Home Bronco TSB Summaries Recent Updates Gallery Submit A Link Unique Visitors: 367712	FORD BRONCO -> ALTERNATOR, BATTERY & CHARGING; 3G, dual... -> Battery & Isolator WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS - We now have over 26,000 LINKs! This is a Ford Bronco, Truck & Van Technical & Parts LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family & is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Co. in any manner. Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to F, E Series & Cars. UPDATE; all Links via web.archive may be down; Copy orig. URL & go to http://replay.waybackmachine.org/ to search for the new archived copy Select A Category: Battery Testing Procedure TSB 91-10-10 for 85-91 Bronco, Aerostar, Econoline, F-150-350 Series, Ranger; 85-90 Bronco II; 89-91 F Super Duty, F47, F-53, F-59; 91 Explorer, etc. No Crank, Low State Of Battery Charge TSB 91-10-8 for 85-91 Bronco, Bronco II, Econoline, F-150-350 Series, Ranger; 86-91 Aerostar; 88-91 F Super Duty, F47, F-53, F-59; 91 Explorer, etc. No Start, Low State of Battery Charge or Buzzing or Humming Noise from the Fuel Pump after the Engine has been Shut Off Caused by Sticking Fuel Pump Relay TSB 90-18-3 for 83-90 Bronco, Bronco II, Econoline, F-150, F-250, F-350, Ranger & Many Others Select A Link: "...Because many of the new alternators are capable of charging at rates in excess of 110 Amps, the battery should be fully charged before use to avoid overheating the alternator by trying to use it as a battery charger. Alternators are NOT battery chargers, they are battery maintainers as well as supplying current for vehicle amenities. Symptoms of this type of damage are a burnt stator..." Source: by thirskauto.net "...Optima is now owned by Johnson Controls (thats when the quality went down) - Then they moved production to the plant in Mexico and that is where they are currently being produced. Construction to my knowledge is still the same but I feel they have cut corners in the quality assurance end of things..." Source: by Weber at FSB Application Data (Broncos & all Makes); including BXT-65-850 Source: by fordinstallersupport.com Auxilliary Battery Location & info in 80-86 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Battery and Charging System, Service in a 96 5.0 and 5.8 from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual; With the engine running at 2000 rpm, check the generator output voltage. The voltage should be between 13.0 and 15.0 volts. Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Battery Cables, Rotating Electrical (Starters, Alternators, Window & Wiper Motors, etc.), Ignition Components, Wire & Cable, Windshield Washer Pumps, Wiring Harness Accessories, etc. Parts Catalog, Bronco & all Fords w/Ford Part Numbers, Illustrations & Cross References (54MB pdf file) Source: by fordinstallersupport.com Battery Drain; "...Disconnect the positive clamp on your battery but take care not to touch the body metal with the wrench when doing this. Now connect an small light between the + terminal and the clamp. Put the clamp on a rag so it can't touch the sheet metal. If any drain is present the light will glow. Or you can check the amount of drain with an small ammeter. An drain of 1-2 Watts can be tolerated. Next pull the fuse for the mechanic clock and the radio. Still any current flowing (light on)? Ok, so you really have a problem. Now start pulling the fuses in the fuse box one by one until the light goes off. This is the circuit in which the problem lies. Check your manual or the indications in the cover of the fuse box to see which systems are connected to that fuse. The next steps depend on the systems concerned. Try disconnecting each one of the parts connected in the circuit. Again it's the same - when the light goes out you've found the problem. Even better than a light bulb is an buzzer. Many people have one of those annoying little rascals lying around. Use it..." Source: by Alain H at landroverclub.net Battery Testing Procedure TSB 91-10-10 for 85-91 Bronco, Aerostar, Econoline, F-150-350 Series, Ranger; 85-90 Bronco II; 89-91 F Super Duty, F47, F-53, F-59; 91 Explorer, etc. Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com Battery to Load to PCM in PCM Connector Pin-Out Diagram with Circuit Functions in a 96 5.0 and 5.8 (Scroll Down) from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Box Fabrication in an 88 Source: by Busterbronco at FSB Box Fabrication pics in an 88 Source: by Busterbronco at SuperMotors.net Cable Replacement, Positive in a 96 5.8 Source: by JMac96 at FSB Cable Soldering Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at FSB Cable Soldering Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com Cable Upgrade in a 95 Source: by Late Model Man (Rick, Big Nasty, Beast, latemodelman) at FSB Cargo Area Mounted pics in a 90 Source: by bronco831 (Erinn G) at cardomain.com Charge Indicator Wiring Diagram in 87-89 & F Series Source: by miesk5 at broncolinks.com/gallery Charging System Description & Operation, Diagnosis & Testing, Removal & Installation, Disassembly & Assembly, & Adjustment Procedures; & Specifications in a 96 from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Charging System Light in a 96; "...This light, shown as a battery symbol on your cluster, indicates that your battery is not being charged and that you need to have the electrical system checked. & from Workshop Manual - The charge indicator lights if the voltage in the integral alternator drops below a preset level while the ignition switch lock cylinder is in RUN. The charge indicator light comes on every time the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or START. The light should go off when the engine starts and the alternator begins to charge..." Source: by Ford via Hiller Ford & miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Dead Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. If this happens measure the S.G. in each cell. If one cell has a lower S.G. than the rest by a significant amount, replace the battery - there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory..." Source: by Gordon via miesk5 at FSB Disconnect pic in an 83 351W Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at SuperMotors.net DTC 512 "...indicates the PCM has experienced a power interrupt in its Keep Alive Memory (KAM) circuit. If KAPWR is interrupted to the PCM, for example when installing a breakout box, or when battery is disconnected, DTC 512 may be stored in Continuous Memory. Key off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary. Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure voltage between Test Pin 1 and Test Pin 40 or 60 at the breakout box. While observing DVOM, grasp the EEC-IV harness and wiggle, shake or bend a small section while working from the PCM to the dash panel. Does DVOM indicate less than 10.5 volts? Make sure you have a good ground at G101 (Passenger side of engine compartment, near battery). If so I think I would go ahead and change the PCM as I do not know of any thing else out side the PCM to cause this...." Source: by subford (Bill K) at fte DTC 512 (M) Memory power (PCM pin 1) was interrupted; Was battery disconnected? Source: by thorssell.net DTCs & Possible Causes; P1130 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Fuel Trim at Limit, P0102 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Low Input, P0103 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit High Input, P0106 - Barometric (BARO) Pressure Sensor Circuit Performnce, P0107 - BARO Sensor Low Voltage Detected, P0108 - BARO Sensor High Voltage Detected, P0109 - BARO Sensor Circuit Intermittent, P0112 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Circuit Low Input, P0113 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Circuit High Input, P0117 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit Low Input, P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Circuit High Input, P0121 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Performance Problem, P0122 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Low Input, P0123 - Throttle Position (TP) Circuit High Input, P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control, P0127 - Intake Air Temperature Too High, P0131 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Out of Range Low Voltage (HO2S-11), P0133 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Slow Response (HO2S-11), P0135 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-11), P0136 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-12), P0141 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-125), P0151 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Out of Range Low Voltage (HO2S-21) See DTC P0131, P0153 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Slow Response (HO2S-21) See DTC P0133, P0155 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-21) See DTC P0135, P0156 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-22) See DTC P0136, P0161 - HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction (HO2S-22) See DTC P0135, P0171 - System to Lean (Bank 1) The Adaptive Fuel Strategy continuously monitors fuel delivery hardware. The test fails when the adaptive fuel tables reach a rich calibrated limit., P0172 - System to Rich (Bank 1), P0174 - System to Lean (Bank 2), P0175 - System to Rich (Bank 2), P0176 - Flexible Fuel (FF) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0180 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input (EFT), P0181 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance (EFT), P0182 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input (EFT), P0183 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input (EFT). P0186 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance (EFT) See DTC P0181. P0187 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Low Input (EFT). See DTC P0182. P0188 - Engine Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit High Input (EFT) See DTC P0183, P0190 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (FRP), P0191 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Performance (FRP), P0192 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input (FRP), P0193 - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input (FRP), P0201 through P0212 - Cylinder #1 through Cylinder #12 Injector Circuits, P0217 - Engine Coolant Over-Temperature Condition, P0230 - Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction, P0231 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low, P0232 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High, P0234 - Supercharger Overboost Condition, P0243 - Supercharger (Boost) Bypass Solenoid Circuit Malfunction, P0298 - Engine Oil Over Temperature Condition, P0300 - Random Misfire, P0301 through P0310 - Misfire Detection Monitor, P0320 - Ignition Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction, P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1), P0326 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/ Performance (Bank 1), P0330 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2), P0331 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/performance (Bank 2), P0340 - Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0350 - Ignition Coil (Undetermined) Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction, P0351 Through P0360 - Ignition Coil A through J Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction, P0401 - EGR Flow Insufficient Detected, P0402 - EGR Flow Excessive Detected, P0411 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system upstream flow See DTC P1411, P0412 - Secondary Air Injection System (AIR) circuit malfunction, P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1), P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2), P0442 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak), P0443 - EVAP Control System Canister Purge Valve Circuit Malfunction, P0451 - FTP Sensor Circuit Noisy, P0452 - FTP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage Detected, P0453 - FTP Sensor Circuit High Voltage Detected, P0455 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (No Purge Flow or Large Leak), P0456 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Very Small Leak), P0457 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Filler Cap Loose/Off), P0460 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Malfunction, P0501 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Range/ Performance, P0503 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Intermittent, P0503 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Intermittent, P0505 - Idle Air Control System Malfunction, P0552 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0553 - Power Steering Pressure (PSP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction, P0602 - Control Module Programming Error, P0603 - Powertrain Control Module KAM Test Error, P0605 - PCM Read Only Memory (ROM) error, P0703 - Brake Switch Circuit Input Malfunction, P0704 - Clutch Pedal Position Switch Malfunction, P0720 - Insufficient input from Output Shaft Speed sensor, P0721 - Noise interference on Output Shaft Speed sensor signal, P0722 - No signal from Output Shaft Speed sensor, P0723 - Output Shaft Speed sensor circuit intermittent failure, P0812 - Reverse Switch (RS) input circuit malfunction, P1000 - Monitor Testing Not Complete, P1001 - KOER Not Able To Complete, KOER Aborted, P1100 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Intermittent, P1101 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1109 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Sensor Intermittent, P1112 - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Intermittent, P1114 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit Low Input, P1115 - Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit High Input, P1116 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1117 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Intermittent, P1120 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Out of Range Low (RATCH too Low), P1121 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Inconsistent with MAF Sensor, P1124 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Out of Self-Test Range, P1125 - Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Intermittent, P1127 - Exhaust Not Warm Enough, Downstream Sensor Not Tested, P1128 - Upstream Oxygen Sensors Swapped from Bank to Bank (HO2S-11-21), P1129 - Downstream Oxygen Sensors Swapped from Bank to Bank (HO2S-12-22), P1130 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Fuel Trim at Limit, P1131 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean. READ MORE Source: by Steve at justanswer.com Dual Batteries & Isolator Installation in a 91 Source: by David B (dblue, One Ton 91, Centurion) at wt4x4.net Dual Batteries & Isolator pics in an 89 Source: by triplesix at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Disconnect Schematic Source: by Wells Dual Batteries Installation in a 90 Source: by Dan90FSB (broncoboy23, Dan) at UC4x4 Dual Batteries Installation in a 90 (SOLD) Source: by Patrick N at delta4x4club.com Dual Batteries Installation in a 92 Source: by Kuss (kusscave, Todd ) at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation in a 94 Source: by Damon H (Plug Ugly) at FSB Dual Batteries Installation in a 94 Source: by Damon H (Plug Ugly) at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation in a 95 Source: by UNDRH2O at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation in a 95 Source: by devlzluv at FSB Dual Batteries Installation in a 95 Source: by jam0o0 at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation in a 96 Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at FSB Dual Batteries Installation in an 85 Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at chrisb.users.SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation in an 85 Source: by Bronco85 (Phillip H, Big Red) at FSB Dual Batteries Installation Info & pics in a 79 Source: by axaviere (Truck) at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation pics in a 90 Source: by My90Bronco (James, Switch) at SuperMotors.net  Dual Batteries Installation pics in a 93 Source: by AccessoryMan at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation pics in a 96 Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation pics in a 96 Source: by Christopher R at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation pics in an 85 Source: by Chris B (Blue, bronco boy) at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries Installation, Rear Cargo Area in an 81 Source: by 81Bronk36 (Matt K, 1BadBronco) at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries pic in a 93 Source: by Hefty at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries pic in a 93 Source: by Hefty at FSB Dual Batteries pics & info in an 85 w/Redtops Source: by Bronco85 (Phillip H, Big Red) at SuperMotors.net Dual Batteries pics in an 88 Source: by danielzink (Dan Z) at pws.cablespeed Dual Batteries pics in an 88 Source: by danielzink (Dan Z) at danielzink.com Dual Batteries pics in an 88 Source: by danielzink (Dan Z) at SuperMotors.net EEC-IV System Has NO Control Over the Following Items; "...Fuel quantity and quality; Damaged or faulty ignition components; Internal Engine Condition - rings, valves, Timing belt, etc.; Starter & Battery circuit; Dual Hall sensor; TFI or DIS module; Distributor condition or function; Camshaft sensor; Crankshaft sensor; Ignition or DIS coil; Engine governor module..." Source: by Ford via arrc.epnet.com Ford Motorcraft® Battery Application Data, Bronco/Ford truck & all Makes w/Ford part numbers Source: by fordinstallersupport.com Fusible Link J Location in Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series; Link J (12 gauge, Gray from Battery to Alternator) Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Fusible Link: A-Brown 18ga to Rear Window Defroster; W-Blue 20g to Fuel Pump Relay; N-Blue 20g to EEC Power Relay; F-Blue 20ga to Trailer; Y-Blue 20ga to N.C.; L-Brown 18ga to ?; M-Brown 18ga to ?;G-Blue 20g to Exterior Lamps, Trailer; P-Blue 20ga to ?; & J-Green 14ga to Alternator as shown in Wiring Diagram in an 89 Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Hold Down Fabrication & Installation in an 81 Source: by Matt K (1BadBronco, 81Bronk36) at SuperMotors.net Kill Switch Wiring Diagrams; "...The "MAIN KILL" is best if you store the vehicle for long periods and want to keep the battery from draining, or to allow a trickle charger to work. The disadvantage is that all the memories (radio stations, clock) will be lost immediately. The "STARTER DISABLE" will allow the engine to continue running, but won't allow it to be started. This will preserve the clock & radio memories, and confuse most thieves since every other electrical device will work normally. It will appear that the starter is defective. "ANTI-THEFT" is even more confusing since the memory circuits will continue to function normally, but the ignition switch will appear to be defective..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Kill Switch; "...These are Hella battery switches with heavy-gauge battery wires, used on 03-up Land Rover Range Rovers & LR3s as transport cutoff switches, rated at 100A continuous; 1000A @12V for 10 sec. The battery terminals are unusual, but also high-quality. The wire with the post is about 17" and the other is about 28". The switch is on when the red key is inserted, pushed in, and turned to lock. The nosepiece of the switch is 1 1/4" long from the mounting face. The wires have heat-shrink wrapping at the switch terminals, but they can be removed easily, exposing posts with nuts. Hella spec page: (see URL in Steve's site); Wal-Mart is selling the CalTerm chinese knock-off of this switch for ~$10 now..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Manufacturers & Brand Names List Source: by Bill D at jgdarden.com Mimimum Cable Size to Use (AWG) Table Source: motorcityreman.com No Crank, Low State Of Battery Charge TSB 91-10-8 for 85-91 Bronco, Bronco II, Econoline, F-150-350 Series, Ranger; 86-91 Aerostar; 88-91 F Super Duty, F47, F-53, F-59; 91 Explorer, etc. Source: by Ford via performanceprobe.com Optima or AGM Battery Charging, General Source: by Batteries Are Us Optima; How To Recover Deeply-Discharged Optima Batteries Source: by OptimaJim at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Parasitic Current Drain Test; "...you should be able to trace the "parasitic draw" on the battery in the normal way. Pull the (-) cable off & put an ammeter inline set to the 10A range (or higher if possible) to see how much current is being pulled out of the battery with the key OFF, the doors SHUT, & the hood light bulb REMOVED. Make sure absolutely NOTHING is turned on anywhere on the truck. If it registers 0 or below the meter's next range, switch it down a range until it shows some useful numbers. If it ends up being below 0.5A (500mA), then replace the battery. If it's above that, start by disconnecting all the alternator wires & see if the reading drops under 0.5A. Then move to the fuse block & pull them 1 at a time until there's a significant drop in the reading. That's the circuit that's draining the battery. Follow it to find the problem..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB Parts Break-Out Diagram & Wiring Diagram in 92-96 Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Rear Cargo Area Mounted pics in a 90 Source: by Chris S (Swat, Carcass, Blown, CLYDE) at SuperMotors.net Relocation in an 83 351W Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at SuperMotors.net Review, Ford Motorcraft Silver BXT-65-850 Source: by Alex L at auto123.com Review, Ford Motorcraft Silver BXT-65-850 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB Review, Walmart Everstart Maxx 65N; 850 CCA, 1000 CA (manufactured by Johnson Controls) Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums Review, Walmart Everstart Maxx 65N; 850 CCA, 1000 CA (manufactured by Johnson Controls) must register to view Source: by miesk5 at bucknakedoffroad.com Review, Walmart Everstart Maxx 65N; 850 CCA, 1000 CA (manufactured by Johnson Controls); yo gang, I purchased this battery at WAL MART® (battery is not listed in their web site) It is mfg. by Johnson Controls & produces this EXACT SAME battery (CCA, etc.) for many auto makers and retailers under different product names such as: Motorcraft® silver BXT-65-850; ~$100.00 to $120.00 Plus $104.95 + tax, etc. at your local friendly Ford dealer Sears Die Hard Gold 33065 $105. + Auto Zone (Duralast Gold) Eveready Everstart Interstate Mega-Tron Plus $104.95 + tax, etc. Toyota (TrueStart) Mitsubishi (Diamond Car Care) Mazda Advance Auto (Autocraft Titanium) Costco (Kirkland Signature) Pep Boys (ProStart & Energizer) btw, Johnson also mfg. Optima brand - excellent price $61.00 w/ 7% sales tax and free installation (SEP 07). The warranty is 3yr free and 108 month pro-rata. CCA: 875 amps @ 0 degree F/ CA = 1090 amps @ 32° F; Reserve capacity: 165 mins; 44 lbs; 12 " L; 7.50 " W;7.50" H. UPDATE; had it replaced free @ Wal Mart in 2009... glove compartment door had opened slightly and light caused batty to drop below 12 v; took it & back to WM for a charge; but they replaced it w/new 3 yr warranty...& "...Optima is now owned by Johnson Controls (thats when the quality went down) - Then they moved production to the plant in Mexico and that is where they are currently being produced. Construction to my knowledge is still the same but I feel they have cut corners in the quality assurance end of things..." & "...When the Swedes owned optima, they paid us well and quality was foremost of all at all cost. JCI is the company that KILLED optima batteries, we always had 99.99 pure lead until JCI bought optima. The first thing they did was: fired all of the on staff scientists, then fired all of the PHD's, then fired the chemists, then dismantled the chemistry lab, then dismantled the prototype lab, then got rid of the pure lead and replaced it with lead with higher tin content, then JCI brought in their genius engineers and re formulated the lead acid paste, then replaced the AGM paper with lower grade paper, ex cetera, ex cetera. All of this was done within the first 2 years of their ownership! We had to fight like hell to prove that what we had when they purchased us was superior to what they had done. we finally convinced them to begin returning to some of the successful methods Gates had originally designed, but only after making them think that it was their idea. When the U.S. plant shut down, we were using pure lead, similar to original paper and similar paste formula, however, there were many, many other changes they had made in the manufacturing process that negatively affected the optima but produced higher volumes. In my opinion, the Enersys Odyssey is, by far, the very best battery on the market today. I am aware of some of the mfg practices being used specifically on the optima in mexico, and they are not conducive to quality!" by Weber at another Forum Source: by miesk5 at FSB Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, Short Solenoid Body Life, 4th Gear Starts in D/High Pressure may be caused by a malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay. The EEC relay is controlled by 12 volts from the ignition switch and is responsible for supplying voltage to the computer and solenoid body. If the relay contacts stick open, the complaints are as follows: Gas engine applications won’t start, Diesel will start and run, but have 4th gear starts in D, 2nd gear in 2 and 1, and maximum line pressure. If the contacts are stuck closed, the complaints may be as follows: Both gas and diesel engine application: Scan tool won’t work, vehicle battery goes dead, short solenoid body life. Note: Watch for corroded relay terminals and connectors on 89-91 E-series vans. The relay is very close to the right side battery and prone to corrosion problems especially on diesel ambulances..." read more, Diagrams are gone Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles dating back to 1994, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..." Source: by genco1.com Static & Load Test, general Source: by excelauto.com Symbols in Wiring Diagrams Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Terminal, Clamp-On Battery; "...These are the absolute crappiest terminals on the market, and they're becoming the most-popular. The wires are (supposed to be) clamped into a serrated channel in the lead, but if the wire is too thin, there's not enough clamping force. And if there's too much wire (like this), the straps bend & weaken, reducing the clamping force. Also, with all the pockets & threads, they collect acid, causing rapid corrosion. And like like all lead terminals, they stretch over time, even if they're not overtightened. But they're ALWAYS overtightened. And that paint that makes them so popular is another BIG problem: it's usually allowed to coat both the wire channel AND the hole for the post, causing a poor connection in 2 places when new & clean. The connections only get worse as it ages. These were installed less than a month ago, and they've already failed (on Christmas day) which is why I'm replacing them today with solder-on terminals..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Terminal, Solder-On Battery Procedure Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Terminals, Late-Model OE-style pic; "...The "lead-free" description is misleading. The other solder-on terminals are also lead-free; they're brass or copper with a tin or silver-solder coating. But this style may be a better fix if the damaged terminal is this style since it can merely be unbolted & replaced (no soldering) if the original ring terminals are undamaged. If these new ring terminals must be soldered on, the wires should be cleaned & tinned (coated with fresh solder) first. Then these rings can be crimped on & soldered to the tinned wires..." Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Tray Mod pics in a 90 Source: by Cam C (BlancoBronco, Project BLANCO) at SuperMotors.net Tray, Dual, Wrangler NW Power Products Installation article for Project Fiery Redhead, 92 F 150 Source: by Ken B at Four Wheeler Magazine fourwheeler.com Upgrade article for Project Fiery Redhead, 92 F 150 Source: by Ken B at Four Wheeler Magazine fourwheeler.com Voltage; "...a normal battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts, not just 12.0 V. (Remember, when measuring battery voltage, everything in the car should be off, or the battery should be disconnected. Voltage measurements are always "no load" measurements unless the battery is being tested for it's performance under load)..." Source: by Gordon via miesk5 at FSB Warning Light Overview in 92-96; "Check Engine, Charging System, Air Bag (if Equipped), Safety Belt, High Beam, LH/RH Turn Signals, Overdrive/Overdrive Off, 4x4 Low and High Range Indicators with Lever Operated Transfer Case, Anti-Theft, Engine Coolant Temperature, Battery Voltage, Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, Tachometer (if Equipped)..." read more Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in 92-95 Bronco & F Series Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in a 78 & 76-78 F Series Source: by Blue79 at photobucket.com Wiring Diagram in a 79 Source: by Chilton Wiring Diagram in a 96 5.0 and 5.8 (Scroll Down) from 1996 F-150, 250, 350 (4x4), and Bronco Vehicles Workshop Manual Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Wiring Diagram in an 81 F 150 Source: by Chilton via miesk5 at FSB Wiring Diagram in an 86 Source: by Xris at SuperMotors.net Wiring Diagram in an 86 & Ford truck Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com Wiring Diagram, Haynes in a 78 Source: by Mike S (Broncster, BRONKSTER) at SuperMotors.net Wiring Harness & Component Location Diagram, Ford Part Numbers, Depictions, etc. from Ford Workshop Manual in 96 Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab & Motorhome Chassis; use your Browser's SEARCH (or FIND) function to locate what you seek in each Diagram, such as battery, etc. Source: by Ford via thedieselstop.com Wiring Installation in an 85 Source: by Bronco85 (Phillip H, Big Red) at FSB Wiring Upgrade pics in a 95 Source: by Late Model Man (Rick, Big Nasty, Beast, latemodelman) at SuperMotors.net