnetizing the wheels but good success has been had with bulk audio-tape erasers or by placing the wheel in an engine parts cleaning oven and baking it. That last one sounds weird but it works..." Scroll down Source: by snapon.com via archive.org Misfiring/Pinging due to Improper Spark Plug Wire Routing for 94-96 5.0 HO - INCLUDES 5.8; Caused by Crossfire between #7 & #8 Spark Plug Wire Source: by Larry H at mightyautoparts.com Misfiring/Pinging due to Improper Spark Plug Wire Routing for 94-96 5.0 HO/ and 5.8, Caused by Crossfire between #7 & #8 Spark Plug Wire Source: by Jim G at alldata.com MSD Ignition Testing Source: by msdignition.com MSD Troubleshooting Source: by msdignition.com NO CODE; IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) Overview; "...HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced. NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned ON. The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal..." Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net No Spark Troubleshooting, General; "...Secondary ignition voltage can shock you. Do NOT hold or touch a spark plug wire while cranking the engine. disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. You can insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot), or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition problem..." Source: by aa1car.com No Spark Troubleshooting, Overview & Operation; "...Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module..." most is applicable to Broncos, read more; MIESK5 NOTEs; the rotary armature (ARMATURE, also called the Ignition Reluctor) has open areas called windows and tabs called vanes; stator is a Hall Effect device, which uses a magnetic field. It sits under the distributor cap and picks up a signal from the ARMATURE. this armature that has open areas called windows and tabs, called vanes. & ...The ARMATURE has the same number of teeth as cylinders in the engine and moves at the same speed as the distributor and camshaft. If you have a V8 then the ARMATURE has eight teeth; seven teeth are the same and one tooth is smaller to identify cylinder #1. As the ARMATURE spins with the distributor is breaks the magnetic field of the hall device generating a sine wave. This sine wave is called the raw Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal and indicates the engine status at 10deg. BTDC. Now some people think the TFI is responsible for this, but that is incorrect; the PIP signal passes thru the TFI unaltered to the computer...(by Ryan M) Source: by therangerstation.com No Start & Start, but when Starting Runs & No DTCs in a 96; "...As far as the signals in/out for spark and fuel between the EEC-IV/V they are basicly the same. Yes I know there is a makeshift crankshaft positioner for mis-fire detection, but that is probably not the issue here. I looked some info on one of my Service cds to compare the EEC-IV and EEC-V signals. Both use the PIP, SPOUT and IDM signals. According to the manual the PCM uses the PIP signal to trigger the injectors. So I would suspect a possible missing PIP signal. I am not /100%.jpg clear what the IDM signal does. I did have one other thought around midnight last night: Both systems will shut off the injectors if the TPS signal indicates full throttle when in the Start mode. What if the OPs TPS was shorted? This would send the +5V reference signal directly through to the feedback signal. Easy check: disconnect the TPS, then try to start. Next I would start verifying the PIP and possibly the IDM signals are getting back to the PCM..." MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}. Source: by rla2005 (Randy) at FSB No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com No Start in an 86; "...He turned the key onto crank(nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD(with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch(it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die)..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB No Start Troubleshooting, EFI; for a Mustang but many tips are applicable Source: by jrichker via Seijirou at FSB No Start Troubleshooting, general Source: by Vincent C at autorepair.about.com No Start Troubleshooting; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)/Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or NSS/MLPS with an AOD/E4OD, to the starter relay and the on to the starter solenoid (if equipped) and starter. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to the Park/NSS/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground or a bad starter. Check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS/MLPS) Or clutch safety switch. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ /gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a small jumper; MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}. Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB No Start Troubleshooting; "...If you can't start the Bronco from the key/cylinder it might be the "upper ignition actuator" has broken in it's track inside the steering wheel OR could be just the key cylinder itself which "pops out" if you look right under it on the metal column collar, there's a little slot and with the key turned to RUN -engine off push up inside with an appropriate tool and comes right out. You can either jump start the vehicle from the "starter relay" under the hood, right inside fender area or pull off the "black plastic cosmetic column shroud" exposing a long 'ROD" and with the key turned to RUN using a set of pliers, drive the ROD downward/forward and the vehicle will start with most key functions intact....i.e, RUN/NO START, OFF/LOCK, AUX..." Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB No Start, Testing, Overview & Diagram in a 95 from Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums No Start; & Relay Connection pic in 92-96; "...The relay trigger wire (LG/R) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N. The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter. 130A & heavier alternators use 2 fusible link wires. The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net No Start; Testing, Overview & Diagram in a 95 from Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual Source: by Ford via Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums OBD II Test Connector Location pic in a 96; Boss Has a cord plugged into it (end rolled up on tranny hum carpet) in this pic; is under of ashtray, to right Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at FSB OBD II Test Connector Location pic in a 96; Boss Has a cord plugged into it (end rolled up on tranny hum carpet) in this pic; is under of ashtray, to right Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at SuperMotors.net PIP Magnets Repair Tip in an 88 Source: by chaosmp5 (Big Ugly) at FSB PO30_ "misfire detection monitor, a software strategy built into the computer, is designed to detect an engine misfire. The computer can also normally identify the specific cylinder in which the misfire has occurred. A misfire is nothing more than a lack of combustion, which can be caused by poor fuel quality or metering, low compression, lack of spark or unmetered air entering the engine. There are other possible, less obvious causes as well, such as uncommanded Exhaust Gas Recirculatin (EGR), flow. When the misfire monitor detects a misfire, it will trigger the check engine light with the specific cylinder number as the last digit in the P030X code. For instance cylinder 1 misfire is P0301, cylinder 2 is P0302 etc. In this case we are left with a P0306 in the computer memory; Possible Causes: Fuel injectors, related wiring, sensors and computer issues Running out of gas, or poor fuel quality Evaporative emissions system (EVAP) concerns: fuel vapors leaking into engine Incorrect Fuel Pressure EGR system concerns: leaking EGR valve or restricted ports Base engine concerns: low compression, valve train problems and timing issues Ignition system concerns including, but not limited to: Faulty spark plugs Faulty coil or related wiring Ignition module or related wiring issues Ignition related sensor faults or wiring issues..." Source: by engine-light-help.com Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) (Spark Angle Pulse Width/Spark Output) to PCM in PCM Connector Pin-Out Diagram with Circuit Functions in a 96 5.0 and 5.8 (Scroll Down) from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Recall, Ignition Switch, Short Circuit Defect info for 88-92 Fords; "...On April 25, 1996 Ford Motor Company announced the recall of approximately nine million cars, trucks and minivans that may be equipped with a faulty ignition switch that may be responsible for causing hundreds of fires. In no case has any death or serious injury resulted from these fires. The recall covers 1988-93 models sold in both the U.S. and Canada that Ford says, "In a very small number of vehilces, the ignition switch could cause an internal short circuit, creating the potential for overheating, smoke and possibly fire in the steering column of the vehicle." The faulty ignitions switches can cause a short circuit that may lead to a fire whether the vehicle is turned on or off..." Source: by AUTOPEDIA™ Repair Manual, Mostly Chilton; many local library's offer free online access for their members; just log-in w/your library Card # and password; incl. all Broncos, & many MAKES! 1951 to 2009; some years (85-96, I believe) include: FULL Technical Service Bulletins and Recalls, Labor Hours per repair (plug in appl info); Wiring Diagrams, Vacuum Diagrams (in DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS Section), Specifications (torques, etc.) & Maintenance Intervals Source: by arrc.epnet.com Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code Source: by RepairPal Rough idle, hesitation, poor throttle response, induction backfire and stalls during cold start/warm up may be caused by the poor volatility of some high octane premium grade unleaded fuels (91 octane or higher (R+M)/2); in Tips to Avoid Lean Conditions TSB 91-8-13; "...Rough idle, hesitation, poor throttle response, induction backfire and stalls during cold start/warm up may be caused by the poor volatility of some high octane premium grade unleaded fuels (91 octane or higher (R+M)/2). When compared to regular grade unleaded fuel (87 octane (R+M)/2), high octane premium grade unleaded fuel may cause long crank time.ACTION: Use a regular grade unleaded fuel in all vehicles, except where a premium unleaded fuel is recommended in the Owner Guide. If lean air-fuel type symptoms are experienced, determine the grade and brand of fuel used and offer the following service tips. Advise those using a higher octane grade fuel to switch to a regular grade unleaded fuel. For those using a regular grade fuel, advise them to try another brand. Do not advise using a higher octane unleaded fuel than is recommended for that specific engine. Ford engines are designed to perform best using a high quality regular grade unleaded fuel. Only advise using a higher octane unleaded fuel to avoid potentially damaging spark knock or ping, but do so only after mechanical fixes are ineffective. NOTE: ALL UNLEADED GASOLINES USED SHOULD CONTAIN DETERGENT ADDITIVES THAT ARE ADVERTISED AS HAVING "KEEP CLEAN" OR "CLEAN UP" PERFORMANCE FOR BOTH INTAKEVALVES AND FUEL INJECTORS..." Source: by Ford via A-Train at markviii.org Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay in a 92; Jeremy wrote on Page 2; "...I was able to get codes the old fashioned way by counting the flashes on dashboard, so I think that would eliminate any prospect of it being something in the wiring; ....As luck would have, it appears that changing out the old EEC relay did the trick. At first I didn't think it would. Instead of using wire from the self test connector to the battery, I plugged it directly into the connector on the tool and went through the KOEO code retreival process and lo and behold I got codes..I even got the KOER test to work as well..." Source: by Jeremy M (Big '92, jermil01) & miesk5 at FSB Self Test & Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) 2 & 3 digits, Bronco & Ford; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Fix any codes from the KOEO test before you do the running test (KOER, key on, engine running). Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function. Source: by Steve via Havack (Ben P) at broncodata.com via replay.waybackmachine.org Self Test - & Connector Location Info in an 86; "...My Test Connectors and Battery are on the "right side" (passenger) behind a black EGR Vacuum Reservoir, my BKO is an 86 but as long as the Code Reader and Test Connector Plugs are the same it should be fine..." Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at FSB Self Test - & Connector Location pic in 84-86; "...located on R wheelwell near starter relay..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Self Test - & Connector Location Video in an 86; "...My Test Connectors and Battery are on the "right side" (passenger) behind a black EGR Vacuum Reservoir..." Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at SuperMotors.net SELF TEST - COMPREHENSIVE & Connector Location pics, Bronco & Ford; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Fix any codes from the KOEO test before you do the running test (KOER, key on, engine running). Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function; miesk5 Note; Steve83 advises; "...If the CEL is burned out, connect CEL (C) to a 12V test light, and the light's other terminal to a 12V source on the same vehicle..." Source: by BroncoJoe19 (Joe) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Self Test - Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) NO CODES Troubleshooting; "...The self-test plugs were mounted on the passenger side fender on 1985-86 EFI trucks; The self-test plugs are located along the driver's side fender behind the air filter box on 87-95 EFI trucks..."; miesk5 NOTE; Self-Test Input (STI) is the Pin in the Lt gray Connector and Signal Return Ground (STO/SIGRET) is Pin E in black Connector in 87-95; The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accesories/lights, etc. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first. Fix any codes from the KOEO test before you do the running test (KOER, key on, engine running). Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function. Hardware Limited Operation Strategy (HLOS) Overview; "...HLOS mode is used when the system fault(s) is too extreme for the FMEM mode to handle. In HLOS mode, all software operations have stopped and the computer is running on hardware control only. The default strategy for this mode has a minimal calibration just to allow the vehicle to operate until it can be serviced. NOTE: IN HLOS MODE YOU WILL NOT GET ERROR CODES. The MIL light is turned on as a bulb check when the ignition key is first turned "ON". The EEC IV computer turns off the bulb as soon as it receives the PIP (crank) signal. If the light stays on during cranking, the computer is not receiving the PIP signal..." Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com Sixlitre Tune-Up Info (scroll through pages to view more tips, especially on Page 5); "...Yes, stock timing is 10 degrees, I find optimum timing to be almost exactly 13.5 but you can play around until you notice ping and then back off 2 degrees if you want to, and/or tune by vacuum if you care to. Cheapest Autolites money can buy, nuthin' platinum, nuthin' fancy, just set out to .055 gap..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB Spark Plug Diagnostic Chart, General Source: by freeautomechanic.com Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/jerk, surge and other driveability concerns; MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur. & The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap. Source: by Ford via ww2.justanswer.com Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-4-14 for 5.0 in 87-90 Bronco, E 150, E 250, F 150, F 250; engine miss, spark knock Source: by Ford via Chilton Spark Plug Wire Routing 94-96 5.0 HO - INCLUDES ALL 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/jerk, surge and other driveability concerns Source: by Rusty S at Motor, Dec 99 via findarticles.com Spark Plug Wire Routing Diagram for 94-96 5.0 HO - INCLUDES 5.8 Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net SPOUT Location (near driver's side hood hinge) in Engine Bay Diagram in 92-96 Source: by Ford via miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery Stator and TFI both share the same grounds and power circuits, when one fails the other might be bad as well. It�s a standard practice at dealerships and most quality repair shops to replace the TFI and stator at the same time. This prevents the problem from re-appearing a few weeks latter. Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com Switch Adjustment in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Switch Pin-Out Diagram & Continuity Testing in 87-91 (from Factory Manual and the Ford Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Symbols in Wiring Diagrams Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Test; "...Test ignition module output with a test light put the test light between the two wires at the coil harness if it flashes TFI module and PIP are functioning. test power supply to the TFI module by using the chart; PIP test distributor mounted TFI only, Test for AC voltage from pin 6 of the TFI module with harness connected to negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be 3-8.5 volts; PIP test remote mount TFI only, disconnect the distributor harness and test for 12v+ at pin 8 with the key in the run position now disconnect the S terminal at the starter solenoid/relay to disable the starter and turn key to start position test for voltage again. Hook the S terminal back up to the starter solenoid/relay test for AC voltage from pin 1 of the distributor to the negative BATTERY terminal by cranking engine. AC voltage should be between 3-8.5, measure from module pin 6 to distributor pin 1 resistance should be less than 5 ohms and finally measure from pin 6 of the remote TFI module to ground you should get more than 10,000 ohms..." Source: by theramsey3 (Chris) at FSB Testing Wiring with a Multi Meter, General; Opens, Short, Voltage & Voltage Drop, Continuity & Diodes Source: by freeautomechanic.com Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Whether your Ford or Mercury car or truck CRANKS but DOES NOT START or runs with a MISFIRE Condition, this article is for you. With the tests I'm gonna' show you, you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) or the Spark Plug Wires or the Distributor Cap. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These Ignition Control Modules (ICM) are not interchangeable but are tested in the exact same way. Also, the photos (in the image viewer) show some of the tests performed on a V8 engine. This might make you think that they don’t apply to your 3.0L, 3.8L V6... well nothing could be further from the truth. All of these test steps apply to both the V8, V6 and L6 Ford engines. For a complete list of applications, see the list at the bottom of the page. As you can see from the image of the Ignition Control Module (in the image viewer on the left), the tests apply to the fender mounted Ford Ignition Control Module. If you need to test the Distributor Mounted Ford Ignition Control Module, click here: How to test the Ford Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM). To test Ford Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coils (4.6L and 5.4L V8 engines), click here: Ford Coil-on-Plug (COP) Ignition Coil Tests. Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly and you turn the key to crank and start your Ford car or truck: 1.The Distributor shaft starts to rotate which causes the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor to start generating its Crankshaft Position Signal. 2.The Ignition Control Module (ICM), upon receiving this PIP Signal, starts to 'open and close' the Ignition Coil's primary current. As you might already be aware, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil Spark.3.The Fuel Injection Computer also receives the PIP Signal at the same time that the Ignition Module does.4.Once the engine STARTS, the Fuel Injection Computer takes over the Ignition Timing.The PIP Sensor is at the heart of this Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module and Ignition System. Here are some useful facts that you should be aware of about the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) Sensor: 1.The PIP Sensor is located in the Distributor.2.It's a Hall Effect type Sensor.3.It produces a digital square wave if its Signal is tested on an Oscilloscope. 4.This signal can also be tested with an LED Light (which is the method I'll use in this article). 5. 5.If it goes BAD, the your Ford car or truck will CRANK but NOT START. No expensive tools are required to test this type of Ignition System. Now, having said that, there some very specific tools that I recommend to use for the tests. So, here's the basic list:".. READ MORE Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Thick Film Ignition (TFI), Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com TFI Module Diagnostics Manual Source: by broncoii.org TFI Module Failure, Troubleshooting Tips, Distributor-Mounted; "...1. Verify charging system operation; specifically, charging voltage. 2. Verify ignition system operation; specifically, there are no open or disconnected plug wires. 3. Remove distributor cap and inspect connections where TFI module hooks to the Hall Effect Switch connector. If there is any sign of deterioration at the connector, the Hall Effect pickup must be replaced. Crankcase vapors are forced into the distributor due to excessive crankcase pressure due to a worn engine or an improperly maintained PCV system. The crankcase vapors cause deterioration of the insulation around the connectors causing the module to short out..." Source: by napaechlin.com TFI Module Failure, Troubleshooting Tips, Distributor-Mounted; "...1. Verify charging system operation; specifically, charging voltage. 2. Verify ignition system operation; specifically, there are no open or disconnected plug wires. 3. Remove distributor cap and inspect connections where TFI module hooks to the Hall Effect Switch connector. If there is any sign of deterioration at the connector, the Hall Effect pickup must be replaced. Crankcase vapors are forced into the distributor due to excessive crankcase pressure due to a worn engine or an improperly maintained PCV system. The crankcase vapors cause deterioration of the insulation around the connectors causing the module to short out..." Source: by niehoff.com TFI Module Gray or Black? Pattern Failures in the modules; driveability & no - start problems; Gray or Black? Ignition Control Module (ICM), "Pattern Failures in the modules; driveability & no - start problems. "Most technicians who deal with Ford driveability and no-start problems have become very familiar with the Thick Film Ignition (TFI) system. Ford started using the six-pin TFI module with the EEC-IV computer system in 1983, and for years it remained basically unchanged. The early TFI system, which Ford calls the "Push Start" TFI system, uses a gray TFI module. Originally, the module was mounted on the distributor. In the late '80s Ford began to relocate it away from the distributor on some vehicles to provide better protection from the effects of engine heat, but system operation remained the same. It uses a Hall effect pickup (stator) in the distributor, which generates a battery voltage, 50% duty cycle square wave, called the PIP signal, to the EEC-U PCM and the TFI module. The PCM processes this signal and sends out another battery voltage, 50% duty cycle square wave, called the SPOUT signal, to the TFI module. As long as the TFI module is receiving a SPOUT signal, it will fire the coil at the rising edge of that signal (except during engine cranking, when SPOUT is ignored) and the vehicle will run with the amount of timing advance commanded by the computer. If the TFI module does not receive the SPOUT signal, it will fire the coil at the rising edge of the PIP signal, a nd the vehicle will run at base timing. This is true on all TFI systems. Ignition dwell with the Push Start (gray module) system is controlled by the TFI module alone, and increases with engine rpm. The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal on a Push Start TFI system comes from the coil negative circuit and is filtered through a 22k ohm resistor to pin #4 on the EEC-IV computer. The computer monitors this circuit to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal, and sets codes if it sees missing or erratic signals. Another feature that is unique to the Push Start TFI system is the start input on pin #4 of the module connector. This is wired into the starter relay trigger circuit, and signals the TFI module that the engine is cranking. When the module sees battery voltage on this circuit, the SPOUT signal is ignored. In the early '90s, Ford began using a different TFI system on certain vehicles--the Computer Controlled Dwell (CCD) TFI system. The TFI module on CCD TFI is always black in color. There are a few major differences between the two systems. As the name implies, with the CCD system, the computer controls primary dwell. The CCD TFI module still ungrounds (fires) the coil at the rising edge of the SPOUT signal, but now the falling edge of the SPOUT signal (which had no meaning to the Push Start TFI module) is used by the CCD TFI module to ground the coil. The PIP signal remains the same 50% duty cycle square wave, but SPOUT signal duty cycle varies according to how much dwell is desired by the computer. Another major difference between the two systems is the IDM circuit. Pin #4 on the CCD TFI module, which was the start circuit input on the Push Start TFI module, is now the IDM signal, sent directly from the TFL module to pin #4 on the EEC-IV computer. This signal is still a filtered (low voltage) version of the ignition primary waveform, but is filtered internally in the TFI module rather than through an external resistor. There isn't any start circuit input to the CCD TFI module; the module infers engine cranking from a low rpm input from the PIP signal. Since these two TFI systems are so significantly different, yet so similar in appearance, parts application problems will inevitably occur. A gray Push Start TFI module will plug right into a CCD system, and vice versa. To make matters worse, parts books are often incorrect on TFI module applications! With the incorrect TFI module installed, the vehicle will run, but driveability and MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) problems will result. For instance, if a gray Push Start TFI module is installed in a CCD system, the computer will not be able to control ignition dwell, and the MIL will illuminate with memory codes for the IDM circuit set, as the gray TFL module is incapable of generating an IDM signal to the computer. If a black CCD TFI module is installed in a Push Start system, dwell will remain fixed, since the SPOUT signal duty cycle never changes. If in doubt about which TFI module belongs on a particular vehicle, consult the ignition system wiring diagram for the vehicle. If the wire going to pin #4 on the EEC-IV computer comes directly from pin #4 of the TFI module, it is a CCD system. If not, it is a Push Start system. A final note: As with every other rule, there is an exception. Some 1.9L Central Fuel (throttle body) Injected Escorts and Tracers were built with black TFI modules that are not CCD modules. If you encounter one of these, check the engineering number on the module. A CCD TFI module engineering number always starts with E9 or higher. Written by David Sill, IDENTIFIX Ford Team Leader. Dave is a certified Ford EEC, Advanced Engine Performance Specialist, ASE Master and L 1. He is a graduate of Ford's ASSET Program and has 14 years of diagnostic repair experience. COPYRIGHT 2001 Adams Business Media COPYRIGHT 2001 Gale Group"; miesk5 NOTE; use BLACK modules in 1994-1996 Broncos Source: by David S in Motor Service, June, 2001 via replay.waybackmachine.org TFI Module, Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) System Diagnostic Tree & Resistance Values; Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM) Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com The On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Executive; "...is a portion of the PCM strategy that manages the sequencing and execution of all diagnostic tests. It is the "traffic cop" of the diagnostic system. Each test/monitor can be viewed as an individual task, which may or may not be able to run concurrently with other tasks. The Diagnostic Executive enables/disables OBD monitors in order to accomplish the following: • Sequence the OBD monitors such that when a test runs, each input that it relies upon has already been tested. • Controls and co-ordinates the execution of the individual OBD system monitors: Catalyst, Misfire, EGR, O2, Fuel, AIR, EVAP and, Comprehensive Component Monitor (CCM). • Stores freeze frame and "similar condition" data • Manages storage and erasure of Diagnostic Trouble Codes as well as MIL illumination • Controls and co-ordinates the execution of the On-Demand tests: Key On Engine Off (KOEO), Key On Engine Running (KOER), and the Output Test Mode (OTM). • Performs transitions between various states of the diagnostic and powertrain control system to minimize the effects on vehicle operation. • Interfaces with the diagnostic test tools to provide diagnostic information (I/M readiness, various J1979 test modes) and responds to special diagnostic requests (J1979 Mode 08 and 09). The diagnostic also executive controls several overall, global OBD entry conditions. The Diagnostic Executive waits for 4 seconds after the PCM is powered before initiating any OBD monitoring. The Diagnostic Executive suspends OBD monitoring when battery voltage falls below 11.0 volts..." Source: by Ford Thick Film Ignition (TFI Troubleshooting, Overview & Operation; "...Ford calls this electronic ignition the Thick Film Integrated-IV (TFI-IV) ignition system. The TFI module is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM) which reports engine position and rpm to the PCM. The PCM then determines the proper spark timing and advance, and returns a reference signal to tell the TFI module to switch the coil, thereby creating a spark. The PCM used on these vehicles is referred to by Ford as the Electronic Engine Control-IV (EEC-IV) module..." read more; MIESK5 NOTEs; the rotary armature (ARMATURE, also called the Ignition Reluctor) has open areas called windows and tabs called vanes; stator is a Hall Effect device, which uses a magnetic field. It sits under the distributor cap and picks up a signal from the ARMATURE. this armature that has open areas called windows and tabs, called vanes. & ...The ARMATURE has the same number of teeth as cylinders in the engine and moves at the same speed as the distributor and camshaft. If you have a V8 then the ARMATURE has eight teeth; seven teeth are the same and one tooth is smaller to identify cylinder #1. As the ARMATURE spins with the distributor is breaks the magnetic field of the hall device generating a sine wave. This sine wave is called the raw Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal and indicates the engine status at 10deg. BTDC. Now some people think the TFI is responsible for this, but that is incorrect; the PIP signal passes thru the TFI unaltered to the computer...(by Ryan M) Source: by therangerstation.com Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams; "...The Thick Film Integrated (TFI-IV) ignition system uses a camshaft driven distributor with no centrifugal or vacuum advance. The distributor has a diecast base, incorporating a Hall effect stator assembly. The TFI-IV system module is mounted on the distributor base, it has 6 pins and uses an E-Core ignition coil, named after the shape of the laminations making up the core. The TFI-IV module supplies voltage to the Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) sensor, which sends the crankshaft position information to the TFI-IV module. The TFI-IV module then sends this information to the EEC-IV module, which determines the spark timing and sends an electronic signal to the TFI-IV ignition module to turn off the coil and produce a spark to fire the spark plug. The operation of the universal distributor is accomplished through the Hall effect stator assembly, causing the ignition coil to be switched off and on by the EEC-IV computer and TFI-IV modules. The vane switch is an encapsulated package consisting of a Hall sensor on one side and a permanent magnet on the other side. A rotary vane cup, made of ferrous metal, is used to trigger the Hall effect switch. When the window of the vane cup is between the magnet and the Hall effect device, a magnetic flux field is completed from the magnet through the Hall effect device back to the magnet. As the vane passes through the opening, the flux lines are shunted through the vane and back to the magnet. A voltage is produced while the vane passes through the opening. When the vane clears the opening, the window causes the signal to go to 0 volts. The signal is then used by the EEC-IV system for crankshaft position sensing and the computation of the desired spark advance based on the engine demand and calibration. The voltage distribution is accomplished through a conventional rotor, cap and ignition wires. GENERAL TESTING - Spark Plug Wire Resistance Whenever the high tension wires are removed from the plugs, coil, or distributor, silicone grease must be applied to the boot before reconnection. Use a clean small screwdriver blade to coat the entire interior surface with Ford silicone grease D7AZ-19A331-A, Dow Corning #111, or General Electric G-627. Use spark plug wire removal pliers, or grasp firmly at the boot (not the wire itself) and remove the wires from the plugs, then remove the distributor cap. Measure the resistance through the distributor cap at that end. Resistance on these wires must not exceed 5,000 ohms per foot. Do not pierce any ignition wire for any reason. Measure only from the two ends. Adjustments - The air gap between the armature and magnetic pick-up coil in the distributor is not adjustable, nor are there any adjustment for the amplifier module. Inoperative components are simply replaced. Any attempt to connect components outside the vehicle may result in component failure. - TROUBLESHOOTING THE TFI-IV SYSTEM; After performing any test which requires piercing a wire with a straight pin, remove the straight pin and seal the holes in the wire with silicone sealer. Wiring Harness - Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the TFI module; the connector tabs must be PUSHED to disengage the connector. Inspect the connector for damage, dirt, and corrosion. Attach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the base of the distributor. Attach the other voltmeter lead to a small straight pin. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, insert the straight pin into the No. 1 terminal of the TFI module connector. Note the voltage reading. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, move the straight pin to the No. 2 connector terminal. Again, note the voltage reading. Move the straight pin to the No. 3 connector terminal, then turn the ignition switch to the START position. Note the voltage reading then turn the ignition OFF . The voltage readings should all be at least 90 percent of the available battery voltage. If the readings are okay, proceed to the Stator Assembly and Module test. If any reading is less than 90 percent of the battery voltage, inspect the wiring, connectors, and/or ignition switch for defects. if the voltage is low only at the No. 1 terminal, proceed to the ignition coil primary voltage test. Stator Assembly and Module - Remove the distributor from the engine. Remove the TFI module from the distributor. Inspect the distributor terminals, ground screw, and stator wiring for damage. Repair as necessary. Measure the resistance of the stator assembly, using an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reading is 800-975 ohms, the stator is okay, but the TFI module must be replaced. If the ohmmeter reading is less than 800 ohms or more than 975 ohms; the TFI module is okay, but the stator module must be replaced. Repair as necessary and install the TFI module and the distributor. - Primary Circuit Continuity; This test is performed in the same manner as the previous Wiring Harness test, but only the No. 1 terminal conductor is tested (ignition switch in Run position). If the voltage is less than 90 percent of the available battery voltage, proceed to the coil primary voltage test..." Source: by Chilton via autozone.com Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Troubleshooting Worksheet; miesk5 Note; this is the Grey Module Source: by therangerstation.com Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Troubleshooting Worksheet; miesk5 Note; this is the Grey Module Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Timing Adjustment in Ford EFI Engines Source: by sackman9975 (Scott) at FSB Top Dead Center (TDC); "...Remove the #1 spark plug (pass-side front) Get a long-handled ratchet and socket set up on the crankshaft bolt. Cover the spark plug hole with a finger and begin rotating the crankshaft clock-wise. As you begin to feel pressure under your finger, you now know that he #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke, and that hte spark plug will fire just before TDC. Now look at the timing marks on the crankshaft damper and align the 0/TDC mark with the pointer. Remove your distributor cap. The rotor should now be pointing at he terminal for #1 cylinder. Mark the cap extension on the outside inline with where the rotor is pointing. Check to see if the terminal on the cap lines up with this mark. If not, loosen and rotate the distributor a little until a terminal lines up with the rotor. This terminal will be where your #1 spark plug cable goes. As your 302 SHOULD use the later firing order, start with that order installing the wires counter-clockwise (ccw.) Reinstall all previously removed components. BE SURE TO REMOVE THE RATCHET FROM THE CRANKSHAFT!! Start the engine. It should now run fairly smoothly. If not, double check your firing order and direction. It's very easy to mix-up the wires fro the pass-side of the engine due to the intake upper manifold.." Source: by Mr. G at FSB Troubleshooting Intermittent Problems (TFI Failure, EGR, etc.) Source: by Larry C at Underhood Service via aa1car.com TSB 94-4-14 for 5.0 in 87-90 Bronco, E 150, E 250, F 150, F 250; engine miss, spark knock Source: by Ford via Chilton Waveforms, PIP, SPOUT, IDM in Push Start & CCD, Page 122 in Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; Scroll Down on First Page, Click on each Section, then on next page, click on the pdf file; the complete book is over 85MB pdf and can be downloaded @ http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Book.pdf Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru Wire Color Code Abbreviation Chart; see post #4; BK Black, BL Blue, BR Brown, DB Dark Blue, DG Dark Green, GN Green, GY Grey, LB Light Blue, LG Light Green, N Natural, O Orange, P Purple, PK Pink, R Red, T Tan, V Violet, W White, Y Yellow Source: by miesk5 at FSB Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in a 94 from EVTM Source: by Mikey350 at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in a 95 Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150 Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB Wiring Diagram in an 89 Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagrams (Partial, Bronco similar) for F 150 in 86, 89, 91 & 95; EEC, Start/Ignition, EFI/Fuel System, Emissions, E4OD, AOD/C6 (+ clutch interlock switch), etc. from Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com Wiring Diagrams, Haynes for a 78 Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net