Contact Me @ FSB or Bronco Zone Forums Home Bronco TSB Summaries Recent Updates Unique Visitors: 68841	FORD BRONCO -> SHOP & TOOL TIPS; torques, fastener/fitting sizes, Bronco/Truck tools... WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 35,000 LINKs! This is a 4x4 Big Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner. Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars Select A Category: Noise, Vibration, Harshness, Ride, Squeak & Rattles TSB 99-11-1 for 95-97 F 250, F 350, SD; 95-99 Econoline, Explorer, F 150, F 250, Ranger, Villager, Windstar and Many Others, Except that Ford Left Out Our Bronco Select A Link: "...Ford typically builds 4WD trucks with a slightly faster/numerically lower front gear ratio than the rear so that off-road steering is enhanced. So a truck built with 3.55 rear gears will have 3.54 front; 3.08 rear - 3.07 front; 4.11 rear - 4.10 front, etc..." Following was in my MS WORD Notes and the source, Randy's Ring & Pinion has removed it from their current web site; The gear ratio in the front of a four wheel drive has to be different from the front so the front wheels will pull more. There have been many different ratio combinations used in four-wheel drive vehicles, but not so that the front will pull more. Gear manufactures use different ratios for many different reasons. Some of those reasons are: strength, gear life, noise (or lack of it), geometric constraints, or simply because of the tooling they have available. I have seen Ford use a 4.11 in the rear with a 4.09 in the front. As long as the front and rear ratios are within 1%, the vehicle works just fine on the road, and can even be as different as 2% for off-road use with no side effects. point difference in ratio is equal to 1%. To find the percentage difference in ratios it is necessary to divide, not subtract. In order to find the difference, divide one ratio by the other and look at the numbers to the right of the decimal point to see how far they vary from 1.00. For example: 4.11 ÷ 4.09 = 1.005, or only a 1/2% difference. These differences are about the same as a 1/3" variation in front to rear tire height, which probably happens more often than we realize. A difference in the ratio will damage the transfer case. Any extreme difference in front and rear ratios or front and rear tire height will put undue force on the drive train. However, any difference will put strain on all parts of the drivetrain. The forces generated from the difference have to travel through the axle assemblies and the driveshafts to get to the transfer case. These excessive forces can just as easily break a front u-joint or rear spider gear as well as parts in the transfer case. Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums "...The vacuum gauge should show 18-22 in-Hg @ idle, and maintain a steady needle. Rev it up to ~2500 rpm, hold it steady, and you should see the needle drop, then slowly increase to a level close to the idle reading (though slightly lower is normal)..." Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB "...The vacuum hoses used in the passenger compartment control circuit are constructed from PVC plastic material in 92-96. The vacuum hoses used in the engine compartment are constructed of Hytrel. Because of the materials used, the vacuum hoses should never be pinched off during diagnosis to locate a leak. Use Rotunda Vacuum Tester 014-R1054 or equivalent to locate vacuum leaks. A wood golf tee can be used as a plug when it is necessary to plug one end of a vacuum hose for leak test purposes..." Source: by thedieselstop.com 5.8 & 5.0 Identification; look at the EGR Tube; The 5.0 EGR Tube runs from the lower intake manifold to bottom of EGR Valve. The 5.8 EGR Tube runs from the passenger exhaust manifold to bottom of EGR Valve; see pics of each Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums ABS Plastic Forming tips for tweeters, switches, etc. (some pics are gone); "...Creating a form in ABS Plastic; Building a rod frequently is about solving problems. Installing a door panel with some power window converters can be one such problem because the regulator can become an obstacle. In some cases, the panel needs to be built up around inch to clear the regulator. What works best is to form a cavity in the panel. Here’s how to do it. Cut a mandrel out a piece of plywood the height needed and the diameter required. Cut another piece of plywood 1-1/2” larger than the mandrel. Place the mandrel under the panel where the regulator resides. Heat the panel with the propane torch until the panel becomes soft and pliable. Press the plywood ring piece down tight to your work table. When the plastic cools it will retain the formed shape. Mark Yearwood sent the following message to the RodDoors e-Group. Just a note...Always spray your glue, either with a gun or if using the can, only use the 3M 8090 super adhesive. NEVER use 77.. it won't last in the heat of autos. Spray 3-4 light coats different directions on both pieces, waiting a few minutes between. Let it tack good, almost feels dry. Make sure to get it in all the grooves and such. I used the Super 8090 to cover the whole inside of my 86 chevy pickup in tweed. Door panels with rodfoam designs, headliner and trim, dash and console. It has been six months with temps from 10 degrees to 110 with no problems. Stuck the carpet and pad down with it too. I buy it by the case from a supplier. We’ve seen people use skill saws, saber saws, hand saws, and die grinders on our plastic panels. But, nothing works better than a simple, sharp utility knife. Chalk out a line, score with your utility knife and snap like wallboard to break. All the plastic parts that we sell will sand like wood, drill like wood, and break like tile. So trimming out a panel is a snap. The biggest fear that most people have is that they’ll make a mistake. Not a big deal. If you trim a panel too small you can always glue it back together with ABS pipe cement. Add a backer plate from scrap so the joint is not just a butt joint. Once the repair has dried you can sand it smooth, retrim and the fabric will cover over the repaired seam..." Source: by roddoors.com via web.archive.org ACCEL Ignition Instruction Sheets Source: by ACCEL at prestoliteweb.com Actron® Ignition Module & Engine Sensor Tester Instructions Source: by actron.com Air Conditioning & Fuel Line, EFI Spring Lock Coupling Tool Instructions Source: by ctd4ac.com Aluminium Cleaning Guide: "...aluminum engine components, mainly exterior unpolished heads, cylinders, cases, etc..." Source: by Mark H at team.net Aluminum Alloys Applications & Series Properties Source: by burnsstainless.com AN Fitting Guide & Size Chart; "...The most popular sizes used in fuel systems are the -6 and the -8 AN, although some high performance fuel pumps and regulators require a -10 AN fitting..." Source: by gearheadracing.com via replay.waybackmachine.org Automatic Transmission Training Course Source: by Ford Availability of New Silicone Gasket & Sealant TSB 98-7-4 for 84-96 Bronco; 84-98 Econoline, F-150, F-250 HD, F-250 LD; 84-99 Super Duty F Series, etc. Source: by performanceprobe.com Axle, Engine & Transmission Codes in an 82 Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Back Probe; "...Back-probing terminals is done when live circuit measurements are required. It is always better to back-probe a terminal than it is to pierce a wire's insulation to obtain a measurement. Insert a long straight pin, T-pin, or meter probe into the back to the connector to contact the desired terminal. If multiple pins are to be used in the same connector, make sure the pins cannot touch each other resulting in a short circuit and possible circuit damage. Be careful not to damage any weather seals on the connector or terminal. Connect a test light or digital multi-meter to the straight pin to obtain a reading..." Source: by ocw.weber.edu Basic Electrical Diagnosis Training Course Source: by Ford Bearing Locknut Socket incl. 95-96 w/pics; "...No. 519097-5 – 2-1/2" rounded hex locknut socket works on 1995–96 Ford F-150 trucks and full-sized Broncos with automatic locking hubs..." Source: by OTC Bearing Locknut Socket; Combo socket for Fords ONLY works on non hat style hubs ie. 87-88 style Source: by Paul I (MikE2, F 150, Blackie for right now) at SuperMotors.net Bearing, Thrust Washer & Rod Sets, Federal Mogul Specs, Bronco & Ford, many engines and years Source: by Federal-Mogul Bearings Reference Center Source: by Machine Design bearings.machinedesign.com Beyond Tool Kits in Field Repair Situations, General Source: by Bill B at bb4wa.com Biodiesel System Installation (in garage) Source: by Ryan P (Odey, OD) at SuperMotors.net Black Oxide Process Source: by Kevin M (Project Double Agent) at fte Body Maintenance in a 96; "...Regular body maintenance preserves the vehicle's appearance during the life of the vehicle. The following steps are suggested as a guide for regular body maintenance: Vacuum interior thoroughly and wash vehicle. Check all openings for water leaks and seal where necessary. Cement all usable, loose weatherstrips, using Weatherstrip Adhesive E8AZ-19552-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M2G14-A. Replace all door weatherstrips that are damaged or worn. Apply Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A to the weatherstripping. Replace all cracked, fogged or chipped glass. Align hood and doors if necessary. Inspect windshield wiper blades and replace if necessary. Tighten scuff plate and garnish moulding screws. Refer to Section 01-05. Clean seats, door trim panels and headlining. Apply touch-up paint to chipped or scratched areas. Drain holes should be cleared periodically..." miesk5 Note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contains oil, a regular occurrence now Source: by thedieselstop.com Body Panel Adhesives Guide Source: by Ford Motorcraft® fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com Body Panel Flanger Set Regular And Extra Wide; "...Make flush repairs with Flanging Pliers. Both adjustable, locking flanging Pliers produce a step deep enough for flush repairs in 18 ga. or thinner metal. Extra-Wide Panel Flanger 31090 flanges into corners or long straight sections, producing a flange 2-1/2"" long by 5/8"" wide. The Panel Flanger 19092 steps straights and curves and produces a flange 5/8"" long by 5/8"" wide. For strong rivet repaired, clamp repair panel to the stepped are, drill 1/8"" holes for rivets (use Steel Countersunk Rivets 31019 in steel; Aluminum Countersunk rivets 31020 in aluminum), and use the Dimpling Pliers 31089 before installing rivets to strengthen the joint and minimize filler. We recommend the Panel Holding System 19074 for holding panels together for welding..." Source: by eastwood.com Body Panel Panel Adhesive Thread Source: by members at FSB Body Sealer Types and Application; "...While many sealers are used during vehicle assembly, the following all-purpose sealers have been selected for service use. The method and points of application are shown in each applicable group. Liquid Butyl Sealer C9AZ-19554-B (Black) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M4G162-A does not run, is fast drying, and remains semi-elastic. The sealer can be used for seam sealing in such areas as the floorpan, wheelhouse, dash panel, running board, door openings and drip rails. It can also be used to seal outside moulding clip holes, and for windshield and rear window installation. Caulking Cord D6AZ-19560-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M4G32-A has a plastic base with a filler, is heavy bodied, and is commonly known as perma-gum. It is used on spot-weld holes, around mounting clips and between two surfaces not sealed by a gasket. Weatherstrip Adhesive E8AZ-19552-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M2G14-A is a quick-drying, strong adhesive designed to hold weatherstripping to doors, bodies, cowl ventilators and the surrounding metal. Windows and windshields that are set in rubber can be effectively sealed against leakage by flowing adhesive into affected areas. Clean all grease, dirt and old sealer from surfaces, and wash the surfaces thoroughly with a cloth moistened with a suitable commercial cleaner. For best results, apply a medium coat of adhesive to both surfaces, allow it to dry until tacky and then press both surfaces firmly together. Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A is to be used on the door and window weatherstrips. It is recommended that silicone lubricant be applied to the weatherstrips at every lubrication period. Its use makes the doors easier to close, avoids weatherstrip squeaks, retards weatherstrip wear due to chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip, and helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and rubber weatherstrip..." miesk5 Note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contains oil, a regular occurrence now Source: by thedieselstop.com Bolt & Screw Torque Specs Source: by thelenchannel.com Bolt Tightening Source: by Jim K at canadiandriver.com Bolt Torque Chart, Engine, 260, 289, 302, 351W, 351M/400M, 429-460, 360, 390, 406, 427, 428 FE Source: by gearheadracing.com via replay.waybackmachine.org Bolt Torques by Size & Grades 2, 5, 8 & Special Alloys Source: by auto-ware.com Bolts, Aircraft, General Information & Formulas Source: by coastfab.com Bolts, Aircraft, Series & Types Source: by coastfab.com Bondo® Products Source: by 3m.com Broken Bolt Removal pics w/ a MIG Welder Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at SuperMotors.net Broken Bolt Removal w/ a MIG Welder Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at 4x4preservation.com Broken Bolt Removal w/ a MIG Welder Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at FSB Buffing & Polishing Source: by caswellplating.com Buffing & Polishing Source: by caswellplating.com Build Date Stamp Location in a 96; "...The vehicle build date stamp is a four-digit number representing month and day of manufacture. On Bronco and F-150, F-250, F-350, the vehicle build date is stamped on the front surface of the radiator support on the passenger's side of the vehicle. For example, for a build date of January 24, the vehicle build date stamp reads 0124; for a build date of October 21, the vehicle date stamp reads 1021. Yellow ink is normally used for the date stamp. When the marking surface is painted the body color, the date stamp will be marked in red ink. Units from the Ontario Truck Plant (Code C) will be marked with silver ink..." Source: by thedieselstop.com Cable, Galvanized Aircraft Chart; "...is a common industry term for small diameter, corrosion-resistant, zinc-coated wire rope originally designed for aeronautical applications. It is a flexible and inexpensive cable used on winches, guy lines and numerous other commercial, industrial and marine applications..." Source: by Erik M (The Anchor) at CC site via webarchive.org Calibration Code (Catch Code BIO0) Location pic; on PCM in a 95 5.8; with Ford Part Number Source: by marnefist at SuperMotors.net Calibration Label pic on Driver's B Pillar in a 95 5.8 Source: by marnefist at SuperMotors.net Caliper Tool TSB 88-13-07 for 86-88 Bronco, E & F Series, Aerostar & others Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Caliper Use Instructions Source: by mdmetric.com Camlocs, 2600-2700 series Specs & Information Source: by coastfab.com Camlocs, 4200 series Specs & Information Source: by coastfab.com Car Bibles, General Source: by carbibles.com Casting Numbers 351C/M, 400, 429, 460 Block & Head in 70s-80s Source: by Tom M via Geoff I at ford400.100webcustomers.com Casting Numbers 352, 390, 406, 427 and 428 Engine Block Identification Source: by mre-books.com Casting Numbers Overview & Legend from 40 to 80's; GREAT INFO!; such as; It would read E for the decade (1982); T for All truck 1958-65; light and medium truck including [b]Bronco 1974-82[/b]; light truck and Bronco I 1983-later; E (probably) for Engine Engineering; Powertrain and Chassis product Engineering Source: by gearheadracing.com via replay.waybackmachine.org Casting Numbers Overview & Legend; Good Stuff, up to 90's Source: by ClassicMustang.com Ceramic Coating Pricing Estimates Source: by SQI  sqipc.com Chilton Manual for 66-81 Bronco, Scanned Copy Source: by Chilton via broncocity.com Common Problems, Bronco Source: by RepairPal Compression Test in 4.9, 5.0, 5.8 Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Connector Re-Pin/Repair Video; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window Source: by pfun41 at youtube.com Cost Estimate, Differential Installation & Services Source: by currieenterprises.com Cryogenics History, Pricing, etc. Source: by Performance Cryogenics Cylinder Leak Down Test; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window Source: by richpin06a at youtube.com Detailing, Under Hood Source: by Cole Q at hotrod.com Dial Indicators, Magnetic Base, Use of Source: by skywaytools.com Dielectric Grease vs Thermal Grease; "...Although having similar properties, Silicone Dielectric Grease is not the same as Thermal Grease. Silicone Dielectric Grease is a temperature resistant material used for lubrication and as a sealant to prevent corrosion. Thermal Grease is a temperature conductive material used to assist with efficient heat transfer to a heat sink with electronic components. The incorrect application of Dielectric Grease on your new TFI ICM or using Thermal Grease to seal a harness connector can result in component failure. Let’s find out why. Silicone Dielectric Grease is a waterproof, non-conductive, temperature resistive lubricant usually used for preserving rubber parts, such as o-rings. It does not swell or soften rubber as may be the case with hydrocarbon based lubricants. Typically, it is used as a means of lubricating and sealing the rubber portions of a connector without arcing. When used in a spark plug boot, it seals the boot from water intrusion and prevents the rubber from sticking to the spark plug ceramic. It is formulated to withstand higher temperatures and it does not break down in the spark plug environment. Because it is non-conductive, it can be applied to the actual contact as well because the spark plug high contact pressure is sufficient to penetrate the grease. On the other hand, this is not the case with multi-pin electrical connectors where it is not recommended to be applied to the electrical contacts. In this case, it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector where the contact pressure is very low. With harness connectors, it should only be used as a lubricant and sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. Silicone Dielectric Grease is typically a component of Thermal Grease due to its supportive properties. In addition to carrying suspended heat conductive particles, Dielectric Grease fills the gaps and conforms to both the component's and the heat sink's uneven surfaces, adheres to those surfaces, maintains its consistency over the required temperature range, resists drying out or flaking over time and does not degrade with oxidation or break down over time..." read more Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB Double Cardan U-Joint Overview, Parts Break-Out Diagrams; "...Double Cardan U-joints are used when the operating angle is too large for a single joint to handle. The double Cardan U-joint consists of two individual Cardan U-joints closely connected by a center yoke and asocket yoke. The center yoke, socket yoke, and centering spring keep both U-joints in line with each other. This assembly splits the angle of two shafts between the two joints..." Source: by fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com Drill Size For Tapping Threads Source: by auto-ware.com Drill Sizes; Numbers, Letters, and Fractions Source: by auto-ware.com Drill Speeds For Various Sizes and Materials Source: by auto-ware.com Driveline Clunk as Vehicle Starts to Move Following a Brake Stop (Two-Piece Driveshaft); "...Loose rear spring U-bolts. TIGHTEN U-bolts to specification. Worn or galled output driveshaft and coupling shaft splines. REMOVE the driveshaft from the vehicle. CLEAN the male splines and INSPECT for worn or galled splines. REPLACE if necessary. Worn or galled driveshaft slip yoke splines. CLEAN and INSPECT the female splines of the driveshaft slip yoke for worn or galled condition. REPLACE if necessary. Damaged driveshaft slip yoke seal. REPLACE seal. Insufficient lubrication in driveshaft slip yoke. Using a long handle (stencil type) brush, APPLY grease evenly on all the splines of the driveshaft slip yoke. REINSTALL driveshaft and using a hand grease gun, LUBRICATE the driveshaft slip yoke through the grease fitting. Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B. NOTE: Install the driveshaft slip yoke, making sure that the coupling shaft and driveshaft are in phase..."; Miesk5 Note, Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C ESA-M1C75-B is available as Castrol MP Multi-Purpose Chassis Grease is a NLGI #2 lithium based, water resistant grease or ConocoPhillips Moly Poly Grease NLGI No. 2 Source: by thedieselstop.com Dupli-Color® Tips Source: by Dupli-Color®  duplicolor.com Dupli-Color® FAQs Source: by Dupli-Color®  duplicolor.com E4OD Leak Check Test. The following procedures should be used to determine the cause of the leakage before service is made. Remove the fluid level indicator (7A020) and note the color of the fluid. Original factory fill fluid is dyed red to aid in determining if leakage is from the engine or transmission. Unless a considerable amount of makeup fluid has been added or the fluid has been changed, the red color should assist in pinpointing the leak. Remove the converter housing cover. Clean off any fluid from the top and bottom of the converter housing, front of the transmission case, and rear face of the engine and pan. Clean the converter area by washing with suitable nonflammable solvent, and blow dry with compressed air. Wash out converter housing and the front of the flywheel. The converter housing may be washed out using clean solvent and a squirt-type oil can. Blow all washed areas dry with compressed air. Start and run the engine until the transmission reaches its normal operating temperature. Observe the back of the block and top of the converter housing for evidence of fluid leakage. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle. Run the engine at fast idle, then at engine idle, occasionally shifting to the drive and reverse ranges to increase pressure within the transmission. Observe the front of the flywheel, back of the block (in as far as possible), and inside the converter housing and front of the transmission case. Run the engine until fluid leakage is evident and the probable source of leakage can be determined. When a converter drain plug leaks, remove drain plug. Install new drain plug. Tighten to 24-27 Nm (18-20 lb-ft).." READ MORE from 1996 Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums E4OD MLPS Alignment Tool Depiction Source: by thepartsbin.com EEC-IV Break-Out Box (BOB) Overview; miesk5 Note, Disconnect EEC. Without a Break-Out Box (BOB) go to the EEC CONNECTOR's pin(s) instead Source: by Handy_andy_cv64 (Ed B) at FSB EEC-IV Break-Out Box (BOB) Value Work Sheet Source: by merkurencyclopedia.com EEC-IV Monitor & Recorder Overview Source: by thedieselstop.com Electric Motors Reference Center Source: by electricmotors.machinedesign.com Electrical - New Terminal Grease TSB 98-24-6 for 81-96; "...Ford Motor Company has released a new Electrical Grease (F8AZ-19G208-AA) to reduce the possibility of moisture corrosion at the terminals..." Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Electrical - New Terminal Grease TSB 98-24-6 for 81-96; "...Ford Motor Company has released a new Electrical Grease (F8AZ-19G208-AA) to reduce the possibility of moisture corrosion at the terminals..." Source: by performanceprobe.com Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Improvements TSB 92-10-4 for 93 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline, Explorer, Ranger & Other Fords Source: by Chilton Electrolytic Rust Removal Source: by drkhrs925 (Dave, tonka) at FSB Electrolytic Rust Removal Source: by drkhrs925 (Dave, tonka) at FSB Electrolytic Rust Removal Procedure Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net Electrolytic Rust Removal Procedure Source: by www3.telus.net Electronic System Diagnosis Training Course Source: by Ford Electronic System Diagnosis Training Course; Part 2 Source: by Ford Engine & Transmission Applications & Differential Gear Ratios in a 90 Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net Engine CID to C.C. & Liter Table Source: by Walker® Engine Compartment Relay Mounting Bracket Fabrication Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at FSB Engine Compartment Relay Mounting Bracket Fabrication pics Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net Engine I.D. Label Depiction & Legend, 1980 shown. "...The label is found on the front of the valve cover on the 4.9L; on the front of the right valve cover on V8 engine..." Source: by Chilton Engine Lift Bracket Fabrication for Ford EFI Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at 4x4preservation.com Engine Lift Bracket Fabrication for Ford EFI Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at FSB Engine Lift Bracket Fabrication for Ford EFI pics Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at SuperMotors.net Engine oil leaks are sometimes improperly diagnosed as transmission pump seal leaks. "The following areas of possible leakage should also be checked to determine if engine oil leakage is causing the problem. Leakage at the valve cover may allow engine oil to flow over the converter housing or seep down between the converter housing and block causing oil to be present in or at the bottom of the converter housing. Oil plug leaks will allow oil to flow down the rear face of the block to the converter housing. Leakage at the crankshaft seal will work back to the flywheel, and then into the converter housing" from 1996 Bronco with E4OD Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual; read more Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Engine Performance Diagnosis & Testing Training Course Source: by Ford Engine Performance Training Course Source: by Ford Engine Rebuilding Guide, General Source: by byui.edu Engine Related Formulae; Static Compression Ratio, CFM, HP & Torque, BHP, Cylinder volume (displacement), Piston speed (ft. per mm.), Valve Spring Rate, Rod Ratio, Starting Ratio, Carburetor Size formula, Center of Gravity, Transmission's Gear Ratio, Drill sizes for Tapping Threads, etc. Source: by truckpulls.comvia web.archive.org Engine Removal Instructions Source: by Paul E at ProjectBronco.com Engine Service Points Diagram; "...All engines take 6 quarts of oil with a new filter..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Engine Speed Related Vibrations Source: by vibratesoftware.com Engine Stand Instructions & pics Source: by Michael G at angelfire.com English Wheel, home made (register to view) Source: by cbegnaud via Street Source Magazine streetsourcemag.net Equus 3145 Code Reader pics Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net Equus® 3145 Code Reader Manual Source: by equus.com Exhaust Fumes; Guarding Against Exhaust Fumes; Carbon monoxide, although colorless and odorless, is present in exhaust fumes. Take precautions to avoid its dangerous effects. "...Make sure your Bronco’s tailgate window is closed when your truck is running to prevent exhaust fumes from being drawn in. If you must have the tailgate window open, adjust your air control system to force outside air into the front of your truck. If your Bronco has outside air control vents, open them fully. Have the exhaust and body ventilation systems checked whenever: your vehicle is raised for service, the sound of the exhaust system changes, your vehicle has been damaged in a collision. Improve your ventilation by keeping all air inlet vents clear of snow, leaves, and other debris. If the engine is idling while you are stopped in an open area for long periods of time, open the windows at least one inch (2.5 cm). Also, adjust the heating or air conditioning to bring in outside air. HEATING — Set fan speed at MEDIUM or HIGH, the function selector knob on VENT, FLOOR, MIX, or the DEFROST symbol and the temperature control knob on any desired position. AIR CONDITIONING — Set the fan speed at MEDIUM or HIGH, the function selector knob on NORM or VENT and the temperature control knob on any desired position..." Also check;rusted out floor pan, floor pan plugs missing; Many plugs and grommets are used in the floorpan and dash panel. The floorpan plugs seal the various access holes. If any plugs are missing or improperly installed, a dust or water leak may result. This also applies to the grommets used on the dash panel. When dust or water leaks are evident, these plugs and grommets should be checked for proper installation. quarter panel wheelhouse inner panel rusted out into cargo area; seat & seat belt belt bolts missing with holes in pan; Underbody Heat Deflectors bolt missing. Body Sealant deteriorated @; floorpan quarter wheelhouse inner panel and quarter wheelhouse outer panel, dash panel, running boards, door openings, roof side drip rail. Check weatherstrip @ floor pan where bottom of tailgate meets it; air, fumes and water can be sucked-in through a bad ws. Liquid Butyl Sealer C9AZ-19554-B (Black) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M4G162-A does not run, is fast drying, and remains semi-elastic. The sealer can be used for seam sealing in such areas as the floorpan, wheelhouse, dash panel, running board, door openings and drip rails. It can also be used to seal outside moulding clip holes, and for windshield and rear window installation. Caulking Cord D6AZ-19560-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M4G32-A has a plastic base with a filler, is heavy bodied, and is commonly known as perma-gum. It is used on spot-weld holes, around mounting clips and between two surfaces not sealed by a gasket. Weatherstrip Adhesive E8AZ-19552-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESB-M2G14-A is a quick-drying, strong adhesive designed to hold weatherstripping to doors, bodies, cowl ventilators and the surrounding metal. Windows and windshields that are set in rubber can be effectively sealed against leakage by flowing adhesive into affected areas. Clean all grease, dirt and old sealer from surfaces, and wash the surfaces thoroughly with a cloth moistened with a suitable commercial cleaner. For best results, apply a medium coat of adhesive to both surfaces, allow it to dry until tacky and then press both surfaces firmly together. Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A is to be used on the door and window weatherstrips. It is recommended that silicone lubricant be applied to the weatherstrips at every lubrication period. Its use makes the doors easier to close, avoids weatherstrip squeaks, retards weatherstrip wear due to chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip, and helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and rubber weatherstrip. Dust and Water Leaks; After trim removal has revealed the location of leaks, seal these leaks, and road test the vehicle on a dusty road to make sure all leaks are sealed. Dust entry is usually indicated by a pointed shaft of dust or silt at the point of entrance. After the road test, check for indications of a dust pattern around the door openings, cowl panel, and cowl side panel. Sometimes leaks can be located by putting bright lights under the vehicle, with the above components removed, and checking the interior of the body at joints and weld lines. The light will show through where leaks exist. Source: by miesk5 at FSB Exhaust Tubing Selection Guide, General Source: by Performance Unlimited via Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net Exhaust Tubing Selection Guide, General Source: by Performance Unlimited via Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net Fan Clutch Tools pics; "...Homemade Fan Clutch Tools The angle iron holds the water pump pulley bolts while the leaf spring breaks the clutch hub nut. The angle iron can also be used for holding a pinion flange or yoke..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Fastener Info Source: by Mike N at 4x4wire.com Fastener Materials Reference Guide Source: by arp-bolts.com Fastener Retention, Proper Source: by arp-bolts.com  Fastener Technical Data Charts Source: by Maryland Metrics  mdmetric.com Fastener Tips, Common Failures Source: by arp-bolts.com Fastener Torque Recommendations Source: by arp-bolts.com Fasteners, US Navy Technical Manual Source: by USN via Bill A (BillaVista) at pirate4x4.com Fasteners: Bolts, Screws, Nuts; Common Automotive Diagram Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Flexible Tube Connector, W900 Series, Installation Guide Source: by fluidcontrol.net Ford Service Disk Installation & Use; Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB Ford Service Disk Installation & Use; Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis (PCED), Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Fractions To Decimals Source: by auto-ware.com Fuel Economy Improvements, Owner Related Source: by Energy and Environmental Analysis, Inc. Fuel Economy Tech Tips TSB 99-26-09 for 90-96 Bronco, 90-97 F Series, Aerostar, F 350; 90-92 Ranger & Econoline; 91-2000 Explorer; 95-2000 Windstar; 97-2000 Expedition & Many Others Source: by thedieselstop.com Fuel Economy Tech Tips TSB 99-26-09 for 90-96 Bronco, 90-97 F Series, Aerostar, F 350; 90-92 Ranger & Econoline; 91-2000 Explorer; 95-2000 Windstar; 97-2000 Expedition & Many Others Source: by performanceprobe.com Fuel Line Fitting Removal at Pump or Filter in EFI; "..Push the fuel line HARD onto the fitting (pump or filter) to relieve the catches, & rotate it to break the O-rings loose. While holding it on the fitting, insert the release tool as far as it will go (this one isn't there yet) to open the catches. While holding the tool HARD against the stop ring, work the line off the tool & fitting. It may be necessary to rinse the dirt out of the line end to allow the catches to open.Blue supply lines are 3/8"; gray return lines are 5/16"..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Fuel Mileage Tips Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Fuel Mileage Tips; "...An extra 100 pounds in the trunk reduces a typical car's fuel economy by one to two percent..." READ MORE Source: by Wester's Garage Fuel Pressure Test Gauge Overview & pic; "...To test the fuel pressure you’ll need this tool. You will need to screw it onto the schrader valve on the top of the fuel rail, it looks like a tire air valve stem. After attaching the fuel pressure tester, run the fuel pump for 10 seconds. Check that the pressure is within specs, and it doesn’t leakdown more than 5PSI within 60 seconds after pump shutdown..." Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at oldfuelinjection.com Gas Saving Tips Source: by Cam C (BlancoBronco, Project BLANCO) at thewebwheeler.com Gasket Removal TSB 93-23-14 for 88-93 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline & many others Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at fourdoorbronco.com Gasket Removal TSB 93-23-14 for 88-93 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline & many others Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Gasket Removal TSB 93-23-14 for 88-93 Bronco, F Series, Aerostar, Econoline & many others Source: by performanceprobe.com Gear Ratio Determination; "...remove the differential cover or the 3rd member and count the number of teeth on the gears. Unfortunately, this can get messy. One somewhat easy yet very reliable way is to jack up the wheels, disconnect the driveshaft, rotate one wheel, and count how many revolutions the pinion yoke/flange makes. If you turn one tire & the other one either stays still while the pinion rotates, or the other one rotates backward while the pinion stays still, or something in between, then you've got an open diff or a very weak LSD (like a Trac-Lok with too many miles on it). In this case, you need to secure one wheel (perhaps by lowering the tire onto the ground), then you can figure your gear ratio by rotating the airborne tire TWO full rotations and counting the number of times the pinion rotates. 3.73 turns means 3.73 gears. If you only rotate the tire once, then 1.865 turns means 3.73 gears. If you turn one tire & the other one turns the same number of turns in the same direction, then you've got a good LSD or locker. In this case, you can just rotate the tires ONE full rotation and figure your gear ratio by counting the number of times your pinion rotates. 3.73 turns means 3.73 gears..." Read More Source: by Obi-Wan at jedi.com Goodson Tools Technical Library Source: by goodson.com Grease Fitting Cross-Reference Chart Source: by Umeta via thomasregister.com Guidelines for Modifying Light Truck Drivelines TSB 92-1A-9 for 89 & after Bronco, Econoline & F Series Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Head Bolt (Broken) Removal Tip & Tool Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net Head Bolt Torque Specs, Bronco & Ford Source: by Federal-Mogul Heat Treatment For Steel Source: by auto-ware.com Heli-Coil Instructions Source: by RoadStarMagazine.com Heli-Coil Tech Topics Source: by Emhart® Fastening Teknologies emhart.com Hollander Interchange® 70th Edition Identification Manual Source: by Hollander via scribd.com Hood Release Rescue Tool Source: by howellrescue.com Hose & Tube Chart Source: by sloantrans.com HyperFiber Magic Carpet Self-Hardening Weave Material Forming tips for tweeters, switches, etc.; "...Sometimes we wish we were artists with sheetmetal. Sure, we can make a bracket and weld a floorpan in place, but we're in awe watching someone hammer and massage a flat piece of steel into a complex curved fender or custom engine cover. Guys who can do that are true craftsmen. Since we are not in that category when it comes to working sheetmetal, we were pretty jazzed when we learned about a new product from Percy's High Performance. This is the company that has come up with great solutions to age-old problems, like its Adjust-A-Jet that lets you alter jetting in a Holley carburetor externally with a screwdriver and wrench. One of its new products for 2010 is HyperFiber, which gives anyone the ability to create custom parts like a pro. HyperFiber is a fiber-weave material like fiberglass or carbon fiber. In fact, the weave type is 2x2 twill, which is exactly like carbon fiber. The difference is this weave is pre-impregnated with a resin that hardens in sunlight or ultraviolet light. If you have worked with fiberglass or carbon fiber, you know that mixing the resin in the right ratio and applying it to the fiber weave evenly is a pain. And the process is messy no matter how good you are at it. HyperFiber overcomes these challenges because the resin is already mixed and applied. It's held in place on the weave between two layers of dry film (plastic). Literally, you pull the amount of HyperFiber you need out of the box, work it into the shape you want, and the put it in the sunlight to cure. This sounded too good to be true, so we couldn't wait to get our hands on some to try. We experimented with the stuff, layering it, making various shapes, drilling it, and painting it. Finally, we tried our hand at making an actual part-a switch panel for one of our cars. But as you can see, the sky is the limit on all the different stuff you can make with it. Overall, we think HyperFiber is a great solution for people who are interested in making some custom parts but don't have metal-fabrication skills. The company says HyperFiber will withstand typical underhood temperatures if used as an engine cover or to make an air cleaner panel that will mate to a cowl-induction hood or hoodscoop. You could also use it to make your own hoodscoop. For interiors and trunks, this is just the ticket to create whatever custom shapes you desire..." See pics w/more narrative; MIESK5 Note, Percy's High Performance is a product line of Taylor Cable Products Inc. See Taylor's web site for more info such as; HyperFiber is a revolutionary, time saving, material that allows you to make your own custom composite parts in minutes. Save thousands versus making molds and paying for carbon fiber parts to be made for you. No more mixing high odor resins hoping to get exactly the right ratio, trying to get just the right amount of resin on your material, or wasting resin that sets up in the can or drips off on the work surface. HyperFiber has fiber and resin combined with a dry film on each side for the perfect ratio of material and resin EVERY TIME. Simply cut and form HyperFiber in its uncured state to your desired shape inside, out of the sun. Your work time is nearly unlimited! No longer are you working against the clock to try to get everything done before your part sets up. Once you are finished, simple expose the piece to sunlight or a Percy's UV light source and the HyperFiber will set up in a matter of minutes! With the twill weave used in HyperFiber, you are also able to form it around the most complex curves and angles without having wrinkles or needing to cut the material. HyperFiber is available with or without memory wire woven directly into the fiber. The purpose of the memory wire is to hole the shape that form into it. Just like the non-wired version, HyperFiber with memory wire is also available in kits for popular applications. Layer and re-enforce as necessary; when thickness doubles, stiffness goes up six times! HyperFiber is great for 1000's of uses in automotive, marine, car audio or any other application that requires a totally custom composite. Source: by Cole Q at hotrod.com Identification, 5.0 & 5.8 & 351 Windsor/Cleveland engines. "...The most obvious external difference is the engine valve covers. The 351W (Windsor) valve covers are attached with 6 bolts, straight front to rear, and narrow in width (similar to the 302 c.i. engine.)* The 351C (Cleveland) valve covers are attached with 8 bolts, flat with 2 different planes, and wider in width. The 351W engine has a radiator hose that attaches to the intake manifold, while the 351C attaches to the engine block. (See Graphic 1 on next page). The 351W takes a 5/8” thread spark plug and the 351C takes a 14mm thread plug. (See Graphic 2 on next page). Distributor differences: The 351W has a smaller 1.245” diameter distributor gear, and the 351C has a larger 1.418” diameter distributor gear. Each engine has a 5/16” oil drive at the bottom of the shaft and a 1.557” diameter housing, measuring directly above or below the O-ring area. *The Ford 302 c.i. engine has a ¼” oil drive on the shaft, a small 1.245” diameter gear, and a smaller 1.550” diameter housing. Windsor 351 V-8 Engine: 1. Valve cover is held in place by 6 bolts. 2. Radiator hose connects to water neck on.." The 351 Cleveland's radiator hose attaches to the radiator and connects directly into the front of the engine block. It makes a 90° bend from the radiator to the engine block.Cleveland 351 V-8 Engine:1. Valve cover is held in place by 8 bolts. 2. Radiator hose is a 90° hose that connects directly to the top front of the engine block..." see diagrams Source: by CARDONE® cardone.com Inconel Applications & Properties Source: by burnsstainless.com Independent Installer & Body Shop Rebate Program & Fleet Powertrain Rebates Program Second Event Rules of Use; "...The 2011 Ford Customer Service Division Installer/Body Shop/Fleet Rebate program is conducted according to the following rules of use: Product must be purchased from a Ford or Lincoln Dealership, a Ford Authorized Distributor or an auto parts store. Rebates that require multiple quantities (e.g. $5 off eight Spark Plugs) must be purchased at the same time and appear on one invoice. Spark plugs must have the same part number. One Fuel Filter and one oil filter can be combined for rebate offer. Rebates submitted with incomplete / incorrect information or handwritten invoices will be rejected and not be paid. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to alter or modify this program at any time with no prior notice. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to reject claims it deems to be invalid at its sole discretion. Any notifications regarding your rebate status will be sent to you electronically via the e-mail address provided upon registration or via USPS mail. If you elect to receive program communication via another means, please contact Program Headquarters. In addition to notifications regarding your rebate status, you will be sent special offers and communications electronically by Ford Motor Company and its affiliates if you elected to do so at registration. You can unsubscribe from special offers at any time by changing your account settings. Qualified independent auto repair facilities and body shops are entitled to the sixteen (16) “Independent Repair Facility and Body Shop” rebates offered in this program. Purchase invoice, repair order, and rebate form are required. Qualified independent repair facilities (IRF) and body shops are entitled to the rebates indicated on this form. Non-Ford Automotive OE Dealerships are eligible if they do not share ownership (private, public, whole, part) with a Ford or Lincoln Dealership. Open to legal residents of U.S. only. Non-powertrain assembly rebate offers are limited to up to six rebates per IRF/ Body Shop for each product offering during valid dates May 1 – August 31, 2011 (except otherwise noted). Where applicable, multiple quantities must be purchased on same invoice to qualify for rebate. Powertrain assembly redemptions may be redeemed unlimited times per IRF/Body Shop during valid dates. Rebate form must be complete and legible. Void once redeemed. No cash value. Rebate void if purchased, sold or bartered for cash or altered in any way. Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Excludes Fleet accounts. Valid toward purchases made during valid dates. Product must be purchased from a Ford or Lincoln Dealership, a Ford Authorized Distributor or an auto parts store. Check will be payable to the business name. Request for rebate along with supporting documentation must be submitted or postmarked within 30 days of invoice date. Please allow 6-8 weeks for delivery of rebate payout. Purchase invoice, rebate form, and repair order (customer information may be omitted) are required. Handwritten purchase invoices will not be accepted. Retain a copy of rebate and original invoice for your records in the event it is requested. Subject to Rules of Use available at http://ford.partsrebates.com. EMAIL: By providing your email address, you agree to receive email from Ford Customer Service Division. Visit http://ford.partsrebates.com for complete list of eligible program part numbers. Qualified independent auto repair facilities and body shops are entitled to the powertrain assembly rebates offered in this program. Purchase invoice, repair order, and rebate form are required.." READ MORE Source: by Ford Intake Manifold Removal Tip & Tool Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net Intermittents, Diagnosing in a 94 Source: by thedieselstop.com Is That Water in My Engine Oil?; "...rusty, yellow and foam indicates that somehow the radiator fluid got inside the engine..." Source: by gotengines.com KD-Tools Tool Tips Source: by kd-tools.com Kill Switch Wiring Diagrams; "...The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective. "ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Kill Switch; "...These are Hella battery switches with heavy-gauge battery wires, used on 03-up Land Rover Range Rovers & LR3s as transport cutoff switches, rated at 100A continuous; 1000A @12V for 10 sec. The battery terminals are unusual, but also high-quality. The wire with the post is about 17" and the other is about 28". The switch is on when the red key is inserted, pushed in, and turned to lock. The nosepiece of the switch is 1 1/4" long from the mounting face. The wires have heat-shrink wrapping at the switch terminals, but they can be removed easily, exposing posts with nuts. Hella spec page: (see URL in Steve's site); Wal-Mart is selling the CalTerm chinese knock-off of this switch for ~$10 now..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Labor Time Standards, Revised Reimbursement Procedures TSB 88-21-7 for Windshield Wiper Governor Replacement (0.5 Hours) in 87-89 Bronco, F Series, etc. Source: by performanceprobe.com Leak Detection Source: by thesmokemachine.com Leak Detection Source: by Dan M in July 03 MOTOR magazine via vacutech.com Leak Detection with UV/blue light, General (mostly ad, but good DIY info tips) Source: by tracerline.com Leak Detection, General Source: by aa1car.com Leak Down Tester Use Source: by Jeff S at Car Craft via proformparts.com LED Light Test Tool; "... I bought everything to make this tool at my local Radio Shack. The LED (pn 276-0270) is an automotive LED with a built in resistor. I soldered extra wire and added the alligator clips. You're gonna' love this tool! The LED is polarity specific, so you have to connect the red alligator clip to the voltage source indicated in the Ignition Coil & Control Module FAST TEST article and the black alligator clip to the control source (be it the ignition module/igniter or ECM or ground). Do not substitute a regular 12 volt lamp (Test Light) where ever a FAST TEST article calls for this LED test tool!..." See pic Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com Lenses Cleaning, and Various Plastic Source: by BurlyQ at FSB Loctite Product & Instructional Info Source: by Loctite  loctite.com Loctite Selection Guide Source: by Berry K at team.net Lube Inside of Spark Plug Wire Boots w/Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound; Provides high voltage seal to secondary ignition wires; Suppresses voltage leaks by coating inner distributor cap surface. Part Number XG-3-A 3 oz.; or use spec ESE-M1C171-A; Use Electrical Grease, Lubricates & protects electrical connectors; see TSB 98-24-6 New Electrical Terminal Grease; Provides a non-corrosive film for electrical switches and contacts. Protects connector metals from oxidation and corrosion; XG-12; Specification Number WSB-M1C239-A, 3 oz. CAUTION: ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR GREASE SHOULD NOT BE USED IN HIGH VOLTAGE CONNECTIONS FOR SPARK PLUG AND COIL WIRE APPLICATIONS & Low Current Flow Switches (12V Systems less than 0.1 amp). Source: by miesk5 at FSB Lubricant & Maintenance Materials Specifications & Capacities, Body, Driveline, Engine, Steering, Brake, etc. for 96 F Series & Bronco; Miesk5 Note, Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C ESA-M1C75-B is available as Castrol MP Multi-Purpose Chassis Grease is a NLGI #2 lithium based, water resistant grease or ConocoPhillips Moly Poly Grease NLGI No. 2 Source: by thedieselstop.com Lubricant Chart for a 94; Miesk5 Note, Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C ESA-M1C75-B is available as Castrol MP Multi-Purpose Chassis Grease is a NLGI #2 lithium based, water resistant grease or ConocoPhillips Moly Poly Grease NLGI No. 2 Source: by Mikey350 at SuperMotors.net Lubricant Chart TSB 89-08-16 for 80-89 Bronco & F Series Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Lubrication Chart for 4-wheel drive vehicles Source: by Chilton Lubrication, Daystar Polyurethane Bushing; "...Daystar™ Lubrathane is specially formulated with Teflon* so that it lubricates, insulates and penetrates. When applied during installation it creates a durable, protective film to lubricant between your polyurethane and metal components. It virtually eliminates metal to metal contact even under the most extreme conditions. Lubrathane is water proof and corrosion resistant, and will not attract dirt or sand..." Source: by Daystar Lubrication, Polyurethane Bushing; "...The best information we have acquired about this is from the people that prefer to use polyurethane. Here is a list: Slick 50 grease . Slick 50 spray lube. AntSeeze lube. Moly graph based wheel bearing grease. The key is to use a lube that will not wash out easily. A normal automotive type lube/grease will work or use a marine type lube. Check with your local marine/boat dealer for this. You can also use silicone spray lubricant (available in auto parts stores), it will provide an easy but temporary relief from squeaks..." miesk5 Note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contains oil, a regular occurrence now Source: by Ingalls ingallseng.com Maintenance & Lubrication in a 96 by thedieselstop.com Source: by thedieselstop.com Maintenance & Lubrication in a 96 by thedieselstop.com Source: by thedieselstop.com Maintenance Schedule, Light Duty for an 88 Source: by Chilton Maintenance Schedule, Light Truck for a 92 Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Maintenance Schedule, Severe-Duty for 96 Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Manual for the Wheeled Vehicle Driver; Off-Road & Winter Driving; FM 21-305/AFMAN 24-306 Source: by cascom.army.mil Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) Connector Re-Pining; "...was a spring type clip that's a part of the pins. I think I used a jeweler's screwdriver alongside the pins to release them. I don't remember which side worked best, but one end was better. It seemed real tough until I found the right place for the screwdriver, then they popped out easily. Move them over one at a time to keep the order..." Source: by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB Manual Transmission Fluid Chart; from 1996 to Current year, Ford Removed Bronco from the Catalog Source: by fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com Melting Temperatures of Metals Source: by auto-ware.com Metric Conversion Table Source: by Bresco Micron Grading compared to P-Grade Chart Source: by Eagle Abrasives  eagleabrasives.com MIG Welder, Lincoln Electric, Setting for Body Panels pic; "this is the perfect setting for sheet metal work---with 35 CFM of Ar/CO2; he shows slightly less than 2 and on E in the pic..." Source: by mickaila at FSB Mimimum Cable Size to Use (AWG) Table Source: motorcityreman.com Mini-Tube Vacuum Hose Service in Climate Control System in a 96; "...Measure the length of the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Cut a piece of standard 3mm (1/8-inch) ID vacuum hose approximately 25mm (1 inch) longer than the damaged area of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Cut the mini-tube vacuum hose on each side of the damaged area and remove damaged portion of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Dip the mini-tube hose ends in Tetra Hydro Furan (THF) or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). Either of these solvents will act as a sealer for the repair of the mini-tube vacuum hose. Insert the ends of the mini-tube vacuum hose approximately 9mm (3/8 inch) into the ends of the standard 3 mm (1/8-inch) ID replacement vacuum hose. Shake the service joint after assembly to make sure solvent is dispersed and vacuum line is not blocked internally. Test system for a vacuum leak in area serviced..." from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual Source: by thedieselstop.com National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) Study Guide Source: by freeasestudyguides.com New Jersey Lift Law & Inspection Experiences Source: by kayaker at comcast New Jersey Motor Vehicle Commission Inspection Process Categories Source: by state.nj.us No Crank, No Start, Stops Running, Backfires, Hesitation, Misfires, Knocks or Rattles, Poor Fuel Economy, Idle Problems, or Shifting Problems Diagnostic Worksheet Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Noise, Vibration & Harshness Training Course Source: by Ford Noise, Vibration and Harshness Diagnosis Training Course Source: by Ford Noise, Vibration, & Harshness Diagnostic Location Diagram & Worksheet Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Noise, Vibration, Harshness, Ride, Squeak & Rattles TSB 99-11-1 for 95-97 F 250, F 350, SD; 95-99 Econoline, Explorer, F 150, F 250, Ranger, Villager, Windstar and Many Others, Except that Ford Left Out Our Bronco Source: by Genco Normal Engine Vacuum at Idle; 15-22 in-Hg (-51 to -74 kPa) in 96 Bronco-F-Series Source: by thedieselstop.com Nut, Metric Size Table Source: by Bolt Depot™ boltdepot.com Nuts & Bolts Overview Source: by Bill A (BillaVista) at SuperMotors.net Nuts, Locking Source: by coastfab.com Nylon Fuel Line Connector Replacement Source: by broncoflorida at FSB Ohmmeters, Oscilloscopes, Oxygen Sensor Tips Source: by Tomco Inc. TI® tomco-inc.com Oil, SAE Viscosity Grade Recommendation; "...If you have a older engine, you can keep it going strong for years by increasing the oil you use to 20W 50. I have been running my engine with 5 quarts of 20W 50, 1 quart of Lukas Oil Stabilizer and a high quality filter for several years now all 4 seasons. That makes it a little stiff until it warms up when temperatures are in the teens, but that is easily solved by using a block heater to keep the oil warm..." Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums On-Board Welder Conversion w/GM Alternator Source: by Badass (Eric) at Carolina Broncos Online Automotive Service Information System (OASIS), Ford; "...accesses information stored in Ford databases to give access to vehicle information for 10 years (recalls will remain open until they are completed). An OASIS inquiry must be performed on every vehicle in for service. The information in OASIS includesGeneral Vehicle/Warranty Information: Enter the VIN to access Vehicle description (model year, engine size and calibration number, transmission and axle code); Warranty start date, build date, Open Field Service Actions (Recalls, CSPs, SSIs); ESP coverage, Warranty repair history, AWA repair counter..." Source: by Ford motorcraftservice.com Oxy-Acetylene Torch Set-up & Cutting Source: by John S (SquattyD) at FSB Oxygen Sensor Socket (Wrench) Depiction, Ford part number T94P-9472-A Source: by thedieselstop.com Penetrant Fluid; "...Ed's Red Recipe, Penetrating Oil for the masses. Ed's Red Recipe; December 15, 1995. Editor's Note: Ed Harris is a well known, knowledgeable gun writer with years of experience working for Ruger and the US government. The following article is a re-post of his famous "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner, which is an inexpensive, effective firearms cleaning agent. It also makes a VERY effective penetrating oil to help loosen stubborn fasteners. I've mixed Ed's Red, and one HAS to use it in a well ventilated area, preferably outside. If you use it inside, you really should use an appropriate respirator and exhaust fan to remove the volatile and potentially explosive fumes. YOU MUST FOLLOW DIRECTIONS AND WARNINGS ON USE. Mix Your Own "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner... It Really Works! By Ed Harris Rev. 12-27-94; Three years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" and I still think the "recipe" is a great idea. If you have never tried it, or maybe lost the recipe, I urge you save this and mix your own. My followers on the FIREARMS Echo think it's the best thing since smokeless powder! Therefore, I'll summarize the story again for the passing parade that didn't get it the first time. I originally did this because I used a lot of rifle bore cleaner and was deterred by the high price of commercial products. I knew there was no technical reason why you could not mix an effective bore cleaner using common hardware store ingredients which would be inexpensive, effective, and provide reasonable corrosion protection and adequate lubrication. The recipe is based on proven principles and incorporates two polar and two nonpolar ingredients. It is adapted from a formula in Hatcher's Notebook, Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18, but substituting equivalent modern materials. I had the help of an organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no "surprises" The original Hatcher recipe called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and optionally 200 grams of lanolin added per liter. Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. We use K-1 kerosene of the type normally sold for indoor space heaters. An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe or III) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most ATF's were sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision instruments. With the great demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The additives in ATFs which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it highly suitable for our intended purpose. Hatcher's original formula used gum spirits of turpentine, but turpentine is expensive and highly flammable. Cheaper and safer is aliphatic mineral spirits, which is a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and as automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names odorless mineral spirits, Stoddard Solvent or Varsol. There isn't anything in Ed's Red which will chemically remove copper fouling, but it does a better job on carbon residue than anything out there. Several users have told me, that with exclusive use of ER does reduce the buildup of copper fouling, because it removes old impacted fouling which is left by other cleaners, reducing the adhesion of abraded metal to the surface, and leaving a cleaner surface which reduces subsequent fouling. It appears that ER will actually remove metal fouling it if you let it soak so the surfactants will do the job, though you may have to be patient. The lanolin is optional. The cleaner works quite well without it. Incorporating the lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, and provides better residual lubrication and corrosion protection if you use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage. If you want to minimize cost, you can leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per gallon. Mix some yourself. I know it will work as well for you as it does for me CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner: 1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later. 1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute Stoddard Solvent, CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka Varsol) 1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1. (Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store). MIXING INSTRUCTIONS: Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is breathable because the acetone will evaporate. The acetone in ER will attack HDPE in about 6 months, making a heck of a mess! Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 oz's. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the mix. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING Ed's Red Bore Cleaner: 1. Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore. 2. Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action. 3. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled rattle battle guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use. 4. Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for up to 30 days. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. ER will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene. 5. Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes). 6. Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described. 7. I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out. LABEL AND OBLIGATORY SAFETY WARNINGS: RIFLE BORE CLEANER CAUTION: HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. 1. Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame. 2. FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly. 3. Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use. This Recipe is placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author. In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed..." Source: by Ed H via globalsoftware-inc.com Penetrant Fluid; "...Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a scientifically rusted environment. *Penetrating oil ..... Average load* None ..................... 516 pounds WD-40 .................. 238 pounds PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds *The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.* *Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. The results have been widely quoted on the internet, but the picture in the magazine allegedly shows power steering fluid and not ATF, and according to lbender (who claims to be the author) in this thread, it actually was power steering fluid (mixed with acetone) that they tested with. Lbender begins participating in the thread on its second page..." Source: by normnip at thehighroad.org Permatex® Selector Chart Source: by permatex.com Piston, Ring, Rod & Bearing Specifications, Bronco & Ford Source: by Federal-Mogul Plastigauge Application & Tips Source: by plastigauge.co.uk Plastigauge Usage Source: by fordmuscle.com Plastigauge, How it Works Source: by plastigaugeusa.com Pouring Fluids from Containers Source: by Mark H at madelectrical.com Powder Coating Source: by classictruckshop.com Pressurized Gear Lube Tank (some pics are missing) Source: by Erik M (The Anchor) at CC via web.archive.org Prices at Pick and Pull; "...Our pricing model is simple. Each part type (i.e., engine, radiator, etc) has the same price, regardless of the make, model or year of the vehicle. In some cases, a part may have different prices if it is for a car or for a pick-up / van. Parts marked with "Priced Up To" indicate the maximum price for a part with a price range; your actual price may be lower depending on the type and size of the part you select. Prices can vary between stores so be sure to select the location you plan to visit..." read more Source: by picknpull.com Primed Sheet Metal Prep Procedure & MSDS Information TSB 94-23-04 for 82 and after Bronco; 80 and after F-150-350 Series; 81 and after Econoline; 83 and after Ranger; 84-90 Bronco II; 86 and after Aerostar; 88 and after F Super Duty; 91 and after Explorer; 93 and after Villager; 95 Windstar, etc. Source: by performanceprobe.com Printable Thread Gauges & Other Tools for Identifying Nuts, Bolts, & Screws Source: by Bolt Depot™ boltdepot.com Propshaft Angle Correction Calculator Source: by vibratesoftware.com PTFE Lubricant; For use with: driveshaft slip yokes; especially where grunt-type noise is experienced; eliminating squeaks between plastic parts; speedometer cables; stops squeaking, sticking & binding Source: by fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com Pump Pump Installation Lessons Learned in a 92 Source: by digitalbill (Bill Crozier) at FSB Push Rod Length Tool Fabrication for Ford Roller Rocker Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at 4x4preservation.com Push Rod Length Tool Fabrication for Ford Roller Rocker Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at FSB Push Rod Length Tool Fabrication pics for Ford Roller Rocker Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at SuperMotors.net Rack, Metal Fabrication Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at 4x4preservation.com Rack, Metal Fabrication Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at 4x4preservation.com Rack, Metal Fabrication Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at FSB Rack, Metal Fabrication pics Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at SuperMotors.net Radiator Hose Cutter, use of Source: by skywaytools.com Relay Test, Ford (Bosch Type); "...Fuel pump relay switches, and other relays are similar to the starter solenoid, in that they make a high amperage connection through a switched low amperage connection. There are two smaller connections, and two larger connections. TO test it, apply 12v to one of the smaller connections, and ground the other smaller connection. (I used to small aligator clipped jumper wries separated by a small piece of cardboard to keep them from shorting against each other.) You should hear it click. Then check for continuity between the two larger connections.Now remove the power from the smaller connections and recheck continuity between the larger connections.With power, one should have continuity, without power it should be an open circuit (no continuity)..." Source: by Poppy (BroncoJoe19 (Joe)) at fordforumsonline.com Repair Costs, General Source: by Auto Repair Online Repair Locations Grid & Coding, Bronco Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code Source: by RepairPal Rivet Overview; General Scroll Down Source: by Mike W at bodyshopbusiness.com Rivet, Solid, Installation Guide Source: by Hanson Rivet hansonrivet.com Rockwell Hardness Definition Source: by arp-bolts.com Rod Bolt, Key Stretch Gauge Source: by arp-bolts.com Rod Bolt, Key Stretch Monitoring Chart Source: by arp-bolts.com Rotunda EEC-IV Monitor 007-0047F Description and Installation Source: by techcapri.com Rotunda EEC-IV Recorder Description and Installation Source: by techcapri.com Rotunda Test Equipment Depiction & Info from 94 PCED, EEC-IV Quick Test Procedures and Appendix Source: by thedieselstop.com RPM Measurement w/a diggie multimeter and some cheap parts Source: by Kieran D at fastcharged.org Russell Hose Info Source: by russellperformance.com Scan Tool Instructions; Actron®, Auto X-Ray, KAL Source: by tradervar.com Scan Tool, SnEEC-IV Overview & pic; "...This is probably the coolest way to test and diagnosis problems on your Ford EEC-IV EFI vehicle. This is the ultimate Brake-Out-Box, in a class called data-loggers! You don’t need a voltmeter, and all your friends will be jealous. Just like the BOB you mount the SnEEC between the 60-pin connector and the computer...." read more Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at oldfuelinjection.com Scan Tool, TwEECer® Overview, Forums, Downloads, etc.; "...The TwEECer® is an adapter which connects to the J3 service port of a Ford EEC PCM, giving you the ability to substitute parameters in the calibration data with parameters that match the modifications which you have made to your engine..." read more Source: by tweecer.com Screw Torque Specs Source: by thelenchannel.com Sea Foam® Motor Treatment FAQs Source: by seafoamsales.com Sea Foam® Motor Treatment Overview & Video Source: by seafoamsales.com Sea Foam® Trans Tune FAQs Source: by seafoamsales.com Sea Foam®, How To Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net Sea Foam®, How to Source: by Xris at FSB Sea Foam®, How To Source: by BroncoChuck at FSB Service Shop Listings Source: by allfordmustangs.com Sheet Metal Gauge Chart Source: by Hanson Rivet hansonrivet.com Sheet Metal Screw Diameter Table Source: by Bolt Depot™ boltdepot.com Sheet Metal Weight Source: by auto-ware.com Shift Point, Optimum Calculator Source: by Bowling & Grippo bgsoflex.com Shipping Discussion Source: by members at FSB Shop Air Piping Layout Diagrams Source: by Sharpe Manufacturing  sharpe1.com Silicone; test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contains oil, a regular occurrence now Source: by miesk5 at FSB SLOW & LONG Cranking Causes; "Slow cranking is battery, terminals, cables, relay, or starter. LONG cranking is compression, vacuum, fuel, oil pressure, or ignition..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB Smoke Machine™ Tech Tips Source: by The Smoke Machine™  thesmokemachine.com Solder-On Battery Terminal Procedure Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Spark Plug Firing End Analysis, General Source: by gnttype.org Spark Tester, DIY; W/ an old spark plug and cut off the L-shaped tip,& clean up the center electrode and surrounding metal with a bit of sandpaper. Drill a small hole in the thickest part of the metal. Use a metal screw to attach a length of wire, a couple of feet, to the body of the spark plug. To the other end of the wire, solder or otherwise attach a big alligator clip. Since the tip is cut off, the spark will have to be stronger to jump the wider gap. It is harder for a spark to form in a compressed cylinder so it more accurately represents the spark performance under running conditions. With the engine off, remove the spark plug wire you wish to test from the spark plug. Attach the spark tester to the plug wire and connect the alligator clip to a good ground. Remember that the coil output can give you a very nasty shock, so make sure to wear thick gloves or use a rag to hold the tester, and not to touch the body of the car when the system is energized. Hold the tester away from the car body and use your remote starter switch or have an assistant start the car (or simply turn it over). You should get a healthy bluish white spark from the center post to the side of the spark tester. COIL; If your coil is already off the Bronco, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole. Holding the plug wire with insulated pliers, find a spot on the engine that is a good and easily accessible grounding point. Pretty much any exposed metal, including the engine itself, will do. Holding the spark plug wire with your pliers, touch the threaded portion of the spark plug to the grounding point. Have somebody crank the engine with the key, and look for a bright blue spark to jump across the spark plug gap. If you see a nice, bright spark (clearly visible in daylight) your coil is doing its job. Source: by miesk5 at FSB Spot Weld Cutter pics; "...Astro Pneumatic 3/8" Spot weld cutter from Maxx autobody supply. $10 Canadian; The truth is I find you have to pilot first with a small drill bit (7/32")halfway into the first layer of metal otherwise it wanders all over the place. That said I found these very useful and will use them again..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net Spot Weld Cutter pics; "...Astro Pneumatic 3/8" Spot weld cutter from Maxx autobody supply. $10 Canadian; The truth is I find you have to pilot first with a small drill bit (7/32")halfway into the first layer of metal otherwise it wanders all over the place. That said I found these very useful and will use them again..." Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net Spray Gun Maintenance Source: by DeVilbiss Automotive Refinishing autorefinishdevilbiss.com Spring, Coil, Compressor Tool Source: by skywaytools.com Spring, Leaf, Torque Specs Source: by eatonsprings.com Starter Bolt Size & Torque for 92-96; "...Starter Style Ford 2-bolt, Stainless Steel, Polished, 12-Point 289, 302, 351W, 12-point, 3/8"-16,Underhead Length (in) 1.500 in., There will be two bolts holding it on, the upper bolt will have a 1/2" head and the lower bolt will have a 9/16" head; 1. Position solenoid to housing, ensuring that the solenoid plunger is attached through the drive lever. Bottom solenoid terminal (M) should have a metal strip attached to it. Tighten solenoid bolts to 5-10 N-m (45-89 in-lb). ..." READ MORE Source: by miesk5 at FSB Storage Tips, Vehicle Source: by musclecarclub.com Stud & Bolt Extraction Source: by Chris K at team.net Stud & Bolt Removal, Broken w/MIG Welder Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at FSB Stud & Bolt Removal, Broken w/MIG Welder Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at 4x4preservation.com Stud & Bolt Removal, Broken w/MIG Welder pics Source: by bossind (boss, Steve) at SuperMotors.net Stud Removal, Broken Tips Source: by Jack B of reds-headers.com Super Glue Removal Source: by supergluecorp.com T40 Upper Intake Socket Overview & pic; "... This tool is made to help remove the upper intake from your vehicle. It is not needed for all Ford intakes. Some intakes have longer bolts that are easier to reach. But if you can only see 4 or 5 of the bolts holding the upper intake on the engine, you’ll probably need one of these. The bolt that you can’t see way down in the middle has a torx 40 head. It is possible to make a chain of 3/8 or 1/4 drive socket pieces to reach these bolts. But this page is about all the cool tools you don’t have yet..." Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at oldfuelinjection.com Tap & Drill Size Table, Metric Source: by Bolt Depot™ boltdepot.com Tap & Drill Size Table, US Source: by Bolt Depot™ boltdepot.com Testing for a Blown Head Gasket in 4.9, 5.0, 5.8 Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com TFI Ignition System Tools Source: by arizonatools.com Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Wrench Overview & pic; "...This wrench is the only way to remove and replace a TFI module. It is a special 7/32¡È (5.5mm) socket with a very thin wall. The older design is smaller and used with a ¨ù inch drive socket set. The design changed to this newer model with plastic handle. In some rare occasions the TFI bolts will have a T-20 head; you can get a top of the line ratcheted TFI tool that has a 7/32¡È (5.5mm) end and a T-20 end. The TFI never needs to be torqued down with a socket set, so the simple plastic handle design is great and simple to use. To remove the TFI simply remove the two bolts, and slide the module downward. You MUST slide the TFI down before you pull it away from the distributor or it won¡¯t come off correctly..." Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at oldfuelinjection.com Thread Identification Chart Source: by mdmetric.com Thread Pitch & Thread Count Source: by Bolt Depot™ boltdepot.com Tie Rod End, Ball Joint, etc. Removal Tips Source: by Zach K (BurnedB, BurnedBronco, Badassbronco) at FSB Tie Rod End, Ball Joint, etc. Removal Tips Info & pics Source: by Zach K (BurnedB, BurnedBronco, Badassbronco) at SuperMotors.net Tip-In Moan is a light moaning noise heard when the vehicle is lightly accelerated, usually between 40-104 km/h (25-65 mph) Source: by thedieselstop.com Tire Wear Symptoms; "...Scrubbed tires indicate the wheels have incorrect toe. Parts to check are the idler arm, strut rod bushings, tie-rod ends, pitman arm and center link. Cupped tires are symptoms of incorrect camber. Parts that could be worn and ready to replace are the ball joint, coil springs and control-arm bushings. Cupped tires may also be a symptom of frame fatigue. Uneven tire wear suggests that the alignment is loose or parts are worn. Check for loose wheel bearings, loose ball joints and worn bushings. Make sure the wheels are balanced, and inspect the shock absorbers. Variable tire wear indicates the tires are improperly inflated. Overinflated tires have excessive wear in the center; underinflated tires have excessive outer wear. Make sure tires are inflated to the proper pressure. Regularly inspecting the three interrelated systems — braking, steering and suspension — and replacing worn parts help assure safe, trouble-free driving. MOOG® chassis parts play a vital role in safety by helping maintain optimum steering control and providing superior handling and stability..." Source: by MOOG® at federalmogul.com Tooth Contact Pattern Check Source: by fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com Top Dead Center: "...There are two ways to find TDC #1..." Source: by totalengineairflow.com Torque & Fastener Matching Information Source: by coastfab.com Torque Chart, 260, 289, 302, 351W, 351M/400M, 429-460, 360, 390, 406, 427, 428 FE Source: by gearheadracing.com via replay.waybackmachine.org Torque Conversion, to various Source: by Sturtevant Richmont srtorque.com Torque Recommendations, Ford Rod Bolts Stretch and Torque Specs Source: by arp-bolts.com Torque Specs, Bolt & Screw Source: by thelenchannel.com Torque Specs, Leaf Spring Source: by eatonsprings.com Torque Specs; Lug Nut; Nut/Bolt/Stud for Radius Arm, Coil & Leaf Spring, Shock Absorber, Stabilizer Bar, Axle Pivot Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Torque Wrench Use Source: by arp-bolts.com Training Center Locations, Ford; Click on a state on the mapto view training centers Source: by Ford Training Course Scheduling, Ford; "...Course scheduling is determined by the dealer’s input to their regional Training Center. Courses are scheduled based on the volume of course requests generated by the local dealers. Schedules are sent to all Ford and Lincoln-Mercury dealers on a monthly basis. Schedules are generated over the Combat system and are available by the first day of the month. The schedule identifies the courses and the training location where they will be presented.Course requests and enrollment procedures are outlined below..." READ MORE Source: by Ford Training Courses, Various; scroll through Source: by Ford Trim Glues Guides Source: by Jerry K at teamnet.com Tube Bender Stand pics & Dimensions Source: by 90Beater (Topher, Chris) at bronco.tophersworld.com Tube Bending 101 Source: by Rob P at pirate4x4.com Tube Cutting & Flaring Tips, general Source: by yellowjacket.com Tube Tech, Ford Full size Discussion & pics Source: by Pirate4x4.Com Tubing; Round & Square Weight Source: by auto-ware.com Ty Raps Specs & Information Source: by coastfab.com UPS Package Tracking Source: by ups.com US to Metric Conversion Table Source: by Bolt Depot™ boltdepot.com Vacuum Gauge Diagnosis for Carbureted Engines Source: by Craig U at classictruckshop.com Vacuum Gauge Diagnosis Video Source: by realfixesrealfast Vacuum Leak Symptoms, General; "...Too fast an idle speed; A rough idle or stalling; Hesitation or misfiring when accelerating; An idle mixture that defies adjustment (carburetor) Source: by aa1car.com Vacuum Leak Test; "...Okay, now that we have covered what a vacuum leaks do, how do you find components that leak vacuum? One way is to visually inspect all the vacuum hoses and connections. Look for disconnected, loose or cracked hoses, broken fittings, etc. Hey, you might get lucky and find the problem in a few minutes, or you might waste half the day trying to find the mysterious leak. Vacuum leaks are often the elusive needle in a haystack. And if it is not a hose leaking vacuum but something else such as a gasket, worn throttle shaft, injector O-rings, etc., you may never find it using this technique. A faster technique for finding intake manifold vacuum leaks is to get a bottle of propane and attach a length of rubber hose to the gas valve. Open the valve so you have a steady flow of gas. Then hold the hose near suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, propane will be siphoned in through the leak. The resulting correction in the engine's air/fuel ratio should cause a noticeable change in idle speed and/or smoothness (Note: on engines with computerized idle speed control, disconnect the idle speed control motor first). Aerosol carburetor cleaner can also be used the same way. CAUTION: Solvent is extremely flammable, so do not smoke or use it if there are any sparks in the vicinity (arcing plug wires, for example). Spray the solvent on suspected leak points while the engine is idling. If there is a leak, the solvent will be drawn into the engine and have the same effect as the propane. The idle speed will suddenly change and smooth out..." Source: by aa1car.com Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing for a 96 5.8; "...McMaster-Carr: Multple colors of 5/32in reinforced nylon lines. Using a lighter I reproduced/improved the corners where the line breakouts occured in the plastic loom tubing and retaped the vacuum harness back together as a bundle..." Source: by BlueBronco5.8 at FSB Vacuum Line (Hose) Sourcing; "...Use 3/16" vacuum line. I replaced every single one of those hard plastic ones on my 93 BKO and it even cleared a bad vacuum condition with the EGR..." Source: by NineT3 & members at FSB Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; built for less than $20, we call it the "Cheap Little Sucker"; from a freon compressor off of a beer keg cooler; "...This is the vacuum pump that Tim Cook and I designed and built for less than $20, we call it the "Cheap Little Sucker". It was so effective that EAI now supplys the plans with the Berkut kit. As you can see it is a very simple design. The big round black thing is a freon compressor off of a beer keg cooler. It was just junked, but a closer inspection revealed that the thermostat was the only thing that was wrong with the cooler. You can also use an automobile A/C compressor and an electric motor. Remember: on the opposite side of a compressor IS a vacuum. Therefore, we put a compression fitting, a couple of 'T' fittings, a bleeder valve, and an automotive vacuum guage on the vacuum side of the compressor. Wired in a switch and away we went! It worked great! Very little noise, heat and capable of pulling 25+ inches of vacuum - what more could you ask for? To take a look at the pump diagram click here. If you need more assistance, HERE is the text for the plans that were published in the Berkut newsletter. Note: (If you choose to use a refrigeration unit for your pump, be sure to properly dispose of (or re-cycle) the freon in the system before you start. Do NOT just cut the lines and let the freon out. The last thing you want to do is damage the very atmosphere that you will fly through one day - hopefully it will still be there.).." Source: by Jame R and Tim C at berkut13.com Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; convert a tire inflator-type air compressor into a vacuum pump Source: by drcrash at instructables.com Vacuum Pump Build Plans, DIY; make a manual vacuum pump for under $20 by converting a bicycle pump Source: by drcrash at instructables.com Vehicle Shipping FAQ Source: by auto-car-transport.com Vehicle Storage TSB 88-09-09 for all 87-89 Truck & Car Lines Source: by performanceprobe.com Vibration Diagnosis & Terms Source: by sandiegoenginebalancing.com Vibrations; Vibrate Software is an Automobile and Truck Vibration Diagnosis Software Program(s); Miesk5 Note; This is what a pro would use if called into a dealership or a GOOD shop that will stop trying to find a problem with the usual supsects; go the the drill-down and use the info as a guide; Engine Speed Related Vibration, Engine Speed Related Vibration & Belt-Driven Accessory Speed Related Vibrations; Check what you can yourself or w/ a helper to narrow the List down Source: by vibratesoftware.com Videos, Ford Technical Engine & Components; Edelbrock Carburetor Installation, Timing, Alternator & Starter, etc. Source: by fordcobraengines.com Voltage Drop Test Video, General Source: by Federal-Mogul Washers, Aircraft, Series & Types Information Source: by coastfab.com Water Pump Bolt Removal Process Source: by 79broncorama at FSB Waterproofing the EEC Discussion Source: by members at FSB Weather Strip Lubrication in a 96; "...Replace all door weatherstrips that are damaged or worn. Apply Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A to the weatherstripping..." miesk5 Note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contains oil, a regular occurrence now Source: by thedieselstop.com Weather Strip Lubrication in a 96; "...Replace all door weatherstrips that are damaged or worn. Apply Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A to the weatherstripping..." miesk5 Note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contains oil, a regular occurrence now Source: by thedieselstop.com Welding Articles Source: by Lincoln Electric lincolnelectric.com Welding Manual, Haynes Source: by Haynes via truckporn.com Welding, How to Choose a Gas for GMAW Source: by Sam at BC4x4.com Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque (this is for 3 screw cap auto locking hubs & 1 locknut): "While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten to 68 N-m (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Wheel Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn).Tighten to 1.8 N-m (16 Lb-In)." Source: by miesk5 at FSB Wire & Sheet Metal Gauges Source: by auto-ware.com Yield & Tensile Strength of Materials Source: by auto-ware.com Yoke Removal Replacement or Pinion Gear Seal Install Tools & Tip; "...15 Gallon Air Compressor, found it on sale for 80 bucks at Advance Auto Parts. 1/2" 220 ft/lb impact; Insert the fan wrench under the yoke bolt holes tight up against the casting. Push the ends of the tool so it sits tight against the yoke body. The tools are beefy and 1/4 inch thick. I used a basic 1/2 inch ratchet to hold the steel plate while i pounded it with the impact air tool. It took a long time to break the 32 year old pinion nut off the yoke of my solid axle but it worked like a charm. I would not have been able to do it without air tools. Tap the bottom of the yoke and it will pop right off. Replace the seal or continue on with your tear down. Source: by foxbravo (aka broncobrando) at FSB Yoke Torque Tool & Use Info & pics Source: by BlueBronco (Blue) at SuperMotors.net