| Select A Link: |
|
"...Because many of the new alternators are capable of charging at rates in excess of 110 Amps, the battery should be fully charged before use to avoid overheating the alternator by trying to use it as a battery charger. Alternators are NOT battery chargers, they are battery maintainers as well as supplying current for vehicle amenities. Symptoms of this type of damage are a burnt stator. In many newer vehicles, the alternator is located in an area that allows very little ventilation. The area around the rectifier on the back of the alternator plugs up with dirt and fibers, causing the unit to overheat. Rear alternator bearing failure may be caused by over tightening the belt or a seized belt tensioner. The bearing is retained in the alternator by either an aluminum ring or a plastic retainer, which under pressure, will collapse. Drive belt slippage may cause overheating and bearing damage. Thread damage on the rotor of the alternator is caused by improper pulley installation methods. Cracked terminal insulators are cuased by over tightening the terminal nuts. Improper changing of the alternator clock postion may result in broken brushes and brush holders..."
Source: by thirskauto.net via web.archive.org
|
3G Interchange Facts
Source: by Clarko (B-Ronk, Brian C) at FSB
|
3G Interchange Facts
Source: by Clarko (B-Ronk, Brian C) at The Web Wheeler
|
100 amp Installation in a 79
Source: by axaviere (Truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Bracket Mod in a 90
Source: by Bob K (RLKBOB) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation (95 Mercury Sable 3.0L) in a 91
Source: by Tiffany M (tmwalmart) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 91
Source: by California Monkey (Richard, Mama Cass) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 91
Source: by DcSkater602 (Steve) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 92
Source: by G Red at FTE
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 94
Source: by Eric B (BlazenXLT) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 94
Source: by Damon H (Plug Ugly) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 95
Source: by TRUCKY18 (Bco) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 95
Source: by jam0o0 at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 95 (must register to view)
Source: by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at bucknakedoffroad.com
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in a 96
Source: by zrxw13 at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 81
Source: by 81Bronk36 (Matt K, 1BadBronco) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 81
Source: by 81Bronk36 (Matt K, 1BadBronco) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 83
Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 85
Source: by Chris C (Chris85xlt, Erika) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 85
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at chrisb.users.superford.org
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 85
Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 85
Source: by Tim O (RED WAGON, redwagon) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 86
Source: by BigNorm (Old Desert Goat) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 86
Source: by pantsman at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 88
Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at ylobronc.users.superford.org
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 88
Source: by bAdKARma88 (Perry T, Bad Karma) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 89
Source: by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 89
Source: by Kurt R (Big Burgandy Beeyotch (B3)) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 89
Source: by Kurt R (Big Burgandy Beeyotch (B3)) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 89
Source: by Will H (kf4amu, The Beast) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 89 5.8 (SOLD, but Brian is keeping his info available
Source: by Brian S at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 90
Source: by flame god at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation in an 93
Source: by Bobby (blue) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation info & pics in a 92
Source: by topfisherman at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation Info & pics in an 85
Source: by Tim O (RED WAGON, redwagon) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation Instructions, PA Performance, in an 86
Source: by Xris at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) Installation Instructions, PA Performance, in an 86
Source: by xris at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in a 91
Source: by DcSkater602 (Steve) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in a 91
Source: by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in a 92
Source: by Tank92 (Tank) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in a 93
Source: by Bobby (blue) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in a 94
Source: by Eric B (BlazenXLT) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in a 95
Source: by Ian L (stangmata, stangmata50l, Bronco) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in an 85
Source: by Chris C (Chris85xlt, Erika) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in an 90
Source: by flame god at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Installation pics in an 93
Source: by kingpinfarr (My Lil Mule) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Parts Break-Out Diagram©
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
|
130 amp (3G) pics in an 87
Source: by Jeremiah S (tripleh87, The Beast) at SuperMotors.net
|
130 amp (3G) Test Stand Results
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
|
160 amp (3G) Installation in a 96
Source: by vegasbronco1 at SuperMotors.net
|
160 amp (3G) PA Performance pic in 79; "...160 amp 3G alt from P-A Perf. Bolts right in with no mods (on a 79 Bronco) ..."
Source: by dotcom (High Country Hotel) at SuperMotors.net
|
160 amp (3G), Ford Parts Break-Out Diagram & info
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) via at FSB
|
1G Wiring Diagram
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) via John S (SquattyD) at FSB
|
1G Wiring Diagram
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
200 amp (3G) Installation in an 89
Source: by Andrew K (Andy351, das panzer, sloppy seconds, the magic carpet) at FSB
|
200 amp (3G) Installation in an 88
Source: by Reptillikus (Project 4D2, Kevin W) at forensick.net
|
200 amp (3G) Installation pics in an 89
Source: by Andrew K (Andy351, das panzer, sloppy seconds, the magic carpet) at SuperMotors.net
|
200 amp Delco Remy Installation pics in an 85
Source: by Paul I (MikE2, F 150,, Blackie for right now) at SuperMotors.net
|
220 amp AIS Installation pics in a 91
Source: by Eric L (The Rig, SOLD) at SuperMotors.net
|
220 amp, AIS Installation in a 91
Source: by Eric L (The Rig, SOLD) at SuperMotors.net erlong
|
2G Parts Break-Out Diagram; "...This type produces ~60~100A, and was typically used on early fuel-injected engines from the mid-80s to the early 90s. The 2G is famous for catching fire, usually due to a poor connection at the rectifier. The result of these fires was the development of a new Electrical Grease (not to be confused with Dielectric Grease)..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
2G, 75 amp; 3G, 75 amp, 130 amp & 200 amp Performance Output Diagram
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
3G & Battery Cable Upgrade in a 95
Source: by Late Model Man (Rick, Big Nasty, Beast, latemodelman) at FSB
|
3G & Battery Wiring Upgrade pics in a 95
Source: by Late Model Man (Rick, Big Nasty, Beast, latemodelman) at SuperMotors.net
|
3G - 95 amp & 130 amp dimensions & pics, Ford
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB
|
3G Installation in a 90
Source: by flamedfordbronco (Frank H) at FSB
|
3G Installation, Torque Specs, Parts Break-Out Diagram, etc.
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
3G Voltage Regulator (similar to 2G) Depiction; "... terminal: receives battery power for Field and senses battery voltage
S terminal: detects Stator output (1/2 B voltage) for ALT indicator control
I terminal: detects key-on to energize voltage regulator, and provides ground to ALT indicator in dash
A brush screw: connected directly to A terminal (thus to Battery positive) and Field winding
F brush screw: ground side of Rotor's Field winding, receives varying ground signal from regulator
S (out): sends ~1/2 B voltage to regulator S terminal to indicate normal operation & suppress the indicator
B terminal: sends current to the vehicle & battery
Mounting points: provide ground reference to voltage regulator, and ground path for Field input & Stator output..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
3G Wiring Diagram
Source: by Tire_Biter (Don M) at fte
|
4G Wiring Diagram
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
60-100 amp (2G) Wiring Diagram
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
|
6G Wiring Diagram w/Gray & Black Regulators
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
6G Wiring Diagram w/White Regulator
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
95 amp (3G) Wiring Diagram
Source: by Bobby (blue) at SuperMotors.net
|
Alternator Power Loss Chart, GENERAL: A chart graphing engine power losses at different alternator outputs
Source: by performanceunlimited.com
|
Alternator Test; "...The battery must be fully charged (see fig. 1). Run the engine and verify that no-load voltage is 13.8 - 15.3V (check as in fig. 1). Next, load the alternator to rated output current with a carbon pile across the battery MIESK5 NOTE, just load it by turning AC, head lights, flashers, rear window defroster, & ws wipers ON. Run the engine @ 2000 RPM. Check the current with an 80i-410 or 80i-1010 current clamp. The unit must maintain at least 12.6V @ rated output..." read more
Source: by assets.fluke.com
|
Battery and Charging System, Service in a 96 5.0 and 5.8 from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual; With the engine running at 2000 rpm, check the generator output voltage. The voltage should be between 13.0 and 15.0 volts.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
|
Charge Indicator Lamp Relay Location in Engine Bay Diagram in a 90
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net
|
Charge Indicator Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series
Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery
|
Charging System Light in a 96; "...This light, shown as a battery symbol on your cluster, indicates that your battery is not being charged and that you need to have the electrical system checked. & from Workshop Manual - The charge indicator lights if the voltage in the integral alternator drops below a preset level while the ignition switch lock cylinder is in RUN. The charge indicator light comes on every time the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or START. The light should go off when the engine starts and the alternator begins to charge..."
Source: by Ford via Hiller Ford & miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Charging System Maintenance Intervals, General
Source: by icarumba.com
|
Charging System Troubleshooting, General
Source: by icarumba.com
|
Comparison & 92-97 Charging System Wiring Diagram; "...With an external wire from the S terminal to the B (output stud), the later PCM-controlled alternator can be installed in older cars if the correct connector & pinout are used. 98-02 4G cars will require the LG/R wire to be moved; older 3G cars will require the correct connector be spliced on. ERROR - the caption of the far R wiring diagram should say:Note Stator circuit is a battery-voltage feed to the PCM and police fuses..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Connector Depictions, 63 to Present
Source: by ronfrancis.com
|
Connector Location Diagram, Engine Area in a 95
Source: by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at SuperMotors.net
|
Connector, IAR (part ad); "...possibility of a bad plug causing repeated unit failure or harness burn-up.."
Source: by genco1.com
|
Connector, IAR Burn-Up, Ford; "...Due to a design flaw from the factory these units are prone to burn up. When replacing these units it is very easy to spread the wiring harness connectors. When this occurs, an electrical arcing takes place and will burn out the unit and harness. Due to excessive heat buildup at the output terminals the original plug is usually brittle and cracked, this is not something distinguishable by the naked eye. Chances are it is damaged and not useable. You will notice that OCA IAR units come with a brand new wire plug and installed with dielectric grease..."
Source: by mrreman.com via web.archive.org
|
Connector, IAR Burn-Up, Ford; "fires allegedly caused by the Ford Alternator. Ford uses a plug connector and not the conventional attachment. Investigators think that this plug connector develops high resistance over time and becomes even more dangerous when it is removed and reconnected..."
Source: by interFIRE interfire.org
|
Connector, IAR Burn-Up, Ford; loose connection between rectifier & wiring harness
Source: by WAI® Wetherill Associates, Inc. waiglobal.com
|
Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Disassembly & Assembly, & Adjustment Procedures; & Specifications in a 96 from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
|
Diode Leakage Test; "...To check alternator diode leakage, connect the multimeter in series with the alternator output terminal when the car is not running. Leakage current should be a couple of milliamps at most; more often, it will be on the order of 0.5 milliamps. Use care when disconnecting the alternator output wire; make sure the battery is disconnected first..."
Source: by assets.fluke.com
|
Diode Pattern Waveforms, Bad; "...This waveform was captured using the diode pattern test located in the engine tests menu. This particular alternator has a bad rectifier, causing an AC voltage to ride on top of the DC voltage signal. This AC voltage affected the pip and spout signals (Ford primary ignition signals) causing a no code driveability problem. The fix was to replace the alternator. This waveform was captured using the diode pattern test located in the engine tests menu. This alternator, like the previous alternator, has a bad rectifier. This is another example of how a bad rectifier can affect the diode pattern. The fix was to replace the alternator. This waveform was captured using the lab scope. This is a good example of how an alternator with a bad diode can affect other signals that the ECM looks at. In this case it is an IAC motor. When viewing waveforms that have a lot of hash always look at the alternator diode pattern as a possible cause..."
Source: by omitec.com
|
Disconnect Concept Video in a 94; "...testing the concept of an alternator disconnect to increase fuel efficiency. the idea is that by shutting off the power to the alternator's exciter feild the alternator will freespool and reduce parasitic load on the engine. you cant tell by the video but there is a definate change in the sound when i unplugged the exciter feild..."; MIESK5 Note, Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by pfun41 at youtube.com
|
DTC P1359 Spark output circuit condition; ECM detected no SPOUT signal from distributor. Probable Cause: SPOUT connector missing; Open circuit condition; Ignition control module fault. 1. Check the Spark Output (SPOUT) connector near the Ignition Control Module (ICM) at the rear of driver side fender apron (near hood hinge) to see if the SPOUT connector is missing or is making poor contact to the connector. 2. If the SPOUT connector & connection appear to be in good condition, install a timing light onto #1 spark plug wire and check for timing advance at idle with the engine running.
Ignition timing should indicate 10 degrees BTDC with the SPOUT connector removed but timing should then advance when the connector is plugged back in. 3. If there is no timing advance using a timing light, check the Pink (PK) wire at the ICM connection for a square-wave signal as the engine is running using a labscope. 4. If there is no signal present on the PK wire, check the PK wire between the ICM and PCM pin 50 for an open circuit. 5. If the circuit checks to be OK and ignition timing appears to be advancing over base timing with the SPOUT connector installed, clear the code, disconnect the voltage regulator at the alternator and drive the vehicle for several miles to check for the light to illuminate and the code to reset. 6. Check coil output of all individual spark plug wire ends to verify that spark will jump a 1/2-3/4" gap consistently and that it has a bluish tint of color to it. 7. If spark output is weak or erratic, replace the coil and re-check for the setting of the service code. 8. Also inspect all plug wires ends for potential pin-hole leaks that could allow spark to arc to the cylinder heads in the plug well. Run a grounded screw driver up and down the plug wire boot as the wire is connected to a spark tester to determine if any of the wires are faulty. 9. If timing advance appears to be working properly and there are no electrical issues related to the alternator, coil or plug wires, either the PCM or the ICM will need to be substituted to determine if one of them is causing the condition. See diagram by Ford via Steve83 @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/833750_1
1996 is CCD H.
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
|
Dual for On-Board Welder Installation in a 90
Source: by flamedfordbronco (Frank H) at FSB
|
Engine Conversion Kits for Bronco & Ford Trucks (sales catalog w/pics & descriptions)
Source: by L&L landlproducts.com
|
Ford; Overview & Testing; 4 different types of alternators; Rear Terminal, External Regulator, External Fan Alternator Side Terminal, Internal Regulator, External Fan Alternator Leece-Neville 165 Ampere Alternator Integral Rear Mount Regulator, Internal Fan Alternator (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
Source: by Chilton via AutoZone
|
Fusible Link at Alternator to Battery Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
|
Fusible Link J Location in Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series; Link J (12 gauge, Gray from Battery to Alternator)
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Fusible Link, Bronco & Ford; there is a fuse link between the starter relay and alternator (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
Source: by Chilton via AutoZone
|
Fusible Link: A-Brown 18ga to Rear Window Defroster; W-Blue 20g to Fuel Pump Relay; N-Blue 20g to EEC Power Relay; F-Blue 20ga to Trailer; Y-Blue 20ga to N.C.; L-Brown 18ga to ?; M-Brown 18ga to ?;G-Blue 20g to Exterior Lamps, Trailer; P-Blue 20ga to ?; & J-Green 14ga to Alternator as shown in Wiring Diagram in an 89
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Identification
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
Location in Engine Bay Diagram in a 90
Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at SuperMotors.net
|
Location in Engine Bay Diagram in an 87-88 4.9L; #2
Source: by Ford via Chilton
|
Location in Parts Break-Out Diagram in 4.9, 5.0 & 5.8 w/ Nomenclature
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Loose or Weak Contact at Generator Harness Connector TSB 96-21-4 for 86-93 Bronco & F Series, etc.
Source: by Ford via mustangforums.com
|
Maxifuse pic in an 83 351W
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at SuperMotors.net
|
Mimimum Cable Size to Use (AWG) Table
Source: motorcityreman.com
|
On-Board Welder Conversion w/GM Alternator
Source: by Badass (Eric) at Carolina Broncos
|
Overview; "...An alternator receives mechanical energy from the crankshaft through the belt (FEAD) and converts it to electrical energy, which is used to supply the vehicle's demands and charge the battery. The case of the alternator must provide a solid ground to the voltage regulator & the stator, so its mounting points must be clean, and the engine block must be well-grounded to the battery (-) post. The voltage regulator detects the key on through the I (Indicator) terminal, and uses battery power from the A terminal (via the brushes, & the slip rings) to produce a magnetic field within the Rotor's Field windings. The strength of this field is determined by the voltage regulator, based on the voltage between the A terminal and the alternator's case, which must be grounded to the battery (-) post to provide an accurate reading. The regulator controls output voltage by varying the ground signal applied to the F brush. Externally grounding this brush forces the alternator to its maximum output at that RPM (typically near 18V). The pulley transfers mechanical energy from the belt to the Rotor's shaft (supported by 2 bearings), which causes the magnetic field to rotate through the Stator's 3 windings. This moving magnetic field induces an alternating current within the Stator windings, proportional to the strength of the field. The Stator's alternating current passes through the Rectifier which lowers the voltage slightly and converts the AC to rough DC. The output is smoothed primarily by the battery (which is why a battery MUST be connected when the engine is running), and also by a capacitor (condenser) within the rectifier. One of the Stator's windings is connected to the S terminal so the voltage regulator can monitor the alternator output. The fan pulls hot air out of the case, causing cooler air to flow into the rear. The rear case & stator can be rotated (clocked) to 3 positions relative to the front case to orient the connectors for ease of installation. Most failure modes result in the voltage regulator grounding the I terminal, which illuminates the ALT bulb in the dash. To maintain normal operation in the event of bulb failure (open I circuit), a 300 Ohm resistor must be wired in parallel with the bulb (typically a common 194)..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Parasitic Current Drain Test; "...you should be able to trace the "parasitic draw" on the battery in the normal way. Pull the (-) cable off & put an ammeter inline set to the 10A range (or higher if possible) to see how much current is being pulled out of the battery with the key OFF, the doors SHUT, & the hood light bulb REMOVED. Make sure absolutely NOTHING is turned on anywhere on the truck. If it registers 0 or below the meter's next range, switch it down a range until it shows some useful numbers. If it ends up being below 0.5A (500mA), then replace the battery. If it's above that, start by disconnecting all the alternator wires & see if the reading drops under 0.5A. Then move to the fuse block & pull them 1 at a time until there's a significant drop in the reading. That's the circuit that's draining the battery. Follow it to find the problem..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
|
PSOM & Odometer Not Working "..due to Bad diode in the alternator that put a rf signal into the speed sensor line. It turned out to be a bad diode in the alternator that put a rf signal into the speed sensor line. I unplugged the alternator electrical connector and it went away. I am a mechanic by trade and this was on a 2001 superduty that would die when it hit 1100rpm. I was doing my key on engine running selftest when the scanner could not complete it due to excessive vss. So i monitered my vss and when my target rpm was hit the pcm would have the speed limiter kick in and since there was no laod on the engine it would stall. Naturally I started unplugging stuff untill my interferance signal went away..."
Source: by Mr Bell & miesk5 at FSB
|
Pulley Ratio; "...Generally, the alternator should be 1:1 with the motor for circle track racing. For drag racing, the alternator should be overdriven by a ratio of 1.75:1 or more. This will allow charging on the return slip and in staging. For street use, we recommend 3:1..." read More
Source: motorcityreman.com
|
Rebuild, 3G
Source: by chebbykiller (Big Black, The Bronco) at FSB
|
Rebuild, 3G
Source: by chebbykiller (Big Black, The Bronco) at SuperMotors.net
|
Rebuild, 3G in an 87
Source: by broncoflorida at FSB
|
Rebuild, Regulator, Bearings & Brushes
Source: by shift1313 (Matt) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Regulator, Voltage, 130 amp, (3G) Replacement
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at fordfuelinjection.com
|
Repair Price Estimator, Bronco from 90-96 and other Fords; including labor & parts, shops in area, by Zip Code
Source: by RepairPal
|
Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, Short Solenoid Body Life, 4th Gear Starts in D/High Pressure may be caused by a malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Power Relay. The EEC Power Relay is controlled by 12 volts from the ignition switch and is responsible for supplying voltage to the computer and solenoid body. If the relay contacts stick open, the complaints are as follows: Gas engine applications won’t start, Diesel will start and run, but have 4th gear starts in D, 2nd gear in 2 and 1, and maximum line pressure. If the contacts are stuck closed, the complaints may be as follows: Both gas and diesel engine application: Scan tool won’t work, vehicle battery goes dead, short solenoid body life. Note: Watch for corroded relay terminals and connectors on 89-91 E-series vans. The relay is very close to the right side battery and prone to corrosion problems especially on diesel ambulances..." read more, Diagrams are gone
Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org
|
Symbols in Wiring Diagrams
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Troubleshooting Basic Charging System Problems, Ford Pick-ups and Broncos 76-86 (under license from Delmar Publishers, comb of Chilton/Nichols/Delmar & Haynes); some may be incorrect, as reported by Seabronc, thanks Seabronc! NEW SITE URL!!! MUST REGISTER TO VIEW; select year, make, model, engine size and go to appropriate section
Source: by Chilton via AutoZone
|
Voltage Drop Test, general
Source: by excelauto.com
|
Warning Light Overview in 92-96; "Check Engine, Charging System, Air Bag (if Equipped), Safety Belt, High Beam, LH/RH Turn Signals, Overdrive/Overdrive Off, 4x4 Low and High Range Indicators with Lever Operated Transfer Case, Anti-Theft, Engine Coolant Temperature, Battery Voltage, Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, Tachometer (if Equipped)..." read more
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Wiring Diagram for 84 Bronco & F-Series (partial); "...Similar to 80-91 Bronco & F-Series..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Wiring Diagram in 78 Bronco & 76-78 F Series
Source: by Blue79 at photobucket.com
|
Wiring Diagram in 87-89 Bronco & F series (Mitchell)
Source: by equivalent (Beetlejuice) at SuperMotors.net
|
Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
|
Wiring Diagram in a 78
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Wiring Diagram in a 79
Source: by Chilton
|
Wiring Diagram in a 96 5.0 and 5.8 (Scroll Down) from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
|
Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150
Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB
|
Wiring Diagram in an 83 351W (see #2)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Wiring Diagram in an 84
Source: by toddcomputer.com
|
Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net
|
Wiring Diagram in an 86 & Ford truck
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
|
Wiring Diagram, Haynes in a 78
Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net
|
Wiring Diagrams & pic in an 83 (see #3)
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
|
Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as Generator, because that is what Ford still describes as an alternator.
Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com
|
