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FORD BRONCO -> ENGINE & COOLING; swaps, specs, snorkels, vac. diagrams... -> Oil Pump

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General Engine Specifications in 96 Bronco & F-Series from 1996 All F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Vehicles Equipped with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L or 7.5L Gasoline Engines, & 7.3L Diesel Engines Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com

Installation in a 79 400M
Source: by psychlopath at FSB

Installation in a 90 5.0 Entry #12; pics are gone; "...The installation. Well, finally found the Fel-Pro one-piece gasket set I was looking for. Just as some advice, stay away from those multi-piece gasket sets - they are junk in my opinion. The Fel-Pro came with some nifty plastic studs that made the installation go real easy. The studs (about 3 inches long) screw in the corner (1/2 inch) bolt holes and the gasket is slid over the studs and stay in place via the flange on the plastic stud...sort of "snaps" over these retainers. The first thing done was to scrape any dirt and loose debris from the tranny cover plate and the block and anywhere else you don't want loose crap falling into the pan during the installation process. Next, scrape and clean the engine block mating surface where the gasket will sit. I removed the fan belt and the fan & clutch assembly at this time to facilitate the insertion of the oil pan through the front. Install the oil pump with the 2 bolts and gasket if required. Tip: I placed an old towel over the cross member where the oil pan will be slid to prevent and scratching of my new paint job on the pan. Place oil pan onto the cross member - semi in place at this time - the oil pickup needs to be bolted to the oil pump and engine block at this time - use appropriate gasket. Lift pan into place over the plastic studs - place the steel straps to the bottom of the pan lip - and start placing the many 3/8 inch bolts around the pan - hand tight at first. Run just the socket and extension or a speed handle to lightly snug the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to prevent warping the pan. Ensure the gasket is where it is supposed to be at this time and has not moved off. Note: The oil pan and the steel straps also conveniently snap onto the plastic studs...this is a great innovation by the boys at Fel-Pro and definitely worth the extra cash for one of their gasket sets. Snug all bolts - remove the plastic studs - install 1/2 inch corner bolts and using the criss-cross technique tighten all bolts to spec'd torque. Inspect all work - check that no bolts were missed. Place floor jack with block of wood under the oil pan (use a piece of cloth between the wood and the pan to prevent injury to the painted surface of pan. Jack the engine up - and remove the wood blocks from the engine mounts. Carefully lower the engine onto the mounts - ensure engine is aligned - I found that mine moved off a slight bit and required some adjustments to be made - a piece of 2x6 and a clamp between the starter motor and frame made it easy to re-align. Drop the engine onto mounts - place large nuts back onto the mount bolts and tighten to specified torque. Reconnect any items that were disconnected earlier - i.e. O2 sensor and block heater in my case. And that is ALL ! That is it - Refill Oil - start engine and check for leaks. p.s. My leaks check will be done later - many other parts of my engine still are not together. Some shots. Make sure you PRIME the oil pump before installation - Petroleum jelly stuffed in it or engine oil on intake while turning the crankshaft of pump. Not much to show in photos today - this is a shot of the oil pump installed - Note the wood blocks holding the engine up up and away. As always, click on pix for a larger shot..."
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at rfr.htmlplanet.com via web.archive.org

Installation in a 94
Source: by Mikey350 at SuperMotors.net

Installation in a 95 5.8
Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco) at FSB

Installation in a 95 5.8
Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco) at SuperMotors.net

Installation in an 89 5.8
Source: by Waltman at FSB

Installation in an 89 5.8
Source: by Waltman at SuperMotors.net

Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 78 w/Nomenclature
Source: by Indybronco (Lula Mae) at SuperMotors.net

Parts Break-Out Diagram in an 88 460
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at ylobronc.users.superford.org

Parts pics in a 92
Source: by Alejoint at SuperMotors.net

Removal in a 90 5.0; pics are gone; entry #11; part of his pump replacement); "...I got my camera back - whoohoo! So now I can post pix once again. The job this time was to remove the oil pan to replace the gasket. At the same time I figured it would be a good idea to inspect the oil pump whilst I have the stuff ripped apart. This journal entry only covers the removal and things done this weekend, the installation and pump inspection etc. will be journalized in the next few entries, so this one should be short. Waiting for an exhaust manifold. Not yet journalized is my FUN with removing the LH (driver's side) exhaust manifold. In brief, to catch you up, I had to remove the LH EM to repair a broken STUD at the rear. What I discovered was that the idiot that installed the manifold, installed a LH manifold from a '92 302. Boys & Girls...this casting does NOT fit the 1990 302 or prior models. He forced the thing on, wrecking several bolts and snapping the rear-most stud off. I will tell more when I get to journalize the installation of a new manifold (3rd party of course - the ford castings are crap - crack-a-lots they are) that I recently purchased. The new manifold (enhanced forged) was a mere $49.00 USD. But, since I have to wait for the baby, I thought the "down time" would be a good time to do other work - namely the oil pan. The extraction. Yikes !!! There is something to be said about just removing the darn engine and give it a minor overhaul on the stand. Well, I don't have the facilities and also (to be honest) never realized the amount of "little things" that needed to be done on this bronco - should have shot it and went on to the next horse huh? NAH !!! That is why there are so many lemons sold on the used market - too many jerks filling their engines with STOP LEAK and selling it to some poor bastard. I like broncos and this evil chain of nasty pass-the-problem has to stop somewhere! Rant is now concluded...on with the journal. The first thing to do is remove the upper intake plenum (sigh - again). This is covered in Journal#10. Remove the Fan and Fan Clutch - remove the belt first with a breaker bar or in my case a long 1/2" handle and 5/8 inch socket... see Journal #6 for a picture of the welded handle. Remove BOTH exhaust pipes (crossover pipe couplings) - in my case I had to only do the RH side - as the LH was already removed for the new manifold. Remove the Nuts and Washers from the ENGINE MOUNTS from underneath. You can remove the Radiator if you wish - the coolant should be drained because of the coolant hoses that go to the Throttle Body Assembly. I chose not to remove it - and had no problems - just be careful not to jam the oil pan into the radiator - or you will have another problem to deal with. Drain the Oil. Place a floor jack under the Oil Pan - and a good hefty block of wood between the pan and the jack cup. Lift the engine only as high as needed - I find that it almost touches the firewall. Make sure there is enough strain and service slack in all hoses etc - don't break anything. Once the engine is lifted - insert wood blocks between engine mounts - and lower the engine onto these blocks - be careful here. If you tack or glue a small block at the end of some 2x2 or 2x4 blocks - it prevents them from falling through and onto the floor. Wedge it up with some 1/8 inch hardwood pieces until they are firm - I tapped mine in with a small mallet. The blocks are about 4 to 6 inches in length. Remove the floor jack. Remove all the 3/8 bolts around the Pan, and the four 1/2 inch bolts (2 at front - 2 at rear of pan). Drop the Pan to the cross member. ( You remembered to drain the oil first right?). Remove the Oil pick up tube - to oil pump - 2 x 1/2 inch bolts, and the bracket bolt to block - this I think was a 9/16 inch bolt. Let the stuff fall into the pan. Shimmy the pan forward over the cross member - lift up and out through the FRONT of engine. If your removed the radiator - it might have been easier - but there still is that radiator support that butters the whole operation anyways. That is it - Oil Pan is removed with minimal of swearing. p.s. I found that you should NOT use RTV on the upper intake to lower intake manifold gasket - I tore my NEW gasket during the plenum removal sequence and now need another - GOOD GRIEF - I guess it is live-and-learn at Mark's Garage for the criminally stupid. Some Restorative on the Oil Pan. The oil pan was given a good cleaning and wash. The pan itself showed its age - much of the original paint was mere flakes where there still was any paint. We'll let the photos do the talking. This is a photo of the removed oil pan. It got a acetone and gasoline washing inside and out. Here, I took a disk sander and scraper and removed as much of the flakes and rust off of the pan. This is a shot of the pan after a coat of RUST CONVERTER solution. The stuff is magic - it literally converts a rusty surface into a primed and ready to paint surface. Since this pan is going into a truck that will be used a lot - I did not find it necessary to make this particular job PERFECT. What would be the point? And finally, the painted oil pan. I used "New Ford Grey" Engine Paint. Bought in aerosol the stuff is easy to work with and applies even and thick and dries quick. This pan is ready for installation. Oil Pump Removal, Inspection & Cleaning. While I am at it, I thought this would be a good time to inspect the oil pump for wear etc. The removal was easy - just 2 bolts to remove and the pump comes off. The driveshaft to the pump simply slides out. Open the bottom plate - 4 x 7/16" bolts to inspect the outer race-to-housing clearance. Mine was a snug 0.0015 on the feeler gauge. Also you must check the endplay - also was about 0.0015. Looked good to go - just needed a quick and general cleaning to remove any crud or burn-on. (This is simply a feel-good operation, knowing you are putting in clean parts.) Some pictures showing the oil pump, before & after general cleaning. Stay tuned for the installation part...should be next journal entry in a few days when time permits..." pics are gone
Source: by RFR (Mark B) at rfr.htmlplanet.com via web.archive.org

Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code; miesk5 Note; The stock gauge & Sender will drop off after pressure reaches a certain level. You might actually have 5 psi, but the gauge will read 0 PSI. & "...Technically all you need is 10 psi of oil pressure per 1,000 rpms . I still would not feel comfortable with less then 20 psi at idle. If it is lower then that, you can also get a thicker oil." by 420nitro
Source: by RepairPal

Replacement in an 89 5.8
Source: by Ptack1 (Balding Bronco) at FSB

Warning Light Overview in 92-96; "Check Engine, Charging System, Air Bag (if Equipped), Safety Belt, High Beam, LH/RH Turn Signals, Overdrive/Overdrive Off, 4x4 Low and High Range Indicators with Lever Operated Transfer Case, Anti-Theft, Engine Coolant Temperature, Battery Voltage, Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, Tachometer (if Equipped)..." read more; miesk5 Note; The stock gauge & Sender will drop off after pressure reaches a certain level. You might actually have 5 psi, but the gauge will read 0 PSI. & "...Technically all you need is 10 psi of oil pressure per 1,000 rpms . I still would not feel comfortable with less then 20 psi at idle. If it is lower then that, you can also get a thicker oil." by 420nitro
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net